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Saturday, November 5, 2016

I Love Olive! Vogue 1465 and Vogue 9210

This was called ivy green by Fabric Mart and I have called it moss here...hey, it's in the family. :)

I knew I wanted to make the pants form V9210 in this color with gold zippers. Thought about it for WEEKS! I had a 2.5 yard cut of fabric and decided I should be able to squeeze a top out as well. Enter V1465. In true FM fashion, my 2.5 yard purchase was much closer to 3 yards and I have a substantial remnant left.

I was surprised that the pants have an actual fly front and zipper - okay fine. Then I was downright astonished that the waistband is interfaced - WHAAAAA?! But really, they work. I LOVE THEM!

Now, you are free to live life as you choose - let's be clear I am not trying to direct anyone's choices - but for *ME* leggings are to be worn under longer tops/tunics/mini dresses/etc.

*I* do not wear leggings as pants. I would never wear these without a top covering my butt. Photos as taken is to allow me to show the fit.

Too much junk-in-the-trunk to just be wearing leggings all willy nilly!


I was REALLY on the fence when I saw the waistband treatment and wondered if these would be "Big4'd" and not fit like leggings. I went with my normal pant size, an 18. I did my normal pant adjustments after measuring rise; adding 1 1/4" to the back rise and removing 5/8" from the front. After sewing, I removed another 3/8" from the front tapering to nothing about halfway to the side.

The front and back are narrow pieces and then there is a side piece. I should have shortened this at the front tapering to nothing at the back. I have a bit of fabric I want to pinch out at the high hip.

I used fusible tricot but honestly can't recall if they suggested that for interfacing or not.

I used 5" brass zippers from Wawak ($.32 each! Love that place!) instead of the recommended 7" zippers. As I was about to insert the zippers I realized they were meant to be centered (meh) and I wanted them exposed. I could not wrap my head around creating the "window" on the seam line. I had to think of it like a welt and I was able to figure it out.

It is not a pocket, there is a piece behind it that's topstitched in place when the zipper is topstitched.

 
Outside


Inside

I did have several moments of feeling like ALL THIS WORK FOR LEGGINGS?! but they really were worth it. With a thicker ponte, I think they would be perfect.

(true color)

 
I like using sew-in snaps instead of buttons on the interior.
I don't like the button pressing against the skin.

 

I elected to skip all of the topstitching of the seams. My Vogue 1411 pants (I have 3 pair) have routinely popped stitching. I mean they are leggings meant to fit really closely and you're losing some of the stretch by topstitching, right? Eh.

I topstitched the facing in place but again, didn't go all the way around the waistband.

 
 
I thought about it after going inside that it could be helpful to see the length. They are the perfect length on me and I'm 5'5". Take note if you are taller or have long legs.
 
I initially took photos of V1465 with the pants and hated them together! Mostly because I couldn't find an appropriate cardigan/ jacket to pair with them (someone needs to do laundry, majorly).

I cut V1465 with a size 14 neck/shoulder and 16 for the rest. I need an FBA with small armhole tuck/dart. And a swayback adjustment _OR_ for it to fit a bit more loosely through the hip. Or both. IDK. Will experiment and see! I really like the lines of this top and will totally make it again.

One dislike; the collar is stretched the fit the neckline - fine. But when you fold it over, it is really tough to also stretch the facing part to fit the neckline. I feel like it should be curved/graded to account or that. I ended up slipstitching the facing down by hand, not trusting a machined stitch in the ditch as suggested.



 
The upper back fits  nicely so the SIZE is correct...I just need some fitting tweaks which I think a slash and spread of the center back piece will get me the room I need. But DEFINITELY need an FBA. Trying this on with cardigans and jackets gave me the idea for my next project, a knock-off of this ModCloth wrap cardigan. It's been cut out already! :)