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Sunday, March 17, 2019

The Wadder: McCall's 7722

Like me, you've probably seen a ton of versions of this pattern in the sewing-sphere. I've had my eye on it for awhile and was SUPER excited to make it.

I had this (affiliate link) very cool animal print (snow leopard?) lightweight sweater knit. But I only had a yard!! When I bought the fabric I intended on replicating an old NL6230 top that I really like but the neckline is too wide and the binding is atrocious :) I wear it ALL the time. And then, I decided M7722 would be perfect! But I only had ONE YARD.

I cut a size 14 and did my normal cheater FBA. I did not have enough fabric for the full upper sleeve. And once I got the pattern pieces cut out and realized how long it was, I decided to shorten it. And I laid everything out and huzzah! I could fit the pattern pieces on the 1yard. I folded the edges in toward the center *just enough* to cut the front and back. After I cut those pieces I was able to fold the remaining yardage in half and cut the sleeves. The sleeve pattern piece is pretty wide as it's gathered on top and bottom...but I made it work!


I did not enjoy making the top with all the gathering. So much gathering!!!!! And while the black wool knit (that I used on B6621) was a good match in stretch and recovery, it was quite a bit thinner. I cut the lower bands double - placed the hemline on the fold of the pattern. I sewed the long edge and then folded it over...like any other sleeve band but just extra long.

I finished and thought it was *SO* cute.

And then I tried it on. Nope, nope, nope. And as mentioned, there are no suggestions needed for "trying to make it work". It doesn't and it isn't deserving of more time and I know I won't wear it as is. Into the donation pile it goes.


The combo of ALL THE VOLUME on top and super slim fitting on the bottom, I just do not like it. 


I tried to. I love the print. I would say it could be about an inch longer...


Soooo yeah, 34DDD + wide sleeves at the exact same level = nooooo thank you. I still think it's a cute pattern and love that it HAS worked for so many. Maybe I'll keep it in the collection in case I ever make it to getting a reduction :-p

I also wanted to quickly review the Evie La Luve Frankie panty. I've never had a huge interest in sewing undies or bras and almost every time I sew a knit I think, "how on earth are people using the same fabric to sew underwear?!?!" Now, maybe I just buy super thin ones?? LOL! But I made a couple pair in cotton/lycra jersey and will probably mostly stick to making lace undies should I continue down this path.


This pattern had really good reviews, looked most similar in cut to my favorite RTW bikini cut briefs, and I liked the variations. Well, while I can see doing a decorative elastic strap on the back, I can't imagine doing it with rings and sliders. Seems like it would be uncomfortable!

My hips measure into the XXL (~43"). I was skeptical though looking at the pattern pieces and cut an XL. I made a muslin and made the following changes to the pattern:

*Added 1/2" to the back pattern piece - yes, this puts the hip measurement into the XXL sizing. BUT, I needed it in back and not in front. Which makes sense with having to do a full butt adjustment on almost everything.
*In that same vein, I added a little more butt coverage in back. I did this as a curved line, with nothing at the side seam and nothing at the crotch seam, I added about 1/2". It worked very well and provides just the right amount of coverage for a round bottom.
*Added 3/8" to the center front tapering to nothing at the side seam. They seemed to dip a bit in the muslin.
*Narrowed the crotch width 3/8" (so 3/4" total!) I swear, every swimsuit pattern I've ever tried has SUPER wide crotch widths and I knew as soon as I traced this one off that it would be too wide.

I made this pair and they are almost *exactly* the same as my fave VS cotton undies.

from my IG stories :)

I used lingerie elastic at the waist and 3/8" swimsuit elastic in the legs (it was what I had on hand!). I made a 2nd pair and was using braided elastic in the legs and way, way too stiff. I will have to rip that out and either just hem the legs on my coverstitch or use some of my newly acquired lingerie elastic.

I bought a bunch of laces so I will try a few more pair. But don't see myself fully on this bandwagon any time soon (after I purchased like 40 yards of lingerie elastics and a whole bunch of lace! LOL!!)

I have spent many, many, many parts of many days trying to re-learn casting on and basic stockinette stitch. Goodness gracious! But I am knitting a swatch now! Woohoo!!!

I can knit about 2 rows then I have to take a break. Hmm, maybe I should make that baby hat a size bigger :-p

17 comments:

  1. I am WITH YOU on big puffy sleeves that end at the elbow: though pretty in theory, in practice, when combined with my full bust, I end up looking like a ship in full sail. D: What a bummer to have to write off your pretty snow leopard knit.

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    1. EXACTLY! The upper half of my upper half became a giant square. No thank you!

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  2. Can you detach the sleeves and keep it as a tank? Pretty fabric.

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    1. I'm not a fixer. If there was something that I thought would make it workable, I'd try it. But this just doesn't work for me. Which is fine. Every project isn't a success.

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  3. I agree with Max that the fabric is very pretty and that you could ditch the sleeves and turn it into a fun tank. Would be a great layering piece.

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    1. Thanks Summer but as I mentioned to Max...It just isn't my way. It's done and doesn't work then it's done and doesn't work.

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  4. Then use some fabric from the sleeves to lengthen the top.

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    1. Yeah...no. LOL! When I've decided it's done...it's done.

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  5. I'm w/you one the move on approach. Once done, tried, and hate it, there is no recovery. Something more brides and bridesmaids should keep in mind before a final decision. This also illustrates how valuable a muslin is. I realize this is stretchy knit, but I have seen loads of knits marked down to $1/yard. A good investment for any seamstress who sees pricey knit projects in their future. This time? Trust your instincts and make your next project!!

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    1. Yep! I just do not have that much energy for something that I don't like on me!

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  6. Do you know what I do with pieces like this where I really like the fabric, but the garment didn't come out well enough? I keep it and wear it around the house! I have a couple of them my closet right now - I enjoy the feel and look of the fabrics, and I am wearing stuff that is still nicer than the usual casual around-the-house items sold in the stores.

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  7. I LOVE this! That you post a "failure" is courageous! Actually, it looks like you did a fabulous job of sewing it, but that's the problem with sewing...you can't tell what it will look like until it's actually made. This is a wonderful story and a great cautionary tale with those of us with plenty of "stuff" on top. I guess I'll leave the full sleeves for other people. Thanks for this.

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  8. I agree that the fabric is spectacular, and wish it would have turned out more to your liking. Well, there's always more fabric, lol! I love the swatch you have going with the baby hat, and yay for undies!! i have the free Megan Nielsen pattern that I am still trying to get around to making.

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  9. That's too bad about the McCall's shirt because it's stinkin' cute. I bought this pattern for the cold shoulder-ruffle version. I didn't even notice this version was part of the same pattern until you mentioned it.

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  10. It was so interesting to learn why this was a wadder - if you'd asked me, I would have thought it was the contrast portion of the sleeves. Everything else looked fine to my unstylish eyes :-p Anyway, goodbye wadder.

    Also, YAY KNITTING!!!!!!!

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  11. I've been there, and done that. My feeling, when I have to donate a garment I've just spent time on, is that while it did not work for me, but it will work for someone else who will be delighted. Maybe that person has a limited budget but now they have a very nice garment to enjoy.

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  12. Hey Kesha, Your top is cute, and I understand. I in the same boat as you with tops that have a lot of volume. I try to minimum the volume on top and add some to the bottom. On the panties, in good analyzes on making them fit. In the pass I used a favorite old pair to create a sloper. We want the best fit in the front as well as the back coverage. I hate when the undies side to the middle a give me a wedgie. LOL The knitting looks great. This is something I want to relearn as well. Happy creativity! ;-)

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