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Sunday, October 22, 2017

Vogue 1522 and Simplicity 1366

Fabric two-fer!

I first saw V1522 made up on Erica Bunker's blog, and then saw a couple more versions pop up. I was intrigued by the fit and that cute sleeve detail.

I bought this poly georgette because I was enamored with the print; even though I tend to avoid shifty polyester fabrics. I've had my fill of frustration with them. However, this fabric wasn't too tough to work with once you got it laid out on grain.

I had the larger size range in stash (I'm sure because I was interested in the pant too). Based on the grading between L, XL, XXL, I graded the neckline and shoulder down to a medium and did a full bicep adjustment. Beyond that, the only other adjustment I made was to shorten the top 3/4" once it was constructed. I could really see making this one again and if I did, I'd shorten the sleeve an inch. They are WAY longer than on the model!

Sorry, my camera lens was a little dirty!
I love it so much!

pants are V1411


Oh yeah, BLACK AND WHITE PRINTS ARE MY FAVORITE!!! :)

The top went together quite well...save for all the times I had to unpick stuff. My own mistakes, not the pattern's fault, at all. I'd sewn the bias strip to the first sleeve 'upside down'. I was NOT careful sewing the bias tape to my neckline and had to rip the whole thing out. I made some other weird, random mistakes too. Sigh.

Also, the pattern has you set the sleeve flat. I did, but on the left sleeve I sewed gathering stitches first and eased it. Now it fits weird compared to the right one. Sigh.

I'd done some sample serging and got my differential and tension all right ( I was not about to try to French seam this poly fabric...blergh). I sewed and serged seams then pressed to one side (vs pressing the seam open - that wasn't working). It took a press on the wool setting with steam and my block-of-wood-functioning-as-a-clapper. It is finished with a narrow hem (closer to 3/8" on each turn than 1/4" because of the spongy nature of the fabric). The sleeve flounce is finished with a rolled hem by machine.

It's so pretty!!!!


Bias strip + rolled hem

French binding on the neckline

This was the first time in a LONG time that I was focused on finishing a garment to wear the next day. I really, really like this one and excitedly put it on Monday morning. I have a bathroom selfie to prove it! Hahaha!



As I was considering fabrics for S1366, I thought...hmmm, I have a big enough chunk of this georgette left over...why not?! Because, b&w print! This pattern uses one piece for front and back-cut on the bias, has a pattern piece for the roleau straps, and a facing. I opted out of the facing and cut a 16 with 14 neckline/armholes. I decided to finish the top with binding and narrow hem. Because the print is good and busy, I bartacked the straps in place front and back.



I was of course, dubious about the same piece being used for front and back. Now that I've worn it, I DEFINITELY need to create separate pattern pieces. I will do an FBA on the front piece and need to figure out a swayback adjustment on the back. I don't want a CB seam though. Wondering if I can do a 'T' shaped slash (side seam to side seam and waist to hem) and overlap at CB?? We shall see. I may give the facings a try next time. I think I would be okay with binding if it were double fold...but I'd only make double fold bias tape in a natural fiber (too much drama otherwise!). I have to remake it though, for sure!!

I like the length as is...and the width on the back piece is okay...




Now, the front fits better with a regular bra. I put on my strapless but it is really meant to hike 'em up! LOL!! The front sits a bit smoother in a regular bra as well but it still needs some adjustments.

I like the overall fit, the length is just right, and I am a very happy camper! It will certainly make it again!

Friday, October 20, 2017

Fabric Love

I have TWO finished items to share but need photos--the post is ready to go.  I think I can get them done tomorrow - it does promise to be a super busy Saturday though so we'll see. But in the meantime...

I was feeling all extra good about my short list of wants. And work has been a little quiet this week and extra quiet today. I came home for lunch and decided to trace the cropped jacket (Burda 3/2017 #101). What do you know...my Fabric Mart order is on the porch.
Well, well, well! I am enamored with 8 of the 9 items and so here we are! lol! :) I have to resist the urge to not dump all of my plans and go the "OOH! SHINY!!!" route.

 
This large plaid suiting was purchased with the intent on making a skirt. Something that will allow me to play with that print. A Burda perhaps?? I'm not sure!

 
 
I liked this but almost skipped it because I thought it read "camo". Sorry - but I hate camouflage garments. Hate. Hate. Hate.
 
I'm glad I got it. It's a really cool color combination on this burnout jersey!!

 
I like this lightweight cotton sweater knit because of the colorway, the stripes and the appearance of texture. My initial thought was to make a cozy cardigan. I have 3 yards of it!

 
Twice I added, removed and then went back and added this suiting. I love the stripe effect and the not-realistic animal print. I think it's kind of bold for me but a fun way to wear the more classic dress styles I like. As mentioned before, I work in a casual dress office but I'm not much of a casual dresser. So something like this, paired with a cardigan or jacket would work.

 
This is a denim-look double weave suiting. I love the color and plan to use it for my trench.
I've spent a long time looking for a poplin or twill in *THIS* color. And, I plan on using it. I'll have to see of course how it reacts to interfacing and topsitching. Fingers crossed! This will certainly be an end-of-winter project.

 
Yes. Yes. YES! I love this so much. It is begging to be a fall dress, like, NOW!

 
Okay, this looks like not much of anything. But it's an ahh-mazing rayon/acetate/lycra suiting! The weight and drape is just fantastic. No immediate plans, but I'm happy I have it!

 
Clearly the description "leaf green" escaped me because I was surprised it was so light. This is my one 'meh' item.

SQUEEEEE! It's really soft and pretty. Ahhhhh.
 
V1569 perhaps??
I love their use of a vertical stripe.
AND, I somehow only ordered 2 yards (not sure why when I was certain I intended to order 4 yards) but FM being awesome, I got 3 1/8! Yay me!
 
And, V1569 along with 1574 (Betzina jacket), 9281 (off shoulder top), 9285 (top with SLEEVES!), 9279 (princess seamed dress) and 9278 (slip dress) are on their way to me! I woke up to that sale email from Vogue and don't think I had gotten out of the bed before I ordered! :-D
 
Here's a pic of S1366 on Lily...it's the same fabric I used for V1522.
 
 
We've had a stretch of 70+ degree weather. And while I'm definitely still sewing for fall, I have no motivation to sew the wool fleece Burda coat right now.  So now the plan is the cropped jacket and my daughter's M7627. That top has a whole lot of time commitment so I'll be happy to have something else going on for when I want to sew but can't muster up the energy to deal with that crazy top of craziness!

(where did October go?!)

Sunday, October 15, 2017

Ottobre 5/2017 #4


This sweatshirt is from the most recent Ottobre woman. I thought it was a great casual item and knew it would be a great pattern for the black wool sweatshirt knit that was too thick for the pattern I originally intended it for.


This is my second Ottobre. I sewed the first with a 44 neckline/shoulder and 46 for the rest. The top was too large but I thought it was perhaps due to the very heavy knit I'd used. This time I used a 42 for the neck/shoulder and 44 for the rest. MUCH better.

I  could should have done a bicep adjustment. I somehow keep forgetting that even though it will "fit"-- it won't fit as intended / with respect to the rest of the pattern -- if I don't do an adjustment.


The front pockets are cool but your fabric needs to not have much drape in order for them not to collapse.  The front pattern piece has an extension and then you sew the other pocket piece to the lower front. You then attach the lower front to upper front, sewing the pocket bag together as you go. The front is then stitched with a zig zag (or bar tack).

I finished it, tried it on and was not that happy! The shoulder and neck fit beautifully but it was otherwise quite saggy.

It clicked that it was too long. I cut as much length as possible (couldn't do anymore because of the pockets)

sorry for the blurry photo

I then removed the stitching from the band

cut right along the seam line


I think it looks much better - I didn't get a before photo :/

It's quite a simple basic but I really like it! I think it'll get a ton of wear this fall/winter. It's SO cozy and I really like the fit!

I am working on the top from Vogue 1522 in a polyester georgette (wahhhhh!). I wrote out a big wish list (22 items!!) and sorted them of what I want NOW (the blue lines) :)



I then TRIED to sort the #1 items (pink highlighter) but couldn't! LOL! My short list includes:

Burda 8/2017 coat in red-orange wool fleece
Burda 3/2017 cropped jacket in blue textured suiting
Vogue 1522 top in black/white print poly georgette
Simplicity 1366 camisole I'm not sure yet...thinking either a neutral or a very bright color
Burda 10/2014 shirtdress in plum crepe
Burda 10/2014 knit dress with cowl in black/white print jersey
New Look 6524 dress in pale grey crepe
Burda 11/2017 skirt in plum crepe suiting

There's no outfit planning here; just focusing on holes in the wardrobe and wants based on fabric and pattern stash.

Friday, October 13, 2017

Can We Talk About This Vogue Release?

I don't discuss them often anymore...but it's been a very long time since I've made a note of 8-9 VOGUE! patterns that I want!

My "must buy at the very next sale" list:

 I want more jackets. I've been saying that for forever...but I really love this. You know I'm all about a peplum and I love this collar and the other details.


"Should" I buy/make a slip dress? Perhaps not. But I want one. And Vogue made this with cup sizing and so it shall be!!!

 
I'm just into the sleeve lately. And I know this collar/neckline may not work for me (full bust+short neck) but...it's pretty!
 
 
 I think this top (9281) is ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL!!! I love the fit and flare and the off-shoulder aspect.
 
My "like to have" list:
 
 This dress is just cool/interesting.
Part of me feels I shouldn't pay 'Vogue pricing' for this but I am digging it! I will double check Burda first.
I kind of hate that candy pink color but the dress is nice. Feminine but not saccharine.
Marcy Tilton always makes cool jackets. I've made a couple and love the quirkiness of them. I could see this one (the shorter length) for sure.
 
My "honorable mentions list that I kind of want and will probably end up buying once someone sews them" list: 

This top!!! I adore it! I am not into the skirt. So not sure I'll buy it...but maybe. You know all it takes is to see one fantastic version and then it'll be a done deal! :) 
 
 
I'm not into wide legged pants right now but I could see having this in the collection for when I swing back that way.
 
Others:
 
The pattern is fine...but it's this fabric that's making me call out this pattern (9286). This Veronica Beard fabric has been at Fabric Mart for awhile. I remember wanting it but didn't know how I'd use it. Well it's now in the 80% off section and I have some on the way after seeing this!!
 
 
Most of these  Kathryn Brenne shrugs, etc (9291) didn't do anything for me and I probably won't buy this pattern, but this is gorgeous. And especially for the holiday season. It's so pretty.
 
There are some great dresses and a dramatic cape and a lovely coat and a nice men's jacket in this release as well. GO VOGUE!
 
****
 
I haven't been in the sewing room much at all this week but I did trace off the Ottobre pattern yesterday. I have black thread in the serger AND coverstitch so I'm going to do that quick before sewing my Burda coat.
 
Fall weather is HERE in Minneapolis and I've had a great week (IMO!) of cool outfits that has me ready to take off in a specific direction for my fall sewing. I hope to make a planning post soon!
 
And I've been wearing my new jacket non-stop :-D  


Sunday, October 8, 2017

774+ Days Later...Butterick 6141

On 8/26/15 I blogged that I'd gotten started on this jacket. I'd sewn the lining and assembled the fronts and backs. About a year later (8/31/16), I decided to finish it. (oops) Here we are ANOTHER year plus later and HUZZAH! It's done!



So, please don't expect any actual sewing details because it's a years old WIP - sorry. LOL! Okay, fine. I know I used a size 16, did an FBA and lowered the bust point, I did a swayback adjustment and a bicep adjustment. I know this from the adjusted pattern pieces, I do not know the amounts of these adjustments. All seams were sewn with 5/8" allowances. The fabric was purchased in December 2013 from Fabric Mart; it's a cotton faille.

When I pulled it out last year, I was completely confused by the collar. It wasn't matching the picture. I kept that in my back pocket all this time. I finally pulled the instructions back out and guess what? I was looking at the wrong view.

Seriously.  Sigh.

I'd gotten it all bagged and finished and DOH! I forgot to shorten the sleeve lining. So I had to undo that and fix it but of course, total necessity.

The fabric was tough to cut and sew and easy to press, thankfully. But today, my hand isn't playing nice and the fine motor skills required for pressing vs ironing, wasn't happening. I'll come back to it.

I also hate inseam pockets. Blergh. They're just too far back.

I LOVE EVERYTHING ABOUT THIS JACKET!!!!! 


Oh! This sew called snaps which I was pretty sure I purchased some larger ones. I couldn't find them but remembered these clear buttons. They are a perfect fit!



I am so excited that I finally finished it and that it's just a cute fall jacket. It is voluminous but it's so.cute!!


I find this picture so cute <3


Lastly, I didn't advance in the PR Bee. It was fun and challenging and I'm glad I did it...but I also totally understand why people do it and NEVER do it again! LOL!

I am totally going to sew my BRIGHT Burda coat for the wool coat contest though! I'm not going to make the Burda pants this month. I do plan to sew my daughter's top, and I want to sew this sweatshirt from Ottobre.



October will be 'light'; my hand is kicking my butt again. I think that vest did me in. Until later!