Friday, June 23, 2017

Friday Miscellany: Burda 08/2017

I've stopped doing pattern release posts as I find Big4 are thoroughly discussed on PR and bloggers cover Indie patterns. T. Sedai covers Burda monthly.

But this August Burda.

THIS. AUGUST. BURDA! August-October are almost always my favorite months. April often has some real gems for me too. But this August issue tho... :-p

The first pattern I noticed and decided I NEEDED when the preview came out.
Perfect fall coat. Perfect!!
These two are the same, obviously, but I feel they read differently.
I just love both the top and tunic.
Burda August is synonymous with "Jacket"!
This is gorgeous.
This could be a nice fall coat too. Such pretty details.
I don't need another moto
(I've surprisingly discovered that I like them in theory but don't wear the ones I have)
It's just so pretty.
It has lots of details (tie neck, puff sleeve, cuff, gathers) but they don't overwhelm.
Give me a wrap dress anyday...and I love these tucks and the extra long belt.
This feels very vintage and perhaps a bit too dressed up for my day-to-day.
But is it not BEAUTIFUL!? Sleek. Stylish. Chic. I could go on!
I love Burda for these kinds of super interesting details.
I'd be afraid to sew it though because of their directions. Maybe it isn't as complicated as it looks...
I think this is a plus pattern. I'd love this in a sweaterknit...with booties??! Swoon.
A nice basic pant, but I am feeling the side zip lately.
I want this skirt. I want it in black. I want it with a metal zipper.
But I want this TOOOOOO! Lol!
See the entire preview here (Burda's Russian site is better!). Yes, there are actually other patterns! :) Only a couple though; it's mostly variations of what's here...there were a handful that were not as awe-inducing as these! 

Thursday, June 22, 2017

COLOR! McCalls 6996 and Vogue 1501

Not until I posted the Burda dress did I realize I've been sewing up a storm. I have so much free time on my hands now -- 4 days a week my 17 year old works until 9:30 -- that I've been barely sewing on my weekends and still cranking stuff out. That's how the denim dress came to be; it was supposed to be a slow project after I'd finished up these 2 items! Sigh. LOL!

The yellow crepe. It's BRIGHT. It's soft and spongey but still lightweight...and I was excited to sew up my new fave, V1501, using it.
I kind of love how it looks like culottes because of the front pleat.

Using an exposed zipper is the only change I made from the last time.


I got it all finished (well, mostly...taking these pics, I realized I didn't stitch the facing to the zipper tape!) and tried it on, loved it, spun around...ERRR. I could see clear through the back! The front pleats conceal the lack of opacity but in the back, my entire life was on display!

See how clearly you can see my blue top?

So in these photos I am wearing my RTW slip in "nude" (totally not *MY* nude...:sideeye:). But I don't want to have to wear a slip with a summer skirt :( I could line it I suppose...But still, same issue! Wah, wah, wah. Woe is me.

We shall see.

Because I am obviously hooked on color right now, I decided I needed a bright cardigan and know that M6996 is a winner for me. Dare I say, as a cardigan, I like it more than 6884! I think this pattern works amazingly well with jersey knits/lightweight sweater knits and 6884 with ponte/heavier knits, making it more jacket-like.

Yes, I am wearing a random assortment of colors...but I am often minding my business and then think, "It's Daylight! I should take photos of *that thing* now!"

I used view A, the shorter length, with peplum in back.

I got this 1.5 yard cut in a Fabric Mart bundle. I cut it very close on yardage. Whew. I've made this a few times before, and on this one I ended up sewing ease stitching on the collar seam line, leaving both ends open. After I gathered it, I went back and sewed the remainder of the seam in each direction. This is the cleanest this detail has ever turned out for me!

I also added an extra 1" to the bicep. No other changes though from previous versions (size Medium, narrow shoulder adjustment). The narrow hemming isn't the most fun thing ever, but I love the fit of this cardigan so much, I just suck it up and do it.

Lastly, I got both of these finished, went to hang them up, and noticed a stain on the back of the skirt and a stain on the front of the cardigan!


I treated both and put a load in the washer, including them. The stain on the cardigan came out (it came to me stained, like something (some sort of beverage??) spilled on it). The stain on the skirt did not come out but did fade a little. It is on the wrong side and is a faint purple. I can only see it when I'm looking at it up close.

Next time: 2 fails. Yes, I knew it was coming; I've been too ecstatic lately with my makes :-p

Also, at the time of writing this draft, I mentioned moving on to sewing a few pairs of pajama bottoms (PJ = Loungewear for me). But 1) There are new Simplicity patterns and I want like ev.ery.thing! in this pattern:

2) I have more tops I want to sew! :-P

Obviously the first two are more 'play': NL 6507 and S8385. The last two can be work or play! M6752 and S8337.
We shall see!

Sunday, June 18, 2017

Burda Challenge: 2/2017 #110

I'd planned on making the wide-legged pants from February but when I went to look through the mag again I was all OHEMGEE I forgot about this dress!

I was considering making the 6/2017 dress from denim but thought those side inserts on the skirt wouldn't work well with the weight of denim I had and then I thought A+B should = Awesome!

I've never made a dress from denim. I've always felt a little weird about a dress from denim. But so many awesome sewers make denim dresses that look awesome and well, I like awesome dresses so why not?! Whew!

I got this denim from SR Harris and there's a lot of it! I traced the pattern in a size 40 neckline/shoulders and 42 for the rest.

Pattern Description:

Burda's description is weird. It's a shift dress. Fitted through the bust. It's not as A-line as I thought it would be; it is straight from the waist down. And it is short!

Pattern Sizing:

Burda regular 34-42

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes! Although Meg from the Burda blog added grommets and so I wanted grommets! Or eyelets. Or whatever.

I went to JA and was uncertain of the choices. I almost went with the large ones, but I chose these because of the color. They are some new fangled kind that doesn't require interfacing or a second layer of fabric. But I knew I would be facing my dress because of that front V (which, I hate V's when they are cut on the fold. They always end up a little 'soft'). I decided to use the lighter weight fabric vs using the denim.

The second one on the left and the third one on the right are slightly out of line.

My facing doesn't sit perfectly flat at the bottom :/

I'd never done them before and I've been SO SCARED! But I did it! Hopefully everything won't have eyelets/grommets now. lol!

No smug satisfaction today! Just wonderment! :-D

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Burda? I didn't look at them. No real need for the version I made. Now, if you make this, PLEASE BEWARE. Those pattern pieces look *very* rectangular and you should mark either the seam attachment numbers that Burda includes or something.

And then I cut them out in order and pinned them right away so I wouldn't get confused.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

It's so cute! I love the tie front, the mini length, and of course, the pockets.

Fabric Used:

Denim and polka-dot shirting from stash scraps.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I used an exposed zipper. I know people don't like them. Good thing they don't have to wear this dress! Har, har...

I went with what I had in stash and its way longer than the pattern intends. On the tech drawing, the zipper ends right below that first horizontal seam.

I was going to scrap it and do an invisible; but IMO it turned out okay.

I didn't add hem allowances, as per usual with Burda. I used a 1 1/4" hem (5/8" double turned)

<3 I like neatness

I wasn't sure if I was going to like the finished dress and just went with packaged bias tape instead of making some from the polka-dot as I planned.

I could have used an FBA (I swear my b00bs are getting bigger. I haven't gained weight but I've gone from a 34E to 34F. BOOOOO!)

And I always do a 40 armhole but this one isn't fitting so well. I'm not sure if the armhole is too small or if it's the small bust that's making it wrinkle up. (see the 1st photo I posted)

This whole weekend was very overcast and the house was too dark for photos. 

Selfie Stick + Photobomb by Wilson the Cat

 So I went outside! This park is down the street from my house. I figured there would be something I could set my mini tripod up on. 

I don't want to learn photography...blergh...but I know the issue with using the phone is that, when lighting is sub-optimal, you can't focus. Most of the photos were so dark because the camera was focused on the sky.

You can see the bust pulling here, and the shorty-short length!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I do like it more than I expected. It's the kind of simple, easy-to-wear thing that's perfect for summer. I probably won't sew it again but I do recommend it if it caught your eye.

The sky was just beautiful <3

Wednesday, June 14, 2017

Finished: McCall's 7465

I didn't know I needed this pattern until I saw Margo's version! Do NOT be surprised if you see multiple iterations of this one over here!

This is so my style!

Pattern Description:

Pullover dress with close-fitting skirt has neckline, sleeve and skirt variations. A, B: Batwing sleeves and cowl neckline. C, D: Short dolman sleeves and scoop neckline. A, D: Ruching on one side of skirt.

Pattern Sizing:

6-14, 14-22. I used a 14/16, as per usual.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes! <3

Were the instructions easy to follow?

They were, although I sewed the simpler version. I didn't review the instructions for the ruched view.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love the fit, the cut-on sleeves, the blousing, the length (I used the longer skirt)...It's so simple but so much impact!

I disliked the neck binding. WAY too long and too wide. I did make mine narrower but would go down another 1/8".

Fabric Used:

Rayon jersey from FM (one of the precuts) in magenta

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I cut a 14 through the neck and shoulder and a 16 for the rest. Normally I would cut a 14 armhole, but this is a cut on sleeve and I have large biceps so I went with the 16. Also, I almost cut the 18 skirt but this is meant to be fitted and I didn't want to chance it being droopy.

*I figured this was a good place to add this...

A comment asked about the skirt pattern pieces. The skirt uses the same front and back piece. I almost traced off a 16 front and 18 back, what I would do normally for a fitted skirt. I JUST recalled that I DID add 1/2" to the side seam on the back piece, because my butt.

THANK YOU Chabe for your question!

The pattern piece is shaped though.

As mentioned, I narrowed the neck binding somewhat.

An all-in-one pic!

Double turned and topstitched hem: Even though it's fitted I didn't see the need for the stretch of a twin-needle finish. 

Neckline binding with my label :-D : Of the 3 labels I ordered from Dutch Label Shop, I am thinking this one is my favorite. FYI there are 5 days left to use the code sewcraftychemist for a 15% discount.

Elastic waist finish: I can't remember now what they instructed but with knits I alway serge first, then stitch at the seam allowance, leaving an opening. After threading the elastic through, I close up the opening and distribute the elastic.



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Oh yes and OH YES! :) If you didn't scoop this one up, you should. 

You can see my binding lifting away from my neck a bit. That's because it was SUPER DUPER EXTRA LONG!!!! Measure your neck opening and decide what length you need based on the stretch of your fabric.

This is what I normally do; I pretty much never use binding pieces in patterns. Blergh.

But I still love it though! And I love the color!!!

Also finished, because I didn't start on my Burda dress this weekend, is M6996 (I decided I needed a bright cardigan and I adore coral) and V1501 (because I went to trace the Burda dress and saw bright yellow fabric and squealed out loud and so, yeah! :-p

Up soon!

Friday, June 9, 2017

Friday Miscellany

First, I'm going to be one of those people...Feel free to skip ahead...this is a mini rant.
I hate how casual everything and everyone has become. I hate that the idea of "appropriate dress" for the locale and occasion seems non-existent. And no, it doesn't affect me or bother me directly. But still, call me Ms. Complaining McComplainerton.
Today I was asked again --seriously, I've been here 2 years. I don't dress casually!!-- why I was "so dressed up on a Friday". I have on my Burda 7136 chambray skirt and Lekala khaki skirt with a brown leather belt and sandals.

I do have on giant earrings :-D but no other jewelry.
I am not dressed up. I am not dressed up by any stretch of the imagination. 
I honestly do get annoyed by the insistence that a skirt or a dress is automatically 'dressed up' (OMG!!! People's reactions to dresses is insane). A dress is one thing. You put on a single thing and you're done getting dressed! That makes dresses SMART AND AMAZING! Hahahaha! And it's one of the reasons I own so many! I know plenty of ladies who dislike dresses on principal, I get that. But dresses aren't dressy by sheer fact of being a dress. :whine:
/rant off
So you may have noticed in some photos that I'm sewing in a different area. DD moved out and I quickly (immediately) moved my basics to her bedroom which is across the hall from my bedroom, a few feet from the kitchen...such a WIN! This has made me realize that in the future, a basement sewing room won't work for me. Right now, my patterns and fabrics are still in the basement (her room is small) and that's okay. But I love the lighting and proximity to the rest of the house.
I decided that I am buying the Brother 2340CV coverstitch machine for my birthday! I've wanted one for-forever and watched some videos on it and am so, so sold. LOL!
I had a nice sturdy desk in the basement that is way too big 1) to lug upstairs and 2) for that bedroom so I set up the folding card table again. Well, the old house must've had more solid floors or something because now it shakes like crazy when the serger is going. I took to PR to ask what people sew on and got lots of suggestions but many were out of the (almost non-existent) budget.

But I don't want to make any permanent arrangements in this room because 1) she's 19. She may be back. Although I moved out at 19 and never lived with my parents again. 2) I rent. The market is absolutely ridiculous if you're a first timer (e.g., don't have a house to sell as well). So while my place is stable, it isn't permanent. I don't want to buy a bunch of new stuff to tailor to this room. But I know exactly what I want when I DO have a permanent space! It'll be an IKEA fest. :)
For now I'm going to plan to paint the super sturdy but not attractive white pine desk with some chalk paint, it should be able to hold the serger and coverstitch just fine. And then I'll just need a table for the sewing machine. Tis the season of garage sales and closet clean outs!
I sewed a new dress, McCall's 7465, view C (blue). OhEmGee! LOVE. Can't wait to review this one!
This weekend I want to work on my Burda 6/2017 dress. And actually, I want to get caught up on my Burda Challenge! I've only sewn from March and April so far.
The weather is nice and I've been walking 3-4 days a week. I think I'll make the pants in capri length (will probably stop where the zippers are supposed to start). (01/2017)
I love these pants and have a lightweight linen/cotton blend that I think would be perfect for them! If you've seen this pattern 2/2017 #104, you've seen the weird butt flaps. I'm not doing those.
I really liked this top when it came out, despite Burda using poplin for it. There are tons on the Russian site and it's started to pop up on blogs. It's so cute!  (05/2017)
This is the dress I'll be starting this weekend. (06/2017)

I am kind of in love with this weird top from July. I will trace off the lower sleeve but I'd like to see how the top looks without it. This is one of those times where I'm trusting Burda. You all know I will sew some of their weirdness up in a minute! It's oversized -- and when they say oversized, they mean it -- but it looks fun so, why not? I think fabric choice will be key.
Yes, I know I had 10 dresses on dress-a-palooza. I've sewn 2 and another will be my birthday dress. Oh and the Sewaholic Saltspring! I want that so bad!! :) BUT, I had 4 tops on top-a-palooza and sewed all 4! Win!
Additionally, June plans were:
M6519 x2
Nettie x2
Burda 2/2013
Burda 6/2017
V1501 skirt
B5760 skirt
I may not make the lace skirt although it is pretty early in the month. I've made the 2 tops and am down to 1 Nettie because of fabric. So see? I'm kinda-sorta on track! :-p
It's supposed to be HOT here this weekend so I may get more sewing done than I originally thought!