Saturday, January 11, 2020

Burda 04/2010 #114

I went down to the basement to look for a pattern and it wasn't there. Well, there were *several* piles of patterns and magazines in various places. A lot of them were recent additions that just hadn't made it into the pattern cabinets. Among them was 3 old Burda mags that I recently acquired. I thumbed through and fell so hard for the April 2010 issue!!

From the SMF blog. smfabricblog.com
I LOVE so many of the tops and a couple jackets and dresses and - win! I had been waffling on using one of my TNTs: B5678 or Burda 7136 or a different pattern for my striped shirt. I contemplated B5526 because I wanted something casual (e.g. B5678 was out, it's an awesome pattern but very fitted). This pattern checked the boxes! A semi-fitted style with a yoke, stand collar, cuffs, all that.

I have to take the lighting I can get. It is just too dark and cold lately :/
I settled on this striped fabric for my shirt long before I decided on the pattern. Last year after my Fabric Mart visit, I bought a bunch of shirting and I've been thinking about *this* shirt for a long time. 


I cut the pockets, cuffs and collar stand on the cross grain....and these buttons! Eek! The last JA sale on buttons was buy 3, get 3 and I just grabbed these because they were cool.

love this  image of the collar stand! :)

I'd posted a poll on Instagram about using the pattern piece included for the pocket and an oversized rectangular pocket. It was overwhelmingly in favor of the pattern pocket but I just really liked the pop of the oversized pocket!


I traced a size 40 at the neck and shoulder and graded to a 42 through the armhole and body. I added a bit over an inch at the hip (which wasn't enough and I sewed a 3/8" seam allowance through that area. 

I added 1" to the bicep and made no other adjustments.

I set the first sleeve and holy buckets! There was SO MUCH EASE in that cap. The pattern does NOT show a puff or gathered sleeve. But the sleeve was like 4" bigger than the armhole! I ended up removing some of the height off the cap but think I overdid it. I will be sure to adjust the sleeve pattern.  

The other issue was that they gave measurements to "draft" the continuous lap and THAT included seam allowance. The measurements they gave to "draft" the cuff did NOT include seam allowances. WHAT THE HECK BURDA!?!?! 

I took a slightly deeper pleat on the sleeve and sewed the cuff side seams at ~3/8". I attached them to the sleeve with a 3/8" seam allowance and thankfully, Burda drafts a pretty long sleeve. But then, with reducing the sleeve cap a bit too much, they are *just* a tad bit on the short side. Whew. 

I foresee lots and lots of wear with this one! I really like it and I think it'll be super versatile for me.


26 comments:

  1. I despise high, excessive sleeve caps!! love the shirt

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  2. It looks really good. I like the pocket choice. Happy sewing!

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  3. My goodness, you are an incredible seamstress. What a beautiful job. Love the pockets you chose as well.

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  4. My favourite shirt pattern! It looks great on you, despite fitting issues. I've definitely taken a chunk out of the sleeve cap ease, and drafted my own tower placket. Burda tends towards excessive sleeve cap ease, I find.

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    1. Thanks Siobhan! Yes! Your blog post mentioned the crazy sleeve cap height!!!

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  5. Beautiful job! It looks great on you.

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  6. I recently made the dude two shirts and had a similar issue with the sleeve cuffs: the measurements with seam allowances were WAY too short. I didn't have enough fabric to re-cut the cuffs, so I had to take extra deep pleats in the sleeve to make the cuff fit. It turns out the cuffs are way too small. Why, Burda why?! =)

    The buttons are PERFECT with this shirt!

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    1. Grrrrr!! So annoying when that happens!!! I said they won't catch me slipping again. Next time I'm going to measure the sleeve opening.

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  7. Your blouse looks terrific. That was a great Burda issue.

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  8. I love the buttons with this stripe and you did such a great job of fitting. It looks perfect on you.

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  9. This is really nice. Keep up the good work.

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  10. Your fabric and button choice was perfect for this shirt. As I'm on a shirt kick myself, I'm loving this!

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  11. This shirt looks so crisp, clean, and beautiful! The stripes choice was perfect, and now I want to browse all my past Burda issues, lol!!

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  12. I think your shirt is marvelous and I think the cap of the sleeve looks really good too. The only thing I would do, other than add length to the sleeve if you need it, is add a bit more to the hip because I like things looser for me. And I love the pockets you choose. Fabulous job. Inspiring.

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