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Friday, January 13, 2017

WIP: Burda 11/2007 Jacket

I hope to make this jacket next month; I cannot find the danged lining fabric and will have to pick some up. My budget is really strict this first few months of the year so I'll get some at the end of the month when my 'craft budget' is replenished.

I only had the German copy of this issue and someone kindly emailed me the English directions. These older Burdas are nice with their limited number of patterns! So much easier to trace!

11-2007-113

I traced a straight 42, no adjustments and sewed up the bodice.


Observations:
Shoulders too long (expected)
Too small in the waist (it happens!)
No swayback needed (YAY!)
A little excess fabric in the armhole (BUT the sleeve wasn't attached yet.)

Adjustments:
Removed 1/2" from the shoulder (at the seamline, tapering to nothing at the notches)
Took the shoulder up 1/2"


Observations:
What's THAT wrinkle?
Well, it doesn't really matter because the bicep is too tight. So it feels overall tight and uncomfortable because I can't move my arms.
I put the sleeve in terribly.


Adjustments:
Added 1" to the bicep
ONLY removed shoulder length, did not take the shoulder up

Observations:
YAY! It looks pretty good. 
Wait, where did the sleeve twist come from? It's not there in the un-adjusted sleeve


So was it my adjustment? It's a 2-piece sleeve and I only added to the upper piece. Do I need to adjust the lower piece?

Next:
I will add to the waist (It is VERY unlikely that I will wear the jacket buttoned - I work in a casual dress environment. But jackets SHOULD be able to close)
I will add 5/8" to the sleeve length
I'll try to figure out what went wrong with the twisted sleeve. I could have possibly sent it off grain when adjusting. 
The jacket length is perfect. 

12 comments:

  1. I love seeing your fitting process! I am working out some of my own as well. Your jacket looks like it is coming along!

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    1. Thanks Vanessa!!

      Good luck on your fitting!

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  2. Looking good. Not sure about the sleeve alteration as I never have to do a full bicep adjustment. Agree jackets should close - and sometimes you need to!

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    1. Thanks Sarah Liz!

      I went back to the piece and it looks like I did in fact skew it when adding. I trued up the grain line so it should work in the actual jacket.

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  3. I'm going to watch you make these adjustments as I seem to have the exact same fitting issue with Burda. Thanks for taking the time.

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  4. Do you cut a whole new piece when you make some of these adjustments, like for sleeves? I am trying to learn here! I usually have just enough fabric so not a chance I could re-cut anything. Learning patience from you, my friend!

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    1. Hi Chabe!

      This is a muslin. I normally have just enough fabric too so sometimes when I'm really concerned about fit, like this jacket, I'll muslin.

      So I didn't recut any pieces. But that's also why I did only one sleeve to test it. And then I was able to make adjustments on the other one. ALSO I'm pretty comfortable with the fit on Burda and didn't expect to have to make a lot of changes.

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    2. Thanks! You fabric looks nice enough to be the real deal :) I must learn to slow down and make muslins!

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    3. Thanks!!

      It was fabric I bought for garments (ordered 4 yards). But after washing and drying it's SUPER scratchy. So I've used it twice so far for muslins.

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  5. It's ģreat watching your fitting process. I want to adding the selfie-picture taking to my process. Happy Sewing.

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    Replies
    1. It can be helpful for others but for me too! Especially for things I know I intend to sew again!

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Your comments are appreciated! I will always respond to questions and try to respond to each and every comment!