Burda 4/2019 - More than a year later!

I sewed this jacket April of 2020, and then, there was no need for it. I've been getting a lot of usage from it this spring, and figured I'd better write a review while I have SOME of the details still pinging around in my brain. 

I've sewn 5 or 6 garments from the 4/2019 issue - it is really a winner! I wanted a casual jacket in a black that had some interesting details. It took me awhile to settle but this jacket has such great details while still being relatively simple in construction. And, the modeled pic really sold me. 

I used a size 42 and added an extra inch to the back hip via a slash and spread. I can't remember now if I made any adjustments in sewing seam allowances smaller or larger - sorry. But, I will say that a 42 bust and waist and 44 hip is typical for me with Burda patterns! 

I purchased this black cotton twill from Mood last March for about $25 for the 2.5 yard cut. I'd previously ordered swatches of black cotton twill and then got sucked in by a Rag & Bone sale. DOH! This fabric was much stiffer than the one I originally settled on, and it attracts so much lint. Sighhhhh. I washed it a couple times and have washed the jacket. It'll soften up eventually I suppose. 

Ultimately, I really enjoyed sewing this. Topstitching was such a breeze on this fabric! 

Since the pattern contained a collar stand, I decided to add a throat latch of sorts, purely for decorative reasons. There's no way I'll ever buckle this, LOL! But it was a fun detail to include. I believe the storm flap is lined with pongee poly lining, the remainder of the jacket is unlined, with the seams serged.

lint. lint. more lint.

I used the pocket from Burda 2/2016 #127 (a plus sized jacket pattern). It is essentially a really long rectangle with a soft fold at the top. I used packaged bias tape for the strap detail - I ironed it flat (the ironed side is on the inside since it was tough to really get that crease out), topstitched it, and used D-rings to finish it off. 

Idk what that white stuff is so just look at my top stitching!

I am a huge fan of three-quarter length sleeves, so these were right up my alley. The button and tab are decorative. 

Speaking of buttons! Do you recall when Fabric Mart had all of those notions from Milly and other buttons and stuff on the site? I paid $0.53 for 20 buttons! SCORE! The buttonhole required was too large for my Singer Quantum Stylist 9985 but, I don't remember how I solved it. I know I performed some type of workaround...and skipped the not-necessary buttonholes on the tabs here. 

Like many other things, it fits a little more snug now, but I've been wearing it non-stop this spring!

I'm still looking for larger D-rings for the belt. If I'd planned ahead, I could have made the belt a little narrower to accommodate what I had on hand. 

I still have ALL of the same WIPs as I did in my last post (are they UFOs now??), but I did sew both M7465 and B6621 as mentioned, along with two versions of a newer pattern, S9273. Hey, its just how things go around here! I did a Live on Instagram with Cecily of Sew Creative Lounge and the topic of my erratic sewing came up :-p Give it a listen if you're into that sort of thing! 

B6621 - since completed

I've been mostly participating in Me Made May but not posting regularly. Here are a few faves!

S9273 top worn for a trip to Gale Woods Farm in Minnetrista, MN, and a virtual graduation party

M6964 tee worn for a 10 mile e-bike ride around Hastings, MN 

Burda 1/2021 cardigan/jacket just because it's CUTE

S9011 dress worn for Mother's Day
Burda 1/2021 top worn for an interview

Burda 1/2021 because it is truly one of my most favorite garments made recently and I LOVE it!

(Yes, Burda 1/2021 over and over! There are still garments I need to make from that issue!)

I have a few posts scheduled (YAY!) to review:
Burda 5/2020 silk top

S9273 tees

B6621 and M7465 dresses

And before we know it, it'll be June (HOW?!)! More later!

Remakes: B6378 & S2369

As part of my build-a new-work-wardrobe plan, I wanted to get a few things sewn up because I have a LOT of video calls and have been bumming it most of quarantine. 

And you know my thoughts... when you need new things, in short order, turn to TNTs! I’ve made both of these several times and aside from removing my FBA on Butterick 6378, there are no material changes. 

The top is made from a rayon challis that I picked up from Stonemountain & Daughter when I visited San Francisco. I LOVE this fabric! The color scheme is so me; it’s very versatile and works with tons of bottoms in my wardrobe. 

My main adjustment to this pattern now is the 1” bicep adjustment and using whatever elastic I have on hand in the sleeves :) This time it was 3/8”. And I find such joy in the neatly finished binding! So glad my hands cooperated with me.

LOVE. LOVE. LOVE this top!!!

This version of Simplicity 2369 was made from a cotton jersey that I got from Mood. I like the fabric, I like the color, I'm not sure it was a great match for this pattern. I may stash this one away until spring. 

It's a little snug though I basted before sewing! (thanks pandemic), the color is kind of washed out on me, and I didn't like it with any of my boots. So maybe it'll fare better in the warmer months with heels/sandals. 

I also sewed this one by machine, serging after I sewed. I just find cotton knits to be thick even when they're lightweight and knew it would turn out better constructed on the sewing machine. 

The only other change from prior versions was using the buckle - hate it. I have decent scraps of this fabric and may just cut another tie and swap that out. It feels a bit outdated for me...we'll see!

tried here with a more casual boot and jean jacket. Eh. it's fine. 

Love the dress, I just don't think it's working for winter. 

Aaaaaaaand... After a wee-bit of consternation, I bought a new serger! 

For $1,000 I want a scrap catcher thingy! 
(those were out of stock too and my name is on the list. sigh.)

It's my new-job-gift to myself. It's a YAY! Our finances don't completely revolve around kids anymore! gift to myself. I was really going to go with the Juki MO-654DE; it's a really great machine. It is powerful and a lot of machine at the ($400) price point. 

I've been able to sew on Brother, Juki, Babylock, Bernina, Husqvarna-Viking sergers. Never tried a Janome or Pfaff (still want a Pfaff machine :drool:). I liked the Babylock - of course! My biggest ask was auto-tension - I KNOW everyone loves the air-threading and it IS cool! But I've never had issues with threading the serger. Before I bought this one, I timed myself (hey, I am a scientist at heart, everything is an experiment!) on my 1034D. 92 seconds. That's how long it took me from start to finish. It just wasn't a big factor for me in choosing a serger. 

After some research, I also decided the auto-tension was a nice-to-have. I just have to get to know my serger. I am on point about 80% of the time with my Brother. I've had it for so long (~8 years!), I've sewn everything on it, and I can judge the adjustments based on the fabric itself as I'm handling it. Like I said, most of the time, I'm spot on. Occasionally, I have to make additional adjustments after sewing a sample.

I tend to RESEARRRRRRRRRCHHHHHHHHH. Then, when I'm ready to buy, I'm READY. No doubts, both feet in. I wasn't fully ready but the pandemic has caused 1) some price gouging and 2) scarcity. I first visited the Babylock dealer in the summer, and they were running 6 weeks out for machines. Last Friday, she called and told me she had a Celebrate and can put my name on it and I said, YES! Then, I didn't call to finalize the order on Saturday because I didn't feel certain. But on Monday, I decided what the heck! Go for it! There's no rules! I can buy a different serger down the line if I choose! I can upgrade to another Babylock down the line if I choose!! 

I got it set-up and threaded, and ran some recent fabrics through it. I have a M6886 on my to-sew list and it'll be the Celebrate's maiden project! :-D

Simplicity 8389 Shorts; Contest Sewing

I was going to review the Simplicity dress next but the shorts were finished and I am seriously loving them and so they jumped the review queue!

I did not realize this pattern was 2 years old! I can't believe I've been saying "I'm going to make those" all this time! Eek!

I used my normal size 18 -- don't be tempted to size down because of the ease!! You don't want your pleats pulling and straining. I adjusted the pattern with my fishbowl the same as I did with the SA Clare muslin here. 

My butt just needs more room!! When I laid the front and back inseam together, the space in between was SO narrow! I wish I'd taken a before pic! 

Back piece:

Minor quibble, the markings for the pocket and front pattern piece don't line up. I did slash and overlap to reduce front length but that didn't affect the placement of the notch. 

Aside from the crotch length adjustment, I didn't make any other changes. Well...I did not have 1 1/4" elastic in stash. I topstitched at 3/8" from the top and used 3/4" elastic. It makes it gather a little differently and next time, I'll be sure to have the right elastic on hand.

I can't believe I waited so long to make this pattern! I actually bought this fabric to sew the other view, the tapered leg. And luckily, I gambled on the fabric being awesome and ordered 4.5 yards. YAY! So I should be able to make the pants and stash the rest for a skirt.

Do you see this blind hem? DO YOU SEE IT!?!? Woot woot!

Paired with my TNT shirt, Burda 7136 in chambray. 

Listen, I LOVE THEM. 

Posting this zoomed in pic to show the fit. The pleats hang so nicely!! And while the protrusion of my butt (hahaha) is still a tad too much compared to the pattern but otherwise, they fall so nicely, no hanging up on the butt, in the inner thigh, none of that!

I have a navy brussels washer linen that I picked up in Nashville from Craft South that I may use for the next version. 

These shorts were my "C" garment for the PR Endless Combinations contest as was the hoodie reviewed here. I also sewed a dress and a top so I have pics ready for my next couple blog posts! Woohoo!

Burda Magazine 04/2019 #113

I think this April issue is pretty freaking awesome and this skirt is a STANDOUT! It's an A-line but has such fantastic details that totally elevate it.

When two of my sewing faves sewed it, I knew I was IN. Beth's version and YSG's were both done in denim. And, I wanted a denim one! But I'd bought this bright kelly green cotton twill for a skirt and knew this pattern's details + this fabric would = LOVE!

Now, this skirt has a saga. All user created though so if you're into this pattern, sew it! Now! :)

I cut a size 42 which is normal for me with Burda. With skirts, I've been using a 16/42 front and 18/44 back for awhile but the last couple skirts I made were a bit big so I opted to go a straight 42. I did a 1" full bottom adjustment *park this* and was on my way. The pattern calls for 1.5 yards, which I had, but my fabric was only 52" wide. *park this too*.  

So let's just get the major mistake out there.

Wait, can I just say, I love topstitching!! I don't wear jeans often but it's one of the reasons I enjoy making them :) I used a thread that was *just* lighter than the fabric. I used a topstitching needle and doubled thread. YSG mentioned paying attention to the directions so for once in my life, I actually did so :-p

Since the twill looks the same on both sides, I used tape to mark the wrong side after cutting. But, that whole 1.5 yards of 52" fabric meant that I had to 'fussy-cut'.  I went to interface my zipper area (which I always do with invisible zippers), And realized I'd interfaced the RIGHT SIDE of the fabric. I panicked, I Googled, and I was actually able to remove most of it! But now I'm looking at my pattern pieces so utterly confused...turns out, I did the full butt adjustment wrong! I added the wedge to the side seam vs at center back. So that entire pattern piece was just WRONG. It was wrong. It made the pattern pieces unusable. The only fabric I had left was the fabric to cut the belt and facings (I'd saved the facings for last because I knew I could use an alternate fabric if needed).

I had to retrace the pattern piece and do the proper adjustment. Then I just barely found a large enough section to cut new back pieces. It was SO close and I thought I'd made it. And then...

There were several missing chunks. Doh!

And a serious 'make it work' moment with my zipper. Whew!

I ended up using the 'bad' backs for the belt and I found chunks to use for my facings. I had to do 3/8" side seams and had chunks missing out of the lower seam allowance, which thankfully, doesn't matter much.

I thought that pocket bag was so cute and pretty much worked on that first. I was using doubled thread for topstitching, right? I accidentally topstitched the wrong side. There was some other weird mistake with this bag but I don't remember now.

Oh! Aaaaaaaaaand I forgot to leave an opening in CF even though I had the warning to pay attention. DOH! I had already topstitched the seam but no worries. I ended up cutting open the slit and doing bar-tacking on either end to ensure it was secure. Whew.

I had major difficulties sewing the pockets in after the seams were sewn.  I'm not sure why it was handled that way but also get that I was just having a hard time with this pattern. I angled the end of the belt and topstitched it, but it was "backwards" once the belt was in the D-ring. (sheesh).

I was off work that Monday and worked on this skirt on and off ALL DAY. And still had hours of work to do on the other days I worked on it. It was just never ending.

But it's so perfect! It's so bright! It fits so well!!!!! And the pocket bag is ADORABLE! I have a piece of red denim that I think will have a turn with this pattern this fall :)

I thought I had more up-close pics but didn't. And I put my summer stuff away this weekend. 

This post was written back in July when I sewed the pattern. I never got pics when wearing it and took photos for the blog this past week. Err, it's a little too snug now. LOL!!! I assume once I'm cleared to return to activity I'll drop the extra few I've put on. :-p 

I have been low on sew-jo. I did get the top from M7812 finished. But I also have a ton of other stuff I need to finish. I realized today what my hold up was!

• I have to finish hand sewing the binding on my mom's quilt. I'm just over halfway done. 
• I have to finish my jacket from the tailoring class that requires hand sewing (I chose not to bag the lining).
• I have to hem the skirt I made for my Minerva post.

I don't mind hand sewing but I just can't do a ton of hand sewing back to back. I need to just buckle down and focus on finishing up one thing at a time.

But then, when the mojo returned, I wanted to SEW ALL THE THINGS!

There's a lot of stuff I want to make but I realized that I don't have a pair of plain, straight leg jeans in a dark wash. I started cutting out a new pair of the Style Arc Sandra this weekend. I want to sew the Claryville jeans by Workroom Social but didn't feel like tracing, cutting it out, doing a muslin. Blergh. Hopefully I'll get them done some time this winter. I like the look of the pattern.

Vogue 1501 and Kommatia Patterns Relaxed Tee

Vogue 1501 is a Rachel Comey design that was pretty popular when it was first released. The dress version is super cool (though I can do without the shoulder pads!) but the skirt!!

When I made the dress, I tried the skirt on mid-way and was sold. I sewed a skirt from the same fabric is the dress immediately after then made a yellow version. When I decided this crepe from Mood needed to become a full skirt, V1501 was the immediate choice. 

This fabric! Swoon! It's a polyester crepe and with a little steam and a clapper, it takes a press pretty decently. To be a poly fabric, it handled very nicely and the print is beautifully vibrant. I would definitely recommend it!

Same as previous versions, I cut a size 18 and skipped the french seaming on the pockets. Be sure to take the time to baste the pleats!! 

And then, I got a bit ahead of myself. I cut the backs out and went right ahead and insert the zipper. Once it was time to add the waistband I had a ruh-roh! moment. 

I improvised and added an extension and a button. It isn't perfect but it works!

Aside from that, everything is finished nicely :-D

Skirt is pictured with the Kommatia patterns relaxed tee. I scored 7 patterns from the Makerist during a $2 sale. Then I had them all printed as copyshop patterns. I measured the tee before I even looked at the size chart and decided on a size medium - the chart confirms.

Then I sewed up a muslin 

The top was riding up on the hips so I sliced the side seams, as seen. On the paper pattern, I did a slash and spread on the front pattern piece and added 1/2"; on the back, 3/4". This is an extra 2.5" in the hip! Oy!  But again, as you can see, if I had gone up a size, that would have resulted in a poor fit everywhere else. 

Fabric is a sandwashed poly/Modal jersey from Cali Fabrics. I almost blew up my fast when I got this fabric and washed it up! Very nice for knit basics!

It does still have a little too much back length even though I did a cheater swayback adjustment and I could use an FBA. But also, it's a tee. I don't get too worked up at times on those types of fit issues on tees/other simple garments.

Things I like - it has a nice silhouette (I forgot to take a pic untucked, but the muslin shows it) and the rolled cuff sleeves are cute (wrong side of fabric will show).

Things I do not like - The excess fabric in the back sleeve. I'm not quite sure what to do to correct it. Also, the neck binding. It's overly complicated. However, Barbara Emodi who blogs at Sewing on the Edge *just* did a tutorial for crossover neckband and it makes SO much sense! I wish I'd seen this first but will definitely do it this way next time. Also, the neckband in the pattern is 1 to 1 but Barbara mentions needing to stretch the back - yes. Do this. Mine sits away from my neck so I'll shorten it through the center back next time. 

I did small zigzag stitching on the sleeve cuffs vs actual bartacks.

I've applied for a board member position with a local non profit organization and wore this outfit for the interview :-D

Oh, and I know you've seen that new Vogue collection. Did you swoon? Not much for you?

I, somehow both shamelessly and shamefully, added 7 to the stash! :-p

Summer Sewing Plans (and miscellany)

I have concrete sewing plans for summer!

As I've mentioned before, I never do "RTW fasts" because I know I will find some cute thing I want or get in a rut of needing things and knowing I don't have time to sew it all. I found some fantastic tops at LOFT last week so I've tweaked my list. It's still SUPER large (haha!) but I've tried to make it a nice mix of things I've made before but still adding things I want in the wardrobe.

some RTW inspiration I'd collected

This weekend, I cut out NL6560 and cutting out paper patterns is exhausting!! I decided (assume) that the reason is, I am accustomed to cutting fabric out in session but usually cut patterns in one go. It took me over 45 minutes to cut out this pattern with 6 pieces! (I didn't even cut the belt!) Eesh.

Tops: Since I bought a few new items, I need fewer tops than I originally had on the list. 

1. NL6560 (which, WAH!!! is a reissue of Simplicity 4125 that I already own) top in chambray
2. M7601 in a soft black & white diagonal striped georgette
3. M7251 in a coral challis

Skirts: (I have a ton of skirts...I can not fit them. Some I wear anyway, they just hang a bit lower, but most of my B5760 skirts are too large now. Booooo. Some of them will get altered though. As that became my TNT, I have made some really beautiful versions!

1. NL6326 (first 2 skirts) in pale grey crepe and a BRIGHT! pink crepe
2. Burda 6769 lengthened a few inches with 'matching' front and back walking slits
3. V1501 (I cut off the bodice :) LOL!) I have made this dress AND have made it twice as a skirt. I have a floral poly crepe from Mood for this one. (oh yeah, I broke fast and purchased 4 yards of fabric last week!)
4. Burda 4/2019 in a kelly green twill (have you seen Beth's version!?)

Dresses:

1. Burda 4/2019 sans sleeve ruffles in a floral challis
2. B6621 in a bright floral knit
3. B6640 shirtdress in a pale blue and white thinly striped shirting

Other:
This is V9032 (my TNT pants pattern), but I really want a flat-front, wide leg crop. I was trying to stay with as many made-before patterns as I could but I wasn't going to be completely happy with them so why sew them!? I am going with Burda 5/2017 in a crepe suiting that was called "Coral gold" from Mood. It looked more brown online but is definitely more pinkish.

This image is of Burda 6938 but I will actually be using 6659 which I've made before. But their short version is longer than I'll make them and has bands on the hem. 6938 is more likely what I'm going for. I'll be using a grey French terry.

I've made Nl6326 (2nd view), Burda 6769, V1501, B6621 and Burda 6659 before. That's only 5 of 13. Oops. We'll see how much I get done!

Lastly, for my birthday, I want to make the Deer & Doe Sicorro jumpsuit using this (super awesome!) knit fabric I bought ages ago.

I finally(!) audited my pattern collection. I do this ever so often but have been meaning to do it for over a year now. Finally!

I started out showing 808 patterns. I cleared out everything that has been removed from my stash (I did a big purge awhile ago and knew I didn't fully clean up the stash after that). That took me down to 739. Then, I added the patterns I own that were never added to my catalog. Boooo! LOL! That put me at 766.  Whew!

I found THREE copies of B5526. Eesh. And there were 38 patterns that I had duplicates of-2 each. Some of those (but probably no more than 12-15) are from buying the smaller size range for my daughter. And maybe 5 or so are patterns that I intentionally duplicated (e.g., B6621). Goodness gracious.

I finally organized my lining stash on the cardboard pieces I ordered. They are 9x12 inches and work well for the lining. I think they are too flimsy to store actual fabric on.

I finished my Burda 12/2009 henley tee! Woohoo! Review to come. In the meantime, behold my awesome matching across the placket :-p

 Lastly, I have never purchased a minimizer bra. They are never pretty :( But I'd read great reviews on this Bali bra and happened to be in Kohl's and tried it on.

Minimizer on top; my regular bra on bottom. Reviews suggested to size down. I am wearing a 34DD in the minimizer and 34DDD/E in my normal bra.

In the below pic, I am obviously turned a little more to the front in the minimizer, but I can totally see the difference in projection! The same style was cheaper at Macy's and with additional discount, I scored one for $20. We'll see how it works with "real clothes" when it comes. 

What are your summer must-haves? Do you snoop-shop RTW??