Burda 1/2019 #116

I have several Ogden camis and it's such a great pattern but I knew that I wanted something different for this piece of Atelier Brunette viscose challis (colorway is Moonstone). I poked around the pattern collection and the internet quite a bit but, Burda to the rescue (as per usual)! 

I just could not get the color to pick up correctly taking the pics solo with my phone!!

This is a petite pattern but I only needed to adjust the waist because I'm a bit short from shoulder to bust anyway. I used a 40 for the neckline and a 42 for the rest. I'm not wearing a bra here (yay! reduction!!) but I did try it on with a bra. The back was fine (we all know that the band should sit below the shoulder blades, right?) but the front sits low, I'm not sure what the "right" bra would be for this style top.

I ended up shortening the straps about 1.25", topstitching them in back and hand sewing them in front. 

I'm not a purist y'all. I will sew french seams when french seams need to be sewn...I just don't care that much. LOL!!! So serger seams it is. I used a mix of dark grey and blue since I didn’t have a match. 

The pattern is cut on the bias but includes half pattern pieces. Be a good sewer and make full pattern pieces :-p I'm not so I cut one half, mark the center line at top and bottom, flip the pattern piece and cut the other side. 

You can see in the pic above that the bodice lining has a dart...and in the pic below that the main piece has pleats. The bodice and lining are sewn together at the neckline and armhole and then attached as one to the lower bodice. The side seams are sewn, then the back facing folded over. I tacked it down at the side seams by hand. 

I didn't do a *great* job matching the font at the center. If I make it again I'll baste by hand and sew both sides in one pass. Also, I accidentally pressed the pleats the wrong way and they just did not want to go back. WAHHH! We'll see how it goes the first time I wash it.

The upper part here is the back facing and I did a rolled hem on that piece. On the hem, I tried the Banroll method where you use the little comb and stitch and turn and stitch and meh. It's a little more stable than the rolled hem on this delicate fabric but it's cumbersome and I don't know the situation in which I'd say it's preferred. YMMV. 

I'm working on seaming up my sweater...may take me a bit. but it's coming!! 

Remakes: B6378 & S2369

As part of my build-a new-work-wardrobe plan, I wanted to get a few things sewn up because I have a LOT of video calls and have been bumming it most of quarantine. 

And you know my thoughts... when you need new things, in short order, turn to TNTs! I’ve made both of these several times and aside from removing my FBA on Butterick 6378, there are no material changes. 

The top is made from a rayon challis that I picked up from Stonemountain & Daughter when I visited San Francisco. I LOVE this fabric! The color scheme is so me; it’s very versatile and works with tons of bottoms in my wardrobe. 

My main adjustment to this pattern now is the 1” bicep adjustment and using whatever elastic I have on hand in the sleeves :) This time it was 3/8”. And I find such joy in the neatly finished binding! So glad my hands cooperated with me.

LOVE. LOVE. LOVE this top!!!

This version of Simplicity 2369 was made from a cotton jersey that I got from Mood. I like the fabric, I like the color, I'm not sure it was a great match for this pattern. I may stash this one away until spring. 

It's a little snug though I basted before sewing! (thanks pandemic), the color is kind of washed out on me, and I didn't like it with any of my boots. So maybe it'll fare better in the warmer months with heels/sandals. 

I also sewed this one by machine, serging after I sewed. I just find cotton knits to be thick even when they're lightweight and knew it would turn out better constructed on the sewing machine. 

The only other change from prior versions was using the buckle - hate it. I have decent scraps of this fabric and may just cut another tie and swap that out. It feels a bit outdated for me...we'll see!

tried here with a more casual boot and jean jacket. Eh. it's fine. 

Love the dress, I just don't think it's working for winter. 

Aaaaaaaand... After a wee-bit of consternation, I bought a new serger! 

For $1,000 I want a scrap catcher thingy! 
(those were out of stock too and my name is on the list. sigh.)

It's my new-job-gift to myself. It's a YAY! Our finances don't completely revolve around kids anymore! gift to myself. I was really going to go with the Juki MO-654DE; it's a really great machine. It is powerful and a lot of machine at the ($400) price point. 

I've been able to sew on Brother, Juki, Babylock, Bernina, Husqvarna-Viking sergers. Never tried a Janome or Pfaff (still want a Pfaff machine :drool:). I liked the Babylock - of course! My biggest ask was auto-tension - I KNOW everyone loves the air-threading and it IS cool! But I've never had issues with threading the serger. Before I bought this one, I timed myself (hey, I am a scientist at heart, everything is an experiment!) on my 1034D. 92 seconds. That's how long it took me from start to finish. It just wasn't a big factor for me in choosing a serger. 

After some research, I also decided the auto-tension was a nice-to-have. I just have to get to know my serger. I am on point about 80% of the time with my Brother. I've had it for so long (~8 years!), I've sewn everything on it, and I can judge the adjustments based on the fabric itself as I'm handling it. Like I said, most of the time, I'm spot on. Occasionally, I have to make additional adjustments after sewing a sample.

I tend to RESEARRRRRRRRRCHHHHHHHHH. Then, when I'm ready to buy, I'm READY. No doubts, both feet in. I wasn't fully ready but the pandemic has caused 1) some price gouging and 2) scarcity. I first visited the Babylock dealer in the summer, and they were running 6 weeks out for machines. Last Friday, she called and told me she had a Celebrate and can put my name on it and I said, YES! Then, I didn't call to finalize the order on Saturday because I didn't feel certain. But on Monday, I decided what the heck! Go for it! There's no rules! I can buy a different serger down the line if I choose! I can upgrade to another Babylock down the line if I choose!! 

I got it set-up and threaded, and ran some recent fabrics through it. I have a M6886 on my to-sew list and it'll be the Celebrate's maiden project! :-D

Hello Stitch Studio Class Review

I have been looking forward to this class ever since the class was held last year! I believe it was last spring and between the trip for SewCamp and a trip to Puerto Rico, I just couldn’t swing it. The *moment* registration opened this time, I was THERE! :)

Plus, neither my husband nor me had ever been to the Bay Area before so we decided to make a long weekend of it. 

My visit started with a trip to Stonemountain & Daughter. It's an adorable shop with a pretty impressive collection of fabrics for its size.

Knit binding in ALLLLL the colors!!! 

JOY! :-P

I lucked up on a 20% off rayon sale and the class included a 20% off coupon (didn't apply to the sale items). I picked up 3 cuts of fabric.

An Atelier Brunette viscose for an Ogden cami (at $25/yd full price I only picked up 1 yard!). 

A rayon challis in a black/grey leopard print. 

A rib knit in this mushroom color. I've wanted a bodycon midi dress with a snap placket for awhile. The weight and color of this fabric should work for fall and spring!

I also picked up a few yards of weft fusible interfacing, lightweight knit fusible interfacing, a grab bag of notions and a "Thanks, I made it!" pin :-D

The class was scheduled for 18 hours total: 4 hours Friday, 7 hours Saturday and Sunday. If you’ve made a tailored jacket or coat before, you know that it is not an <18 hour project! So I didn’t expect to complete the jacket in class and really looked forward to learning new things. 

Hello Stitch also offers longarm quilting services and we all had these adorable handmade nametags.

Now, y’all know how much I like to go fast. I intended to take full advantage of Beth’s jacket making skills and soak up all I could. But...

I am a migraine sufferer. I’ve traveled 3 weekends in a row - 8/30-9/2, 9/7-9/9 and now 9/12-9/16. I’ve had a pretty low-grade headache this entire time and missed most of work on 9/9 due to migraine. When we arrived in San Francisco on Thursday, I was SO OUT OF IT. I was in pain and nauseous but tried to power through. I woke up on Friday feeling horrible and was near tears because I wasn't sure I'd make it to class. Well, I did but boy was it rough going. It did not help that it was near 100 degrees in the Bay area! At one point, I was sure I was going to pass out! When I showed up Saturday feeling mildly better, I was shocked by how little I’d gotten done the day before. 

Day 1 we talked about the patterns - most of the class used the Closet Case Jasika blazer. If you read here regularly, you know I’ve sworn off sewing anything for my upper body from this pattern company. I used V9099, and 2 other sewers used patterns other than the Jasika. We did tissue fitting (some people had made muslins ahead of class) and went off to cut. Also, Beth gifted us all with silk organza press cloths. YAY!

Day 1 I finished with:

Fitted pattern (I cut my pattern pieces out at home)

Completely cut out fashion fabric

Day 2 I arrived with a mild headache but felt much less woozy and nauseous. Yay! This day was all about the welts for me. I got most of my pattern pieces interfaced and got my welt pockets inserted.

:drool:

WAIIIIITTTT

The studio has one of those boiler steam irons (there was one at Sew Camp too) and I just have to have one. HAVE TO!!! Fusing everything was a long, hot job, but it makes all the difference in the finished product. 

We had a break for lunch, chatted and got to know each other better, and got some handy demonstrations on marking fabric and getting perfect lapels.

Day 2 I finished with:

Everything but the sleeves interfaced 

Front sewn to side panel

Completed exterior pockets (pocket bags weren’t sewn)

Sewn center back seam

Sewn shoulder seams

This was taken first thing Sunday morning. Everyone's fabric was SO, SO gorgeous.

Day 3 I felt so much better!! I was so ready to go. I knew I needed to fuse interfacing to my sleeves and prep the facing. We'd be sewing the collars/lapels this day.

And then it happened...I accidentally interfaced the right side of one of my sleeves. I ALMOST STARTED CRYING. I was fairly certain I didn't have enough fabric to recut but I just eeked it out. And I triple checked before interfacing :-p

Once I got past that hurdle, I was on my way. The tips and tricks we learned made the class worth it! Everyone's collar and lapels went in and turned out perfectly. Absolutely perfect!

Day 3, we discussed lining insertion and I have become a convert to hand sewing the lining in. I HAVE bagged a lining successfully, but I would prefer the control of hand sewing.  I left with a completed body and sleeves that were ready to sew.

The state of my jacket after the class (once I was back home).

There is a shoulder pad in there and I have the seam allowance tucked under. 

Isn't it awesome?!?! 

We'd made some adjustments to my sleeves -- the finished bicep on the size 14 was 14 3/4" and that is my exact bicep measurement so we added quite a bit.

I basted the seams on my sleeve and tweaked the fit, then basted it into the armhole to ensure I didn't overdo it. I will tell ya, I probably would have never done all this before. I totally will baste a side seam to check fit...but all this tweaking on the sleeve? I'd never have done it. It fits SO WELL! Woot woot!!

I tweaked the vertical sleeve seams a lot so I plan to mark the new seam line, mark the new seam allowance, and trim off any excess...then cut the other sleeve and lining from these "new" pattern pieces.

My plan is to get it finished and ready to sew the lining in and I can work on that once I'm feeling up to it after surgery.

We also had a ton of fun exploring San Francisco, Oakland, and Berkley. 

Visiting my husband's cousin at work

More luck! Skies were nice and clear and we were able to visit The Golden Gate bridge 

I can hold that bridge in my tiny hands! :-D

Sunset at the Golden Gate strait

Visit to Fisherman's Wharf

And then a serious delay out of SFO. I've been up for about 30 hours with a ~2 hour nap on the plane. Eesh!

It was a whirlwind weekend full of fun and sewing and food and I can't wait to do it again! :)