Vogue 1250

This pattern was SUPER popular back in the day! There are 127 reviews on Pattern Review and many, many people made the pattern multiple times. It's a winner. 

I was stuck on how to use Lily to fit a knit pattern. If sewing pants I would choose a size 18 and make crotch adjustments, with skirts I use a 16 front and 18 back. For tops I used to use a 14 neckline but that's not right anymore. Ultimately, I looked at the intended amount of ease and decided to use my normal Big4 sizing choices: 16 top and 18 for the back skirt.  

If you somehow managed to own this pattern but have never sewn it, it has a very interesting construction! There are 2 main pattern pieces - a front with back skirt integrated into the pattern piece and a back bodice piece. There's also a binding for the back neckline. 

I think this construction is pretty standard for cowl necks, but I am always enthralled with how neatly it finishes. There is a pleat that ends right where the cowl begins. I pinned and basted the pleat by hand. When I turned the cowl facing back on the shoulder seam, I hand basted the corner where it intersects with the back neck binding and then ran it through the serger to sew it. It ensures nothing stretches out of shape or shifts. 

For the armhole, I suggest pinning front and back bodice together, stitching for reinforcement at 5/8" about an inch and then clipping. This will allow you to hem that armhole opening neatly. Where it called for "narrow hemming", I just turned up 5/8" and coverstitched.

There were lots of versions of this by the fitting mavens of the sewing blog community and after reading a bunch of posts, I decided I would be fine just cutting the CB seam of the back skirt at an 18. Many cut along the side dart (where the side seam would sit) to add width, but I don't need extra on the front skirt...just the back. 

Here you can see the dart that closes this seam - this is where others added width. 
I just cut the CB seam (left) at the size 18 mark.

the white arrow shows the dart end!

I added 3/8" to the waist on the back bodice piece to match up to the size 18 skirt back and shortened the bodice 1 1/4". Did a 3/8" high round back adjustment, keeping the space created at the neckline (did not sew the dart). I only had 1 5/8" of fabric and the integrated front piece is a hog, so I added a CB seam to the back bodice (no fitting here, just a seam for construction and I added the seam allowance directly to the fabric).

I added 3" to the front cowl tapering to nothing at the point (do this! it helps it sit better!).

Lastly, I decided to do a 5/8" coverstitched hem (instead of the 1 1/4" included) because I liked the length.

The horizontal seam in back sits low and I was worried about it bisecting the body in a weird way. It's fine! I think it's important to get the back length of the bodice right in order for this seam to not feel "wrong" on the body and to avoid pooling. 

 

The wind was blowing fiercely, but you can see I achieved a nice fit through the waist and lower body. Yay!

I picked this fabric up from SAS Fabrics while I was in Phoenix. I went to take a pic of the finished dress on Lily and was like, what the heck?! (WTH funny vid) I did NOT see this pattern in the fabric. I moved the phone camera and looked at the dress - nope. Put the camera up - pattern. IDK what kind of optical illusion is happening! 

It is off center but I can't be bothered by that because I LOVE THIS DRESS!!! And, I just don't see the pattern when it's on my body - LOL!!!!!!

Alterations Summary:
size 16 with size 18 skirt back
add 3/8" to back bodice waist
shorten bodice 1 1/4"
3/8" high round back, adding neckline width too
2.5" added to cowl at CF
hem at 5/8" instead of 1 1/4"

I also worked up a top version using fabric from the other dress I made over the weekend. I told myself 20" but in retrospect, that doesn't even sound right! arrrgh! 

It will only be able to be worn tucked in because it's just long enough. I got this blue suiting from SR Harris and am going to make another pair of Burda 2/2013 SOON!

QT in the Sewing Room and a Hot Topic

My parents relocated to Georgia almost 15 years ago, my son and daughter live out of state too. Mother's Day then gets a little difficult for me. And this weekend, my husband had a motorcycle training course that was from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. both days. So I decided it was perfect timing for a sew day. 

On Thursday and Friday, I did some pattern prep and cut out Vogue 1250 and McCall's 8174. I got up early Saturday, really pumped, and started my pattern adjustments. I took a break around noon, went and got lunch, and took a break for awhile once my husband got back. Got back at it and finished up the McCall's dress, then cut out another version of M6744. 

This morning, I was moving quite a bit slower :) I finished M6744. Here are the 3 finished dresses and a top from V1250

top left: SAS fabrics

the others are Fabric Mart

I was ready to cut out my yellow silk for a top from Burda 5/2017, and realized I didn't have enough fabric. Womp. Womp. I always forget silk is typically 45". So I traced off a top version of V1250 since I liked the cowl so much. 

I have plans to make pants from this fabric 
which is why I got so excited about a top from this pattern!

And I was not doing hair and makeup (or bras - sorry, not sorry) while having sew-day so I have quick and dirty shots as each garment was completed.

And I'm ECSTATIC about them all! 

Can we talk about disliking finished garments? People often talk about not seeing enough posts about when things don't work out. But, often, when someone posts something and explains why it's a fail, people jump in to tell them that it isn't. I get the instinct to reassure...but can we just take the sewer's word that it truly is a fail? 

My husband says I react because I am very keen on saying exactly what I mean -- words mean things. If I say, I'm not sure about it or I don't know, but something seems off...that means it might work out if I can figure it out. When I post something and I say, I do not like this. That is exactly, precisely what I mean! LOL! 

I posted the New Look dress and had comments on IG and here on the blog that I was "being hard on myself" / "self-critical". Now, this is not any kind of attack on those posters, again, I get the instinct to jump in with helpful comments. But it was interesting to me that I never once said anything about ME; I said I don't like the dress. Not that I felt bad. Not that I looked bad. Again, nothing negative about myself, but for some reason, that's how it was interpreted (and this happens all the time, it isn't a one-off).

There ARE times when something goes wrong and I'm bummed about it. And, I'm pretty open about that. But I am also 100% okay with sewing projects not working out. I'm not going to force myself to keep something or to wear something that I know I dislike / am uncomfortable in just because I made it! Remember in my last post I mentioned donating those black trousers because honestly, I just don't like them. There is absolutely nothing wrong with them...they're a heavier cotton blend, they're slim and ankle length, they fit; but I don't like them. I have lots and lots and lots(!) of clothes. The occasional fail doesn't knock me down, and I don't need those fails cluttering my closet. 

Do you share your fails publicly? 

Vogue 1507 Frilly Top

I was so excited to sew up some new summer tops for the challenge and then life got turned upside down.

The previous post was tops all made before June. This was to be my first top for the challenge. I'd eyed it for awhile, Erica Bunker made it and it was just SO cute.

I mean, isn't it SO CUTE?!?! LOL!!

I do wish I had something slightly lighter like a voile. This cotton (weave unknown - picked it up at SR Harris) is about the weight of a lightweight sateen. You definitely want something stable because there's a gazillion yards of narrow hemming. It needs to be able to take a press too. Bonus if the wrong side isn't super discernible from the right side as the wrong side will possibly show in back on the tie, and on the sleeve. 

I've tried it without a bra and it's fine. I happened to be wearing a bralette today that has a very narrow band and straps set kind of far apart. Good to know that this works with the top!

I cut a size 14 with a 16 back yoke and 16 armholes (could have cut a 14 all over). It is loose fitting and I'm glad I didn't size up the body at all. The front/back pattern piece is huge and oddly shaped. Then there is an overlay on top of that. But the way the top is made/styled if it's a little too big, it's still going to be okay. I personally did not have any issues with it staying up on my shoulders when worn and as someone else mentioned, you can tie it and then pull it on over your head quite easily. 

I used 3 yards of fabric because I somewhat fussy cut. It took a lot for me to decide on a front band!

This is the same as above but flipped upside down!

too much "large blue flower next to each other"

I ended up choosing the very first one I cut out because OF COURSE I did!

I did not follow the instructions to stitch at 1/2", press up, trim and turn and stitch again. That's just too much for my hands. I removed my left needle from the serger, lengthened the stitch a bit so it wasn't so condensed, and serged the ends, then turned twice. It's a little wider than intended and a little bulkier in this fabric (so my hems stand away more), but it doesn't take away IMO.

The instructions are otherwise excellent and all pattern markings were there. OH! The only other adjustment I'd make is adding the front band on the overlay. It is wide enough to 'burrito' so that's how I sewed it. Especially if your fabric is lighter weight. 

I started this on a Monday (June 1 actually!) And finished it on a Saturday. And I worked on it a little bit every day. It was labor intensive but it produces a really beautifully finished top. 

beautiful interior finishing

this is so pleasing to look at!

The CF band is fully enclosed, the underlay is sewn with a french seam, the back yoke is finished with french binding (yum), the yoke-to-top seam and armhole is finished with double fold binding. I used Hug Snug.

WHY. DID. NO ONE. TELL. ME. ABOUT. HUG. SNUG?!?!

It is tedious to sew it but it's so beautiful!! I almost went online and bought a bunch more colors til I realized I have a 100yd roll here and it would take me forever to use that. This soft grey is a nice neutral and will work for many things since I'm probably going to be using this all.the.time!

I have a pair of teal pants (a bit more green than these) that looked perfect. Then I scored these during a LOFT clearance sale and they are perfect!. I think it'll look good with white, gray, or dark blue bottoms. 

I absolutely LOVE IT! I love the construction, I love the look, I love everything about it!

June Wrap-Up

Gah. I can't get my sewing mojo or my picture taking mojo back. I'm rapidly losing track of made-but-not-reviewed projects. And it is REALLY important to me to review my 'makes'! I like to know what adjustments I made without pulling the thing out. I like to see lengths of skirts/dresses/sleeves...I like to see the fit on me in case I revisit the pattern or am looking at something similar. Bleh.

This month, I sewed 7.5 yards. I sewed:

• Vogue 1507 top - 3 yards (fussy pattern cutting)
• floral print cotton woven from SR Harris
• Hug Snug binding
• New Look 6614 dress - 2 yards
• orange linen from Fabric.com (stash)
• eyelets, clasps
• Burda Magazine 5/2020 - 2.5 yards (WIP)
• border print Ankara
• buttons

Favorite. FAIL. Accomplishment:

I am digging the Vogue top even though the fabric was *just* slightly too heavy. The front and sleeves are double layered. I'm really liking the Burda top so far. I knew the shape (of the not yet reviewed black version!) would be great in an Ankara print. Then, I cut a length from the upper portion with plans to hem it and use it as a head wrap, but it felt a little "Spider Man" with the blue, red and yellow. LOL!

The NL dress is not quite what I imagined. I don't know if it'll be wearable. I did finish it, so we'll see. Could be a fail.

Also, I stopped tracking purchases. I also stopped updating my sketch book. WAH. Stupid pandemic. Considering the vast majority of my shopping is online, and there was no in-store shopping until late May (when I bought the fabric for the Vogue top from SR Harris), my email shows no pattern or fabric purchases in June.

I've really been pushing myself to learn my knitting machine and have had some successes...

baby blanket using a tuck pattern

initial progress on baby sweater (sleeve is blocked so the ribbing looks nicer!). 

I accidentally dropped the work when I went to do the decreases on the other side

and then, SPLAT. Fell on my face again and again. Now, I'm thinking I damaged some needles/latches on the main bed. I have some on order and will try to replace the ones where my fabric is getting hung up and see if that helps.

NOTHING IS WORKING ANYMORE!

Lots of Cricut love this month with Father's Day and graduations! The sign is for my dad, tee and onesie are for my son in law, and the t-shirts for a couple of cousins. 

mid-placement

Plus, I bought these cheap-o containers from Target ($2!) and jazzed them up with some permanent vinyl.

The other 2 larger containers say "dressmaking debacles" and "Crafting is the Best Medicine"

2020 goals

And, we're halfway through the year! 2020 is a total wash in so many ways. blehhhhh.

Sewing related, I'd set few hard goals for the year. I wanted to keep my spending very conservative because I knew that this year would be so unpredictable economically (due to the administration, election year, etc). I set a budget of $250 for fabric (hahaha) and $50 for patterns. I've spent about $385 on fabric and $48 on patterns. Well that ain't half bad! I can see myself making it the rest of the year without adding new patterns but we'll see what happens when the fall releases drop :) I've only purchased 14 patterns this year - that's some kind of record.

And while I blew through my lowly fabric budget, I added 68 yards to the stash and I've sewn 83 yards. So I'm ahead!

Also, I've sewn 60 items and 32 of them have been from stash fabrics (older than 6 months) - a little more than half. I'm going to revise my fabric goal to end the year with 75% of items sewn being from the stash.

I have barely touched this goal list! I made a jumpsuit and made some loungewear. Summer is a bust and I should probably just move into fall sewing soon. I really want to make my husband's blazer this year. We shall see.

Lastly, I was planning a career move this year. At an interview with a major corporation that I would have LOVED to work for (have you ever noticed how many Fortune 500s are headquartered in Minneapolis?! Target, Best Buy, 3M, General Mills, US Bank, United HealthGroup, I could go on!) we were making lighthearted jokes about the slight stock dive. The next week, the world was shutting down around us and they pulled the position. Bleh.

So I'm gearing up to get back in the saddle (there was like, NOTHING on the job boards for awhile there) and figure I may as well start looking elsewhere. So my relocation MAY happen in 2020 if things play out well.

I'm tired and could use a fresh start. I have a brother and sil here, some friends and my fantastic sewing community that would be well missed. But I am also very anxious here and feel so...repressed. It's not healthy :( Current events only exacerbate what's been true since my mid 20s.

Hope you are staying healthy!

Notes on pants fitting...

Hopefully your Christmas was great if you celebrate and if you don't, hopefully you had an awesome day off. And if you worked, hopefully it was calm and quiet :)

A commenter (Chabe!) asked on the NL6644 post if I'd post a pic of my pattern adjustments. I will say, that the addition to the back rise (usually ~1") and back crotch point (usually 3/8" to 1/2") are adjustments I make pretty much every time. Recently, I'd been reading/researching a bit more on pants fit and starting thinking about the idea of back rise vs crotch point additions.

I found a YT video -- which I don't have because I come across SO many bits of info and my brain is like a sponge so I remember the important bit but forget when/where -- where the sewer was discussing putting the fabric where you need it. Now, this is sort of a "duh" moment but I think it's easy to get mixed up on what's needed where. e.g., I spent a lot of time making swayback adjustments (which some are legitimate!) but the issue really is wider hips/large butt. So the fabric can't relax where it needs to and it looks like swayback.

Well, with the crotch fit, I've been adding additional length which yes, it's needed overall and it HAS helped. But that wedge at CB isn't where the majority of my adjustment is needed.

So with the NL6644 pants, I made my normal adjustments and it's okay. Like a lot of my pants patterns come out okay. I did add an adjustment for full front thigh.

lowered front rise, increased front thigh

raised back rise and addition to the crotch point

So, I figured next time, I'll add more for full inner thigh, right?

Then, I had a lightbulb moment. I've been down this path before, theoretically, but never followed through. After studying the pics, I copied my crotch curve and compared it to the pattern.

My front crotch curve fits really well. I did actually compare the stitch line (approximately) to the crotch curve but this is the photo I have. shrug.

And here is where things got super interesting to me...

Initially, I overlapped the front and back piece and it was just (obviously) WAY off. Like I'd have to dip several inches into the pants back. 

Then I compared my round part with the round part of the pattern and a-ha! So my butt also fits the curve of these pants but look at how far my inseam is from the crotch point of the pants!! Now, scroll up and look at my back pic. 

If you could imagine forcing that crotch point above to my center mark, it seems like that accounts for those pull lines, right?? At least that's what I think! :) See THIS post from blogger Joyful Expressions on how she added to the back based on a similar back crotch situation.

So, I have a pair of pants to muslin this week, M7982 and will apply my theory to the muslin straight away. Although, the McCall's pattern has a much longer back crotch length than the New Look does, so perhaps a smaller addition. Also, it is much more angular than round, so I will adjust accordingly. 

In the meantime, I cut out my next project, V9201 and compared my "fishbowl" to the pattern.

Caveat #1: It didn't occur til after that this pattern is also less "rounded" in back. But here you can see I added 2" to the back crotch point tapering down through the thigh.

Caveat #2: this pattern is made up in a ponte so that's going to affect fit a bit, especially from a comparison perspective to the woven NL6644.

At any rate, I basted the inseam and side back seam (there's a side panel and no side seams for the upper half of the leg) and made some tweaks after trying to read the wrinkles. So which fit do you think is "best"?

Oh yes, my fabric is sparkly! I got it on the trip to Ginny's in Rochester

A. Sewn as-is. 5/8" seam allowances, no other changes

B. The seam between the white chalk marks (looks like a smudge) was let out to 3/8".

C. The seam between the white chalk marks AND the inseam through the thigh (about 9-10") was let out to 3/8".

D. The inseam was sewn back at 5/8" and the seam between the white marks at 3/4".
I felt D was better than A, B, and C.

E. Which is taken a different day, has the seam between the white marks and the inseam sewn at 3/4" until about mid-thigh. It also has the crotch "scooped" or rather, made more rounded than angular.

The pants will be sewn up and completed with the adjustments shown on E. I think that the 2" added to the crotch point ended up adding just a bit too much to the inner thigh. I have very full inner thighs and this is also an adjustment I've made before but usually much smaller (3/8" or 1/2"). I am wondering about extending the crotch point just a touch more while also tapering the area through the thigh.

I'm excited to try out this extended crotch point on a pair of woven pants! Will plan to document that process as well.

November Wrap-up and December Plans

I won't drone on and on about the passage of time but...OH EM GEE! lol!

This month I sewed up 10 yards. I sewed:

• Vogue 9026 top - 1.5 yards (WIP)
• animal print double knit from Michael Levine (new) 

• Burda magazine 9/2018 dress - 2.5 yards
• print poly crepe woven from Ginny's (new)
• zipper

• Itch to Stitch Cape Cod Capelet top - 1.5 yards
• striped sweater knit from SR Harris (stash)

• Vogue 9111 top - 2.5 yards
• tonal animal print jersey (stash)

• Burda magazine 9/2018 pants - 2 yards (FAIL)
• print rayon/lycra gabardine from Cali Fabrics (stash)
• zippers

Favorite: I don't really have a favorite this month. I really like the Burda dress but am honestly less jazzed about it with it being sleeveless. The V9111 top isn't anything special but it's also exactly what I thought it would be, so that's great!

FAILS: Those dang-blasted pants! (read previous post for whiny saga) and my wonderful animal print knit did not pair well with the V9026 pattern. I still haven't looked at a fix for that :(

Accomplishments: Low key month here. Nothing special happened!

I also bought 12.5 yards of fabric on the trip to Ginny's.

2019 totals so far:
IN: 78 yards
OUT: 85.5 yards

December Plans:

December is always a bit harder to plan as I have that chunk of time off work. My last day of work is December 20th and I go back January 2nd. I get A LOT of sewing done during this time!

Until then, I'm going to continue to focus on completing some things:
*Burda 9/2018 dress (I just have finish the armholes)
*Vogue 9099 jacket (The lining is ready to sew in. I'm doing it by hand.)

I would realllly like to get a couple pair of knit or elastic waist pants done but I'm not sure it's going to happen. I may switch gears and sew up a couple knit dresses instead.
 

Vogue 1501 and Kommatia Patterns Relaxed Tee

Vogue 1501 is a Rachel Comey design that was pretty popular when it was first released. The dress version is super cool (though I can do without the shoulder pads!) but the skirt!!

When I made the dress, I tried the skirt on mid-way and was sold. I sewed a skirt from the same fabric is the dress immediately after then made a yellow version. When I decided this crepe from Mood needed to become a full skirt, V1501 was the immediate choice. 

This fabric! Swoon! It's a polyester crepe and with a little steam and a clapper, it takes a press pretty decently. To be a poly fabric, it handled very nicely and the print is beautifully vibrant. I would definitely recommend it!

Same as previous versions, I cut a size 18 and skipped the french seaming on the pockets. Be sure to take the time to baste the pleats!! 

And then, I got a bit ahead of myself. I cut the backs out and went right ahead and insert the zipper. Once it was time to add the waistband I had a ruh-roh! moment. 

I improvised and added an extension and a button. It isn't perfect but it works!

Aside from that, everything is finished nicely :-D

Skirt is pictured with the Kommatia patterns relaxed tee. I scored 7 patterns from the Makerist during a $2 sale. Then I had them all printed as copyshop patterns. I measured the tee before I even looked at the size chart and decided on a size medium - the chart confirms.

Then I sewed up a muslin 

The top was riding up on the hips so I sliced the side seams, as seen. On the paper pattern, I did a slash and spread on the front pattern piece and added 1/2"; on the back, 3/4". This is an extra 2.5" in the hip! Oy!  But again, as you can see, if I had gone up a size, that would have resulted in a poor fit everywhere else. 

Fabric is a sandwashed poly/Modal jersey from Cali Fabrics. I almost blew up my fast when I got this fabric and washed it up! Very nice for knit basics!

It does still have a little too much back length even though I did a cheater swayback adjustment and I could use an FBA. But also, it's a tee. I don't get too worked up at times on those types of fit issues on tees/other simple garments.

Things I like - it has a nice silhouette (I forgot to take a pic untucked, but the muslin shows it) and the rolled cuff sleeves are cute (wrong side of fabric will show).

Things I do not like - The excess fabric in the back sleeve. I'm not quite sure what to do to correct it. Also, the neck binding. It's overly complicated. However, Barbara Emodi who blogs at Sewing on the Edge *just* did a tutorial for crossover neckband and it makes SO much sense! I wish I'd seen this first but will definitely do it this way next time. Also, the neckband in the pattern is 1 to 1 but Barbara mentions needing to stretch the back - yes. Do this. Mine sits away from my neck so I'll shorten it through the center back next time. 

I did small zigzag stitching on the sleeve cuffs vs actual bartacks.

I've applied for a board member position with a local non profit organization and wore this outfit for the interview :-D

Oh, and I know you've seen that new Vogue collection. Did you swoon? Not much for you?

I, somehow both shamelessly and shamefully, added 7 to the stash! :-p