Finished Object: Butterick 5526 and Updates

I posted HERE when I planned out this project and HERE with info on adjustments and construction. I  have to admit, I did not like it when I first finished it. I called it a "Post Office" shirt! LOL!!! I finally wore it after washing it a couple of times (I dislike when it's super crisp).

Wearing it has shown that removing all of the cap ease DOES impact the fit a little - I think it limits my mobility a bit when I bring my arms forward. But it isn't straining or pulling, so there's that. Luckily, I had a tracing and adjusted that; the original sleeve is intact.

I wore it with my aqua? mint? jeans...it also pairs well with camel, red, navy, and black. I didn't like it as much with a pair of mid-toned blue pants (post office!!). 

And after looking at the pics in the black skirt I was like, geez, I look so blocky! And yep...this skirt is too big. I can pinch like 3" out of the waist. 

I really like the sleeve more and more! I added a center seam and topstitched that seam. It looks really good. This pattern has no dart control at all...if I made it again I'd either make it a bit looser overall or do a cheater FBA. The side view shows it's flattening my chest a bit. 

Good thing this turned out well because EVERYTHING ELSE I've been working on is MEHHHHHHHHH!

I put the yellow dress  in timeout and while the Burda shorts turned out well (I'm tempted to make another pair but feel like full-on fall will immediately arrive if I do)... 

...the double gauze wasn't fun to sew and I realized I messed up the collar on the shirt. I feel mildly over it.

I understitched the facings but they are still super floppy and I have no confidence in sewing buttonholes in this fabric. You can see in this pic where I messed up attaching the collar.

I was so close to recutting the shorts but luckily, I posted about the fabric growing and someone told me it would be fine once washed. WHEW!! Apparently it grows while sewing but once I washed them, they were perfect. 

I went to insert a sleeve on the yellow dress and sewed the entire thing only to realize there was NEVER any thread in the bobbin. OY VEY! The next night, I tried again and sewed the sleeve inside out. Totally in the naughty bin now. Hmmph!

February Wrap-up and March Plans

This month I sewed 5 items for a total of 6 3/8 yards.
I sewed:

• McCall's 6044 shirt for my son in law - 1.5 yards
• cotton shirting
• buttons

• McCall's 6016 shirt for my grandson - 5/8 yard
• cotton shirting
• snaps

• Simplicity 8529 top - 1.25 yards from stash
• black and olive french terry

• Burda 6990 top - 1.5 yards
• teal and tan rayon jersey

• Burda 8/2016 top - 1.5 yards
• cotton jersey

ACCOMPLISHMENTS: Those shirts for my guys! They turned out really well and I did my best work on them! So excited to see some pics.

Also, I DID NOT BUY ANY FABRIC or PATTERNS IN FEBRUARY! Woohoo!!!! I am still waiting for my Ottobre mags that I ordered 1/25 :( Apparently, they weren't aware of some new USPS rule about declarations of contents. Ugh.

FAILS: Burda 8/2016 is a giant fail. I do not sew cotton jersey (aside from loungewear or leggings) and I need to stick to that. I have never been happy with a finished garment made from a cotton-lycra knit. And I really splurged on this fabric. I won't consider it a total waste though. The pattern pieces are pretty big so I'm thinking I'm going to cut a t-shirt for Bert and maybe a headband for me. 

FAVE: Aside from the shirts, I'd say the S8529 top. I really love the color blocking! 

(I pressed the hem out after this pic! LOL!)

The Burda 6990 may not make an appearance soon so I'm posting it here. I really wanted the teal on top but didn't have enough of the scraps and now I'm not as happy about it. 

Burda 8/2016 was fully finished but this pic shows the blahness that is the neckline. It just does NOT look good on. And I had a couple of people message me on Instagram that their versions didn't turn either. 

And, y'all know me, I move on!

March Plans

I've finished my first project - a bias cut cami from Burda 1/2019 in an Atelier Brunette challis that I picked up from Stonemountain and Daughter. It was a fun make and I think I'd use this pattern again. I'll do a full review!

And I haven't forgotten about my goal of a finished machine knit project each quarter. I am SO intimidated by my lack of knowledge with this craft! EEK! It's so unlike me to be cautious like this but I just feel there's so much I don't know. 

I'm using a pattern that 1)I've tried before (but I used a yarn that was too lightweight and it was too short and too small) and 2) that's actually pretty simple. The front and back are rectangles resulting in a dropped shoulder look and the sleeve is a simple, gradual increase. I'm going to see it through to the end. Even though I knit one panel and it came up 2+" longer than I expected (and I made a swatch!!)

I also need to finish my brother's club covers. I got held up with how to work with the nylon fabric but a microtex needle and slightly longer stitch seems to be the way to go.

I also want to sew this jacket from Burda 6/2018:

I have a few Cricut projects to work on this month as well...

Simplicity 1430 top and Burda 6769 denim skirt (love!)

EVERY DAY, as the sun starts to set, I think, OH MY GOSH! I COULD HAVE TAKEN BLOG PICS TODAY!

Oy. This skirt is totally like 2 months old and is already beloved.

I made this for the first time in 2016. I ended up distressing the skirt - which I like! - but that made it a "for play" garment only.

Ever since, I've been in neeeed of a denim skirt. My work environment is casual (though I tend towards a more business casual/professional) style) so a denim skirt totally works for work. And then, one day, I came across this vintage pattern on Google:

Oh. My. Word.

Well I DEFINITELY need a midi length denim skirt!!!! :) I eventually settled on this pattern because, why not? I like the fit, I've sewn it before, it just needs some minor tweaking.

-I cut a size 16 front and 18 back, same as before. This just works well when making skirts for my body type.

-On the first version, I used the pockets from my Style Arc Sandra jeans. I couldn't find the pattern piece (sigh) and used the pocket from the Birkin Flares, shaped to match the inspiration skirt.

-I also used the Birkin coin pocket because I don't like the plain square that comes with the pattern.

-I slashed and spread the pattern 6 inches to get the length I wanted. I put on the old skirt and measured from the hemline to wear I wanted the finished skirt to hit.

- I had such a hard time sewing the vent on this pattern the first time around and did some modification that I can't explain to you, I just made it work.

-I added a walking slit in front by removing 3/4" from the CF seam tapering to zero.

-I ADDED RIVETS! WOOHOOOOOOOO!
I used Taylor Tailor's tutorial. He suggested having a piece of metal (steel specifically perhaps, I don't recall) and I found the PERFECT item. This shelf divider was in an old file cabinet at work and I came across a stack of them when we were putting things back together after a remodel. Paired with my concrete fireplace hearth, putting my rivets in were a BREEZE! I did need scraps as a spacer, and tested 1 rivet out before starting. I just cut some squares, inserted the rivet through all thickness, and then cut around the rivet afterward.

-I topstitched and topstitched some more and some more after that :-p Funny story...my Singer Quantum Stylist 7258, that was like, $180, makes bartacks WAY better than my 9985 that was like, $500! Eesh.

-I have no idea where the denim came from. I have so many random cuts! The rivets and tack button are from Taylor Tailor. 

I'd like to wear this skirt everyday, IJS.



Simplicity 1430 - I've made the shorts from this pattern a couple times (and have an unblogged pair to share!) and I have noticed the top before now...just didn't pay enough attention to it!

It's such a great, simple pattern!

I was looking for a sleeveless top that could be worn solo. I love my Ogden camis and while I'll wear them solo "for play", I would not wear them to work without a cardi or jacket over them. I looked at A LOT of tops and kept coming back to this one.

I could make 10 of these.

I think there are lots of options with the front neckline too to differentiate. Some have left it open (ending the facing with the front of the top), some have left it open and added ties (definitely doing this!). I could see adding a ruffle down the front, eliminating the cutout altogether and having fun with the seaming (e.g. using stripes horizontally and vertically, color-blocking, etc).

front cut-out, neck binding and french binding on the armholes

Whenever I purge clothes, RTW or handmade, I make sure to 'steal' any notions I can from those in the trash pile! :) This button is from something RTW that I purged who knows when!

I really like the fit and will be focused on getting this one to TNT status!! I sewed a size 14 with 3/4" FBA, 5/8" swayback adjustment, and 3/4" added to the back hip via a slash and spread.

side slits 

The fabric is a rayon challis from Cali Fabrics. I used my Best Press to tame it and the pattern (wisely) advises you to blockfuse a piece of fabric before cutting the facings. I used a very lightweight interfacing that I scored for $1/yard from Fabric Mart that IMO is *very* similar to Fashion Sewing Supply's ProSheer Elegance Couture. Such a great deal!!

I've worn this top a few times since finishing it and it wears and washes up well. I love the color scheme. It's very colorful yet muted and that makes it so versatile for me!

I really want to blog both of my projects from the 04/2019 Burda next. My skirt is a little too tight since I finished it. I blame it on Summer Shandy and tacos! :-p We will see...but totally have to photograph the dress because I wear it ALL the time because it is AWESOME and FANTASTIC and I think YOU should sew it TOO! :-D

Butterick 6378 & Burda 6432

I first made B6378 last April and am super surprised that it took me this long to get back to it.  I picked up this fabric in December 2017 from SR Harris and always knew I wanted to use it for this pattern. It takes me awhile to get excited to sew sheer, slippery fabrics.

No major changes from the last version:
I used my normal size 14 with the following adjustments:
1" FBA and left the dart (I intended on rotating it into the gathers at the shoulder and forgot)
3/4" full bicep adjustment
Sewed a narrow hem. The pattern hem is 3/4".

Last time I inserted elastic into the sleeve hem. I don't hate it but decided to go in a different direction this time. I gathered the sleeve and made a little cuff.

I used my featherweight black interfacing scored from FabricMart and cut the band to finish at 3/4" and about 10" in circumference.

When I sew slippery fabrics, I cut the facings and take them to the ironing board, reshape with the pattern piece, then fuse the interfacing. Somehow, while inserting my facing (or something), it was INSANELY skewed. I am not exactly sure what happened. 

I ended up serging the excess off of one side and topstitched around the opening. I figure the tie will be covering it at all times.

This was a December project. I finished it about a month ago and I think I've worn it about once per week! I love it!

There have been some great conversations going on about fit while sewing. I think the simplest concept to take from a complicated issue is, we never stop learning about fit! 

I have made many pairs of pants and they've varied in how well they fit, but I learned something HUGE with this pattern.

I cut a size 16 and did a 1 1/4" full butt adjustment, shaped the crotch curve a bit and added a little to the crotch point. The back view was not good when I basted them together. They WERE a little too tight but my primary concern was that I had A TON of wrinkles and pulling. I was unpicking basting stitches and had a lightbulb moment.

I flat pattern measured the thigh and huzzah! It was about 1.5" smaller than my thigh! I opened the inseam from mid-thigh through the crotch and to the other thigh and tried them on. I need way more inner thigh room. 

To get to the point on the right, I took less of a seam allowance on the back leg only, through the thigh:

 I'm excited to give this pattern another try with my ideas on the leg / crotch fit! I have my own method for fly zippers but this pattern had excellent (IMO) instructions! I think this is the best finish I've ever gotten!!

As you may have noticed, I removed the pockets. If you scroll up to that before-and-after, you can see how they were gaping. The messed up thing is, I had used lining fabric for the pockets and had to unpick them to use the fashion fabric, and THEN ended up removing them completely. So annoying!!

Things I did NOT like:

The narrow waistband. HATE. I'm not sure why I didn't change it when I noticed how thin (1" I believe) it finished. 

I usually DIY my belt carriers because I hate when they are too thick (to me). These are a little too wide. 

My own mistake - I bought this fabric from Metro Textiles to make a dress. I should have made a dress. The fabric isn't great as pants. When I wore the pants for the first time, they grew so much throughout the work day that I could almost pull them down over my hips without unbuttoning! I interfaced both he waistband and the waistband facing and it still collapses and is very much affected by body heat. WAH. 

 I am currently working through a Burda blouse that's trying hard to take me out! It's trying to get me!!!! I think(?) I'm almost done with it? Sometime this week :)

I have slowly been cutting Butterick 6641 out (the paper pattern). If I can get this cut out, it'll probably take me the rest of the month to finish it once the other top is done. Had more testing Monday with a follow up to my doc this Friday. Fingers crossed that we find a resolution.

Ooh! MY KAI SCISSORS ARE AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've loved my (several pair) of Ginghers for years now. The Kai scissors I ordered are SUPER lightweight, has the bent handle, the grips are soft and all 4 fingers can fit in the grip which makes cutting easier. Yay!!

Weekend Sewapalooza!

This post is huge. Sorry not sorry! :-p

  

Because life, I finally had a chance to exhale this past Monday and decided that I would spend Friday night and all. day. Saturday sewing. I knew I'd have to come back to reality on Sunday :) but Friday after work through early Sunday morning would be mine.

First, a pic! Then, lots of words about my process, then reviews.



WORDS

I made 5.5 things. Because people ask (all the time! LOL!), I will talk about the sew-a-palooza process :-p

1) Just me being...Me
You all know I sew fast. There's no special sauce; it just...is. I am a Project Runway fan. (I'm sure I've told this story before!) Kini Zamora was on season 13 of PR. It aired in 2014 and I'd been sewing about a year and a half. If you watched, you know that Kini would turn out his garments and be sitting back, chilling, while the rest of the designers were working. Kini sewed FAST. Now, whether or not you liked his aesthetic, you'd have to acknowledge that he did NOT sew 'throw away' designs. He sewed fast, with detail and tailoring and fit and no one knew how he did it. I started calling Kini my brother from another mother...and I stopped questioning my ability to sew fast. And stopped feeling weird over the constant comments that I must not sleep. I totally do. 8-10 hours every night. Because I am a giant toddler in so many ways! AND I don't even sew "constantly"! More on that later.

1a) By the time I start cutting something out, I have the entire construction process mapped out mentally. I know what I'm going to do, in the order I'm going to do it, and I try to be as efficient as possible. I see a lot of commentary about "rushing" whenever someone mentions fast sewing. I don't rush...I just do pretty much everything, in a direct manner. I'm not a 'faffer'...with anything.

2) Plan
This was a planned binge-sewing event. Two or three times a year (we have 2.5 seasons soooo), I make a big list of garments that I want. I do not sew exclusively from that list, nor do I necessarily finish the list...but it guides my sewing to a degree. I'd mentioned needing more summer tops, tees/knits in particular. I have a lot(!!!) of blue and black & white print tops and dresses. That's okay...those are my favorite...but I felt like I didn't have enough SUMMER! work wear and decided to focus on those things.

2a) A good plan
Knowing what my focus was for the weekend, I chose to
1) only make patterns I'd sewn before. They didn't need to be "quick to sew" patterns...but I didn't want to bother with cutting pattern tissue, fitting, etc. I wanted to sew. By using patterns I'd sewn before, I was able to get right down to business!
2) focus on knits. I needed more knit tops but also, the fabrics I wanted to sew were primarily knits. So I rolled with it!

3) Organize
I decided to start with the simplest patterns (sewn as-is). I started with the Ottobre 2/2015 tee, then the McCall's 7465 dress, then the Burda 7107 wrap top, then the McCall's 6964 tee, then the McCall's 6612 dress (not actually more difficult than anything else but I wanted to play with a sleeve idea).

3a) I am not a sewer who cares much about serger threads matching. Sometimes I do...it depends on the garment and whether there's a chance it'll be seen. Otherwise I tend to come "close". I went with gray. I used it in all 5 garments.

4) Sew!
Friday I took my daughter to the airport (she's doing study abroad in Iceland and Denmark!), came home, got all of my fabric and patterns out, washed the orange jersey and lace and started sewing around 6:30.

so much words

Saturday I woke up and got started right away, a little before 7. The Ottobre tee and McCall's dress needed binding and hemming which, my machines are a bit loud (Brother serger and coverstitch) so I tend to wait until at least 9 a.m. to use them. My sewing room is in a bedroom now and the teenaged people are in the basement. I decided to work on the Burda wrap top during the 'quiet hours'.

Once, I was chatting with Carolyn and somehow mentioned that I don't sew continuously. I get restless...so I take frequent breaks. I sewed from around 7-9, stopped to eat and watch one of my DVRd shows that I'd missed during the week. I sewed from around 10-noon, then washed my hair and watched a hilariously awful Lifetime movie. At 2:30 I started again and this time I binged. I sewed until about 9:30 stopping at one point to order pizza (mmmmm!) and eat. And again to harass my son and his friends.

Sunday morning I cut out and sewed M6612. I was able to finish it last night at about 6:30. I'd taken all the other pics on a pit stop home around 2. While taking pics of the dress it was HILARIOUS seeing the sunlight in the room change as time moved. It was seriously like, different lighting 2 minutes after taking a pic.

My errands took me near the original SR Harris location so I decided why not! I found a rayon challis that I just loved. I was able to get another TNT, McCall's 6519 cut out and sewn (shoulder seams, side seams). I hope to finish it Monday or Tuesday.

EPIC sewing weekend for me! I think I'm ready to work on my Burda trench now! :)

REVIEWS

Ottobre Tee (previously reviewed here)

I realized that last time, I put the yoke in backwards! Doh! That explains why the neckline was weird! I played around with doing a gathered overlay on the yoke but the fabric was too heavy/bouncy. I finished the top and my binding was HORRID. I ended up ripping out all of the binding Friday night and cutting/sewing new bindings on Saturday. I still don't like the sleeve bindings. IF I used this pattern again, I'd just hem the sleeves.

I added some flat piping because why not!?

Size &Adjustments: 44 with slightly widened sleeve openings (cause, biceps)

Fabric: rayon jersey in an icy blue-grey from SR Harris that is heavy enough and opaque enough that it could have been a dress.

Construction: fully constructed on the serger, hemmed with the coverstitch

I like this top and will wear it. It's the perfect blue-grey, it fits fine and is a nice length. And the shoulder yoke adds a little something extra. But I probably won't use this pattern again.

McCall's 7465 (previously reviewed here)

I LOVE the pink version and wear it but it's a little clingy! I usually wear my tricot slip with it. This Art Gallery knit was purchased FOR this pattern. I bought it right after I made the pink version which was last June! Then I hurt my hand, didn't sew for forever, and then it was almost fall and a bright floral dress didn't make sense. I've been waiting for this and it did not disappoint!

Size & Adjustments: 14 neckline/shoulder, 16 through the rest. Based on the fit of the other one, ahem, I added 5/8" to the back skirt at the side seam. Next time I'll only add that from waist through thigh.

Fabric: Art Gallery cotton lycra knit from Fabric.com. I'd purchased 1.5 yards, because it's like $18 and I knew I didn't need 2 yards...but then I had to hunt for a scrap to make binding from! LOL! And I couldn't make 'traditional' binding from those scraps so I cut a strip 1.25", sewed it to the neckline, trimmed/graded seams, then turned it to the inside and top stitched.

Construction: Constructed on the serger except for the elastic waist casing and neckline finishing, hemmed with the coverstitch.

I LOVE THIS DRESS. I love every single thing about it. Fabric? Love. Fit? Love. Length? Love. Every single bit of it! I think this pattern elevates to TNT, no? I may try one of the other views someday. You know my "I love this face"...you see it? Right?! :)

 

I even managed to (mostly) match the striped with my miniscule amount of fabric!

Burda 7107 (previously reviewed here)

I wear that green top all.the.time. All the time. I love it so much. I will definitely end up with a black version at some point.

Size & Adjustments: 42 with 1" bicep adjustment and sleeves shortened based on fabric constraints. Side seams sewn at 1/4", waist seam sewn at 1/2"

Fabric: Oatmeal colored rayon jersey from Fashion Fabrics Club.

Construction: Primarily constructed on the sewing machine. Only the side seams and sleeves were done on the serger. I left the center back seam unserged since the fabric is slightly sheer. The ties were partially hemmed on the machine, the rest (bottom all the way around) on the coverstitch.

Swoon. I love this one just as much as the green one! I see myself wearing this a ton. And I love the fabric color and it feels great on...but tissue knits are of the devil. They are right there with stretch cotton poplin and solid rayon challis. EVIL!

Exhibit A of "clearly I am feeling myself in this top"!

McCall's 6964 (previously sewn in 2015 and reviewed on the old blog)

I talked about wanting a couple 'fancy' tees here. And when I found that orange lace at The Sewing Lounge, I could not wait for this to happen!!

 Size & Adjustments: 14 neckline, 16 for the rest. 1" Full bicep adjustment.

Fabric: Wool jersey from Fabric Mart, lace from The Sewing Lounge in St. Paul.

Construction: I tried on one of my other versions of this and decided where the front lace 'yoke' should be. I marked it on the pattern and cut out full fronts and backs and partial yokes (extending about 1" below the line I wanted). I attached the lace to the right side with a zig-zag and then cut away the main fabric. I used my duckbill Ginghers (best purchase ever!) to trim the lace. The binding was also done by machine.

If you mind your markings...

...and sew slowly, things should work out!!

(my neckline looked better (here) before I chose to coverstitch it...but it kept wanting to flip up!)

I think I was most excited about this tee. Maybe more than the Art Gallery print dress. I know that orange (and coral! and yellow!) really, really work for my skin tone so I could not wait. I love it, I adore it, it's awesome, none of that seems to actually sum it up! Perfect wardrobe addition.

I was watching Girlfriends while taking pics and that is a real, geniuine laugh there! LOL

McCall's 6612 (previously sewn here)

I really like both prior versions and wanted a new dress, in a print, for summer. Now, I know this print doesn't read "summer" as it's a little dark...but I thought the colors were nice and different from other things in my wardrobe currently. I saw this dress online and decided to copy the open sleeves with ties at end. SUMMER! LOL!

I realize now that the sleeves really work here because they're loose and blousy

and the bodice is loose and blousy.

No, I did not purposely match the darker 'stripes' on body/sleeves.

It's pretty close though. WIN!

Size & Adjustments: 14 neck/shoulders, 16 bust/waist, 18 hip. Lengthened 2",  1" bicep adjustment, sleeves shortened to 3/4 length and slit with tie closure.

I traced a new sleeve, slit it down the center, slightly curved it through the middle of the sleeve, and added back the seam allowance. I sewed the first 6" of the sleeve and hemmed it the rest of the way. I cut 3" strips of fabric so the bands and ties finished at about 1 1/4".

Fabric: Fabric Mart precut. I'd passed on this one before; I didn't like the striping/chevron much until I saw a dress made from it on Pattern Review. The next time precuts went on sale, I bought it!

Construction: Back neckline is hemmed and shoulder seam sewn on the sewing machine. Side seams and sleeve side seam serged. Slit and tie bands constructed on sewing machine. Sleeve serged to dress...hemmed on the coverstitch.

I was very torn when I had the body constructed. I was going to leave it sleeveless. But then decided it would be limited by the print. I would likely on pair it with black or denim toppers. I pinned the sleeve in place and liked it on the dress form so I decided to move forward. When I first finished it I was torn again! I toyed around with lots of other options for the sleeve (adding another tie just above the elbow, closing it up more, closing it all the way but just leave the tie at the end).

In an effort to ensure it wasn't gaping open (too snug), I actually made the sleeve too big. So it's a bit too loose at the cuff to close the rest of the sleeve (I pinned it and it would look odd) and there was NO WAY I was going to undo all the stitching from adding the lower band/tie to take in the sleeve seam. I do not dislike it! I'm just not sure it works as well as I hoped it would.

I've decided I have to wear it to really assess how I feel about the sleeve.

You're STILL here?! Either you love sewing talk as much as I do or you're just a gluton for punishment! :-p

Now of course, I've sewn these summer things and we're supposed to have rain and cloudy weather this whole week! Good grief!

Until later...