Sewing Plan and Fitting: New Look 6692

I had plans to refresh my loungewear wardrobe when a knitting friend invited me to shop her stash. She's long since retired and had a wonderful stash of nearly 100% natural fibers and I scored on wools and silks of all weights, colors, patterns and prints. Woohoo!!

I detoured from my detour and decided to make a summer dress that could transition to fall. I think the color and length allows it to be worn with sandals and when the air is a little crisp, with a cardigan, denim jacket, and booties. 

I am sewing view A in a floral rayon challis that has a mustard background and red, white, and blue in the flowers. 

New Look patterns work really well for me and don't require a lot of adjustments. I cut a size 14 and graded the back bodice to a 16 at the waist and cut a 16 skirt back. I shortened the bodice 1" through the back and on the side front, 1" at the side seam tapering to nothing at the princess seam. 

The pattern calls for 12 rows of elastic sewn into casings. I don't know if you've ever sewn more than 2 rows of elastic in a casing, but it gets progressively difficult. One, I just didn't want to do that. But also, WHY NOT JUST DO SHIRRING?! I cut my panel, shirred it, and it was a tiny bit smaller than the pattern piece, but the shirring is super stretch and it's fine. Worth noting that the casings were 1/2" wide, I shirred it at more like 3/8" and just kept making rows until I got to the bottom that's meant to be left plan. Then, you hit it with a shot of steam and watch it draw up. It's fun! haha! Speaking of stretchy shirring, I eliminated the zipper. I didn't find it necessary with that and the gathered skirt.

My fabric was really, really shifty and I kept having to re-find the grainline and wasted fabric. I didn't have enough for the sleeves and 3 panels for the lower flounce. But, the flounce is just a rectangle! It measured about 17.5" (cut on the fold), for a total of 52.5" folded of fabric. Well, my fabric was at least 58" wide so I just cut two 26" lengths on the fold. 

Current state, it needs side seams sewn, flounce hemmed, gathered and attached, and sleeves inserted. Final step will be to stitch the bodice lining to the skirt. 

I have NOT enjoyed sewing this pattern. It has been a real slog and I almost quit. Luckily, I tried it on as best I could with a partially constructed garment and it is REALLY cute. 

A Dozen Drafts: New Look 6600

I hate this dress.

I don't hate the pattern...or the brand, just the dress. 

This is a true wrap dress that would work well with a drapey linen or voile. This rayon challis-like fabric did not have enough structure. I was worried about something too firm with the fit of the skirt, but the drape of this fabric made every part of sewing it a horrible experience. 

I started with a size 16, 18 at the waist and hip. I made my half muslin and compared to the McCall's and Simplicity, the starting point was great! On the right, you'll notice I made a point of where I thought my shoulder was...but you'll see in the photos below that I was WRONG. My shoulder point is a good 3/4" away from where I thought it was on the form. This explains why the couple McCall's I made since getting the Beatrice were still wide in the shoulder. Huzzah!

Front:
1/4" armhole tuck
shortened 1" at waist

Back:
shortened 1" at waist
added 3/8" to neckline at shoulder
added 1/8" to shoulder at neck

(should have done the high round back adjustment)

I shortened the pattern 6 inches, ideal length for me would have been about 2" shorter. After stitching, I ended up taking in the side seams another 3/8". Typically with skirts, I cut a 16 front and 18 back. Also, I didn't use the facings and bound the armholes. I stitched a 1/4" guide for my bias tape (cut at 1 1/8") and then trimmed it down, turned in and topstitched.

I just couldn't get good pics, I was so over it. LOL!

Aside from my posture being worse than Lily's, it's cool to see  how the garments are the same 

on me and the form!

I really need to start adjusting for my low left shoulder.

I'm going to be so sad when these cord stops are all used up. 

They were a great addition to my stash! One of those one-off Fabric Mart finds.

I feel that the fitting process with this pattern demonstrated my ease working with New Look patterns in the past. I do feel that I should have draped the dart as it isn't quite right (same with the back skirt darts), so that's something to keep in mind. 

I'll continue to snag the NL patterns I'm interested in as they're a good fit for my body. 

some fabrics I pulled while organizing my sewing space

The mustard print and solid blue are woven, all others are knits

Fabric Mart | LA Finch x2 | SR Harris

LA Finch | Fabric Mart | SAS Fabrics | Fabric Mart

As mentioned in my abruptly ended wrap-up post, I have sewing mojo but am lacking energy. I cut out Vogue 1250 (an oldie but goodie!) and McCall's 8174 today in preparation for some sewing this weekend. I'm also hoping I get to a top from the yellow silk charmeuse I got at Fancy Tiger Crafts, as well as turning that yellow tie-dye into another nightgown using Burda 5/2016 (THIS nightgown is my absolute fave and it is now 6 years old...time for another). 

WIPs and Fitting and Stuff...

This has been a weird month. I feel like nothing has happened and yet, we're halfway through! It's currently snowing in Minneapolis. Meh. 

I ordered from LA Finch for the first time ever! The last time I was in Long Beach visiting the kids, I posted my trip to Mood and someone mentioned I should visit LA Finch, but, they were closed. All the days I've spent in Long Beach on my visits and I had no clue I was so close! My daughter and son-in-law's place is a 5 mile straight shot down Long Beach Blvd! Next time :)

I was drawn in by the 4.5 yard (3 cuts, 1.5 yards each) of the rayon twill plaids. I was hoping at least 2 of the fabrics would coordinate and, yay! I like the red and green together. I am going to make a mixed-print shirt in the fall. 

Then I saw the pink ribbed knit (after having just purchased the True Bias tank/dress pattern). So I snatched that up (it's a bit lighter weight than I'd hoped). The white knit with tonal stripes was a remnant, so I scooped that. The yellow challis I was on the fence about but it gets me close to the mustard color that I like, but not ON me. This is nicely in the middle and I plan to make New Look 6692 or Simplicity 9326:

Speaking of New Look...

My A Dozen Drafts project is in progress. I am making NL6600 and had very minimal fit changes to make. I haven't made a ton of NL patterns but I've generally been happy with them. This is the fit on my Beatrice, straight out of the envelope, pics from my IG stories:

A couple of things that I'll dive deeper into once I'm reviewing - I realized I've incorrectly identified my shoulder point on the form!! It makes so much sense on why my last two makes were still a little wide in the shoulder. I blamed McCall's giant shoulder, but I have it marked out about 3/4" further than it actually is. Again, why I still want to do an in-person class to draft a sloper, because it isn't readily apparent where certain markers are on the body. 

Specifically to this pattern, I should have lowered the bust point a bit but otherwise, it explains why I've generally been happy with the fit of NL patterns. I shortened the bodice an inch and it fits SO well through my back. Woot!

you can see in this pic that the bust dart is a little high

This fabric?! Oh my word. It is so difficult to work with. As a sewing friend said, it's a very sassy fabric! It won't listen!!! So while I'd planned on the print being vertical on the body, it was NOT working to go on the crossgrain so I gave up. This pattern takes surprisingly little fabric (caveat: sleeveless and shortened 6") so I have another cut that may work for a #2. 

Speaking of the Beatrice :) 

I still owe a review. I want to learn where *MY* markers are on it though. This dress was started during the pandemic (Burda 5/2019). I got it to the basting stage and bwahahaha! It did NOT fit. I folded it and put it away. 

Now, I have decided it isn't worth trying to make it work, but I will remake this dress 1) in a bigger size(!) and 2) with the necessary adjustments.

Shoulder is wrong:

While I commented that the back 'v' fit well...that's not true as the whole dress is too small and who knows how the back will fit in the right size.

maybe 2 sizes bigger? lololol!

ain't no butt room!

my waist point (twill tape) vs the pattern seam (my finger)

And we can again see the INCHESSSSSSssssssss of too smallness.

But my NL dress is working out well, so let's stick with that :-p

On the machine knitting front, I bought this Target cart to hold my Hague linker. It's fine but I hope I have the chance to get an actual stand. I'm going to a MK seminar next weekend and I may find one there. Otherwise, I'll eventually order one from Hague (in the UK), but I will have to be able to get an electric winder too to make the shipping worthwhile :-D So annoyed I didn't know they were available when I ordered the linking machine!

Thought I like the extra shelf options!!

And, I finished the cardigan!! I think it's about a size 5/6 so I made it with my friend's 4.5 year old in mind. I used the linker for all the seaming - the raglans, the band, and the side seams. The lavender yarn was actually a bit thick for the linker so I used the teal, I hope to find the perfect "linking yarn" that I can buy in a few colors (sort of like serger thread!). 

And I started a sweater for the youngest grandson. Not an exact match to big brother's but using the same yarn colors. 

I have ordered yarns from ColourMart (they specialize in luxury mill ends) because I can't keep being afraid to try! What's the worst that can happen? :) 

I leave you with this pic of the grandson who decided he wanted to go outside event though no one else wanted to, because it was 21 degrees. Can you spy him over by the shed? hahaha! 

Burda Mag 4/2018

I finished this shirt awhile ago and while I love the idea of it, I'm not sure how useful it'll be in my wardrobe. It has cool features with the radiating darts, back pleat and full sleeve. But IMO that limits it's versatility. 

I used a size 40 neckline and 42 for the rest. I also did a slash and spread on the lower back piece to add to the back hip. The fabric is a cotton sateen shirting from SR Harris in a bright pink (the pics of it on me are more accurate on the color).

I've said it before but, I love constructing shirts and jeans but they're not items I wear often. DOH! 

Baste! Baste! Baste!! :)

Look at that topstitching! So satisfying!!

There was a lot of extra fabric in the back waist (I didn't get a before pic). 

I did a quick fix which really helped. It was MUCH worse.

I took out as much as possible without throwing things too out of whack. 

Ended up removing about 3/4" total at center back. 

Like the last Burda shirt I made, the sleevehead is just too much. I am pretty sure I used the right sleeve size for the shirt. I do a 1" full bicep adjustment but that doesn't affect the length of the sleevehead. The fabric perhaps didn't like being eased...IDK. I redid the sleeves a couple times but it's just so much excess that I kept checking to make sure it wasn't a puff sleeve!

I do like the lower sleeve design. There's a horizontal seam on the sleeve and the lower is gathered into the cuff.

The darts are the other star of this shirt. They look really great! I used a 1/2" silver button from stash.

Nice pattern, nice shirt, Not sure how often it'll be worn. Darn it. 

My other WIP? Eek! It's only based at the sides here but I don't think I have the room necessary to fit the hip and thigh area. 

I was so confused and then realized the other 2 times I made this pattern I used ponte and a springy crepe suiting with quite a bit of mechanical stretch. This is a 100% wool, tightly woven suiting. 

So now that's officially a UFO. 

I then started a full sweater project for myself. I did a few swatches and hit stitch count exactly and was a bit short on row count. I didn't know how to adjust the increases and decreases if I adjusted the length so I just made it as is. It seems like it'll *just* finish at my high hip. We'll see! :)

I kept forgetting to block my pattern pieces. Every night I'd have a DOH! moment. Finally blocked the sleeves and the front and back are currently blocked out. I need to seam the raglan at front and one side of the back, knit the neckband, rehang the sweater (hence the blue waste yarn) and attach the neckband and sweater. Then, I'll sew up the other raglan seam and stitch the side seams + sleeve seam. 

Woohoo!!! 

I'm hoping for sew-jo. I miss sewing but can't get motivated. Wah. Maybe have to push out a TNT. We'll see!

October Wrap-Up and November Plans

Gah. It just occurred to me, IT'S NOVEMBER! Sigh. I was excited on Sunday because, new month! new week! Daylight saving!

 

But the month is off to a meh start and of course, there's the absolute anxiety of the general election and the results. 

 

This month, I sewed 3 items and 5.5 yards. I didn't buy any new fabric (I almost did! Surge Fabrics had some nice waffle knits!)

• Ottobre 5/2018 sweatshirt - 2 yards
• pink ponte from stash
• Burda 4/2018 shirt - 2 yards
• pink cotton shirting 
• buttons
• New Look 6326 skirt - 1.5 yards (WIP)
  
• wool suiting and pongee lining
• zipper, buckles

Favorites: Meh. I think my general mood has zapped my sewing energy. Nothing is grabbing me right now.

 

Fails: The sweatshirt. I hate the color. I knew I hated the color, but I guess it was more of a wearable muslin because I figured I could still wear it around the house for lounging. It isn't wearable 1) because I abhor the color and 2) because I just haven't worked out Ottobre's fit on me yet and it fits weirdly.

 

Accomplishments: Meh. LOL! The shirt is nicely sewn and the skirt is coming along.

 

I'd be more excited about this skirt if I knew I'd be wearing it when it was finished :-p

I really wanted to muslin that jacket and jeans for my husband but didn't get around to it. Partially because my hand has been bothering me a lot lately. 

November? IDK. I won't make too many plans because who knows where my mental state will take me. But, here's a few recent screenshots of RTW that caught my eye. If I do sew, it'll probably be some warm/snuggly stuff, even if I don't really need clothes right now. 

I saw this "maxi hoodie" by Nike and thought it was cool, but then not so sure about procuring a long zipper that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. The shorter hoodie is kind of the alternative...in the same vein as those, this maxi dress with the stripes down the side is cool! That could be a fun project. I've also rewatched Power lately and one of the main characters, Tasha (Naturi Naughton) was wearing this raglan, colorblocked bomber and I thought it was cute so I might copy it. We'll see!! And, those jeans are just fun!!! 

I did work up a swatch for a sweater - I'm going to aim for a simple round-neck just to up my machine knitting confidence. And again, even if it isn't great, it'll be something I can tool around the house in.

This green ruler is a quick, instant way to check gauge. I was pretty aggravated that it was like $12 but, I like not counting stitches!

A swatch for a standard gauge machine means knitting 40 stitches by 60 rows and the ruler "counts them" instantly! So here, by lining the edge up with the left marker, we see that I am just under 27 stitches. The other side of the ruler has the row measurement.

Using waste yarn at the beginning and end is your marker for the rows and about midway through, you mark the stitch just outside of the 20th for easy markers for the stitches. It's a pretty slick process! Here, my aim is 29 stitches so I'd have to dial back the tension a bit. 

So, I suppose my plan for the month is to finish my skirt, knit a sweater, and stay healthy!

No-Go On the Mojo

I spent 2 weeks out in California with my daughter and son-in-law, and 12 glorious days in new grandma land. I was so glad that I was able to help out in those early days but it also meant NO sleep. It took me a long time to get my energy back! I know people have babies at 40 but goodness gracious I cannot imagine doing the sleeplessness now! Hahaha!

Couple that with not going into the office (most of my sewing is work wear) and fall breezing right by...meh. Oh, and that?! When I got back, I put away lots of summer stuff but not everything. On 10/9 it was 79F for a high. On Sunday, 10/18, the temp was 35F and it hasn't gotten above that since. BLERGH!

So I finally just went in the sewing room and got started on a project. Burda 4/2018 has been on the to-sew list for awhile. It's so interesting!! It's done and just needs photos. I will have to get them this weekend because this fabric practically glows with my phone.

Beth over at SunnygalStudio has made a couple iterations of this too!

I chose it 1) the pattern 2) nice, stable fabric 3) slightly more involved project. And I like it! And it fits nicely! But it didn't spark the mojo. 

So now I'm sewing a skirt. I was going to make another version of Burda 2/2020 but with all the seams, wasn't sure I had enough fabric for matching stripes. But I knew I had way more fabric than for just a straight skirt. Then I found these buckles in stash and got a little more excited. So I cut another NL6326

mock wrap skirt. Here's a prior version with the buckles:

I think this'll be a fun project and will "age" well in the wardrobe, even if it doesn't get much wear this winter. I'll be lining it in a black pongee.

I cut the waistband on the bias:

Lastly, mom and dad are doing well and adjusting to parenthood. The little one is doing EXCELLENTLY...still shunning clothing! :)

Remakes: B6183 and NL6150

I have intended on returning to Butterick 6183 for awhile. I made a couple versions and wore them until they died or didn't fit anymore. The 3rd version was made with bad fabric.

As mentioned in a prior post, I went to SR Harris to look for black fabric to use for the cuffs of my lace hoodie and found this scrap. I got home and performed a burn test and it was clearly cotton plus something else and I'm fairly certain that something else is silk. I took the completed top with me to a meetup and a couple of people agreed. SCORE! I paid $4 for this remnant and eeked out this top and my hoodie's cuffs. YAY!

I was so excited to get started and then remembered that this pattern had cup sizing and my formerly adjusted pattern wouldn't work anymore. Grrr! LOL!

I cut it out in a 14 B-cup and added width at the back hemline for my butt. I undid my swayback adjustment but now I'm realizing I do need it. The hem is level with the fabric still pooling around the back waist. I also did a 1.5" full bicep adjustment. I ended up basting the whole dang thing (sans sleeves) before sewing it. I'm realizing I need a forward shoulder adjustment, which I rigged up on this version by adjusting the seam allowance (tapering to nothing at the neck). 

I had a tough time getting these sleeves inserted. The fabric wasn't too thrilled to be eased. I redid them a couple of times then gave up.

I did not have enough fabric for facings and didn't have a nice black fabric that would work for bias binding so I used an off white fabric. I understitched it too just to be sure it wouldn't show at all.

The bustline fits so nicely! The zipper was pulled from the enormous stash. I believe I got these from SR Harris many moons ago. The beaded trim was purchased on a trip to Kokoon Fashion last year.

It's such a nice top that just feels special <3

New Look 6150 was one of the first patterns I ever made back in 2013! I just loved those sleeves!  I am 100% into the statement sleeve trend and knew I'd sew this up soon. I found myself with some time and a cut of wool jersey that I'd forgotten about.

I started sewing in January 2013 and sewed this top in February 2013. When I pulled out in 2020, I had a WHAT THE HECK?! moment looking at the pattern pieces. The cut lines were janky! LOL! Some parts were cut at a 14 and some at a 16 but I don't think it was on purpose.

So I cleaned up my cuts and cut it in a size 14 doing a slash and spread to add to the hip. I also ended up sewing the cb seam at 1/4". This wool jersey must not have any lycra because it pretty much does not stretch and is a bit snug across the back. I didn't do a bicep adjustment because the sleeves are pretty large. I figured I'd sew the seam allowance smaller, but didn't need to.

Oh another thing? My neckbinding pattern piece and elastic guide for the sleeve was *poof* gone. A sewing friend got me the measurements but by then I'd guessed on the sleeve elastic. I was a little short :) so they aren't as gathered as they should be I think it's fine though! 

I love the sleeves! I think the pattern doesn't fit me well above the bust. I have to explore this stuff from a new perspective and it's throwing me!

I recently wore a version of B6621 and when I'd rest, I'd notice the fabric fold above the bust. The NL6150 top does the same thing:

pre and post reduction

Totally need to focus on the bodice sloper. Soon...soon!

Also, this version of Nl6150 was cut out in May 2013 and sewn together. Then it sat, waiting for bindings and a hem. Every time I've cleaned out my (small) UFO basket, I've kept this top. At some point, I added the bindings (which really the neckline has a facing, not a binding).

The other day, I pulled it out and hemmed it! So it's finally done almost 7 years later!!! LOL! I've always loved the print and could never get rid of it.

Print up close:

Lastly, I've had 2 knitting lessons so far and it's going great! This second lesson I learned to operate the machine's electronics and made a dishcloth during the lesson. I now have 8 of them! LOL! They measure about 12x16" coming off the machine but it's 100% cotton and will shrink (more length than width).

They are so fun and QUICK to knit! Each one takes about 20 minutes (took 15 with her! lol!).

I was supposed to make 3 more then schedule my next lesson. She gave me 5 different cones of yarn and I have a feeling there's going to be dozens of these things! :-D

Next 2 lessons we will make a sweater for a kid. So exciting!!