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Sunday, October 27, 2019

Burda Magazine 04/2019 #113

I think this April issue is pretty freaking awesome and this skirt is a STANDOUT! It's an A-line but has such fantastic details that totally elevate it.

When two of my sewing faves sewed it, I knew I was IN. Beth's version and YSG's were both done in denim. And, I wanted a denim one! But I'd bought this bright kelly green cotton twill for a skirt and knew this pattern's details + this fabric would = LOVE!

Now, this skirt has a saga. All user created though so if you're into this pattern, sew it! Now! :)

I cut a size 42 which is normal for me with Burda. With skirts, I've been using a 16/42 front and 18/44 back for awhile but the last couple skirts I made were a bit big so I opted to go a straight 42. I did a 1" full bottom adjustment *park this* and was on my way. The pattern calls for 1.5 yards, which I had, but my fabric was only 52" wide. *park this too*.  

So let's just get the major mistake out there.

Wait, can I just say, I love topstitching!! I don't wear jeans often but it's one of the reasons I enjoy making them :) I used a thread that was *just* lighter than the fabric. I used a topstitching needle and doubled thread. YSG mentioned paying attention to the directions so for once in my life, I actually did so :-p
Since the twill looks the same on both sides, I used tape to mark the wrong side after cutting. But, that whole 1.5 yards of 52" fabric meant that I had to 'fussy-cut'.  I went to interface my zipper area (which I always do with invisible zippers), And realized I'd interfaced the RIGHT SIDE of the fabric. I panicked, I Googled, and I was actually able to remove most of it! But now I'm looking at my pattern pieces so utterly confused...turns out, I did the full butt adjustment wrong! I added the wedge to the side seam vs at center back. So that entire pattern piece was just WRONG. It was wrong. It made the pattern pieces unusable. The only fabric I had left was the fabric to cut the belt and facings (I'd saved the facings for last because I knew I could use an alternate fabric if needed).

I had to retrace the pattern piece and do the proper adjustment. Then I just barely found a large enough section to cut new back pieces. It was SO close and I thought I'd made it. And then...


There were several missing chunks. Doh!

And a serious 'make it work' moment with my zipper. Whew!

I ended up using the 'bad' backs for the belt and I found chunks to use for my facings. I had to do 3/8" side seams and had chunks missing out of the lower seam allowance, which thankfully, doesn't matter much.

I thought that pocket bag was so cute and pretty much worked on that first. I was using doubled thread for topstitching, right? I accidentally topstitched the wrong side. There was some other weird mistake with this bag but I don't remember now.

Oh! Aaaaaaaaaand I forgot to leave an opening in CF even though I had the warning to pay attention. DOH! I had already topstitched the seam but no worries. I ended up cutting open the slit and doing bar-tacking on either end to ensure it was secure. Whew.

I had major difficulties sewing the pockets in after the seams were sewn.  I'm not sure why it was handled that way but also get that I was just having a hard time with this pattern. I angled the end of the belt and topstitched it, but it was "backwards" once the belt was in the D-ring. (sheesh).

I was off work that Monday and worked on this skirt on and off ALL DAY. And still had hours of work to do on the other days I worked on it. It was just never ending.

But it's so perfect! It's so bright! It fits so well!!!!! And the pocket bag is ADORABLE! I have a piece of red denim that I think will have a turn with this pattern this fall :)

I thought I had more up-close pics but didn't. And I put my summer stuff away this weekend. 


This post was written back in July when I sewed the pattern. I never got pics when wearing it and took photos for the blog this past week. Err, it's a little too snug now. LOL!!! I assume once I'm cleared to return to activity I'll drop the extra few I've put on. :-p 


I have been low on sew-jo. I did get the top from M7812 finished. But I also have a ton of other stuff I need to finish. I realized today what my hold up was!
  • I have to finish hand sewing the binding on my mom's quilt. I'm just over halfway done. 
  • I have to finish my jacket from the tailoring class that requires hand sewing (I chose not to bag the lining).
  • I have to hem the skirt I made for my Minerva post.
I don't mind hand sewing but I just can't do a ton of hand sewing back to back. I need to just buckle down and focus on finishing up one thing at a time.

But then, when the mojo returned, I wanted to SEW ALL THE THINGS!

There's a lot of stuff I want to make but I realized that I don't have a pair of plain, straight leg jeans in a dark wash. I started cutting out a new pair of the Style Arc Sandra this weekend. I want to sew the Claryville jeans by Workroom Social but didn't feel like tracing, cutting it out, doing a muslin. Blergh. Hopefully I'll get them done some time this winter. I like the look of the pattern.