Sunday, June 17, 2018

McCall's 7745: A Close Call



This pattern almost got the best of me. You've probably seen a whole bunch of versions of this one and they look pretty good too! The bodice on this pattern stinks.

I'm sure it probably works for someone. But eesh.

It has cup sizing and my 'normal' Big4 size is a 14 with FBA. I chose a 14 C-cup and graded the waist to a 16 and I used a size 16 skirt. I lowered the bust dart an inch and was ready to go!

Grrr.

The bodice was HUGE. I took it in through the front raglans, I took it in through the side seams - twice - leaving the waist size in tact. I didn't want to line it because this challis is sort of heavy. I drafted a facing and then I accidentally sewed the front facings reversed. And sewed it to the bodice. And trimmed and graded it. And understitched it. And then I had to unpick it all. So then I decided to use bias tape and should have just made some. I have no issue making bias tape! And I used store bought and I didn't have enough black so I used red because it should be concealed, right? NO! Not in the giant bodice of giant-ness! Wahhhhhh. I'm not going to lie and say I'm going to redo it. LOL! And I don't think the fabric could take being picked out again.

The fabric I LOVE. I bought this quite awhile ago from Fabric Mart. When I find florals on a dark background I have to have it. I picked up 3.5 yards and there was a Burda I was going to use at first but I fell in love with the skirt on this pattern. Without the drafting weirdness, it's already a so-so for me; true wrap (I just said I don't like them!) and it's a raglan. But the skirt! And the fabric!! So I whined and grumbled and whined and grumbled and kept going. I am glad I finished it but may plans of maybe sewing view A? ehhhh. I'll likely use the skirt again though.

I've seen that "wing" on the back sleeve of most versions

This view also shows an issue I have with the neck ruffle. It's super cute in front but around the shoulder and back it looks like clown suit :(  I LOVE THE SKIRT!!!!

I bought another cut of fabric to make the skirt and then the thought of hemming and gathering that ruffle made me think twice. I have two rolled hem feet; one I bought when I bought a collection of feet for my other Singer and one that came with the Quantum Stylist. WORLDS different. I have avoided doing rolled hems because it was always awful. 

The left is the 'good' one and the right is the sucky one.

I did the neckline ruffle with the bad one and it was SO frustrating. It did not go well at all and I don't know if it'll hold.


Lots of areas where it didn't roll under

I switched to the other foot and WOW!!!  The entire (ENTIRE!) length of the skirt ruffle is perfection. Woohoo!! 


The skirt ruffle is 6 pieces. I sewed them all together and hemmed, and to gather I sewed gathering stitches on two sections at a time - 3 total 'groups' to gather.

It's so ruffly! :-D and you can see my red bias tape :-(
But you can see my new shoes! :-D 

The lower back fit without a swayback adjustment
But again with the sleeve wings and if you can't tell, the back neckline sits WAY away from my neck

As mentioned, I lowered the bust dart and it's still super high. And even with taking in the side seams of the bodice, it's weirdly baggy in areas. 


But it's SO pretty! LOL!!!!!

As it goes with sewing...that black & white Burda wrap dress was perfectly fine, fit well, I loved the fabric but just didn't like wearing the dress. This dress gave me FITS! But I am smitten. 

I spent a lot of time on my hair today and then went outside in what must have been 1,000% humidity and now it's completely flat. Booooo! 


34 comments:

  1. Love this dress and the shoes. Maybe a dart in the top of the sleeve may help with that gaping. I love the ruffles... I have two patterns that I'll mash together to make a similar dress. I have a beautiful rayon that I bought with a voucher my son gave me. Alas too cold (relatively speaking... it's 20 degrees celsius today) to wear a pretty dress.

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    1. Thank you! I hope you get your pretty dress and slightly warmer weather(!) soon!!

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  2. I love your dress it's comforting to know it's not only me who struggles with dressmaking :) but I feel you should be proud as your dress and hair are super cute xx

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    1. Thank you Izzy! We all have those moments/projects that make us crazy!

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  3. How cute are you?!! Love the look (dress, hair, shoes) and feel your pain. Nothing worse than a poorly drafted pattern especially in a style that needs fitting in all the right places.

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    1. Thank you!!! :-D

      Yes, it is always so odd how some patterns just go wrong, wrong, wrong.

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  4. You took an obviously inferior pattern and turned it into a really cute dress that really suits you! THAT is success -- love the shoes with it, too! Great job!

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  5. it is really cute and a great look on you. Yes I agree the bodice has some strange problems. I actually think they stem from the shape of the shoulder seam as that shoulder seam is also the cap sleeve, and it doesn't match most people's shoulder shape. At least on mine it didn't. so I throws the whole bodice out of whack on the body. but ya, woven wraps - they have to fit perfectly. But super cute as I said :)

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    1. Thank you Beth! Hopefully you'll blog about this one as you have far more knowledge on the drafting aspect.

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  6. it really turned out lovely, despite all the angst!

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  7. From the picture it still looks cute. The floral hides a lot. I share your pain though - reading your fitting nightmare reminded me why I gave up sewing for myself. When I was younger and smaller I could easily fit any pattern to myself but as I've aged and my body has changed and shifted it has been a nightmare to fit myself. I even struggle to buy clothes that look good on me and they often need tweaking.

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    1. Thank you! Oh, I really like it and it works, NOW. But it took a lot. I don't normally have this many issues fitting patterns, especially by McCall's and Burda.

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  8. I can understand why you would like this fabric! I normally stay away from wrap dresses and glad I haven't the desire to sew one now as I would have gone for this pattern also. Glad you posted about the sizing. No matter all the issues, your dress looks good on you!

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    1. Thank you Linda! I am pretty sure the fabric "kept me in the game"!

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  9. I hate these battles with the patterns! But I like how yours turned out. Only you would notice those fit issues, so enjoy it. Consider using a black Sharpie to color that red bias tape. I use Sharpies all the time to hide little booboos. Every now and then you'll need to touch it up because it fades slightly in the wash. Test it first, of course!

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  10. Your dress is beautiful and your rolled hems gorgeous!

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    1. Thanks Faye! I practically squealed at that rolled hem when I was finished!

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  11. well hello! That dress is gorgeous on you and I'm not even a big floral person. Awesome job!

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  12. Well you learned a few things and you love the dress - so there is that!

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  13. Thank you for sharing so open and honestly! It’s easy to think it’s just me and I suck and I should give it up... but there are silver linings and successes too. Your posts are always a must read for me. Thank you!

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    1. I'm glad you're here and hopefully you know that the pattern can be the problem too! Honestly I usually blame the pattern unless I can point to something I did or didn't do :-p

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  14. I had to hunt this post down, because I missed it in my reading list somehow. I think that the fabric hides a lot of the issues you don't like, and hopefully others will be none the wiser. You look great! I hate when I have lots of fitting to do to make a pattern work, but you did a great job!

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  15. You persevered! I really like this style, not sure I want to mess with the bodice. This looks great on you and I think I’ll try the skirt option!

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    1. I’m not a ruffles girl but these are soft enough that they are girly without being too much!

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  16. You'd never know from the way it turned out. It really looks great on you.

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  17. Oh no! I'm glad you could save it. I made this dress recently and my problem is not enough overlap on the wrap. It is quite scandalous when I walk - I employ a safety pin in the skirt to avoid a wardrobe malfunction.

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  18. So glad you could redeem it, it sounds like the drafting is a super disaster! At least you can do another view! Great work though!

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