McCall's 8028 & Burda 4/2019

First - It's Me Made May! I know plenty of people hate it (that's okay!)...I know plenty of people misunderstand it (it isn't about posting photos daily or sewing a bunch of stuff to have for May)...

This May is different of course with many around the world sheltering-in-place, but I always welcome it from the perspective of finding new sewers to follow and this year, not seeing masks over and over and over throughout my feed. I am obviously not begrudging anyone who is making masks, selling masks, donating masks - it has just completely overtaken Instagram. And just as I don't want to watch Coronavirus news nonstop, I don't want to see masks in my timeline nonstop. No shade to anyone, always DO YOU!

First week down! Most days, I work in the a.m. (in loungewear), take a break to exercise, shower, and eat, then work some more. Some days, I never make it out of my pjs :)

Not in order by day :-p

Burda 1/2018 hoodie and M7061 pants * S8424 leggings * V1401 pants * M6886 dress

M6654 skirt * Burda 12/2016 pants * M6886/M6964 hybrid tee and V1411 pants

I posted to Instagram last week about my recent struggles with endometriosis. It has been so tough! and painful!! And I have this insane bloat every month.

So while I was prepared to get pics of a bunch of stuff, I just...can't right now! Blergh. Tired. Bloated. In pain. But I am so backed up on project posts that we're gonna just settle for good enough. K? Great! :-D

Now, I happen to like jumpsuits! I will say, they need to be knit or have a closure. Ain't nobody got time to be wrangling in and out of a woven jumpsuit without closure.

I missed this jumpsuit upon release and was excited by it when buying some newer patterns. I'll say, it isn't innovative. Now that I have some experience with understanding more how patterns are made, this is something I COULD HAVE made from an existing pattern. The bodice and sleeve are basically chopped off across the top, halfway down the armhole!

I knew I wanted a jumpsuit from this fabric I snagged from Fabric Mart awhile back. I wish I'd bought several yards of every color they had (I made THIS sweatshirt from the cut I had in white)! It is a really nice fabric - poly/rayon/lycra blend french terry. It washes, cuts, sews and presses well. It's 2-layered and the distressed fabric sits on top of a base fabric so nothing is exposed. Can't ask for more! I only had 2 yards of it so I couldn't afford to fussy cut and luckily, I didn't end up with the distressed holes over any parts. LOL!

In s/m/l patterns I usually take a Medium top and Large bottom. I wanted a snug fitting garment and cut a medium top, and on bottom, cut a medium front and large back. On the back bodice, I graded about halfway between the medium and large lines at the waist. This pattern had that lazy grading, each size was 1" bigger at the side seam than the previous size.

I added a 1" wedge to the back rise and shifted the upper back based on a suggestion from Alexandra of In-House patterns (her tutorials and fit lessons are ACE!). Now, these are 1) a knit and 2) snug fitting so I will be curious to apply this to a woven pant. While I still have some wrinkles (that look to me as those caused by inner thigh fullness), I don't have that drag in the back thigh area that I often have. I was curious about an adjustment like this - "changing the balance" is how I verbalized it and then she posted the adjustment after I sent her a pic of my wrinkles.

Once I had it sewn up, I didn't like how baggy the legs were. Just beyond the crotch (so left the waist and butt/hip the same), I took them in another 1/4" on inseam and side seam so I removed a total of 2".

After these pics, I took in the elastic a bit, removing about 2"

I also hated the pant cuff. It was HUGE. Wide around the ankle and too "tall". I removed some height and ended up cutting it off, taking another inch off, then reattaching to the legs with a 1/4" seam. I'll have to measure it to see how to adjust the pattern piece.

Normally, I would decrease front crotch length but jumpsuits are often not cut generously enough through the crotch. Some extra room is needed and while I'm glad I left the front as is, it could use a tiny bit of an adjustment. The back could use another inch. I'd also add a tad more length to the bodice to have some blousing.

The elastic around the bodice works well, it fits well and stays upright without being tight. My sleeve didn't "flutter" but that's probably partly due to the fabric weight and partly due to not making adjustments. While my biceps can technically fit, by not doing my bicep adjustment, I lose the "intended fit" of the sleeve.

Lastly, I *knew* better and still cut the pocket bags from the distressed fabric. I should have flipped them to the smooth side at least; I keep snagging my fingers when I put my hands in my pocket. Doh.

Fun make, nice and quick (a much needed break after several more involved projects), and is a solid contribution to one of my 2020 modified Make 9 boxes. YAY!

*****************

I have been ON A ROLL with Burda magazine patterns! This top is from the April 2019 issue - imo the best of last year. I've already sewn 4 garments from that issue (this one, a black jacket that's done and awaiting photos, this dress, this skirt) and there's more stuff I want!

This top is a simple make - front, back, sleeve, bias bound neckline, hem, done! It doesn't look like much hanging or on the dress form but it drapes *just so* and has that easy-wearing feel that I'm digging right now.

I cut a size 40 neckline and shoulder and 42 for the rest. I did not do a bicep adjustment - doh! I ALWAYS need a bicep adjustment. I have some drag lines and it is a little snug through the upper arm.

I used a white rayon challis that has been in the stash forever. At one point I swore off solid color challis. It seems so much more shifty than prints! My sleeve band must not have been fully on grain. Bleh. It made BEAUTIFUL, perfect, awesome bias binding though!

One reason I really love my Burdas is that I can add my own seam allowance. On a top like this, using 3/8" on the neckline and sleeve bands is so much more preferable than 5/8". On fitted garments I almost always use 5/8" just to have that little bit of insurance.

Since the top is white, it's pretty versatile, but the shape makes it versatile too! It's cute with slim fitting bottoms and those with more volume. I think I'll end up wearing this guy out!

Currently, I'm working on a 'hacked' TB Ogden cami and have fabrics lined up for a few new tops (all with patterns I've made before). I have to shift some stuff until I'm able to do fitting. But still plan to make the SA Clare pants and a couple dresses this month. Stay tuned!

And stay safe!

Burda 01/2020 Lace Hoodie

note: I woke up the other day to over 100 spam posts. I ended up accidentally deleting all of the comments on my March wrap-up post. Oops! For now, I have altered commenting to require moderation.

So far this year I've sewn from both the January and February issues of Burda magazine and looking ahead to March, April and May, there are things I want to sew from each issue - yay! 

January had a couple things that I liked and I was immediately sold on this woven hooded top.

I knew RIGHT AWAY that I'd be making it from a lace! In the end, I went with black because that would make it more versatile. And I had several yards of this lace leftover from a Hancock clearance sale. It is a metallic animal print lace with a light bit of stretch and I just love it!

I traced the hoodie in a size 40 and did a slash and spread to add a couple inches to the hip (it finishes right at the high hip). 

I also did my normal 1" bicep adjustment. I wish I'd double checked the hood! I have a big head and the hood is too small. 

I know kitty...it's too small! :-p

I'd used this lace for a dress years ago and knew it would be fine to sew and serge (french seams just don't excite me the way they seem to for many! I'll use them when I must...) but knew that I'd have to use something stable/solid for the cuffs.

I didn't want a double layered hood and decided to bias-bind the hood front opening using some scraps of rayon challis. 

I finished it and got ready to attach the hood and had put it on backward! I cut a NEW hood and NEW bias binding and redid it. Grrr! 

For the continuous lap and cuffs, I used the leftover silk-cotton blend fabric from my B6183 top. 

why yes, my continuous lap is backwards as it ALWAYS is. I mess that up so often!

When I got to this point, I did my buttonholes and sewed on my buttons. On the inside. Ask me how?! I have no clue! LOL!!!! So I had to remove them and redo them. EESH. 

I spent a lot of time figuring out how I wanted to sew the hem. I wanted to face it but didn't feel like it. I didn't feel like making more bias binding. In the end, I did a double turned hem. Luckily, the hip area is wide enough that there is no strain and the fabric seemed to press well enough. Ah. 

I love it! It's casual-cool goodness!

Welcome 2020!

Let me start quickly with my December wrap-up. I ended up getting one more garment in after posting my 2019 wrap up.

This month, I sewed 13 3/8 yards. I found my mojo a bit lacking during my vacation but still managed to sew 6 of the items in my "Sewcation" post!

• New Look 6644 pants - 2.5 yds
• pink cotton sateen, buttons, elastic
• New Look 6644 top - 1 3/8 yds
• grey rayon jersey
• Burda 6990 top - 1.75 yds
• light blue jersey
• Burda 2/2017 skirt - 1 yd
• painted cotton dobby, zipper
• Vogue 9210 - 1.25 yds
• black shimmer ponte
• New Look 6418 skirt - 1.5 yd (possible wadder; I'm not sure about this faux leather)
• black faux leather, zipper
• Simplicity 2700 pants - 2.5 yds
• herringbone cotton/linen suiting, zipper, hook & eyes
• Burda 4/2010 shirt - 1.5 yds
• striped cotton shirting, buttons

Sewcation results, L to R:

Finished bias binding the armholes of Burda 9/2018 dress

Finished bar tacks on Style Arc Sandra jeans

Sewed Burda 4/2010 shirt

Sewed Burda 2/2017 skirt

Sewed Burda 6990 top

Sewed Vogue 9210 leggings

Sewed Simplicity 2700 pants (not shown because they refuse to dry?!!)

Sewed a muslin for McCall's 7982 (not shown)

Welcome 2020!!

I cannot believe this year has gone by so fast, not to mention this decade! Decennial is such a weird word :)

Life is getting more and more expensive and I need to reassess *everything*. I need to spend much less the next year than I usually do including on sewing expenses. That means patterns, fabrics, notions, all that. And it should be doable because goodness knows I have the stash for it!!

Patterns

Back in August, Vogue released their fall patterns and I bought like 10. I have yet to sew any of them. Now, that's fine, I don't feel like I must sew every pattern I own. But I do feel like I don't need to rush out and add to the collection. There are at least a couple of these that I'm rethinking after seeing versions made up (like Vogue 1643). 

I purchased A LOT of patterns this year. I. Have. Sewn. 7. SEVEN! (This has been updated. I went purely off of dates in my PR pattern stash but after organizing my patterns and auditing them, there were a bunch that hadn't been entered. My tracking spreadsheet shows 89 but PR shows 125. Let's assume I purchased somewhere around 100!) :)

So I will be watching my pattern buying. I don't feel the need to put a limit on the number of patterns, but I am budgeting $50 for the year on patterns. Since I primarily buy Big4, this shouldn't be as difficult.

I'm going to keep my Burda sub (just renewed for all of 2020) and cancel Ottobre, Threads and SEWN. 

Fabric

Oy. I have a stash. I don't mind having a stash. I rather enjoy having a stash. I'll never become a per-project-basis type sewer. 

But I have a lot of fabric and it currently feels overwhelming. I don't like to feel overwhelmed. When I finally organized this year (after last summer's move), I got rid of some stuff then but need to cull the stash again and remove things that don't feel like "me". There are pieces that I routinely pick over and so they need to go. 

I am setting a low fabric budget for 2020 of $250. I will only be buying fabric if "needed" for a project. Because, while I have quite a bit that makes me feel like it doesn't belong, there's a ton that I love and want to see made up. So I'll be stash-diving in 2020!

I never include lining and interfacing in "fasting". I will include lining this year as I bought a TON during an awesome FM sale. I will not include interfacing because you need the right stuff for the job. 

Notions

I have so much stuff. So many buttons and snaps and hook & eyes and thread and, and, and. I'm going to designate this as an "as needed" category. I will shop the stash first and try to make existing stuff work.

Goals

• I really want to sew some stuff for my husband. I just took his full measurements and plan to sew his corduroy blazer early in the year and hopefully a pair of jeans at some point. 

• I need more outerwear! I have 4 coat patterns I really want to sew!  The 3 below plus a trench coat. I think I can commit to 1 outerwear piece per quarter with my output. 

center pattern is V1479

• I need more cold-weather loungewear and want to sew at least 2 long sleeved sweatshirts/tops.

M7061 has been on the radar for forever. I have really cute fabric for it too. 

• I am still floundering during summers and not feeling put together most days. I am really going to try to assess my style needs during the warm months.

• Pick up the Burda challenge again. I was going through my binder and reflecting on all the stuff I made. I really loved quite a few things that I ended up sewing because of the challenge!!

• I will continue blogging. I don't mind IG (though I despise the algorithm) but I just don't find it helpful for sewing as I don't want to interact so passively within the sewing community. Scroll. like. Scroll, Comment. Scroll. Scroll. Scroll. meh. I want to read about the process of sewing a garment! I don't want to have to try to remember who posted what; or have things disappear in stories that I was interested in. Blog content is "google-able". I like that. And, I am 110% an "to each their own" kinda lady but I don't understand the 'blogging is too much work' but will post a series of 8-10 pics and 4 paragraphs on an IG post. HOW is that any less work than blogging?!?! Me thinks it's preferable because it comes with the instant gratification and the instant interaction. But seriously, to each their own.  

So, I don't have a ton of goals for the new year and am hoping for a super chill, relaxed year. 

Burda Challenge: 10/2017 #127

I kind of hemmed and hawed over my October Burda project. I liked several of the dresses but just didn't "need" them. And then I liked the cool top with the integrated tie waist. But I cannot find any fabric in the stash that I really want to use so I figured I'd better let it go for now. I don't want to force it and end up with a garment I don't really like or won't wear (ahem; looking at you nice 8/2017 wrap dress from nice black & white fabric that gives me the sads when I put it on). (also, I took pictures of the dress and still don't like it. It's been almost 6 weeks though so I'd better review it. Soon.)

I fell in love with this very simple top/tunic immediately!

I've always used a 40/42 on top for Burda and figured the plus 44 would be too large. Then I wore the top I made for the PR Sewing Bee, remembered I had a chunk of fabric left, and wondered if I could squeeze this top from it. The pattern calls for 1 3/4 yds of 55" fabric which is closer to 1.5 yards of 60" fabric-I had 1 yard and a large scrap. They had you mirror the pieces and cut single layer. I decided that if I used 3/8" seam allowances instead of 5/8" I'd be able to make it work. And I did! Without using the scrap piece!

Regarding the sizing, I figured 1) it's a "sweatshirt" so a little oversized is fine and 2) I just measured into a 46 on bottom vs my "usual" 44. I graded the neckline and shoulder to a ~42 and traced a 44 for the rest. I added 3/8" seam allowances throughout.

This was quick work on the serger and coverstitch (WHY DIDN'T I BUY A COVERSTITCH SOONER!?!?). You can see it's a very simple construction; sew the shoulder seams, hem the neckline, attach the lower front and back (the fronts cross over slightly), side seams, zippers, hem the armholes. I hemmed the armholes last...if I did it again I'd just coverstitch those while it's still flat.

I like their styling with a long sleeved tee. This is the only one I own and it's too small.

I'd just added 'long sleeved tee' to my sewing list. 

I bought these zippers in my last Wawak order for this top. I was going to use the animal print knit I used for V9022, which the weight of that fabric would've worked nicely. The sweatshirt knit must have some rayon in it - it drapes nicely and it wrinkles if you happen to share the same airspace with it.

Somehow the details of the line drawing escaped me. This happens to me a lot. LOL! It tapers in toward the hip. Whyyyyy Burda?! Why!!!

Yep, totally just like the line drawing. Doh.

So mine is snug across the butt and gets hung up.

I took the pic on the left and was like, eh, it's okay. But the picture on the right is totally my normal posture! LOL! I had a New Year's resolution once to try to correct my posture. Fail!

BUT, this is totally a casual at-home type of garment for me. No judgment here, just my own personal comfort level...I don't do athlesiure. Lounging at home - yes, please! And I definitely need more loungewear. I've been saying it for FOR-EVER! I'm going to make it happen this time though. I have a loungewear mini-wardrobe planned!! :) Oh, all that to say that I'm not happy it's snug across the butt but it isn't a deal breaker. 

I could have sworn the model was drinking coffee in the shot and my mug of coffee was there and...

...I went and checked and nope. She has her phone in her hand! :)

NL6530 is stalled. I have to do some unpicking so wahhhhhh. This morning I started tracing the jacket from the 12/2017 Burda. I hope to get those reviews up while I'm working through the jacket. And I made my black sweater knit M6886 though and luuuuuurrrrrve it.

As always, more later!

Burda Challenge: 11/2017 #106

 

It was 29 degrees this morning...way too cold to be standing outside with no coat!

 

 



This skirt was the first thing I noticed in the magazine. I wanted it immediately and I wanted it in plum. I have a cut of plum suiting that is a very nice weight, completely opaque and with great drape. I think it's an RPL. When I pulled it out, I decided I wanted to make pants with it instead -- I have a pair of J.Crew slim fit pants in a similar shade. Love the color, hate the fit.

Dear J.Crew: Just because I buy a size 14 pant doesn't mean I've suddenly developed enormous calves and ankles. Slim fit my foot.

ANYway. I almost sidelined the project until I remembered this wonderful piece of wool blend suiting. This fabric was purchased long ago from Fabric dot com. It was my first run-in with them. I ordered 3.5 yds for pants and they sent me 2 yds. Sure, they refunded the difference but how did that help me make my pants?! :) I ended up using it to make my brother a hat from Waffle Patterns (in 2/2014) and the rest of the fabric has languished in the stash.

It was the perfect amount of fabric for this skirt!

I wasn't sure what color to topstitch with and chose the cream. None of the browns I had in stash worked quite right and in the end, I wanted the contrast like the magazine version. I could not do that amount of hand stitching so I used double thread and the longest stitch length to topstitch, I like it!

I went with a size 42 front and 44 back which I almost always use this combo with skirts (even Big4, it's 16 front, 18 back). Burda always has a little too much hip curvature/projection for me so I just sewed that area a bit straighter after basting.

I am not a huge fan of petersham waist finishes and decided to draft a facing. Once the front was assembled, I folded it in half and traced the curve onto paper. I made the facing 2.5" deep. I like this depth and I almost always just serge the edge.

My brass zipper is from Wawak, snagged for a whopping $.53!

Their site is slow (they've assured me they're working on it!) but it is SO worth it. How much is a metal zipper at JA? At least $2-3...even a coupon doesn't make it come close! When I place a Wawak order, I tend to 1) look ahead to planned projects 2) look at my fabric stash 3) somewhat like 2, look at the colors I wear. e.g., I have rare occasion for say, a yellow zipper, but I have greys and blues in several shades and lengths. And black in several lengths. And they frequently run buy 2, get 1 free promos.

NAYY, it's just a great resource.

There's not much else to say about the skirt; it's essentially an A-line midi. It went together well, and was relatively quick to sew. I used my walking foot to topstitch and serged all seams.

I like the length - oh, I did add 5/8" hem allowance, which I normally do not with Burda. I hemmed it at 3/4" so I probably could've done my usual. I topstitched the hem but I don't love it. The brown is a close match and it doesn't stand out so honestly, I'll probably leave it.

It does emphasize how straight I am (viewed front-on), which I'm not normally fond of -  I am the person saying YES! Give me things that accentuates/exaggerates the hip - please! - but I don't have time to worry about whether every single thing is the most "flattering" to my body type/shape. I mean, right!? If I put it on and it makes me happy, I call it good! :)

I love wine/burgundy and camel together. But living in MN means I encounter 7,000 Target employees a week, at least, and so the combo always makes me a tiny bit cringey despite my fondness of the pairing.

Actual outfit that day so, excuse the wrinkles! And because I live in the tundra, getting photos in the winter months is HARD. Our kitchen had amazing lighting midday but I did not want to look like a weirdo (which I *totally* do anyway!!) so I was sneaking and taking pics. LMAO!

 

 This one was a winner for me!!

 

Burda Challenge: 08/2017 #107

Red is hard to photograph

The sun goes down at like noon

The trail wasn't actually the best place for photos because there was lots of glaring sun

I FINISHED IT!!!! I was tired of wrangling fabric and sweating over the ironing board...and then I got the one side completely done, did the belt, and this propelled me forward.

(excuse my messy room)

I was so fixated on the red version from the mag but in the end, the other version is my jam! 

My fabric is a deep red-orange color, not a true red. I love, love, love it! I picked up just over 3 yards of this wool fleece from SR Harris for $10/yard. It is VERY thick, warm, and snuggly...but a mess to cut and wrangle around on the machine.

I used my normal Burda sizing; a size 40 neckline/shoulder and the rest is a 42. I went with the shorter length. You may have noticed the the red version is knee-length on the model but the shorter version is knee length on me! There is a 4" difference between the two; the shorter one has a 37.5" back length and the longer is 41.5".

Often times I don't add hem allowance to Burda patterns. I added a 1 1/4" allowance here - I really like the finished length! I did not add hem allowance to the sleeve.

Sewing the inset corners was tough the first time and the second half was infinitely easier!

I posted the photo on the left on Facebook as I was so proud!

I ordered a spool of Gutermann Mara 100 from Wawak and it was the perfect color - just a bit darker than the fabric. 

I used a size 14 stretch needle  and wound 3 bobbins to prep. I did all of my topstitching with the thread doubled. I finished the topstitching on the sleeve, noticed my bobbin thread was out. There was a 2" piece of thread left! Whew!! 

I'd added a 5/8" allowance but ended up sewing the back with 3/8" so that when I topstitched, there wouldn't be much excess. I serged almost all of the edges prior to sewing because of the thickness of the fabric.

I got the second side ready to topstitch and kept turning and turning...I'd twisted the front pattern piece. I had to under the side seam and when I redid it with the side panel already in place, I couldn't finish it cleanly. Boooo.

As mentioned, I really prefer it without the belt...

Can you see my belt carriers on the side??

I also do not like the scarf I made WITH the coat:

I love the scarf and will wear it...but it feels too...rustic?? with the style of the coat. This Robert Kaufmann flannel is VERY nice though! 

I figure this way, I can choose to use the belt when I need to wear it closed.

(I promise the top is even!)

I think my fabric is just a bit bulky for the belt. I feel like I need to arrange it when I cinch it in so that it doesn't look messy.

Love the sleeve length!

It's so me. I'm excited to add this to my (expansive!) outerwear collection.

Burda Challenge: 9/2017 #117

Thank you EVERYONE for the kind comments on my PR Bee entry!!! Sometimes I can stay on top of comments and sometimes I can't. But know they were read and appreciated!!

Swoon. This silk is really amazing.

For some reason, it had completely escaped me that this was such a roomy blouse. I was pinning my yokes to the back before I realized there was an inverted pleat in back. For that reason -- the roominess -- I don't love it. The sleeve cuff? OH MY WORD! The overall fit? ehhh.

lightbulb moment!!! I was doing something else and remembered I used 3/8" seam allowance (to conserve fabric) but used 5/8" at the side seams! I like it better now that I've corrected that! 

I don't normally tuck my blouses but at least the silk is lightweight enough and has enough drape that I can without it being bulky. I just don't really do oversized or boxy clothing. Viewed front-on, it's easy for me to look like a block so I am ALWAYS preferring to emphasize curves. Always, always, always!!! :)

I did not have enough fabric for the ruffle OR to cut my ties on the bias. And they look crappy cut on the (straight?cross? I don't remember.) grain. I also made a mistake on the front. The bottom of the cut should've just been a point so I don't want to remove the tie.

At least the facing is neat! :)

I *LOVE* the faceted buttons

Confession: I ironed the front before photos but not the back. Oops.

I also missed that the sleeves are SUPER long on the model. Crud. Burda is pretty true-to-form with the representation on the model. If it's bodycon, watch out! If it's low-cut...ooooh baby! LOL!! But I missed how it was shown on the model.

Yeah, those sleeves are LONG and the blouse has lots of room.

Say hello to my mega-biceps!

And my extra long sleeves

I also messed up (yeah, yeah, I know) and cut a straight 42. I don't know what I was thinking. I ALWAYS use a 40 for the neckline and shoulders.  I had a heck of a time getting the sleeves in so I'm not too keen on opening them back up to shave off some of the length in the shoulder.

So aside from all the mistakes, sewing it wasn't that bad. As mentioned, I had just enough fabric and therefore used 3/8" seam allowances to conserve fabric. So no french seams which, I'll do them sometimes, if I think serger stitching will show through or will be too bulky. But I don't get the warm fuzzies over them like a lot of people. A 3-thread serger stitch worked great with this fabric.

The silk feels amazing against my skin and I won't be afraid to do more complex projects with it in the future. Sure, finishing those sleeves (continuous lap, band, cuff) was more time consuming but it wasn't difficult.

I'd bought interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply specifically for this project and still ended up using the Fabric Mart stuff because I liked it better on a swatch. I'm glad I got 4 yards of it and wish I'd gone the full 10!

I had the flat button in stash, saw the pearl shank button first and then saw the metallic faceted buttons at JA, worried they'd be too big, and decided I didn't care. They had to go on this blouse!

Ooh! I also walked right up and chose the right color thread! :-D I'm always very proud when I can do that!

So, because of the billowy fit of the top, it doesn't work under that McCall's cardigan/jacket. But that's okay. A long sleeved silk blouse should be plenty warm. I can always pair it with a camisole if needed for a tiny bit extra warmth. I'd previously tried it on with the charcoal skirt, really liked it, and then forgot to take pics of the outfit.

I take back my lukewarm reception and will upgrade it from an "it's okaaaay" to "I really like it!" :)

I'd like to make this pattern again with slightly shorter sleeves, narrower shoulders (eye-roll), a bicep adjustment (I measured, it was fine, but it needs more ease to fit the wearing ease of the rest of the pattern) and the front ruffle...maybe in a print. I will keep my eye out on a nice stable silk like this one!

OH! One other thing. I have always felt Burda's dart was a little off on me. This time I moved it 'back' a bit (about 3/4"). But I think the issue is the angle. I don't think the entire dart is too high (though maybe it can move down some) but I think the angle makes the uptake a weird fit to my bust--like my bust isn't as round all the way through, the weight sits more on the bottom, leaving empty space on top?? It's hard to explain but it makes sense in my head! I'll muslin my next Burda make with darts and play around with it.

Until later!!