Sunday, June 17, 2018

McCall's 7745: A Close Call



This pattern almost got the best of me. You've probably seen a whole bunch of versions of this one and they look pretty good too! The bodice on this pattern stinks.

I'm sure it probably works for someone. But eesh.

It has cup sizing and my 'normal' Big4 size is a 14 with FBA. I chose a 14 C-cup and graded the waist to a 16 and I used a size 16 skirt. I lowered the bust dart an inch and was ready to go!

Grrr.

The bodice was HUGE. I took it in through the front raglans, I took it in through the side seams - twice - leaving the waist size in tact. I didn't want to line it because this challis is sort of heavy. I drafted a facing and then I accidentally sewed the front facings reversed. And sewed it to the bodice. And trimmed and graded it. And understitched it. And then I had to unpick it all. So then I decided to use bias tape and should have just made some. I have no issue making bias tape! And I used store bought and I didn't have enough black so I used red because it should be concealed, right? NO! Not in the giant bodice of giant-ness! Wahhhhhh. I'm not going to lie and say I'm going to redo it. LOL! And I don't think the fabric could take being picked out again.

The fabric I LOVE. I bought this quite awhile ago from Fabric Mart. When I find florals on a dark background I have to have it. I picked up 3.5 yards and there was a Burda I was going to use at first but I fell in love with the skirt on this pattern. Without the drafting weirdness, it's already a so-so for me; true wrap (I just said I don't like them!) and it's a raglan. But the skirt! And the fabric!! So I whined and grumbled and whined and grumbled and kept going. I am glad I finished it but may plans of maybe sewing view A? ehhhh. I'll likely use the skirt again though.

I've seen that "wing" on the back sleeve of most versions

This view also shows an issue I have with the neck ruffle. It's super cute in front but around the shoulder and back it looks like clown suit :(  I LOVE THE SKIRT!!!!

I bought another cut of fabric to make the skirt and then the thought of hemming and gathering that ruffle made me think twice. I have two rolled hem feet; one I bought when I bought a collection of feet for my other Singer and one that came with the Quantum Stylist. WORLDS different. I have avoided doing rolled hems because it was always awful. 

The left is the 'good' one and the right is the sucky one.

I did the neckline ruffle with the bad one and it was SO frustrating. It did not go well at all and I don't know if it'll hold.


Lots of areas where it didn't roll under

I switched to the other foot and WOW!!!  The entire (ENTIRE!) length of the skirt ruffle is perfection. Woohoo!! 


The skirt ruffle is 6 pieces. I sewed them all together and hemmed, and to gather I sewed gathering stitches on two sections at a time - 3 total 'groups' to gather.

It's so ruffly! :-D and you can see my red bias tape :-(
But you can see my new shoes! :-D 

The lower back fit without a swayback adjustment
But again with the sleeve wings and if you can't tell, the back neckline sits WAY away from my neck

As mentioned, I lowered the bust dart and it's still super high. And even with taking in the side seams of the bodice, it's weirdly baggy in areas. 


But it's SO pretty! LOL!!!!!

As it goes with sewing...that black & white Burda wrap dress was perfectly fine, fit well, I loved the fabric but just didn't like wearing the dress. This dress gave me FITS! But I am smitten. 

I spent a lot of time on my hair today and then went outside in what must have been 1,000% humidity and now it's completely flat. Booooo! 


Wednesday, June 13, 2018

New Look 6107 & Vogue 9032

 
I'm not sure how long this pattern has been on my radar but it's been a long time. It's so pretty and feminine but also just a great everyday workwear type of item. I think I was avoiding it because I knew it would work best in something with drape. And drape + fiddly bits = not so fun. But I also knew that my sewing skills should allow me to make this top successfully.
 
I found this fabric on the trip to Fabric Mart during sew camp. It's rayon but I can't remember if it was challis or crepe. It has some nice weight to it, drapes well and is completely opaque. I bought two 2-yard precuts because I could see using the fabric for a dress in the future.
 
IMO NL necklines are for the broad-shouldered. I used a size 14, tuck a small tuck on the neckline (~1/4"), did a 1" FBA rotated into the shoulder gathers (it does have front and back vertical darts) and a 1" bicep adjustment. I could use a swayback adjustment as well.
 
I chose to go ahead with the single layer yoke and just serged the seams. The fabric loops were a pain. Turning the tube was no problem but then I swear I made them all the same length and marked the fabric AND basted them before sewing. They are not even. One or two are too small for the buttons and one is too big. IDK what happened.
 
My buttons are pretty shell buttons with a shank from Sewing Lounge in St. Paul.  
 
I love the colors!
 
 

Being silly :-p The neckline is so flattering!
 
Speaking of...way back when, I went to Mexico on vacation. I was determined to lie by the pool and soak up the sun and indeed I did! Without sunscreen! Because I had literally never worn - never OWNED - sunscreen in my life. Well, when I got back home I learned I was sunburnt. All over. My skin peeled and peeled and peeled and thus I learned my lesson.
 
Us 'melanated' folk have some built in sun protection by virtue of our brown skin...so normal day to day outings I do not use sunscreen aside from what is built into whatever personal care products I use (I am annoyed that so many moisturizers are now SPF 1000 (exaggeration but still)...
 
So when I went to Puerto Rico, I bought sunscreen! I was ready!! And I put it on my arms and shoulders and back and legs and nose and...apparently not my chest. Doh.
 
It wasn't until I was looking at these pics that I was like HOLY COW! I burned my chest!!! Oops!
 
Behold the nice flat neckline and soft shoulder gathers <3

Self loops, button band, facings
 
I wasn't clear on the intersection between the facing and the bias tape so I winged it. Luckily the fabric is well-behaved and was pressed into compliance :)

 
 I LOVE this top but kind of feel like it's a "cool weather" print, if that makes sense.

Way, way, way back in February I cut out a taupe pair of V9032 (pair #8 or #9). I felt like I needed 'tan' pants. I had them basted and could not zip them, even with the seam allowances at the minimum. I set them aside. When I picked them back up while cleaning/organizing my sewing space, they were too big as basted. Yay! I even had to take the back waist in a bit. I finished them up and happily added them to the wardrobe.

In the meantime, I bought 3 different pairs of tan/taupe pants and returned them all. Now that these are finished I don't find myself reaching for them much.  Kind of like "needing" a classic white button front shirt but I really didn't...

C'est la vie.
still don't like how the fly shield + waistband is finished. Totally need to change it.
I used a sew in snap instead of button for the interior closure.

Look at that waistband intersection! boom! pow!!
I am fairly certain I did a blind hem by machine. The fabric is a rayon/wool blend (Fabric Mart) so it was very easy to press out any possible pricks in the fabric.



I could see myself making this top again...eventually...

Friday, June 8, 2018

May Wrap-up & June Plans

May was a pretty epic month, mostly due to sew-a-palooza. I sewed 14 things this month and 22.75 yards. I sewed nearly 6 of those things in one weekend! And one is still in progress...

This month I sewed:
  • New Look 6107 top - 2 yards
    • print rayon challis from Fabric Mart trip, buttons
  • True Bias Ogden top (x 2) - 2.5 yards total
    • print rayon challis from Fabric.com, black & white challis from stash remnants
  • Burda 1/2018 skirt - 2.5 yards
    • black & white floral cotton pique from Metro Textiles, zipper, bias tape
  • Vogue 9305 top - 2 yards (Gift)
    • brown designer quality linen from Fabric Mart
  • Ottobre 2/2015 top - 1 yards
    • blue-grey jersey from SR Harris
  • McCall's 7465 dress - 1.5 yards
    • Art Gallery cotton knit from Fabric.com, elastic
  • McCall's 6612 dress - 1.5 yards
    • print jersey from Fabric Mart precut
  • McCall's 6964 top - 1.25 yards
    • orange wool jersey from Fabric Mart, orange lace from The Sewing Lounge
  • Burda 7107 top - 1.5 yards
    • oatmeal rayon jersey
  • McCall's 6519 top - 1 yard
    • print rayon challis from SR Harris, self fabric bias tape (this pattern really doesn't take 1 yard...but I diy'd the bias tape so I'm rounding up!)
  • Burda 6/2018 top - 1.5 yards
    • white rayon jersey, trim
  • Butterick 6551 dress - 1.5 yards (FAIL)
    • striped cotton poplin from SR Harris
  • McCall's 7745 dress - 3 yards (WIP)
    • floral rayon challis from Fabric Mart
WHEW.

Favorite: I had such a successful sewing binge! YAY! This month there's a lot to love. I seriously cannot choose a favorite garment.

FAIL: Obviously B6551 and I have my fingers crossed that M7745 works out. I have done so much unpicking and re-stitching. Luckily it's a really robust challis!

Accomplishment: Let's go with seeing the vision for my orange knit + lace tee and making it come to life!

I have a lot going on right now (hence sew-a-palooza!). I placed two fabric orders this month; Fabric.com for a total of 10.5 yards and Fabric Mart for a total of 21 yards. And I visited SR Harris and bought 8.5 yards.

There was fabric all.over.the.place. I collected all of the fabric acquired since the sew camp (because THAT giant box was still sitting in the same place). And then I cried. I know I wasn't actually crying over the fabric -- (and I never cry. Nothing makes me cry!) but obviously with everything else it was all so overwhelming.

I sorted it out - by season then by type (knit vs woven). I went through my Expedit and fabric tubs one by one and came up with a huge pile of fabric to donate/get rid of. I stored the remaining fabric. I have temporarily unsubscribed from emails. I won't say "I'm not buying fabric until xx time"...but I am definitely taking a fabric-shopping break. This year I have purchased 197.5 yards and sewn 79 yards. I need to get that ratio back in check!

I don't have the energy to do anything that's not absolutely necessary as there's just TOO MUCH stuff on my plate. So for June, I'm not sure I'll get anything sewn. I do hope I can find the time to make a birthday dress as I've done for the past few years. And hopefully I can finish M7745. I am not 100% sold on it but I love the style of the dress and I love the fabric so we'll see.



bodice and skirt are not attached here
 
I am not looking forward to hemming and gathering the ruffle for the skirt
 

If nothing else, I have a couple items that still need to be reviewed and have posts scheduled for those.

I did finish out MMM...IDK what happened to the 31st. I am completely blank on that day.
May 22-26:
Ottobre top
Ogden cami, M6996 cardigan, Lekala skirt
M6964 tee
M6886 dress
Burda 6/2018 tee (to be reviewed)
 
And then life got the better of me...Positive thoughts appreciated!
 
How I spent the 27th...

I'm fairly certain I had on my I <3 Bacon shorts or S8424 leggings :)
 
May 28-30:
S8424 leggings
M6519 top (to be reviewed) and B5760 skirt
NL6107 top (to be reviewed)
 
The most productive crafting I've done in the past week:


I use a lot of Trader Joes spices and these glass jars have come in handy in many ways.
I make my own seasoning blends and these are the 4 I use most often so I got the bright idea to use my Cricut to label them.
 
(I am an affiliate and purchases made through the links/banners on my page will result in a small commission for me)

I'll keep an eye out for any questions but probably won't be responding to comments, as always, they are appreciated.
 


Sunday, May 27, 2018

A Gift, a Fail + Randomness...

First up, my mom's late Mother's Day gift. I had some stuff happen that made me have to put it on the back burner but I was able to mail it the following weekend. She really liked it and I'm glad I chose this as I wanted one for myself :) 

V9305 was a little less interesting on the cover photo but the line drawings were nice enough to draw me in! And after Ann sewed her versions, I was sold

My mom loves the color brown in all shades and I decided this would be a great pattern to pair with Fabric Mart's designer linen (nayy). 

 
Ann is 5'9" and liked the length as is and it was LONG. I'm 5'5" and my mom is mayyyybe 5'2". So I knew it would need some major shortening.

I didn't want to use the l/s lines because I didn't want to chance the opening hitting too high on the body. I shortened it though the flounce by 4". If I made it for her again I'd shorten it 1" above the waist AND the 4" below.


I trued the side seam of the front and the outside curve of the flounce after folding out the excess


The neckline on this pattern is SO high. Eesh! I removed 2" on the paper pattern and ended up taking out a bunch more once it was sewn together.

My mom really hates stuff up around her neck and I didn't want to add a keyhole so she wouldn't have to fumble with buttons.



I was so glad I decided to bind the armholes instead of hemming them. It is such a nice finish.


This area came out so cleanly (ignore my extra threads)

It was a little big on her and still very long. For a long time we were the same size with similar measurements but very different composition. She also likes a loose fit (and I like close fitting clothes!) so it was pretty easy to sew for her before. She's lost weight now so I have to retake her measurements when I see her again. I can't wait to make my own!!!  Making hers allowed me to see what adjustments I need.

Fails...womp womp.

I was perusing the BMV site for missed opportunities and stumbled upon Butterick 6551. I thought it was such a cute little dress for summer and even though I had reservations about the shift on me. I'm also not a huge fan of A-line silhouettes on me but I thought mayyyyybe.

Well, it was a big ole fail.  And this is another of those times where I am over it and not looking for suggestions for this one. 

I sewed a size M with the dart lowered 1" and a 3/4" FBA. I did a full butt adjustment too (still don't have enough room). 

It looked really, really bad from the front so NO photos! LOL! The back catches up on my butt, makes me look super wide, the collar stands away from my neck. Meh.

And look how nice this hand sewing was!
AND I was channeling Carolyn and had used a piece of my Art Gallery knit for a backing for my label. Boooooo sewing fails!

Me Made May week 3!

Burda 8/2017 dress (now donated. I never liked it on me and this was just a reminder)
RTW coral sweater and Butterick 5760 TNT striped skirt
Burda 7136 chambray shirt and RTW eyelet skirt
RTW tank and Simplicity 2061 joggers (this was Sewapalooza Day!)
Burda 5/2018 top and RTW pants
Ogden Cami, RTW sweater and pants I LOVE THIS OUTFIT THE MOST!!!!!!!!!!!!! I feel like this really captures my style...or at least the style I aim for :)
Vogue 1522 top and RTW pants

Lastly, I tried my hand at dyeing for the first time! Woohoo!!!! I am thinking of dyeing this version of Simplicity 8014 dress. I made it over 2 years ago, it fits beautifully, but I don't love the fabric and have actually never worn it.


Well me being me, I went crazy and ordered a bunch of stuff for dyeing. I ordered this Dylon tropical green fabric and decided my "classic white shirt" would become a fun green shirt!

I don't wear this shirt very often. And I thought maybe I just don't like shirts much...but I think it's the *classic* part of it that isn't my fave/doesn't fit in with my style. I'm going to plan to make a new white shirt that's a little more casual. Just a little. But it didn't seem right for this top to just sit in my closet when it's a pretty nice garment!

I followed the directions and you're supposed to stir for 15 minutes. OMG THAT IS A LONG TIME!! I liked the color but then told myself I have to remember that there's excess dye and it's wet. So I left it in almost as long as suggested. It's a bit deeper than what I wanted. I should have used half to two-thirds of the dye. But I do like it! 

I followed it up with some RIT Dye Fixative then washed and dried it. It did shrink *a little* so I'll bear that in mind for any possible future projects. It was easy but it was boring because I don't have a lot of patience LOL! Next time maybe I'll bring the iPad to the kitchen and sit on a stool at the sink because whew. I was #sooverit


I must have had a chunk of undissolved dye. Drats. It's on the front but kind of off to the side. You can see the princes seam right there to the left.

I'm not sure if that dress will fit in my kitchen sink easily. I'll have to consider my options...but I do think I'll try the blue dye on the dress. Fingers crossed. Otherwise I'll have to make a new one because that dress is so cute on me!

What's up next? I have no clue. I cleaned up my fabric stash and got rid of A LOT of fabric. Two bins were "other stuff"; fleece and flannels and kid prints that I swore I'd use for gifts. I got rid of almost all of my scraps; I only kept what would fit in a 12x12 IKEA cube. And I purged some other stuff.

I'm torn between the M7745 dress (I am not with hemming and gathering all that ruffle but I want the ruffle! Why couldn't it be a 'shaped' ruffle? Why just gathered rectangles!!? Ughhhhh :)  and starting the Burda trench. Decisions, decisions :)

Monday, May 21, 2018

Weekend Sewapalooza!

This post is huge. Sorry not sorry! :-p
  
Because life, I finally had a chance to exhale this past Monday and decided that I would spend Friday night and all. day. Saturday sewing. I knew I'd have to come back to reality on Sunday :) but Friday after work through early Sunday morning would be mine.

First, a pic! Then, lots of words about my process, then reviews.



WORDS

I made 5.5 things. Because people ask (all the time! LOL!), I will talk about the sew-a-palooza process :-p

1) Just me being...Me
You all know I sew fast. There's no special sauce; it just...is. I am a Project Runway fan. (I'm sure I've told this story before!) Kini Zamora was on season 13 of PR. It aired in 2014 and I'd been sewing about a year and a half. If you watched, you know that Kini would turn out his garments and be sitting back, chilling, while the rest of the designers were working. Kini sewed FAST. Now, whether or not you liked his aesthetic, you'd have to acknowledge that he did NOT sew 'throw away' designs. He sewed fast, with detail and tailoring and fit and no one knew how he did it. I started calling Kini my brother from another mother...and I stopped questioning my ability to sew fast. And stopped feeling weird over the constant comments that I must not sleep. I totally do. 8-10 hours every night. Because I am a giant toddler in so many ways! AND I don't even sew "constantly"! More on that later.

1a) By the time I start cutting something out, I have the entire construction process mapped out mentally. I know what I'm going to do, in the order I'm going to do it, and I try to be as efficient as possible. I see a lot of commentary about "rushing" whenever someone mentions fast sewing. I don't rush...I just do pretty much everything, in a direct manner. I'm not a 'faffer'...with anything.

2) Plan
This was a planned binge-sewing event. Two or three times a year (we have 2.5 seasons soooo), I make a big list of garments that I want. I do not sew exclusively from that list, nor do I necessarily finish the list...but it guides my sewing to a degree. I'd mentioned needing more summer tops, tees/knits in particular. I have a lot(!!!) of blue and black & white print tops and dresses. That's okay...those are my favorite...but I felt like I didn't have enough SUMMER! work wear and decided to focus on those things.

2a) A good plan
Knowing what my focus was for the weekend, I chose to
1) only make patterns I'd sewn before. They didn't need to be "quick to sew" patterns...but I didn't want to bother with cutting pattern tissue, fitting, etc. I wanted to sew. By using patterns I'd sewn before, I was able to get right down to business!
2) focus on knits. I needed more knit tops but also, the fabrics I wanted to sew were primarily knits. So I rolled with it!

3) Organize
I decided to start with the simplest patterns (sewn as-is). I started with the Ottobre 2/2015 tee, then the McCall's 7465 dress, then the Burda 7107 wrap top, then the McCall's 6964 tee, then the McCall's 6612 dress (not actually more difficult than anything else but I wanted to play with a sleeve idea).

3a) I am not a sewer who cares much about serger threads matching. Sometimes I do...it depends on the garment and whether there's a chance it'll be seen. Otherwise I tend to come "close". I went with gray. I used it in all 5 garments.

4) Sew!
Friday I took my daughter to the airport (she's doing study abroad in Iceland and Denmark!), came home, got all of my fabric and patterns out, washed the orange jersey and lace and started sewing around 6:30.

so much words

Saturday I woke up and got started right away, a little before 7. The Ottobre tee and McCall's dress needed binding and hemming which, my machines are a bit loud (Brother serger and coverstitch) so I tend to wait until at least 9 a.m. to use them. My sewing room is in a bedroom now and the teenaged people are in the basement. I decided to work on the Burda wrap top during the 'quiet hours'.

Once, I was chatting with Carolyn and somehow mentioned that I don't sew continuously. I get restless...so I take frequent breaks. I sewed from around 7-9, stopped to eat and watch one of my DVRd shows that I'd missed during the week. I sewed from around 10-noon, then washed my hair and watched a hilariously awful Lifetime movie. At 2:30 I started again and this time I binged. I sewed until about 9:30 stopping at one point to order pizza (mmmmm!) and eat. And again to harass my son and his friends.

Sunday morning I cut out and sewed M6612. I was able to finish it last night at about 6:30. I'd taken all the other pics on a pit stop home around 2. While taking pics of the dress it was HILARIOUS seeing the sunlight in the room change as time moved. It was seriously like, different lighting 2 minutes after taking a pic.

My errands took me near the original SR Harris location so I decided why not! I found a rayon challis that I just loved. I was able to get another TNT, McCall's 6519 cut out and sewn (shoulder seams, side seams). I hope to finish it Monday or Tuesday.

EPIC sewing weekend for me! I think I'm ready to work on my Burda trench now! :)

REVIEWS

Ottobre Tee (previously reviewed here)

I realized that last time, I put the yoke in backwards! Doh! That explains why the neckline was weird! I played around with doing a gathered overlay on the yoke but the fabric was too heavy/bouncy. I finished the top and my binding was HORRID. I ended up ripping out all of the binding Friday night and cutting/sewing new bindings on Saturday. I still don't like the sleeve bindings. IF I used this pattern again, I'd just hem the sleeves.

I added some flat piping because why not!?

Size &Adjustments: 44 with slightly widened sleeve openings (cause, biceps)

Fabric: rayon jersey in an icy blue-grey from SR Harris that is heavy enough and opaque enough that it could have been a dress.

Construction: fully constructed on the serger, hemmed with the coverstitch

I like this top and will wear it. It's the perfect blue-grey, it fits fine and is a nice length. And the shoulder yoke adds a little something extra. But I probably won't use this pattern again.


McCall's 7465 (previously reviewed here)

I LOVE the pink version and wear it but it's a little clingy! I usually wear my tricot slip with it. This Art Gallery knit was purchased FOR this pattern. I bought it right after I made the pink version which was last June! Then I hurt my hand, didn't sew for forever, and then it was almost fall and a bright floral dress didn't make sense. I've been waiting for this and it did not disappoint!


 
Size & Adjustments: 14 neckline/shoulder, 16 through the rest. Based on the fit of the other one, ahem, I added 5/8" to the back skirt at the side seam. Next time I'll only add that from waist through thigh.

Fabric: Art Gallery cotton lycra knit from Fabric dot com. I'd purchased 1.5 yards, because it's like $18 and I knew I didn't need 2 yards...but then I had to hunt for a scrap to make binding from! LOL! And I couldn't make 'traditional' binding from those scraps so I cut a strip 1.25", sewed it to the neckline, trimmed/graded seams, then turned it to the inside and top stitched.

Construction: Constructed on the serger except for the elastic waist casing and neckline finishing, hemmed with the coverstitch.

I LOVE THIS DRESS. I love every single thing about it. Fabric? Love. Fit? Love. Length? Love. Every single bit of it! I think this pattern elevates to TNT, no? I may try one of the other views someday. You know my "I love this face"...you see it? Right?! :)
 
I even managed to (mostly) match the striped with my miniscule amount of fabric!
 

Burda 7107 (previously reviewed here)

I wear that green top all.the.time. All the time. I love it so much. I will definitely end up with a black version at some point.


Size & Adjustments: 42 with 1" bicep adjustment and sleeves shortened based on fabric constraints. Side seams sewn at 1/4", waist seam sewn at 1/2"

Fabric: Oatmeal colored rayon jersey from Fashion Fabrics Club.

Construction: Primarily constructed on the sewing machine. Only the side seams and sleeves were done on the serger. I left the center back seam unserged since the fabric is slightly sheer. The ties were partially hemmed on the machine, the rest (bottom all the way around) on the coverstitch.

Swoon. I love this one just as much as the green one! I see myself wearing this a ton. And I love the fabric color and it feels great on...but tissue knits are of the devil. They are right there with stretch cotton poplin and solid rayon challis. EVIL!

Exhibit A of "clearly I am feeling myself in this top"!

McCall's 6964 (previously sewn in 2015 and reviewed on the old blog)

I talked about wanting a couple 'fancy' tees here. And when I found that orange lace at The Sewing Lounge, I could not wait for this to happen!!


 Size & Adjustments: 14 neckline, 16 for the rest. 1" Full bicep adjustment.

Fabric: Wool jersey from Fabric Mart, lace from The Sewing Lounge in St. Paul.

Construction: I tried on one of my other versions of this and decided where the front lace 'yoke' should be. I marked it on the pattern and cut out full fronts and backs and partial yokes (extending about 1" below the line I wanted). I attached the lace to the right side with a zig-zag and then cut away the main fabric. I used my duckbill Ginghers (best purchase ever!) to trim the lace. The binding was also done by machine.

If you mind your markings...

...and sew slowly, things should work out!!

(my neckline looked better (here) before I chose to coverstitch it...but it kept wanting to flip up!)

I think I was most excited about this tee. Maybe more than the Art Gallery print dress. I know that orange (and coral! and yellow!) really, really work for my skin tone so I could not wait. I love it, I adore it, it's awesome, none of that seems to actually sum it up! Perfect wardrobe addition.


 
I was watching Girlfriends while taking pics and that is a real, geniuine laugh there! LOL

McCall's 6612 (previously sewn here)

I really like both prior versions and wanted a new dress, in a print, for summer. Now, I know this print doesn't read "summer" as it's a little dark...but I thought the colors were nice and different from other things in my wardrobe currently. I saw this dress online and decided to copy the open sleeves with ties at end. SUMMER! LOL!

I realize now that the sleeves really work here because they're loose and blousy
and the bodice is loose and blousy.
 
No, I did not purposely match the darker 'stripes' on body/sleeves.
It's pretty close though. WIN!


Size & Adjustments: 14 neck/shoulders, 16 bust/waist, 18 hip. Lengthened 2",  1" bicep adjustment, sleeves shortened to 3/4 length and slit with tie closure.

I traced a new sleeve, slit it down the center, slightly curved it through the middle of the sleeve, and added back the seam allowance. I sewed the first 6" of the sleeve and hemmed it the rest of the way. I cut 3" strips of fabric so the bands and ties finished at about 1 1/4".

Fabric: Fabric Mart precut. I'd passed on this one before; I didn't like the striping/chevron much until I saw a dress made from it on Pattern Review. The next time precuts went on sale, I bought it!

Construction: Back neckline is hemmed and shoulder seam sewn on the sewing machine. Side seams and sleeve side seam serged. Slit and tie bands constructed on sewing machine. Sleeve serged to dress...hemmed on the coverstitch.

I was very torn when I had the body constructed. I was going to leave it sleeveless. But then decided it would be limited by the print. I would likely on pair it with black or denim toppers. I pinned the sleeve in place and liked it on the dress form so I decided to move forward. When I first finished it I was torn again! I toyed around with lots of other options for the sleeve (adding another tie just above the elbow, closing it up more, closing it all the way but just leave the tie at the end).

In an effort to ensure it wasn't gaping open (too snug), I actually made the sleeve too big. So it's a bit too loose at the cuff to close the rest of the sleeve (I pinned it and it would look odd) and there was NO WAY I was going to undo all the stitching from adding the lower band/tie to take in the sleeve seam. I do not dislike it! I'm just not sure it works as well as I hoped it would.

I've decided I have to wear it to really assess how I feel about the sleeve.



You're STILL here?! Either you love sewing talk as much as I do or you're just a gluton for punishment! :-p

Now of course, I've sewn these summer things and we're supposed to have rain and cloudy weather this whole week! Good grief!

Until later...