Wednesday, February 24, 2021

Burda 1/2018 #119 in POLKA DOTS!

I made this hoodie a few years ago (here). WOW, time flies! I wear it ALL THE TIME and have intended to make a 2nd one for forever. 

I picked up this polka-dot sweatshirt fleece on my trip to Fabric Mart in 2018, so it was long overdue to be sewn up. 

I used a straight size 40, same as last time. I added 1" to the sleeve length and did a slash and spread vertically on the pocket to add an inch. Look at the difference! So much more useful now!

Everything about this pattern is just so perfect to me! I love the shoulder line, the sleeve, the binding, the curved seams, the length, the hood fits...it's just AWESOME!!

I didn't have any black bias tape and was going back and forth on adding a pop of color. Ultimately, I decided to just take advantage of the white dots. I actually used an off-white as the white seemed to be too bright. I really love the binding details included on this pattern!!

I went with a black nylon zipper, eyelets for the drawstring, some white cording, and silver cord stops. 

I am coming to like dropped shoulders now that I am less busty. The sleeves are nice and roomy. The have this large pleat at the top and the lower edge is eased into a cuff.


I wear this one all the time too and sometimes there's a little competition between which hoodie will win the day :-p 


This is what I wore to work today but I had a solid cardigan on hand that I swapped out for the 2 interviews I held! hahahaha! No one knew I was sporting leggings and sneakers. I guess there's a silver lining to be found in eternally working from home :-p




Sunday, February 21, 2021

Burda 1/2021 #120

I'm so far behind on blogging! GAH! And then on Saturday, it was really bright and I knew I should have gotten some photos taken but didn't. What happened Sunday? It snowed all day and was overcast. Grr. 

I sewed this pattern earlier this year for my daughter here. I knew that this Veronica Beard fabric that I'd been hoarding was a perfect pairing to the pattern.

Here's a VB jacket using the fabric 


And V9286


I don't remember the composition and it was on FabricMart as a boucle. The Nordstrom's site lists the jacket as a cotton blend tweed with the following composition: 64% cotton, 27% linen, 8% polyester, 1% elastane.

It was a really great fabric to work with! I may have enough left over for a skirt! We'll see!! 

I used my normal Burda sizing - a 40 neckline and bust, graded to a 42 waist and 44 hip. I ended up adding a CB seam to do a swayback adjustment (5/8") and add some shaping. 


It's a pretty straightforward sew. The darts. AH! It has bust darts and the sleeve has 7 darts (3 on each side and one at the hem). That was not fun. It was totally not fun in this striped, ravelly fabric. But I do love the finished product, so it was worth it!

I adjusted the belt width to fit the 1.25" D-ring I had on hand (I think the pattern called for 2"). But otherwise, sewn as per the pattern!

I've already worn it several times since finishing it. It's so cozy and fun to wear, and the stripe makes it fairly versatile with bottoms in my wardrobe. 

I have a host of finished things to blog, making a list here to help myself! :)
S2892 top
Burda 3/2011 dress
S9011 dress
Burda 1/2018 sweatshirt
S8529 sweatshirt
Burda 6990 top

My plans for February included muslining a jeans pattern for my husband. But then we found a pair that fit him really well, and I bought 2 so I'm not sure this is a priority for now. I am almost done with the golf club covers for my brother:


And, I was sewing a shirt for my son-in-law's birthday! I hope to get photos of him in it but for now, I have some detail shots. I used McCall's 6044, a TNT for many sewers, and a Brooks Brothers cotton shirting from SR Harris. 

I got these Kylie & The Machine labels from Maker Mountain Fabrics on etsy. The "You Can't Buy This" label was perfect for a gift!

shout out to the edge-stitch foot! It's a game changer!

I used a technique from a 1986 issue of Threads (I have the archive) for the collar. It's very clean, though also, the shirting was pretty rigid and that made it a little tougher to work with cleanly.
I used french seams throughout that I then serged and topstitched. One time I did flat-felled seams but I just don't care enough to go through all of that. 

For the hem, I stitched at 5/8" then turned twice and topstitched. 

For the buttonhole side, I reversed the sewing of the band. I attached on the inside first, turned it out, then pressed under and topstitched. It adds a little bit of texture. 

Excuse the excessive wrinkles in this pic but, I was doing my final press and scorched the front right above the pocket, and I was doing all sorts of stuff to get it out. By the time I noticed these wrinkles, I had already turned the iron off :) I did press them out before packing up the finished shirt!

I very rarely do a buttonhole on the collar stand. I often find that area  little too bulky to do it well but it worked out fine this time!

For the sleeves, I stitched at 1/4", folded under and pressed, then turned up the remaining 1" hem allowance and topstitched. 

For baby, I used McCall's 6016, in the smallest size, and used snaps instead of buttons. 


The collar stand on this pattern. Gah. It took so much effort! AND, I had to actually sew ease stitching to insert these sleeves! Ugh! They really should have been able to be sewn flat. 

I have an Ottobre pattern for shirts that I'm excited to try in the future. It starts at ~2T but at the rate Bert is growing, that won't be too far away! :)

Can't believe this month is almost over!