Sunday, October 27, 2019

Burda Magazine 04/2019 #113

I think this April issue is pretty freaking awesome and this skirt is a STANDOUT! It's an A-line but has such fantastic details that totally elevate it.

When two of my sewing faves sewed it, I knew I was IN. Beth's version and YSG's were both done in denim. And, I wanted a denim one! But I'd bought this bright kelly green cotton twill for a skirt and knew this pattern's details + this fabric would = LOVE!

Now, this skirt has a saga. All user created though so if you're into this pattern, sew it! Now! :)

I cut a size 42 which is normal for me with Burda. With skirts, I've been using a 16/42 front and 18/44 back for awhile but the last couple skirts I made were a bit big so I opted to go a straight 42. I did a 1" full bottom adjustment *park this* and was on my way. The pattern calls for 1.5 yards, which I had, but my fabric was only 52" wide. *park this too*.  

So let's just get the major mistake out there.

Wait, can I just say, I love topstitching!! I don't wear jeans often but it's one of the reasons I enjoy making them :) I used a thread that was *just* lighter than the fabric. I used a topstitching needle and doubled thread. YSG mentioned paying attention to the directions so for once in my life, I actually did so :-p
Since the twill looks the same on both sides, I used tape to mark the wrong side after cutting. But, that whole 1.5 yards of 52" fabric meant that I had to 'fussy-cut'.  I went to interface my zipper area (which I always do with invisible zippers), And realized I'd interfaced the RIGHT SIDE of the fabric. I panicked, I Googled, and I was actually able to remove most of it! But now I'm looking at my pattern pieces so utterly confused...turns out, I did the full butt adjustment wrong! I added the wedge to the side seam vs at center back. So that entire pattern piece was just WRONG. It was wrong. It made the pattern pieces unusable. The only fabric I had left was the fabric to cut the belt and facings (I'd saved the facings for last because I knew I could use an alternate fabric if needed).

I had to retrace the pattern piece and do the proper adjustment. Then I just barely found a large enough section to cut new back pieces. It was SO close and I thought I'd made it. And then...

There were several missing chunks. Doh!

And a serious 'make it work' moment with my zipper. Whew!

I ended up using the 'bad' backs for the belt and I found chunks to use for my facings. I had to do 3/8" side seams and had chunks missing out of the lower seam allowance, which thankfully, doesn't matter much.

I thought that pocket bag was so cute and pretty much worked on that first. I was using doubled thread for topstitching, right? I accidentally topstitched the wrong side. There was some other weird mistake with this bag but I don't remember now.

Oh! Aaaaaaaaaand I forgot to leave an opening in CF even though I had the warning to pay attention. DOH! I had already topstitched the seam but no worries. I ended up cutting open the slit and doing bar-tacking on either end to ensure it was secure. Whew.

I had major difficulties sewing the pockets in after the seams were sewn.  I'm not sure why it was handled that way but also get that I was just having a hard time with this pattern. I angled the end of the belt and topstitched it, but it was "backwards" once the belt was in the D-ring. (sheesh).

I was off work that Monday and worked on this skirt on and off ALL DAY. And still had hours of work to do on the other days I worked on it. It was just never ending.

But it's so perfect! It's so bright! It fits so well!!!!! And the pocket bag is ADORABLE! I have a piece of red denim that I think will have a turn with this pattern this fall :)

I thought I had more up-close pics but didn't. And I put my summer stuff away this weekend. 

This post was written back in July when I sewed the pattern. I never got pics when wearing it and took photos for the blog this past week. Err, it's a little too snug now. LOL!!! I assume once I'm cleared to return to activity I'll drop the extra few I've put on. :-p 

I have been low on sew-jo. I did get the top from M7812 finished. But I also have a ton of other stuff I need to finish. I realized today what my hold up was!
  • I have to finish hand sewing the binding on my mom's quilt. I'm just over halfway done. 
  • I have to finish my jacket from the tailoring class that requires hand sewing (I chose not to bag the lining).
  • I have to hem the skirt I made for my Minerva post.
I don't mind hand sewing but I just can't do a ton of hand sewing back to back. I need to just buckle down and focus on finishing up one thing at a time.

But then, when the mojo returned, I wanted to SEW ALL THE THINGS!

There's a lot of stuff I want to make but I realized that I don't have a pair of plain, straight leg jeans in a dark wash. I started cutting out a new pair of the Style Arc Sandra this weekend. I want to sew the Claryville jeans by Workroom Social but didn't feel like tracing, cutting it out, doing a muslin. Blergh. Hopefully I'll get them done some time this winter. I like the look of the pattern.

Saturday, October 19, 2019

Breast Reduction Surgery Pt. 3

My last update was 2 weeks ago on the 5th. As of the 12th, I felt about the same and not much had changed. Leading into the 3rd week, I was concerned about the lack of (additional) progress. I was still taking pain killers and muscle relaxers, and quite frankly, still SUPER uncomfortable. My surgeon confirmed everything looked good, was in the range of normal and so I continued to wait.

On Monday the 14th, I suddenly felt SO MUCH better! It was astonishing! This past week was night and day with how I'd been feeling. As of Wednesday, zero pain. I can sleep easily, I'm not napping during the day anymore, I can wear regular (non button-front/zip front) clothing...magic I tell ya!

AND, I drove 3 times this week! The last time I drove my car was September 23rd! Eesh.  I go back to work on Tuesday. In the 4 weeks since I've been home, the weather has turned and my closet was still full of summer clothes. When I do seasonal closet swaps, I also purge.

Long story short, nothing that is a wrap style will work going forward. That isn't surprising. If I made any wrap front garments, they would have absolutely required an FBA.

This NL6301 (a few versions seen here!) wrap dress just does NOT work. LOL!

This NL6123 dress - WAHHH! I have a wedding to attend in early November and I have worn this to a couple weddings and it's a great party dress. 

Here, you can see it isn't just the bust that doesn't fit. The entire neckline (including the back), the armholes, the fit is completely different. 
I couldn't take the dress off fast enough to try on one of my favorite tops. OY!!!!!! It is also weirdly loose in the entire neck/shoulder...and then there's the bust.

Breast reductions includes a lift. The dart is circled and it definitely pointed to my bust point when the top was made. The scribbled line is my new bust point.  

Well now, this is going to be interesting...

-Solid colored tops with darts are out - the dart is completely and noticeably in the wrong place. 
-Princess seamed garments are out because there's too much fullness and I would have, in most cases, lowered the bust point. 
-Pullover tops (like my beloved M6519) seem okay. 
-Tees and other knits that I made 'cheater FBA' adjustments on fit okay in the bust but are a bit droopy at the neckline. 
-Any shopping that I do is more than likely from LOFT. I have quite a few LOFT tops and some of my faves are their "mixed media" where the back is knit and the front is woven. As expected, these fit great now. Below is the single RTW dress that I own (for work...I have a few casual dresses).

Big difference!

Lastly, I cleaned out my bra drawer. There is a non profit that collects new and gently used bras and I'll be shipping the nice ones off to them. The others that showed obvious wear, I harvested the rings and sliders from. It wasn't until I finished that I realized my new size probably won't require the super wide straps/elastic that was needed in these bras. 

I can't wait until I'm fully healed to explore bra making! Most swelling will resolve by ~3 months and final shape and size can often be realized by around month 6. Although the window given is usually 6-12 months.

I have been working on a project for Minerva Crafts, so that'll be coming eventually...after finishing that up, I cut out a new version of M7812. I was able to UNDO MY FBA! I'll include the details when I review it but I was so, so happy to do so :-D

It's still a WIP and I'm wearing a sports bra (for compression for a few more weeks!) but I am so, so, happy with the fit!

red lacing was just to try it on before finishing the side seams...
still needs hemming all around (neckline, hem, sleeves)


Friday, October 18, 2019

Burda Style 04/2019 #119/120

This April issue has been one of my favorites of 2019. I've made 2 of the patterns but there's easily a handful more that I'd love to make!

So, this was finished back in July. The good thing about not reviewing patterns immediately is that you get a real feel for the pattern, the fabric and the fit. So while I hate that I'm so far behind on blogging, this is the plus side of that!

I've worn this dress a ton. A. TON! The rayon challis (FabricMart I think) makes it easy to wear and super comfortable and the print is versatile enough to transition into fall. I haven't worn it since the temps have dropped, but I took photos wearing boots and, it works just as I thought it would!

There are 2 views of that pattern - the other view is maxi length with no ruffles, with breast pockets and epaulets. I made view #120 without the sleeve ruffle. In the right fabric, I like the ruffle (I think Burda's fabric is too stiff for them), but I knew I wanted this to be a transition piece and by eliminating the sleeve ruffle, I can wear this with jackets and looser cardigans.

view #120

I sewed a size 40 neckline and shoulder, graded to a 42. I did not do an FBA because I knew surgery was pending. There was slight gaping in the front before and now, all flat :-D

The pattern just skims the body in such a nice way. You can see by the line drawing that there isn't a ton of shaping - but it works. Ignore my bad posture on the left. The dress really does sit level on me :)

I love gathered ruffles but hate sewing them. I opted for a rolled hem on the ruffle over narrowing hemming all that fabric.

I chose to interface but the collar and facing for stability and to make it easier to sew it all together. I used the *extremely* light Pro-Sheer Elegance by Fashion Sewing Supply.

The armhole is just hemmed. I did that before sewing the side seams. 

While working on it, I'd posted button options on IG. I was almost sold on a metal button but these just felt right with this fabric & pattern!

As you can see from the line drawing, this pattern only included 6 buttons. I used 8 or 9.

If you were maybe perhaps possibly considering this pattern...SEW IT! :) I really love this dress. Definitely need a solid version! 

I didn't post a surgery update last week because I literally felt the same as the previous week. I will be posting an update tomorrow though - lots of sewing related stuff as I had a chance to get my fall clothes out and summer put away.

I'm going to be busy, busy trying to replace things!

Saturday, October 5, 2019

Breast Reduction Surgery Pt. 2

At some point in the past few years, many states have enacted majorly conservative regulations with regards to prescribing opiods. I was taking them every 6 hours (suggested dosage was 4-6) and by day 5, I was still having considerable pain, and I was running low on meds. I started trying to stretch them out to every 8 hours and managed a couple of times. Then I tried to go 10-12 hours and my body said screamed NO! I contacted my doctor, and she gave me another 4-days worth.

Sleeping nearly upright is making me CRAZY. I haven't gotten much sleep since the surgery. And while I can't sleep "in", I am a great napper :-) And most days, I take 2 naps.

Day 8 was my follow-up appointment. She said my incisions look great and I'm healing well. There's no bruising, no drainage, and I don't have a ton of swelling. YAY!!! She also said she's confident I'll be a 34C when it's said and done. I was really hoping for a B cup but they look at the position of your breasts root or footprint on your body when deciding how small they can go.

So you'd imagine, that if someone is wide across the body and deep (vertically), going too small could result in, visually, a pretty flat bustline.  Obviously, this may be someone's natural shape! But from a plastic surgery perspective, it makes sense.

Day 8 was my anniversary. We had take out and cake. :shrug: :)  Day 8 was also the first night I slept all the way through without a dose of pain meds. Yay!! 

On day 9, I was feeling pretty good and, while I've been shaking my head at people (in forums/groups I'm in) wayyyyy overdoing it, on this day, I ended up overdoing it!

My mom sews but she gets flummoxed by pattern instructions. I told her to bring a project to work on because I mistakenly thought I'd be pretty mobile by day 7 ish. There are people that claim they returned to work on day 3 or 5 and I just don't see how!!!!! 

I'd helped her make a couple designs for tees on the Cricut the day before and we were ready to do tee #3 and I didn't have any brown HTV. ugh!! So we went to JoAnn to grab some heat-transfer vinyl. Got home, did that, then I started helping her with her pattern. I had it printed through and knew she would balk at tracing it :-) I traced the pieces, cut some out, and made some basic pattern adjustments (e.g. shortening it 2"). All of this took a few hours and was done back-to-back and when I sat down I was WIPED. And aching. Ow. I ended up taking my pain meds an hour "early" (at hour 5 instead of 6). That was just too much activity for me. 

My mom is leaving today and so we had some family over in the evening. So on day 10 (Friday), I went back to chillin, movies and napping during the day (plus 2-3 short walks) so I'd be able to socialize some come evening. But brother and his family and my uncle and his family came over around 7:30 and stayed til around 1:30 a.m. I woke up STRUGGLING today! 

BUT, I have been able to manage with just extra strength Tylenol. Woot woot!

I still have restrictions:
-A few more days of avoiding reaching above my head which matters because I'll be home alone during the day once my mom leaves. One day, I was feeling pretty good and decided I'd fix my own breakfast! Turned on the Keurig, oops. I can't reach the mugs. I'll warm up some chicken (she made me chicken and waffles for breakfast and DROOL)...oops. I can't reach the foil. Sigh...

The other part of lifting the arms is...I've been restricted to button/zip front clothes. Since I've been home, that's meant 2 pajama tops and 2 hoodies that I've been circulating. 

-No lifting more than 5 lbs. I'm not lifting much of anything.

-No strenuous activity. I've wondered if I should suspend my gym membership because it'll easily be pushing into a 2nd billing cycle before I'm able to go and do more than walk.

-I'm cleared to drive once I am off the pain meds but riding in the car as a passenger has NOT been that fun so I'm not sure I'll be in a hurry to be driving around. 

I'd ordered 2 of these bras from Amazon (no affiliation) in a large and removed the pad. They've worked out really well. I went back and ordered a 4 pack. I'll be wearing sports bras for 6 ish weeks and spending $40 on 6 sports bras is pretty much a steal. Once I'm cleared for exercise, I'll need them because my old ones will be too big! Yay!! 

I read a gazillion (no, really!) stories about people's experiences with reductions and it's SO true that progress happens pretty quickly. 

I think I've mentioned that I have been posting updates on IG periodically. I've gotten so much support, lots of questions, and some jokes related to sewing :)

The one thing that people may really have questions about is - what does this mean for the FBA?

I will finish, per my surgeon, as a "C cup". This is a C cup in bras. Meaning, the difference between my underbust and full bust will be ~3 inches.

With sewing patterns, the "B cup" is a 2" difference between your high bust and full bust. My current UB measurement is about 33" so I wear a 34 band. Add 3 inches to that for a C cup and assume my FB measurement will be 37 inches. My high bust is 36". I should have no issue using patterns as-is when drafted for a B cup.

Before surgery, my HB was 36 and FB was 39.5. This 3.5" difference is why I needed an FBA. And depending on the pattern, my FBA is 3/4" to 1".

And even with patterns with cup sizing, I used the C cup pattern piece because the D had way more projection that my body does. With very fitted patterns, I'd have to do a small FBA (1/2") on the C cup piece.

Clear as mud? Great! :-p

Tuesday, October 1, 2019

September Wrap-up and October Plans

This month I sewed 5.5 yards.

  • Burda 7/2018 top (for my daughter) - 1.5 yards
    • teal poly charmeuse (stash)
  • Burda 6938 pants (for my daughter) - 1.5 yards
    • teal poly charmeuse (stash)
    • elastic
  • Vogue 9099 jacket (WIP) - 2.5 yards
    • gifted lightweight wool suiting
    • gifted silk lining
    • buttons
I added 5 yards of fabric to the stash via my visit to Stonemountain and Daughter :-D

Favorite: Well, my new blazer of course! I have the shell completely done. The hems are stitched, the button holes are sewn...time for the lining!

FAILS: I don't have any this month - YAY!

Accomplishments: The fabric I used for my daughter's birthday outfit was a monster to cut and sew but I made her a CUTE outfit!

I had such a busy month - I traveled 3 weekends in a row and then my surgery was 9/24. I haven't had a chance to take pics of the DOZEN sewn but unblogged projects. Eek! Some stuff may have to make an appearance on the blog via Lily (dress form).

Burda 7/2018 #117 top:

She's a size 36 but she has super broad shoulders and a short torso. I used a 36 for all but the shoulder/sleeves. I cut that area as a 38 and graded back to a 36. I left off the loops/buttons.

The pants, I've made for her a couple times before. I used a size 38 and added 2 inches to the length (1" added both above and below the knee). And I made a self fabric tie for the pants. 

true color

21st Birthday!!

For October, my plans are to finish my blazer and to work on my Minerva Crafts project.  Hopefully, that isn't too ambitious! :)