Tuesday, August 21, 2018

Twice as nice: Burda 7/2018 #119

When I made S8601, I really liked the view with tie sleeves but liked the tie front more and thought the two together might be overkill. But I made that in a stretch cotton poplin, which is my nemesis. IDK why that fabric exists! :-p I got rid of it. Loved the top, despised the fabric. I'd planned on making the tie sleeved version and mused about making it in a jersey. And then this Burda was released! Huzzah!

If you have the magazines and haven't yet taken the plunge, I always recommend looking at the 'sewing lesson' patterns and sewing that if it's to your liking. This pattern is featured in the July issue. Benefits are that the pattern pieces are MUCH easier to trace because they're solid, overlayed on the spaghetti lines and the instructions are more comprehensive and include pictures. It's a pretty simple pattern to make though!

I went with my normal Burda sizing and cut a hybrid 40/42. On the first (blue) version, I did a little cheater FBA directly on the fabric.

Add to ss and a small amount at cf

I forgot on the grey version and my CF rides up just a little bit. I also think it is more noticeable because this rayon/poly fabric has far less drape than the blue rayon jersey. Also per usual with me and straight-sized Burda, I added no hem allowance to the top (I did add it to the sleeves). Someone on PR commented that the top was "really short" and at ~5'1", they had to add nearly 3". Weird.

I closed up the armhole slit quite a bit. I happened to have the back piece out and lowered it 3"...then matched up the front (they won't be the same because the back sleeve is longer!) and marked the new spot on the front sleeve. Finally, I never use the pattern's neck binding as I find they are often (not always but often) too long. I measured the neckline opening and cut my binding at 80% of that. The ties are finished with facings and otherwise, it's fairly straightforward to sew!

I just love it!!! After I finished the top from 8/2018 (which also has a 2nd version! LOL!), I immediately cut out the grey one.

I added lingerie straps 
(thanks IG sewing friend! LOL!!! I called them bra strap holder thing-a-ma-bobs!)

Sleeve tie facings

And because I'm silly....
I call this 'contemplation of the dead petunia'

and 'I can't help but be nosy'

and 'Yasssssss, girl!'

Both fabric cuts are from the stash, prior purchases from Fabric Mart. The skirt is M6654 and my jeans are from LOFT.

I really needed sleeved tops in solid colors and sleeveless tops in prints. I found a beautiful chartreuse silk (weave unknown) at SR Harris in the $6 bin but didn't look at the roll. It was actually $10 and not $6...but I'd had them cut 3.5 yards based on the $6 price tag! I decided to leave it. Now I'm thinking I really should have just had them cut back to the 2 yards I NEEDED for my top -- the extra 1.5 was because it was BEAUTIFUL and really popped against my skin and would have made a lovely shell or something down the line. I may go back and get it. Blergh!

Next up is V1323 in a lovely print rayon pebble challis.

My Birkin Flares and M7547 are stalled because I always manage to start sewing pants mid-cycle and I bloat like crazy (hello fibroids and ovarian cysts!) and so I'll get back to those next week! :-p

My fall plans have been completely revamped because I saw ONE. THING. that took me in a whole different direction...isn't that how it goes?!

Until later!

Saturday, August 18, 2018

On The Run II: McCall's 7728 and Simplicity 8466

Epic post of epic-ness...

Let's start by saying I will never NOT attempt to see JAY-Z or Beyonce when they tour the midwest. Beyonce is an amazing performer and I will continue to see her any time I can! But at heart, I am a rap head. And am about 72% there for JAY and the other 28% for Bey :-p I have loved rap music for as long as I can remember!

In 1988, shortly after turning 9(!) I would sneak and listen to NWA's Straight Outta Compton. Like, boombox literally on '1'. (I still listen to Straight Outta Compton!) The first album I ever purchased was later that summer, MC Lyte's Lyte as a Rock. IDK why my parents let me buy that one...maybe because she was a woman they thought it was 'safer' rap??  hahaha!  At any rate, I'm 30 years in and about 95% of the time, you can catch me listen to rap over anything else. My dad just asked the other day what kind of music I usually listen to...and said, "do you still listen to rap like that?" YES! :-p

And JAY-Z. Ahhhhh. We're going to pretend like the Kingdom Come album doesn't exist but aside from that...just greatness. Rap greatness. So OTR and OTR II is like, ooh some Beyonce magic! But I'm really there for Jay. Shhhhh. Don't tell the Bey-hive!

I knew I was going to sew something for the concert because OF COURSE I am! I initially bought M7728 with the intent of using the bodice and adding a simple gathered skirt--just a cute summer dress. Then I started thinking about a top + pants which led to this top + skirt combo which first, was going to be a frankenpatterned dress. WHEW.

M7258 bodice with S8466 skirt

I really liked this Mimi G pattern when it was released. There was a similar Burda that I've debated buying for a long time...slightly different but overall feel is similar.  And, once I muslined the bodice, I REALLY loved it and decided it would be a top. It looked super cute with high-waist jeans and a casual (tercel twill) jacket. I couldn't find my high-waist jeans OR strapless bra (either in the hamper or the laundry! LOL!) so you will have to bear with bra-straps and navel sightings. You'll survive...maybe!

Muslin 1:
Cut size 16 with no adjustments. Decide I need an FBA, more waist room, armhole tuck.

Muslin 2:
I have no pictures because it was SAD. I did a 3/4" FBA and it came out HUMONGOUS.

I went back, undid all of the changes except the 3/8" armhole tuck (I'm moving my zipper back and forth between these muslins and it's so irritating!), and put the first muslin back on.

Lightbulb. I do need more waist room, but the bodice is standing away because it's too big. I took a pretty big tuck out of the front neckline; 1/2" on each side. YES! This makes so much sense. I cut a straight 16. My correct pattern size is 14 with FBA and sometimes I'll grade from 14 to 16. IDK why I didn't cut a 14!

Went back and straightened out the side seam (I'm not that curvy through the waist), adding 1/2" to the the side seam at the waist- LOVE!

My zipper is 9" and I debated lengthening the top or adding a band to get the rest of the length needed. I decided to split it and added 1" to the length and finished it with a 1" band. The top was then way too long. It looked odd. So I decided to try my hand again at shortening the metal zipper. I've tried a whole bunch of times and have just never had the strength.

I Googled a bit and someone suggested using jewelry snips (idk what they're actually called). This worked EFFORTLESSLY!!! So I don't have to worry about shortening them anymore - YAY!

The top is fully lined with Bemberg (it feels good but I'm not as crazy about this stuff as others seem to be - it's a beast to cut and sew) and I made self-straps instead of using trim (trim, seriously?) I wanted them to finish at 3/8" wide and cut them at 1 3/8", sewn with 1/4" seam allowance. Turning these almost took me out. The Ankara is so 'sticky' and I almost gave up. My bodkin was no help and I had to turn to the bobby pin method - it worked though!

This was taken immediately after washing. 
I under stitched the bemberg but it wanted to roll back out around the cups anyway! It was fine once I pressed it again. 

brastraps! avert your gaze!!

You know the rumor that Apple screws with your phone as it gets older/new models are released?? 
My phone is just haywire so often. I swear I was clicking to take side/back photos and THREE different times I went aside and there were NO photos of the back/side! I gave up...I just wanted to show how low the back sits on M7728...but it still provides bra band coverage.

For the skirt, I swear I looked at the finished measurements AND measured the waistband pieces. And cut a 16. I thought I was going to need to insert gussets for a second there. I did have to recut my back waistband and facings. The upper part of the yoke is supposed to be slightly gathered. I had NO EXTRA ROOM for this gathering! I added about 1" to the back waistband since I eliminated the gathers.
it still works!

so sunny!!

I tried *a little* on matching everything. This was a double border print and I cut the skirt panels on the crossgrain, completely eating up that 6 yard cut of fabric. You can see that while the front doesn't match perfectly across, the motifs are at least lined up horizontally.

No attempt to match the upper but on the lower skirt, 
I wanted to ensure the border started at the same place.

The pockets are unnecessary fiddly IMO. Maybe in a solid they'd pop? But pleat and sew a dart in the lower corner and then pleat the upper corners when you attach them...and bleh. I removed all the extra and just did a pleated pocket. I did mess up though and matched the width to the flaps (they should be *just* slightly smaller) so I had to make it work and squeeze them in. It's fine though because of the print.

The corner where the lower gathered portion meets the front yoke/band is the only difficult part of this pattern. I marked the seam lines, reinforced, clipped and still couldn't get it nice and square. On the first side, I ripped and redid it but then I think I weakened that corner by ripping out stitches. Again, it's fine though because super busy print.

I never use pattern pieces for carriers. I like to cut a 1 1/4" piece, serge on end, fold in the raw edge 3/8", fold over the serged edge, and topstitch 1/8" away from each edge. I skipped the self tie because of the busy print. I figured my leather belt would look much better. I added my label and a strip from the selvage <3

Lastly, whenever I'm making buttonholes, both sides of the fabric gets interfaced. I like to make the area as stable as possible (on the pocket flaps, the uninterfaced side has a strip of fusible where the buttonhole went in). The buttons are the last of the shell buttons Carolyn sent me awhile back. And I didn't have enough so the waistband has a different button.

I'm really digging this outfit and the separate pieces!!

I think I'll be wearing this skirt A LOT! I can totally see it transitioning to fall and winter too.
I just got excited at the thought of my off-shoulder bodysuit or tissue weight turtleneck with tights and updated 'combat' boots. YAY!

Navel alert! 

I'm so nosy. I 'bout died when I saw this pic. These people were minding their own business but I am so.nosy.! LMAO!!! So I had to include it. I'm definitely going to be the neighborhood watch lady...(you know that one super nosy old lady that knows everything about everyone!)

The concert was AH-MAZING!!! And I just loved this outfit. I felt pretty regal and stand-outish :) And I was comfortable too...well until we'd reached the point where we'd been standing/walking for ~6 hours. My almost 40 year old self can't hang tie 2 a.m. anymore!

Tuesday, August 14, 2018

Multiple Muslins (WHO AM I EVEN?!)

I got home from a super-awesome weekend trip late Sunday morning. But I'm getting too old for quick turnaround road trips and spent the rest of Sunday on the couch. Monday I went into my destroyed sewing room (last minute project to take with me!) and didn't have the energy to dive into anything else on my August list. Then wait, my olive M7547 pants...I really want those...

But Big4 pants.


No doubt my biggest successes come from Burda and V9032 worked so well because of the 'butt princess seaming'. The back of those pants fit so, so well. I had many muslins with S2700 back in the day and do use that pattern still occasionally; but it's a silhouette that's a little different than what I'm currently into.

So I found the weird colored green fabric I ordered last year (it looked darker online!) and cut a muslin. They're numbered for my benefit so I remember the order...though the pics are telling.

Photo #1 is a straight out of the envelope size 18

  • too tight
  • back leg wrinkles
  • not enough length in back
  • too much length in front

I scooped the crotch curve and added inseam length. But they're still too tight and have no additional back length in the rise

Then I ripped open the back to let it separate (you don't want to see that) and added a 1" and 3/4" wedge (I normally add 1" to 1 1/4") and I lengthened the crotch point 

(spoiler alert: too much of an adjustment). 

I also lengthened the darts 1/2". Also the wrong move. If anything they should be about 1/2" shorter than the pattern. I don't know what made me decide to lengthen them...I sometimes shorten Burda darts...Because lengthening bak rise and shortening front rise are normal adjustments for me, I did those on the paper. I redrew the back curve and added to the crotch point directly on the fabric.

I actually went just a tad lower as I neared the crotch point when cutting out this chunk.

They LOOK okay. But as soon as I moved there was weird fabric everywhere. This is when I realized there was too much added to the back.

Suddenly my side seam isn't straight...and I meant to draw balance lines this time and forgot. 

Thinking about the 3-dimensional relationship between the fabric and my body, I decided to try something else. I decided the back was far too angled (scroll back up to the pic of the flat back!) and that I'd added too much. I took a wedge out on the fabric (it's not clean but the effect is clear). I also took out the back crotch seam, inseam and side seam and staggered them with the front so that the back seam allowance was 1/4" smaller at each of these. I only did these adjustments on the left side.

Excuse the poorly lit shot but SO much better! 

The only last bit is that it looks like my inseam is pulled upward still compared to the side seam, just less severely. So maybe I need a tiny bit more added to the inner thigh adjustment (I added 1/2") BUT this could also be a grain issue. I admit I wasn't as careful with this last muslin when cutting. And I was on the phone. I think I have enough of this fabric for a full length muslin. If not full length I'll at least go beyond the knees as much as possible. 

Also, I have a flexible ruler on the way to me, arriving tomorrow. Yay! So I figure I'll have a new pair of pants by the weekend?? :) 

Why am I going through all this trouble? My olive green stretch twill is pretty much amazing. It wasn't particularly expensive ($13.99/yd) but I love everything about it and want wearable pants from this. I also have an amazing piece of black stretch twill purchased back in March for the overalls from this pattern.

MN Primaries were held today!! 

Until later!

Tuesday, August 7, 2018

Vogue 1522: More New Pants!

Casual pant 2 of 3 done!

Erica sewed this pattern as an outfit and I fell hard for the top especially. I made the top last fall and the pants were always in the back of my mind as a possibility.

I have raved about this Telio jockey Ponte before (used for NL6530) and again, I am so happy with this fabric. I've worn the skirt from this fabric countless times and the top quite a few times. I knew this fabric would work really well as pants.

(I am a Fabric.com affiliate and purchasing through my links or banners will result in a small commission for me)

I cut a size large (16/18; I am normally an 18 on bottom). I added 1" to the back rise, 1/4" to the crotch point, and did a 3/8" knock knee adjustment.  I also lowered the front rise 3/4" and used twill tape instead of self-fabric tie as drawstring.

I basted before sewing (this is a thing for me now! hahaha!) and sewed the side seams at 3/4". I feel like mine fit similarly to the modeled photo and the lushness of the fabric makes them a bit more drapey.

The porkchop pockets are affected by my lowering of the front rise. They puff out just a bit right where the pattern was adjusted.

 Not much else to see on these as far as details!

One thing I did not like and could have easily adjusted if I'd read the directions beforehand(!) :) The waistband finishes at 2" and it calls for 1.5" elastic and topstitching along the upper part at 1/4". 

I could have easily made the waistband just a bit smaller. I don't want to topstitch an elastic waistband. Blergh.

And so cool!

(My posture is so bad. sheesh!)

I think they fit close enough that they can be worn for nighttime/slightly dressed up.

I just want to wear them all the time!

I think I'm all caught up with finished projects - whew! Wait. No. I have my black B6330 to show and have finished item 1 of 2 for my concert outfit. 

More later!

Friday, August 3, 2018

Grainline Felix

Back in 2014, when I participated in the Fabric Mart Fabricista challenge, we were given the Grainline Scout tee to 'make our own'. I muslined because I knew there was no way I was going to sew this as is.

I finished the challenge and wore the top for a bit...but I tossed the pattern immediately. I've not really considered any Grainline patterns since then (I've owned the Lakeside pjs since they were first released). Mainly, her patterns just don't match my aesthetic; too boxy, too shapeless. very casual in a way that I don't normally dress.

So while I liked the Felix immediately, my hesitation with Indies in general and this company specifically, made me pass. Then I saw the photo of the dress made up in the blue fabric! I decided to gamble because it looked amazing!! I bought a PDF version of the pattern on Pattern Review.

I saw a response from Jen to someone about the bodice finish basically "needing" the lining. You don't NEED the lining. It will produce a beautiful finish but it is not necessary because the bodice is finished with a facing. 

The PDF went together fine and everything matched up as it was supposed to (notches, etc). I am almost always annoyed by Indie patterns' gazillion pages of instructions. I'm not sure why 29 pages is necessary...e.g., 3 steps and a full page on understitching the facing. Gah. But the instructions were fine and they were mostly clear. I even read through the lining steps.

The left neckband is wonky on me. 
I tried fixing it after it was assembled so now my right band is a little sloppy. boooo!

I knew beforehand that I would be eliminating the horizontal seam in back, leaving it unlined and leaving out the pockets. You CAN have the pockets without lining but it requires more work than I think is worth it. If you wanted it unlined but with pockets, then I'd say go for inseam.

I do not like that horizontal back seam. At all. Again, there is a very specific body type that can take a seam going across their backside with fabric eased in...I ain't got it!

I sewed a size 12 based on the measurement chart and finished bust measurement. I decided to do a 3/4" FBA and eliminated the dart that was created. I could have used a *little* more room!  

Because the back skirt of the lining had no additional ease, I used that piece for my skirt. I attached them, overlapping the seam allowance, and did a 1/2" swayback adjustment. I added the seam allowance to CB directly on the fabric. I did NOT consider the fact that the lining piece is shorter, and had to shorten my front pattern piece after the fact. Doh! But it works! I like this length a lot.

the pattern instructs turning up 1/4" then 3/4". 
I did a narrow hem.

I kept the additional waist room from my FBA and based on that additional space, I added 1" on the fold for the front skirt. I then chose a spot (kind of randomly, honestly) and marked it both sides of center. I did a very light gathering between the two marks. I did not like the idea of just easing the skirt in.  

Once the front skirt was attached I basted the side seams. I am pretty straight from the front and needed a little waist definition. I took it in about 3/4" on each side starting from about 2" below the armhole to the front horizontal seam.

On my muslin, I noticed the back neckband was really, really round. It was tough to sew. I will have to wear it a couple times likely to really get what's wrong with it. I'm thinking the neck/shoulder fit on Grainline just doesn't work for me. I believe it's meant for a more erect back; the shoulder seam is WAY back on me and I do not have forward shoulders. I also want to pull it away from my neck repeatedly. Eh. I am not sure I'll be using the pattern again. 

But I do like THIS dress! 

The fabric is (an expensive!) tencel chambray from Treadle Yard Goods in St. Paul. Lastly, maybe it's evident in the pics how low the armholes are? It's always an issue when a pattern has a sleeved and sleeveless option with the same bodice. The armholes need to be raised for sleeves so getting out of the dress is a challenge! I noted this on IG when I muslined it...but then I didn't think I had enough of this fabric to cut sleeves so I didn't adjust the armhole. Sigh.

just barely made it!

Part of this frustration, admittedly, is due to pulling out the True Bias Lander pants, looking at this front crotch curve and NOPE'ing the whole idea. True Bias Ogden - fantastic pattern. I hate I waited so long to try it. These pants? n.o.p.e. 

Someone's crotch is shaped like this...but mine isn't.

So I've given up on the Landers and am sewing another pair of Birkin Flares with some tweaks (including a button fly!). 

I think my overall feelings on the Felix are neutral. You all know I'm a Big4 / Burda fangirl. I know there are good Indies; I don't dispute that. I think that so many of them are based on the owner's body type and it doesn't translate well to creating sewing patterns for the masses. No pattern will fit all of the bodies; I TOTALLY get that -- But so many of these companies are just too specific in the body type they draft for. And I just don't have the patience (or budget!) to gamble repeatedly.  

I'm not confident I'll use my awesome paisley fabric on the Felix this fall. But I will wear this Felix dress because I think it's pretty darned cute on me.