Sunday, November 25, 2018

Some New Tops!

The next few posts will be the same except for the garment! LOL! I had a marathon photo-taking session today. And Wilson the cat photobombed them all!

I am combining these as 1) I've made them before (though it was awhile ago and I'm not sure they were even blogged and 2) I have a serious backlog.

First up was Vogue 8597. I made this before in an ITY but t was a little too polyester-y. I tried wearing it a couple times but ultimately tossed it. When I pulled this fabric out (scored during my trip to Fabric Mart) I decided it wasn't right for the Simplicity "Toaster" sweater, but that it would be perfect for some drapey top pattern.

I had previously sewn this with a 14 neckline/shoulder and 16 for the rest. This time, I used a straight 14 with my cheater FBA and I sewed the raglans at 1/2".
You recognize that smug grin that says, "OMG I LOVE THIS!" :)
and: my butt looks super awesome!!!

I REALLY LIKE IT! I've worn this a couple times since I finished it. I love the fit, the color, the cowl/collar...I do not like my crappy hems. This fabric cut, sewed and serged so well...but hemming it was a chore. I tend not to get too bogged down with that sort of thing though because, while it really bothers me initially, I seriously NEVER notice it when I wear the garment.

The outtakes...1) because IDK what is happening with that stance/expression on the right! and 2) I am always holding my feet some way other than just flat on the floor. LOL! 
Every pic is something different.

Next up is a long-awaited version 2 of McCall's 6796. I believe this fabric came from my trip to Kokoon (a local fashion designer who opened up her fabric stash to us!). I was excited about the color and the ribbing but it wrinkles like crazy!!!  

I cut a size 14 with a 1/2" FBA (no dart). I really like the overall fit through the shoulder and bust. I will say, I was laying around today and had a "OMG I need to get pics taken!" (day 5 of my time off so yeah...waited until the last minute). And I have on my casual-around-the-house-bra. And then, while taking the pics I "found" my bras! Hahahaha!!!


They were on this drying rack that is sitting on the box that my (pretty) light fixture is in. I have had some issues with the management here and have only been here since the end of June. I didn't want to ask yet if I could swap out the light. Maybe next year :-p

When I finished it, I realized I needed to take it in a bit. It was very boxy and I didn't remember the first one fitting that way...but also that was 2013/2014 so...I took it in about 1/2" through the waist tapering to nothing at the underarm and hem (I had coverstitched the hem and wasn't going to take it out).
Originally I was going to make it sleeveless because the fabric is pretty translucent and I figured it'd be a layering piece. But the sleeves fit slim enough that it should still be okay.

I like it better tucked in and when I styled it, I really liked it! 

Lastly (whew!), *I* refashioned something!! :gasp:

I've made quite a few versions of M6612 and had this one in the donate pile. And then I saw someone with a burnt orange top and was like, I need a top that color!!! And there it was! Once I shortened it, I loved it again! The side seams flare out just a tad but I can live with that.

My feet! LOL!!!!!!

Still left to review:
Butterick 6464
Simplicity 8529
Another(!) reworked M6612 (just a tad)

WIP:
Butterick 6378

I'm thinking I'm going to move on to my two cream/off white items after I finish this Butterick blouse.  I have a very busy work schedule for the next few weeks so we'll see how it goes! 



Wednesday, November 21, 2018

Style Arc Mindi Skirt...Terrible Photos and All...

I don't know what the heck is going to happen this winter with pics. I'm thinking about buying one of those clip-on ring lights. We'll see. I have a few finished items that are unblogged. I'm off work until Monday so hopefully I can get all the photos done and get the posts up over time. Bleh!!

I have had this pattern since 2015. I planned to make it immediately but had a heck of a time assembling a different pattern PDF that I bought in the same order and had temporarily given up on Style Arc.  

But I had the zippers! And I have no clue what fabric I initially planned to use but I decided this black cotton twill would be perfect. 

I got this from Mood this year with a plan to make overalls. I later decided this skirt and a pair of slim pants (at some point) from the yardage.


I cut a size 14 after taking flat pattern measurements and sewed the back princess seams at 1/2". The waistband is one piece so I basted once the front and back were assembled but I hate having to do that because it's hard to know where the skirt is supposed to sit without the waistband attached! And the waistband is slightly too loose. Wah.


Like a lot of people, I was annoyed with their illustration of an exposed zipper. It is not an exposed zipper. The way they have you construct it, it's like a centered zip. 

Like a lot of people :), I combined the upper and lower pocket into one pattern piece and created a window to sew the zipper in. I much prefer this way.


I washed this fabric before sewing and I used the good interfacing...but I decided I wanted to wear it on Halloween (yes, it's been done that long - I've worn it a couple times!) and rushed to topstitch the waistband. And it got twisted a bit (I didn't switch to my walking foot because I did this in like, 10 minutes before work that day!!).



Oh. Em. Gee.
I usually use doubled thread for topstitching and have read where many use a triple stitch. I did that here. I will never do that again. LOL!!! With all the seams I got super bored and was whining the entire time.

I do plan to topstitch the zipper - just didn't get around to it!

I ordered zippers from ZipIt on Easy. I've used them several times when I've wanted more interesting zips (NAYY). I had everything cut out and ready to sew when I realized that zipper was quite a bit shorter. The pattern calls for a 19" zipper and mine was 18".  Which was fine because I preferred the shorter length.

At that point though, I had no choice but to shorten it at the hem - I think it's fine. WHEW.

I like it but am confused by the slight A-line. I thought it was a straight skirt but it flares just a bit. I don't dislike it, it was just a bit different from what I was expecting.

I made another black skirt which will be photographed and reviewed soon! Butterick 6464 in Telio Jockey <3 ponte.

I made a lightweight sweater from Vogue 8597 that I a.d.o.r.e.

And I just finished up a lightweight mock neck from McCall's 6796.

That makes me 5 items into my plan! (6 technically because I found a plaid blazer that I will sub for the one I considered sewing). Next up is the Simplicity version of the Toaster Sweater and then a pair of pants from Burda 10/2014.


THANK YOU everyone for your comments on the last post! As usual, I try to respond but things got busy. 

If you're celebrating - have a wonderful Thanksgiving holiday! If not, enjoy the time off :) 

Thursday, November 15, 2018

Finished: Vogue 1595

As per usual :) I was drawn to this Badgley Mischka RIGHT AWAY. I love the Dolman sleeve, slightly pegged skirt and wide neckline. 

 I snatched it up in a BMV sale and when I went to cut it out, realized I had the size 6-14 envelope.

Ruh-Roh.

I hemmed and hawed over grading it up or just buying another copy. I decided that I am almost 6 years into my sewing journey and DARN IT! I can learn to grade up a pattern!!!!

So I did a bunch of research and finally went for it. Now, my "normal" Big4 sizing is 14 neckline/shoulder with a 1" FBA which gives me the "size 16 waist" that I need and I usually cut an 18 for my hips. With skirts I've pretty consistently used a 16 front and 18 back. So I did an FBA, slightly graded the skirt a bit more (I gained room with the adjustment as I went right to the hem) and I graded up the back skirt and the waist on the upper back.

I was so proud! 

Once I got the front and back assembled I basted the side seams. I didn't like it. I was so disappointed. And then it dawned on me...it was too big. Seriously. Did it not occur to me that the fact that almost everything I pulled out of my storage bins is too big and therefore I need to adjust!?! It did not!!!! I'm not sure how much I removed because it was adjust, try on...adjust, try on....

Doh.

  
My hem is topstitched because this sweater knit hides it.  Speaking of...I got this from Fabric Mart right after the pattern was released and ordered black tricot to go with as lining.

I hate lining knit dresses. I mean, I like when they're lined but *I* don't like fussing around with tricot. If you were following along on IG (or read my last post), then you know that I sewed the sleeve to the waist of the skirt on the lining. SO annoying but I unpicked it and then...I did it again. But only on one side. I'm pretty sure I almost tossed this dress in the corner at that point.

The zipper is necessary because as you can see, it's pretty fitted. I tacked the lining at the shoulder seams because it kept rolling out and that did the trick. I don't know why I followed the instructions on attaching the lining at the cuff. They have you sew the cuff to the fashion fabric then hand sew the lining to the cuff. I totally would just serge the band to the dress/lining at the same time.

I DID hand sew the lining and dress together at the slit.
 
Because I am me, I bought just enough fabric. Did I think about pattern matching? nope. 

But I did okay without trying to match! (but, of course...because when you TRY, something funky happens! LOL!)

It's such a toasty dress and I'm excited to have it for winter even if it made me mad/sad a whole bunch of times.


It is that time again. Sigh. I will either have crappy indoor pictures or...sort of crappy indoor pictures. And this place somehow manages to get less light than the last place!

Thursday, November 8, 2018

Burda 11/2018 and Randomness


I don't like to get too far behind on blogging items. I routinely use my finished projects to make decisions on other projects. e.g., I may see where a particular dress/skirt hit me to decide on length before cutting. Or where a neckline fell, etc. When I get too far behind, it becomes difficult to remember details! So all I have is a mirror selfie. #sorrynotsorry
For the first time in forever, I haven't been too moved by the fall Burda mags. They've been fine but not great, IMO. When I saw this top though, I decided I HAD TO HAVE IT! It's a cute fitted top and I have always loved boatneck (bateau) tops on me! It took forever for my Burda to come this month and when it did, I was ready! :)
I cut a size 40 neckline and 42 for the rest and couldn't work out how to do the FBA -- well, what to do with the dart on the other side. Honestly, I could have left it because this fabric doesn't show the diagonal seamline at all and a dart would've been hidden. 

But if you didn't want a dart then what? Well, perusing the Russian Burda site (translated!), someone said something about an adjustment in the seam line. Ah-ha! On the right side the dart would be rotated into the gathers and on the left you could leave the dart or rotate it into that seam line! 

So I will do a small FBA next time. This time I did a small, cheater FBA. I sewed the diagonal seam at 5/8" at either end and a scant 3/8" through the center. I sewed the side seams at 3/8" through the bust -- but not the underarm or the waist. This meant to be fitted and too loose = saggy gathers.

  
Per my usual, I did not add hem allowance. I did add hem allowance to the sleeves and I like where they hit. I ~love~ the neckline.

 

I traced, cut and sewed this top in an evening. I was TOO excited! I was ready to make one in olive but then decided to stay on track and sew my black V1595 dress next. 

 
The pattern recommends ponte or similar - use ponte. I used a sweater knit with a loose-ish weave and wahhhhhhhh. I had to take it in so much. I was really on the fence before realizing the issue was that it was just too big on me. And finally got back around to it Monday to work on the lining.

Got the pieces all cut out (in a tricot), sewed darts and what not...and then:


Sighhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

Who wants to unpick black stitches from black tricot?!?! THEN, I woke up Tuesday with a migraine (unrelated to the dress, lol!). I ate stupid, stupid, MSG-laden Doritos on Monday with dinner (maybe it WAS the dress' fault?!). The migraine finally broke Wednesday night. Blergh.

In other news...

I fully intended to do BPSewvember! I almost always do! But I fell behind a couple of days, caught up, then fell behind again and said, forget it. Wah.

One thing that came up on others' posts (especially the 'philosophy' prompt), was pertaining to sustainability in sewing. And I think to myself, hey, GO FOR IT! But there also seems to be A LOT of judgment around it. :(
 
It seems difficult for people to comprehend that different people lead different lifestyles and therefore have different clothing needs. Be that garment types (e.g., I don't need party dresses and someone else will not need the half-dozen lined straight skirts I have in my wardrobe) or wardrobe size. 

(I find the, "Where does she even wear all these clothes to?" type comments the most bewildering.)

And perhaps I'm easily annoyed (entirely possible...FINE, I'm easily annoyed!!), but I nearly roll my eyes out the socket when people talk about how "we're ALL influenced by social media!" Uhmm, speak for yourself? I can say, admire someone's Blackwood cardigan while knowing I will never buy that pattern because I'd never buy or wear a cardigan with that silhouette. I totally like the pattern and most of the finished versions!! But seeing it a bunch doesn't make me feel like I need to make it. I was seriously ready to uninstall IG after seeing 87,000 versions of M7833! :-p


So what about you? Is sustainability a focus with your sewing? If so, what does that mean to you?
Is your sewing heavily influenced by social media?
Do you think I'm just a cranky old lady? :-p