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Wednesday, September 20, 2017

PR Sewing Bee: McCall's 7194


I've made this pattern before; both the cool pointed hem and the regular, straight hem. That was part of my decision making on using this pattern for the contest. Also, it's a knit. I knew I needed a knit!

The contest started Wednesday. I had plans Thursday and Friday I was leaving town for the weekend. So I needed the base pattern to be a quick sew.

For the sleeves, I had an idea based on a top that my daughter purchased recently. But I also knew I didn't have time to order a bunch of grommets and didn't want to pay a premium for them from JA. Speaking of...the grosgrain I used I got from SR Harris for $0.30/yd. But it was 1/2" wide and didn't work well with the 3/4" D-rings. So I went to JA anyway (!) and got 1" D-rings and 1" twill tape. Which I paid $1.99/yd for!!!!! Arrrghhhhhh! Oh, yes, I totally intend to only sew from stash for awhile, but none of the fabric cuts I had would work. Either not enough fabric, too thick for this pattern, fabric that is specifically slated for something else. So my trip to SR Harris also netted me this awesome sweatshirt fabric for $7.50/yd and a 1/4 yd of the lace, which was $10/yd.

Notions: 1" twill tape, 1/2" grosgrain ribbon, D-rings, Faux leather, Elastic!!


Anyway, my inspiration...It was an upper and lower sleeve with grommets and lacing. I really liked it and it was a cute, casual top. So I started thinking of ways to incorporate a lower and upper sleeve. This is what I really wanted to do:

But decided it would really be more appropriate in a lightweight woven.

Then I saw this sweatshirt and I've seen others like it, and decided that I would do something along these lines.

In a rush to get a sleeve done before my trip (so I could be confident I would finish in time), I messed up and made the upper sleeve have a casing - I intended the lower sleeve to essentially, have a drawstring. Oops!

The sleeve was constructed by overlaying the lace on the knit and cutting both at the same time, at elbow length. I then cut out the lace motif using applique scissors, and stitched the lace in place.

I then topstitched the faux leather casing on top, very close to the seam line, and ran a LONG length of the grosgrain through the casing.

For the lower sleeve, I added 3" to the length, and slashed and spread to create a bell shape. I redrew this onto tracing paper and then adding a seam down the center to create the slit. The top 2" or so are stitched and the opening was hemmed with a double turned hem.


I then stitched the faux leather strip - which was intended to be a casing!! - to the sleeve, attaching the D-ring and twill tape as well.


Once I realized, DUH! the opening is huge and floppy without the drawstring, I stitched in elastic 1/2 the length of the opening to draw it in. It turned out really cute! whew!

For the body, I added 3" to the length and added side slits. Existing adjustments to this pattern include a 1.5" bicep adjustment.


Did you spot my mistake? No??
 
On the right sleeve, the elbow tie is not in line with the slit opening. I realized WAY after the fact, like hours later, that I must have reversed something when cutting so the opening is rotated forward. Oy!
I did not want to take this entire outfit off! I wanted to snuggle in it!!!

Ties un-tied...


We'll see if I make it to round 3! :-p

I also finished my S2061 pants from the grey ponte and will be sewing my September Burda (with the teal silk!!) next. Then I have to sew my daughter's M7627. And then BAM! It'll be October! :-O