Some reviews! Ha!!

Soooo behind, but what else is new!?

To start, here is the too small M7061 on me:

No material changes from prior versions. I sewed a Medium, cut the sleeves as long as I could (I squeezed this out of 1.25 yards of fabric, even with that enormous hood pattern piece!). 

My pattern has been adjusted for a 1" increase to the bicep. I added eyelets for the drawstring and totally forgot that the hood overlaps quite a bit in front. I reduced the overlap and just eased the excess into the neckline - it's fine! 

I added the front pocket but didn't enjoy trying to fold and stitch this (very!) thick knit so I left the lower edge of the pocket raw and stitched close to the edge. I cut a strip of cotton knit super long, serged it (and had to continue to reduce the width to fit the eyelets!), turned it out and used it as cording. 

This one may end up being handed over to my daughter, we'll see.

Awhile ago I decided I just HAD to have this dress from the plus section of Burda 3/2011 (#139). 

Cute, right?!

The smallest size is a 44, which is fine for the lower half but too big up top. I graded down one size at the neckline and raglans - I would ordinarily use a 40 front neckline but figured it'd be fine. I ended up sewing the raglans and side seams with a slightly larger seam allowance, and adding no hem allowance which is somewhat typical for me with Burda. I skipped the tie-belt.

I really fell for the shoulder details and then, they almost killed me! I made lots of samples and end the end, I used bias tape ironed flat for the shoulder detail and ponte backed with a lightweight cotton knit for the pocket (and neck bands too!). After getting the one side done, I refused to do it on the other side. 

Fabric is from Michael Levine and has been in stash for about a year and a half.

Lastly, I saw this periodic table fabric (Kaufman) and HAD to have it! I snagged a yard of it knowing I wanted to make a bowl cozy (finally!!!) and a mask, at least. 

I used a tutorial by Vanessa at The Crafty Gemini and it was simple and straightforward until I went to turn it! LOL! I left one end open from low to high point, which was a good 2+ inches and WHEW! It was tough. I used a solid navy Kona cotton for the outside. 

It makes me happy! I'm so glad I finally made it!  I don't use the microwave often because nothing beats convection ovens for reheating, but when I do need the microwave, bowl cozy for the win! 

Reminder to use MICROWAVE SAFE cotton batting (much of the cotton batting has scrim in it that can be flammable). I bought Pellon Wrap-n-Zap, used cotton thread, and it's worked out well the couple times I've used it. 

We have big bowls but then, it's been a long time of having what amounts to a house full of adults, or at least adult-sized bellies. This is a 9" square, I'll make a 10" next time. 

I finished up my Butterick skirt and have the Burda 5/2019 dress partially sewn. 

I might pivot to starting on a jacket. I have an uncanny knack for starting on very fitted garments right at the worst time of the month where my belly is painfully bloated and I feel horrible. 

Simplicity 1945 #BHMDesignerPatterns

I can't believe I haven't blogged in 2 weeks. Winter makes it so tough to get pics!! So today I have some substandard photos :) of an awesome project! :-D

First, here is a smattering of finished, unblogged projects

Burda 1/2020 hoodie

This photo is mid-construction but I finished this Vogue 1674 dress this weekend. 

Too late though for the event I was making it for :(

Simplicity 2061 joggers (may be a wadder)

New Look 6150 top

Vogue 8772 shirt

Simplicity 8948 blouse

Butterick 6183 top

WHEW!

S1945:

I bought this sweater knit from Michael Levine back in October. After prewashing, I was really excited to use it but didn't have a pattern I was certain about. I'm glad I waited!

At some point, I decided I needed 3 new toppers: a black, a white and one more. I wear a lot of grey AND I made this pattern before and loved it (but in a sweater knit with too-open a weave and it didn't hold up) AND it fit for the #BHMPatternDesigners challenge.

I sewed a size medium with a 1/4" forward shoulder adjustment and 1" (total) added to the circumference of the sleeve hem. It sits at the widest part of the forearm for me and I remember it being too snug last time. This way, it sits fine but I can also push it up.

Construction is a little weird IMO. The back has a (beautifully shaped!) cb seam and the neckline is finished with a binding strip. I assume this is because the curve is so tight. However, this seam allowance is 3/8" vs 5/8" everywhere else. My sweater knit was pretty thick once tripled (doubled binding plus the back piece). I ended up ripping that out, recutting the binding strip and attaching it, trimming it, and coverstitching it down. This way, I was able to line the front coverstitching up nicely.

The pattern does include instructions for a serger and has you tack the seam allowance down after sewing since the front and back necklines are already finished.

I used a slightly lighter grey with a wider needle width and really like how it turned out! The only other adjustment was to sew the side seams at 3/8" from waist to hem.

I was in leggings today as it was an off day (and failed sew day). paired with a top from Burda 8/2018

I was working on this dress from the 5/2019 Ottobre today and for someone unknown reason, cut it in a 44/46 (44 neckline, 46 everywhere else). This does NOT fit me. As the side seam is gathered, I can't take it in anymore without completely disrupting the lines. Based on *my* experience with Big4 and Burda, this is approximately equal to a Burda 44 & Big4 18.

At this point, the side seams are basted (overlapping fronts serged together), the neckline is finished and the sleeves are cut out (~ 3/4 length). The fabric is a rayon blend double knit from Metro Textiles. 

If you'd like to in-progress dress to finish up, let me know. I posted a video of the dress in my IG stories. 

October Wrap-Up and Fall/Winter Sewing Plans

This month I sewed 6.25 yards.

• New Look 6418 skirt - 1.25 yards (WIP)
• Minerva Crafts ponte
• zipper

• McCall's 6996 cardigan - 2 yards 
• Minerva Crafts ponte

• McCall's 7218 top - 1.5 yards
• yellow jersey 

• Style Arc Sandra jeans - 1.5 yards (WIP)
• Denim from stash
• zipper, tack button

Favorite: M7218 top. Well, I love this pattern and with my adjustments to the neckline, it works much better than version 1. And, I was unable to undo my FBA and sew it as-is and it fits beautifully!

FAILS: I am not sold on the cardigan. I've made this pattern a couple times before but always in a jersey knit. I think the ponte may have been too thick for it. So far, it's just been hanging out on my dress form.

Accomplishments: I redid the entire neckline on that McCall's top to make it work. That's pretty serious business for me! :) 

I did add 16 yards to the stash. Y'all, I tried so hard. I knew being at home recovering would leave me vulnerable :-D Especially once I realized I couldn't sew because more than a few minutes of any activity was draining. 

There was a rust-orange "leopard" print double knit at Michael Levine and I really wanted it for a tunic (column 2, top #2). The fabric was like $6/yd and for 2 yards, shipping was going to be like $17! But they were also having a sitewide sale. So then I found a shirting that I wanted and a couple of sweater knits that were reasonable (they're nice too!!!). I think my total was around $40. And shipping was going to be another $20! So I walked away. 

THREE DAYS LATER they were still having a sale and that fabric was still there! I figured why spend $60 and get $40 worth of fabric when I could spend $75 and get $75 worth of fabric!?!?! :-p

#sewinglogic

I got the leopard fabric, the shirting ended up being sold out. I got two modal knits (at $3.60 and $2.70 per yard!!!), a striped jersey, a charcoal double knit and 2 sweater knits. Ahhhh :) I also love that their confirmation emails include thumbnails of the fabric.

Everything washed and dried well! The green and black striped modal is a little Freddy Kruegerish in person LOL! The ribbed sweater knit (white/grey) is BEAUTIFUL!

I'm really planning to keep the stash additions to a minimum going forward. I was so disappointed when they notified me about the stripe. When my order came and I was sorting to prewash, I had already purchased a striped shirting from SR Harris to use for this specific project. Grrr! So it was actually good for me...and I hate when I find fabric that I've *completely* forgotten about. 

Moving on!

I still have a gazillion reviews to write. I posted an update on IG while working on my jeans. I have a lot of hand sewing to work through. 

1. Finish my mom's quilt binding
2. Sew my blazer lining
3. Hem my NL skirt for my Minerva post. Which I mentioned I'll just do a blind stitch by machine to get it finished.

I've made the Style Arc Sandra jeans twice before and they are looking good. I have them basted together but somehow, someway, I always end up making pants during PMS week. I do it over, and over, and over again. So they are snug, but that pattern has 3/8" seam allowances so it's not like I can find more room if I actually did need it. But, I have totally sewn things up during this week only to find them far too big afterwards. Fibroids and cysts make for some impressive monthly bloat!

I. NEED. TOPS!! I was looking through the stash and was so excited about all of the new possibilities. SO many things have been weeded from the closet and as we are deep into the cooler temps, I want more sweater-type tops that can be worn to work. 

Starting with the tops. Left column, down then back up to the second column. 

• M7601 I've wanted to make this for forever. I plan to use a black and white diagonal striped blouseweight 
• V1629 LOVE this and plan to make it in a black and white print georgette.
• M7975 top, unsure of color/print but I'm thinking either a solid or a stripe (vs other print options)
• NL6644 top in a solid neutral (cream? grey?)
• B5678 fabric undecided. I just know I need a shirt!
• V1642 in this cool textured woven I picked up from Metro Textiles
• V9026 sweater in the rust leopard print
• Burda 6990 in a soft blue (soft & fuzzy!) Halston knit
• S9017 (drool) tunic in *hopefully* the same knit from Fabric Mart that I used for this Vogue top.

Dresses:

• M7979 tunic/minidress (totally plan to pair with leggings/boots) in a black sweater knit
• NL6298 dress in a plum heathered double knit
• Burda 10/2018 dress is actually NOT supposed to be here. Doh. But I am not going back to change the collage sooooo, yeah! My 3rd dress is actually Ottobre 5/2019 in a geometric print double knit from Metro Textiles:

Toppers:

• Burda 06/2018 in a black & off white boucle
• S8992 cardigan in the grey and white ribbed sweater knit from Michael Levine

Bottoms:

• Birkin Flares in a medium wash denim
• M7982 in a camel suiting from FM or Metro Textiles
• And then, 2 pair of trousers chosen from 3 patterns that I used before. 
• S2700
• Burda 6432
• Burda 03/2013

I'm thinking one pair of the Burda magazine pants because they are flat-front and then 1 pair from one of the other patterns. The cut of the Burda seems more my taste right now compared to the wide leg of the Simplicity. But there's some fit stuff I didn't work out in the Burda and the Simplicity fits so well. We'll see.

• NL6418 skirt in pleather. I will make the lower panels a little shorter, but I've been wanting this skirt for awhile and I'm making it, for sure, this year!

Other:

• Watson bra. I have a few appropriate fabrics/laces for this. It will be months before I'm at my final size and shape and I don't want to spend a ton of money buying bras and bralettes before then. I bought a wireless bra in a 36C and a week later, there was room in the cups. Hopefully I can make a handful to get me through!
• Also, I own 2 hoodies and no other long sleeved loungewear. I hope to crank out a couple tops for just lounging around. I really do draw a line between whats 'at-home' clothes and what's 'outside' clothes. Shrug. :)

Now, this is more of a wish list than a sewing plan. I'm sure that there may be some "ooh shiny" or possibly amending fabric/pattern pairing...you know how it goes!

This month, my goals are

• finish up my 3 big WIPs (quilt, skirt for Minerva, blazer)
• 2 pair of pants 
• 2 long-sleeved tops/sweaters/tunics (I'm dying for the leopard one so that, for sure!)
• 2 Watson bras

I had a big birthday, we had my parents here, and traveled one weekend in July.

We traveled 2 weekends in August

We traveled 3 weekends in September and then I had surgery

I pretty much recovered all of October

IT HAS BEEN SO, SO BUSY!  November is going to feel like such a reprieve! 

Mid Year Check-in and Summer Sewing Plans

and June wrap-up...except there's not much to wrap up!

This month I sewed a colorblocked version of NL6301 (approximately 2.5 yards used) and it was a quasi-fail. Drats.
I bought NO fabric!
I bought NO patterns!

Mid Year Check!

• I've sewn 83 yards this year.
• I've made 43 items including gifted garments, excluding quilts (2). That sounds like a lot, I know. Accounting for the gifts, donated garments, fails and a UFO, that's down to 30. I had 10 items that were sleepwear or loungewear, down to 20. Those 20 garments are then split about 70/30 between workwear and casual/weekend wear. So an average of 2.5 workwear items per month and 1 casual item...not too crazy :) I don't think? :-p
• I made 4 gifts; 3 tops for my daughter and 1 for my mom.

one of the garments made for my daughter; Burda 1/2018 hoodie

• I've donated 3 (well 2 and NL6301 will be donated): M6886 and Burda 2/2018 top

I just did not like the color of the M6886 dress on me. Felt too bland/blah

The twisty Burda was SO cute. But that ITY was one that felt too "plastic-y"...a pretty print but it didn't feel good on. I definitely plan to sew it again in nicer fabric (ahem, wool jersey to the rescue??).
 
• I've had 2 major fails: M7724 and B6551:

I threw this pattern away

• I have 3 so-so garments, 2 that likely won't survive the next purge:
• S8601-love the pattern, hate the fabric (poplin shirting, bleh). Will remake with a lower/more open neckline
• Otto 2/2018 top-again, great pattern but the cotton knit that I used for the top required more room. My boobs are smashed in it and that makes me sad.
• Otto 2/2015 tee-pattern is okay (I'm not completely sold) but that fabric didn't work. It's now a loungewear tee

2018 Goals/Sew-lutions:

• I had a goal of 18 Burda patterns for the year and I've sewn 10 so far. YAY!
• I had a goal of no more than 18 new patterns in stash this year and I've purchased 15. Eeeek! I really want McCall's 7780 and the Burnside bibs so...
• I had a goal to sew 2 nightgowns and 2 sleep shorts. I fell in love with B6031 and made 4 nightgowns! I wear those and 2 RTW rompers to sleep most nights. I still want a "summer" one since I bought white lace :)
• I had a goal to sew 3 new outerwear pieces the first 4 months of the year. I have none outerwear (grammatical error intended).

• The replacement Burda for the CCF Clare is probably a wadder :( I don't like Raglan sleeves. I should have gone with the other coat with set in sleeves. And, it was a bit too big at the time I was working on it and now I've lost about 12 lbs so I don't even know if it's worth trying to save. This weight loss was not on purpose so it is good/not good. Stress sucks and is life ruining.
• It got too warm for me to sew the navy short Burda coat. The tundra went from 16" of snow on 4/14 to like, 90 degree weather 2 weeks later.
• My uncooperative hand and finding out I had to move paired with hot, hot weather made the trench coat a no-go. I did get it about 80% traced though so I'll be planning that in the early part of August to be ready for fall. Well the 2.7 weeks of cool-ish weather before winter comes.

• I had a goal to sew a 4-piece black workwear wardrobe (3 items were made December 2017). I made V9032, B5760 (both TNTs), Burda 6853 and Burda 11/2007 #113. The neckline on the 11/2007 Burda is weird and I've only worn the jacket (finished in January!) once. I always want to shrug/roll my shoulders, fix it while it's on. I don't wear fussy clothes. The other 3 have gotten a workout in the wardrobe! And that wool suiting was really nice so I think I'll have them awhile.
• I had a goal to complete a loungewear 'wardrobe'. Did that! Love all the pieces I made and wear them OFTEN! My absolute favorite items are the hoodie from the 1/2018 Burda and the joggers from Burda 6659.
• I had a goal to sew a new pair of Birkin flare jeans. I fouled up the zipper when I made mine and I wear them, but only with untucked/longer shirts. I need(!) a new pair. Soon.
• I had a goal to sew a nude-for-me slip. I have a black one and a not-nude-for-me nude one. I still want this. Hopefully for fall.
• I planned to participate in the PR Red Carpet contest in March and did not. And I have not been too into the site lately.

My birthday is coming up (soon!) and I want to sew 2 dresses; one for day and one for night. Day dress is for certain; NL6507. We will see if I get to a party dress or not...but maybe not because my sewing room is NOT setup yet. I'll be using this rayon challis from Fabric Mart.

July is when I start to wind up my summer sewing. I will likely have some stragglers, but I live for fall / early winter (before it's cold, cold) and tend to refocus my sewing once we hit the month of August.  For the rest of summer, I want to sew:

B6330 maxi dress in this double brushed poly from my trip to Fabric Mart.

S8414 dress in this border print cotton lawn from SR Harris if I can make it work...if not it'll be a solid yellow lawn from Fabric.com. Idk where it is right now and it doesn't look like I have a pic of it. This dress has been on my wish list since it was released.

Bodice of M7728 for the Jay/Bey OTRII concert in this Ankara wax print from Michael Levine with a paneled maxi-length skirt. Well, that was the plan! Then I thought to use the lower half of M7788 because it's CUTE!! But I hate the bodice on 7788 and how the heck do you get into it?!?! The line drawing without the wrap shows a front zipper in the pants. So the pants zip up but the bodice is a true wrap?? If that's the case, I don't think I can actually combine these two...unless I move to a side zipper.

The back of 7728 on this view is wrong...the zipper does go through the waistband.

All other views show it correctly.

Burda 4/2014 skirt 'hacked' into a trench-style skirt in this cotton twill from Fabric Mart. This fabric is MUCH darker than I remember so this may move lower on the list.

Style Arc Autumn dress or S8014 from this awesome tencel twill from Treadle Yard Goods that is somewhere in hiding. Just trust me that it is awesome, okay??

1366 (l) or S1377 (r). I will :gasp: muslin both because I can see a top from this fabric getting a major workout in the wardrobe and I want it to be *right*. [I'm thinking I need to start muslin-ing all woven tops until I develop a sloper (borrrrrring). Funnily, fitting my lower half - including pants!! - is much, much, much easier.]

 

1366 is so popular but I'll muslin both. Although looking at the line drawings now, IDK about the band on the 1377. I'll be using this shingle woven fabric from Metro Textiles.

Baste+Gather Birkin Flare jeans in this midwash denim from Fabric Mart.

True Bias Lander pants in this striped denim from Mood. Will most certainly be making a muslin as I've seen so-so reviews on the crotch fit and this fabric was PRICEY.

True Bias Ogden in my beloved Kelly green silk charmeuse from Metro Textiles

I'd like to maybe copy this LOFT tank if I get around to it!

V1586 I have a couple contenders for fabric. I'll likely make it in a b&w print :) and I'll definitely be shortening it.

You may notice that really, aside from the first 3 items, all of these are able to easily transition into fall. I bought an amazing(!) cut of Ralph Lauren cotton twill in the most perfect shade of khaki to make a nice pair of shorts. I may get them cut...or that may be a project for next summer, we'll see how my sewing mojo goes. I expect my sewing to wane a little bit for now, but I'm okay with that.

Today when I got home I did a quick check of the few places I was potentially interested in for photos. Not too bad for 5 p.m. pics! Should be really nice mid-day...will test it out this weekend :)

wearing M6519 top and NL6530 skirt <3

My sewing room is getting closer!! I have to go vertical much moreso than before and need to hang a couple of things (like an IKEA Fintorp rail to get my basket of cutting implements off of my table). I still think I can knock out that New Look dress with the partially put together...yesterday I got home and just wanted to SEW! and couldn't.

How is your year shaping up? Are you on track with sewing plans and goals?