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Sunday, March 19, 2017

Burda Challenge March: 3/2017 #111

As February ended, I realized the wardrobe contest wasn't going to happen and started planning other sewing for March. I passively added this dress and then was all...'heyyyyy. I may need to do that ASAP!" :)

I hadn't touched the machines in a minute and decided to start something easy before tackling another pair of jeans.



This is the petite pattern for March and Burda petite patterns fit me so well! The *only* thing I have to adjust and end up forgetting is the position of the bust darts. On the straight pattern it's okay, on the petite patterns it comes up a bit high. I have to remember that! I could have also added  a small wedge to the back skirt to navigate the butt.


I used a size 40 at the neckline/arms, 42 for the bust, waist and front skirt and graded out to a 44 on the back skirt. A combo 14/16/18 (or 40/42/44 with Burda) is normal for me. The fabric is a nylon/rayon/lycra ponte from Fabric Mart (purchased about 6 months ago).

This sheath is quite fitted and the skirt is pegged nicely. With straight sized Burda I don't usually add hem allowances. With this one I added 5/8" and sewed a 3/4" hem. I also raised the armhole a bit (~3/8") to account for making it sleeveless).



The facings fit nicely. I tacked them at the CF seam and the armholes. I decided to do binding on the armholes. I cut a strip 1" wide, stitched, graded the seam, turned in and topstitched with a twin needle.



The hem is topstitched as well:


I'm liking the narrower twin needle lately. I almost never get any tunneling.


I used an invisible zipper and then when I tried it on to decide on the hem, I put it on over my head. But it was a little tough so I am definitely pro zipper in this one. Especially with the close fit.


I was soooo close to perfection here. That doggone right bodice dart. You can see it came up just a bit short and therefore doesn't line up perfectly.


So. The twist front. 

This pattern was the sewing lesson of the month - the one that is in the paper part of the instructions, not the glossy part of the mag. The photos included with this aren't that helpful, IMO. But again, I find twist fronts always a bit confusing. 

It took a minute. And in the end I had a 'Oh-What-The-Hell-Ever' moment.

Outside:

Inside:



Like, I had to show my kids it was so bad. LOL!!!! I'm sure someone else will make this pattern and will fully understand what was supposed to be done - and share it with the rest of us!!! I made it look right on the outside and worried not what the interior looked like. 

I ADORE the neckline on this! It's slightly wide but not too much so, and slightly scooped. Just perfection. 

I could see this being made again for sure. Maybe even with sleeves and a properly sewn twist! :-p