Monday, October 15, 2018

I sewed! I sewed!!!

O. M. G.! lol!!

Life is hectic, work is busy, I am tired, Mojo - gone. There's another piece though to my missing mojo! I mentioned in my September wrap-up that I've lost about 15lbs resulting in a lot of things no longer fitting. When I went to put away my summer clothes I separated the things that didn't fit anymore or that I was just tired of or whatever. The things that needed purging got purged! 

I pulled out fall/winter and ended up in a long try-on session as a lot of those things no longer fit either. And I think that contributed to killing my mojo. Another 15lbs and I'll likely be down another size and don't want to invest a lot into things that may not fit sooner rather than later. So I decided to sew a coat! LOL!

I've wanted this jacket from the 8/2017 Burda mag since forever. It was supposed to be one of my projects this spring but it got back-burnered.
Friday, I got home and was going to SEW. I was ready. I went and got the mag, because I knew I'd started tracing it, and could not find the tracings. I looked in a couple of spots where it could have possibly been misplaced and nothing. I was so dejected! I did not want to start over. After whining about it for awhile, I decided to get to work. 

And then I opened the pattern sheets and ta-da! My tracings were neatly folded inside the sheets. WHEW.

I'd traced a BUNCH and added seam allowances!

I used the dryer method to treat my fabric, which I got in a By the Piece deal at Fabric Mart. $21 for 2.5 yards of 100% wool melton!! The buttons I bought for it cost more than that!

Oh wait, after I found the pattern pieces, I couldn't find my fabric! LOL!!! And the fabric and lining had gotten separated. Sheesh!!!!

I opted to do the small parts first and started on the pockets.

Once I got to this point though, I realized there was no way I'd be able to cleanly stitch that flat that's doubled wool. I ended up recutting the flaps with lining vs double fabric. I also decided not to do the topstitching.

And I stitched those pockets by hand! I will topstitch the flap down.
(this was before steaming to set the hand stitches) 

I got the back completely assembled, the fronts adjusted (I moved my dior dart when doing an FBA and don't think I should doesn't look bad but it's just a tad lower than would be most aesthetically pleasing), and the fronts assembled. I also sewed the collar unit and it's ready to attach.

I'm so excited about this!

On Sunday, I woke up to this:

And aside from going out for breakfast and washing a load of clothes, I did almost next to nothing yesterday. Oops! LOL! 

I still need to adjust the sleeves -- full bicep adjustment and lengthen them (they're 7/8 length as designed). I should be able to get the shell completed this week and hopefully the lining over the weekend!

It's starting to cool down quite a bit but, if you live in a cold climate, you have that initial shock when the temps drop...then you adjust. 35 isn't "cold" because we've got another 30-50 degrees to drop in "real" winter! 

So that and the fact that we have some more 40-50 degree days coming and I should get a good amount of usage this fall still...and at the start of spring ("spring") :)

Until later!

Update: WIP Pic! Still so much to do...and I was careful (I thought) and still got shine marks. I Googled suggestions on removal and will try it on a scrap. Fingers crossed. I don't know that I care though because I am loving it! :-D

Tuesday, October 9, 2018

McCall's 7745 Mod

Remember when I used my beautiful floral rayon challis to make the nightmarish M7745?

 I wear this dress grudgingly.
It's pretty. So pretty.
I love the fabric.
I love the skirt.

The bodice was an absolute nightmare. But the skirt!!! :-)

I used the skirt pieces as is and knew I wanted to draft a contoured waistband vs. straight.

I don't know how to draft a waistband.

I traced the waistline of the skirt pieces onto tracing paper, decided on a 'height' and used my French curve to finish the upper part, then added seam allowances. I hadn't even cut it out of fabric before I realized it was strangely sloped at the sides. So I cut it out and then used that as a template to shape it better. I think it came out okay...but it's an exercise I'd actually like to learn to do properly.

The fabric is actually cotton shirting! I fell in love with the plaid pattern and colors and decided way back in April when I ordered it that it would one day become a skirt from this pattern.

I paid a little attention to plaid matching at the side seams and did not think ONCE about the waistband. Oy! But look at that beautiful ruffle!!!!

It was cut size 16 and added a CB seam. I handled the ruffle the same as before; rolled hem on my machine (it works really well!!) and gathered in 3 sections. I sewed it on and had sewn the skirt to itself. For like, 15"! LOL!!!!!!!!! Unpicked it and did it again! But only for a few inches. So after all of THAT unpicking...I made a tiny hole in my fabric. I put some fraycheck on it and kind of folded the skirt on itself where the hole was and put some black interfacing over it. With the print and the can't even tell.

Also, I opted for skinny ties vs wider ones more integrated with the waistband. And I hate making a pass-through hole for the belt in a true wrap. If you look closely in the pic above you'll see my little elastic loop; there's a button on the interior of the waistband.

I had spent so much time on the ruffle and the unpicking and resewing that I opted to do a "clean" waistband facing. I am 100% for serging it and leaving it be. I have no problems with it and it's what I do like 95% of the time. Every now and then I add bias tape. I do like how nicely this looks though!

I have not had time to get pics and this has been finished 2 weeks AND we're in a never-ending cycle of rain and gray skies so I'll have to use the (still, not that good) photo I took the first time I wore it:

LOVE. I'm so glad I didn't set this pattern on fire like I wanted to after making the dress!

In other news, I am mojo-less. It happens. I know it'll come back. This time even reorganizing fabric, flipping through Burda or looking at patterns has triggered the mojo. We'll see...

Monday, October 1, 2018

September Wrap-up and October Plans

Seriously? September is over? Just like that?!?!?

I was feeling pretty blah at the start of the month. I made a lot of things this month; most super easy (knits) and TNT patterns or patterns I've used before. It definitely ups the productivity!

I have lost maybe 15lbs since spring and I don't feel like I look very different...but so many things no longer fit. My wonderfulfantasticamazinglysewn V9032 pants, skirt and dress from that black wool suiting don't fit anymore. I seem to have stabilized at this ~178-180lbs so maybe I'll take them in. I hate, so much. I get to sew new things! But I get sad that some favorites no longer work :( Working with patterns that have been made before helps fill the gaps a bit faster.

This month I sewed 6 things and 10.25 yards:

  • McCall's 7745 skirt hack - 2 yards
    • plaid cotton shirting
    • snap

  • Burda 4/2014 trench skirt hack - 2.25 yards
    • stretch twill
    • buttons, zipper, decorative "ring" (it's a triangle...)

  • Ottobre 5/2017 cardigan -2 yards
    • print jersey
    • cording

  • McCall's 6964 tee - 1 yard
    • slub jersey

  • McCall's 6886 tee hack - 1.25 yards
    • slub jersey

  • Simplicity 2369 dress - 1.75 yards (WIP)
    • print ITY
Favorite: The short sleeved tee. You thought I was going to say the skirt, right? :) I do love it but the tee shirt is just perfection. I have worn it 3 times already and just finished it about a week ago! LOL!!

The McCall's skirt hack is a close runner up. It works out so absolutely perfectly as a skirt. The dress is beautiful but that bodice is t.r.a.s.h.!

Accomplishment: The trench skirt! Maybe it's about time I stop mentioning my dislike/disinterest in 'hacking'. It just depends on how badly I want the thing I want :)

FAILS: I have a version of S2369 that was sewn in 2015 and I absolutely love it. It's from an ITY and I wear it very, very often.

For the current one, the ITY I chose was one of FM designer brands and I liked the fabric and it has an abstract geometric print and I love the color...but am not loving the dress on me. At all. :( I don't mind it with a topper but otherwise it doesn't move me. I'm going to finish it and see if I wear it. Meh.

October plans:
I don't have any?? I have a short list but mentioned not being able to fit a few of my basics. I had to attend a memorial service on Saturday and had to quickly take in my black skirt through the hips. I can't fit my black trousers, can't fit my black dress and just pulled out and washed my fall clothes so we'll see what may need to be replaced.

I'd posted this before; I've sewn the two on the upper left (S2359 from the orange/white ITY and Ottobre 5/2017 from the black/white jersey) and the lower right (M7745 skirt). So far, I'm still working from these fabrics. 

Also, I fussed about my order, they finally sent me a return label, then life happened and I forgot about it. I "found" the box this weekend and now it's too late to return them. So I may incorporate some of those solid crepe and challis fabrics into my plans for blouses as I need a bunch more solid colored tops and dresses. I have a lot of drapey blouses I want. Also, I saw this RTW chambray dress and am thinking about copying it. 

So basically, we'll see which way the wind blows!

Thursday, September 27, 2018

TNT Tees (and a near miss!)

Well...Tees from TNTs?? :)

I have been wearing two sleeveless tees (I don't call them tanks because they really look like a t-shirt in fit but without sleeves!) from American Eagle. I was very surprised by how much I liked the fit of them when I bought them. Scored on clearance and why I got two of them :) Well, they are looking a little worse for wear now, which happens.

My current go-to for t-shirts is McCall's 6964 (I recently purchased the InHouse Jenny and will give it a try soon!). They aren't something I wear a ton (kind of like jeans), but a girl still needs SOME t-shirts! I've made it a few times and when I scored this lightweight , slightly sheer slub knit from KOKOON, a local designer, I knew I was going to make a mini-wardrobe of t-shirts from it.

No adjustments from any other version of this pattern that I've made. I cut a size 14 neckline, 16 for the rest, with a 1" bicep adjustment. I constructed it on the serger and coverstitch except for the neckline; I always sew v-necks via machine so I can get it as close to perfect as possible!

This pattern piece fits the neckline perfectly - just mind your markings!!

Last winter I decided I needed a couple long sleeved tees. I have a heathered gray one that gets a lot of wear in the winter and because Tundra = Layers, I decided I should have a white one! I may need a navy one too... :)

M6886 is cut with a 14 neckline/shoulder, 16 bust and waist, 18 hip. I also did a 1" bicep adjustment.

I used M6886 because I LOVE that super round scoop neck on me. 

I was really amazed by how different the pattern pieces are wrt to the neckline and shoulder! M6886 is really fitted so I used the M6964 to shape the side seams.
Maybe it isn't completely evident here but I feel like M6886 has more pooling in back. The front pattern piece on 6964 was quite a bit wider/straighter than 6886 but the back was slightly slimmer, which I found interesting! 

I like the higher back neckline and that the neckline is less open for the long sleeved tee. I can see creating a new TNT pattern that from this combo.I think removing a bit of the shaping from the back pattern piece side seam may help with some of the pooling. But I will not be adding a CB seam to my t-shirts.
Wanted to show a layered look for fall

The trench is actually a dress. It fit through the body but gaped ridiculously at the armholes...but I think it was like $8!!! so I got it anyway to wear as a vest. SCORE.

The shoes are BP Kari Bow Flats from Nordstrom. I LOVE these shoes but they are sold out now :(  They came in a bunch of colors too! I actually contacted Nordstrom to find out if they would be restocking them! LOL! But they said no. Boooooo!

Love both of these and they will get a lot of wear! The piece of fabric I bought was 4.4 yards. I've made these two and still have 2 full yards and a nice extra chunk. That's going in stash for when I need to replace one of these :)

Excuse my crazy face in the center pic! LOL!!!!! I was trying to snap a pic before work and the clicker didn't seem like it was clicking. But ALL of the pics look like this so... :-)

And Wilson the cat's crazy facial expression...
I had declared this cardigan a wadder. When I finished it, I tried it on with a black top and my favorite teal straight skirt. I thought it looked terrible! I tried it on to take pics because it was going in the donate bag. I like it MUCH more with long/slim fitting garments underneath e.g., jeans, leggings and even liked it with this M7465 dress.

This is Ottobre 5/2017 mentioned in my September planning post. I cut a straight size 42 and did a 1" bicep adjustment. The miles of hemming wasn't the most fun ever but it's a pretty straightforward sew.  I bought this cording to use as a tie instead of self-tie and I really like it. It is too stiff to be tied in a bow though so I'll need to shorten it.

I don't know what I was doing with the tie! LOL!!!

We'll see if I can make it work in the wardrobe!

September turned out SUPER productive. I have a skirt to review, a dress, and a 2-year old UFO! YOWZA!

Sunday, September 23, 2018

A long time coming...Burda 4/2014 skirt

I came across this pic last October and decided I needed a trench skirt.

The patterns I found were generally A-line or fuller and I wanted a pencil shape. I've also had this skirt from the 4/2014 issue on the brain since back then.

I decided the silhouette and seaming made for a great starting point for my inspiration skirt.

I used a size 42 front and 44 back. It is VERY high-waisted. Oy! I have a short torso so I removed 1" from the "cummerbund" as Burda calls it. I could have removed another 1/2". I knew I wanted welt pockets and attempted to redraft the pocket bags from these inseam pockets - it didn't go that well! LOL!!! I almost serged off the pocket bags to just leave mock-pockets. I didn't but I have tiny, barely usable pockets.

I freehanded the storm flap. I had intentions on anchoring it in the side seam but totally forgot and sewed up that seam. I had already trimmed and graded and top-stitched an was not about to redo it I just topstitched it in place like you would a pocket flap.

Construction was fairly straightforward once I had my idea down - it's a pencil skirt! I got it basted and tried it on, let it out through the waist and high hip, then realized it was 'that time' and sat it aside. When I came back to it, I went BACK and sewed all the seams at the original 5/8" seam allowance. I did not topstitch the facing in place.

I rarely add hem allowance to Burda patterns and so I skipped it. But I really liked the length of this unhemmed. I was going to do a facing but then...

I was going to make buttonholes (but not cut them), and the first one was terrible but salvageable since I wasn't going to open it. But then I did the second one and it was completely mangled. I thought the skirt was a wadder! At the very end!!!!

Instructions for removing buttonholes is to remove the stitching on back and remove them from the front. But this is a stretch twill and those tiny zigzag stitches (in this textured fabric) were NOT going to go quietly! I did my best, steamed it a bunch and moved my button markings over just a tad to try to cover the mistake. I think I'm okay with it NOW.

So after all that, I folded up a 5/8" hem, topstitched, and considered it done! :)

I went back and forth on whether or not I was going to have functional front buttons for the closure...or if I would sew the front closed and add the zipper in back.  In the end, because it's a pencil, I decided to use a zipper. I didn't want to potentially have gaping along the button-front.

You can see where I did diagonal stitching on the front so the lower fronts could remain free from each other. The front is hemmed and then topstitched down.
If you look closely, you can maybe see the not fully removed buttonholes??

Invisible zipper, bias tape finish to the facing, hand stitched facings to zipper

I really, really, really like it. I remember ordering this 'gingerbread' Thakoon twill from Fabric Mart and when it arrived, I did NOT like it. I think that's part of the reason I waited so long to make the skirt. I couldn't bring myself to buy more fabric for this project and then nearly as soon as I started cutting out, the color really started to grow on me. I am SO happy with it now. Maybe because it feels very 'fall'?? Idk, it works!

The only thing I wish I would have done differently is the width of the belt (not from the pattern dimensions). This fabric is kind of stiff  and it could have been slightly narrower. But I didn't have enough fabric to cut a new belt and had already topstitched this one, and was NOT about to take it apart to cut it down! LOL!!! Not. Happening!!

The outtakes that made me smile :)

IDK why I look so over it! LOL!

I don't know what I was looking at!

Also, I was in these booties for a matter of minutes; I am side eyeing all the fashion bloggers styling outfits with booties. And it's only about 70 degrees in Minneapolis today. Too soon. Too, too soon! :)

I went from being unsure if I would be productive in September to having 5 finished projects already! LOL! I have a couple TNTs and a fail :( coming to the blog this week! 

Until later!