Wednesday, January 15, 2020

...More 2020 plans

I've made some great progress on my revised fall plan:

  • Burda 6990 is done (to be reviewed)
  • S8948 is partially cut but I need an appropriate interfacing
  • NL6644 top is done and reviewed
  • B5526 was swapped for Burda 4/2010 and is done and reviewed
  • skipping ahead...
  • NL6418 is a wadder. I cut the 4 panels, sewed them, topstitched them, basted the sides and when I took it off, wadded up the remainder of the faux leather and put it in the trash. It was NOT good. I will review it as an add on to another post as I've made this pattern before.
  • M7982 was muslined and I'm looking forward to sewing them!
  • V9210 ponte leggings are done (to be reviewed)
  • Burda 2/2017 and S2700 are both done. But I did the thing that I do so, so often. I sewed them while I was bloated and now they are SUPER loose. I have to undo some stitching and take them in. Hmmph!!!!!! 
I'll be making a new "remainder of winter" plan because, Oooh SHINY! And, the February Burda mag is giving me LIFE! 

This dress is 100% being sewn in February!!!!!!

I like this top but it has shoulder ruching and side ruching and the tie belt and the sleeve ruffles. Those are all a bit much at once...but the other view is just the top. So I'll probably do something in between. e.g., No ruffles but with the belt

I've never been tempted by a Make Nine but when I saw @learningsewmuch's IG post with broader plans, and I was totally down for that!

Bodice Sloper
It is time for me to create a bodice sloper. It'll make my sewing life so much easier. I plan to use the bodice sloper class from In-House Patterns. 

After attending Sew Camp in 2018, I decided that each year I'd treat myself to a sewing class or "retreat" type activity. Now, Sew Camp is an amazing time!! The accommodations are outstanding (and the food!!) and it really is very reasonably priced. But, I need to watch my spending and just can't swing it with airfare + the camp + remaining expenses. So this class will be my 2020 treat. 

I've made jumpsuits before, of course! I realized I really like them! LOL! I want to make a dressier one for outings, a more casual/weekend wear one and a knit jumpsuit. I do have some patterns in mind: V1645 dressy and B6330 for the knit...but we'll see!

Sew Silk!
I have a small collection of silk cuts now and I just keep looking at them! And I don't know why exactly. It's not like I haven't sewn silky/shifty fabrics. I've made a silk top before (pattern/fit issues but sewing the fabric was fine). I don't know why I'm hoarding them so I plan to sew at least 3 cuts of silk this year.

'Nuff said! I don't have one and need one.

I mentioned this as a goal in my 2020 planning post. I for sure need a dress coat, a more casual coat/jacket, and a trench. 

About 2 years ago I cleared out a lot of ratty loungewear. I then sewed a hoodie, 3 tops, 2 leggings and 2 joggers. I've worn out one pair of bottoms and a top and my mom snagged another top. I don't plan to add a ton and right now, am thinking I want to make the M7061 top and pants and another hoodie (which was on my fall plan). 

Summer Capsule
I mentioned in my 2020 planning post that I've struggled for awhile with my summer wardrobe. I will plan to do this as a SWAP/Capsule when the time comes.

Slip Dress
I can't let it go! I want it!! :) And, this could easily fulfill a slot in my sew silk plan too!

Blazer for him
I have the pattern, fabric, lining, I have his measurements, muslin...I just have to do a bit of research on sewing corduroy and plan to sew this next month. Or at least start it.

Lastly, related to making, I want to knit a sweater! Back in 2014 when I worked on a test knit on a sweater, my hands went kaput. Then I fractured my right hand in 2017. Then I had surgery early 2018. WHEW! I just attempted to start knitting again late last year. I'm not sure when I'll start it but it won't be a goal for the current winter weather :)

Look at all those random holes! LOL!!!!! 
I am impressed with my attempts to do cabling so soon after learning to knit!

For now, I'm considering the Humulus (ravelry link)

or this other top-down, circular yoke pattern from Purl Soho (ravelry link)

Personal 2020 goals and plans?

A new job. I've been with my current org for almost 5 years but it is most certainly time for me to start searching for a new opportunity.

And, I want need to relocate. 2020 is not the year that that will happen; we just have far too much in the air right now, but I need to start researching housing markets and job markets for both of us and plan my escape from here!

I have made vague goals for forever on eating better but I am having a host of issues that I think are predominantly hormonal. I've got new meds for my migraines and supplement suggestions, but I am hoping to also get my diet in line and improve my stress management.

Continue to read more! For 2019, I set a goal to read 12 books and read 16. For 2020 I'm going to set a goal of 20 books.

My daughter got married last year and graduates college this spring. She has also settled on some ghastly number of children they want to have. I jest. Barely. I think she said 6 or 8. IDK, I stopped listening! I know she is super keen on becoming a mom and I've already started saving cozy knit and cotton remnants because, I'LL HAVE TO MAKE BABY CLOTHES!!! My husband side-eyes me. So maybe I don't become a gramma in 2020, but maybe I DO! :-p

Saturday, January 11, 2020

Burda 04/2010 #114

I went down to the basement to look for a pattern and it wasn't there. Well, there were *several* piles of patterns and magazines in various places. A lot of them were recent additions that just hadn't made it into the pattern cabinets. Among them was 3 old Burda mags that I recently acquired. I thumbed through and fell so hard for the April 2010 issue!!

From the SMF blog.
I LOVE so many of the tops and a couple jackets and dresses and - win! I had been waffling on using one of my TNTs: B5678 or Burda 7136 or a different pattern for my striped shirt. I contemplated B5526 because I wanted something casual (e.g. B5678 was out, it's an awesome pattern but very fitted). This pattern checked the boxes! A semi-fitted style with a yoke, stand collar, cuffs, all that.

I have to take the lighting I can get. It is just too dark and cold lately :/
I settled on this striped fabric for my shirt long before I decided on the pattern. Last year after my Fabric Mart visit, I bought a bunch of shirting and I've been thinking about *this* shirt for a long time. 

I cut the pockets, cuffs and collar stand on the cross grain....and these buttons! Eek! The last JA sale on buttons was buy 3, get 3 and I just grabbed these because they were cool.

love this  image of the collar stand! :)

I'd posted a poll on Instagram about using the pattern piece included for the pocket and an oversized rectangular pocket. It was overwhelmingly in favor of the pattern pocket but I just really liked the pop of the oversized pocket!

I traced a size 40 at the neck and shoulder and graded to a 42 through the armhole and body. I added a bit over an inch at the hip (which wasn't enough and I sewed a 3/8" seam allowance through that area. 

I added 1" to the bicep and made no other adjustments.

I set the first sleeve and holy buckets! There was SO MUCH EASE in that cap. The pattern does NOT show a puff or gathered sleeve. But the sleeve was like 4" bigger than the armhole! I ended up removing some of the height off the cap but think I overdid it. I will be sure to adjust the sleeve pattern.  

The other issue was that they gave measurements to "draft" the continuous lap and THAT included seam allowance. The measurements they gave to "draft" the cuff did NOT include seam allowances. WHAT THE HECK BURDA!?!?! 

I took a slightly deeper pleat on the sleeve and sewed the cuff side seams at ~3/8". I attached them to the sleeve with a 3/8" seam allowance and thankfully, Burda drafts a pretty long sleeve. But then, with reducing the sleeve cap a bit too much, they are *just* a tad bit on the short side. Whew. 

I foresee lots and lots of wear with this one! I really like it and I think it'll be super versatile for me.

Wednesday, January 1, 2020

Welcome 2020!

Let me start quickly with my December wrap-up. I ended up getting one more garment in after posting my 2019 wrap up.

This month, I sewed 13 3/8 yards. I found my mojo a bit lacking during my vacation but still managed to sew 6 of the items in my "Sewcation" post!
  • New Look 6644 pants - 2.5 yds
    • pink cotton sateen, buttons, elastic
  • New Look 6644 top - 1 3/8 yds
    • grey rayon jersey
  • Burda 6990 top - 1.75 yds
    • light blue jersey
  • Burda 2/2017 skirt - 1 yd
    • painted cotton dobby, zipper
  • Vogue 9210 - 1.25 yds
    • black shimmer ponte
  • New Look 6418 skirt - 1.5 yd (possible wadder; I'm not sure about this faux leather)
    • black faux leather, zipper
  • Simplicity 2700 pants - 2.5 yds
    • herringbone cotton/linen suiting, zipper, hook & eyes
  • Burda 4/2010 shirt - 1.5 yds
    • striped cotton shirting, buttons
Sewcation results, L to R:
Finished bias binding the armholes of Burda 9/2018 dress
Finished bar tacks on Style Arc Sandra jeans
Sewed Burda 4/2010 shirt
Sewed Burda 2/2017 skirt
Sewed Burda 6990 top
Sewed Vogue 9210 leggings
Sewed Simplicity 2700 pants (not shown because they refuse to dry?!!)
Sewed a muslin for McCall's 7982 (not shown)

Welcome 2020!!

I cannot believe this year has gone by so fast, not to mention this decade! Decennial is such a weird word :)

Life is getting more and more expensive and I need to reassess *everything*. I need to spend much less the next year than I usually do including on sewing expenses. That means patterns, fabrics, notions, all that. And it should be doable because goodness knows I have the stash for it!!

Back in August, Vogue released their fall patterns and I bought like 10. I have yet to sew any of them. Now, that's fine, I don't feel like I must sew every pattern I own. But I do feel like I don't need to rush out and add to the collection. There are at least a couple of these that I'm rethinking after seeing versions made up (like Vogue 1643). 

I purchased A LOT of patterns this year. I. Have. Sewn. 7. SEVEN! (This has been updated. I went purely off of dates in my PR pattern stash but after organizing my patterns and auditing them, there were a bunch that hadn't been entered. My tracking spreadsheet shows 89 but PR shows 125. Let's assume I purchased somewhere around 100!) :)

So I will be watching my pattern buying. I don't feel the need to put a limit on the number of patterns, but I am budgeting $50 for the year on patterns. Since I primarily buy Big4, this shouldn't be as difficult.

I'm going to keep my Burda sub (just renewed for all of 2020) and cancel Ottobre, Threads and SEWN. 

Oy. I have a stash. I don't mind having a stash. I rather enjoy having a stash. I'll never become a per-project-basis type sewer. 

But I have a lot of fabric and it currently feels overwhelming. I don't like to feel overwhelmed. When I finally organized this year (after last summer's move), I got rid of some stuff then but need to cull the stash again and remove things that don't feel like "me". There are pieces that I routinely pick over and so they need to go. 

I am setting a low fabric budget for 2020 of $250. I will only be buying fabric if "needed" for a project. Because, while I have quite a bit that makes me feel like it doesn't belong, there's a ton that I love and want to see made up. So I'll be stash-diving in 2020!

I never include lining and interfacing in "fasting". I will include lining this year as I bought a TON during an awesome FM sale. I will not include interfacing because you need the right stuff for the job. 

I have so much stuff. So many buttons and snaps and hook & eyes and thread and, and, and. I'm going to designate this as an "as needed" category. I will shop the stash first and try to make existing stuff work.

  • I really want to sew some stuff for my husband. I just took his full measurements and plan to sew his corduroy blazer early in the year and hopefully a pair of jeans at some point. 
  • I need more outerwear! I have 4 coat patterns I really want to sew!  The 3 below plus a trench coat. I think I can commit to 1 outerwear piece per quarter with my output. 
center pattern is V1479
  • I need more cold-weather loungewear and want to sew at least 2 long sleeved sweatshirts/tops.
M7061 has been on the radar for forever. I have really cute fabric for it too. 
  • I am still floundering during summers and not feeling put together most days. I am really going to try to assess my style needs during the warm months.
  • Pick up the Burda challenge again. I was going through my binder and reflecting on all the stuff I made. I really loved quite a few things that I ended up sewing because of the challenge!!
  • I will continue blogging. I don't mind IG (though I despise the algorithm) but I just don't find it helpful for sewing as I don't want to interact so passively within the sewing community. Scroll. like. Scroll, Comment. Scroll. Scroll. Scroll. meh. I want to read about the process of sewing a garment! I don't want to have to try to remember who posted what; or have things disappear in stories that I was interested in. Blog content is "google-able". I like that. And, I am 110% an "to each their own" kinda lady but I don't understand the 'blogging is too much work' but will post a series of 8-10 pics and 4 paragraphs on an IG post. HOW is that any less work than blogging?!?! Me thinks it's preferable because it comes with the instant gratification and the instant interaction. But seriously, to each their own.  
So, I don't have a ton of goals for the new year and am hoping for a super chill, relaxed year. 

Sunday, December 29, 2019

Goodbye 2019!

Earlier this month, I visited Kokoon Fashion, a small retailer here in Minneapolis who opens up her warehouse occasionally with fabric for sale. I picked up almost 20 yards and poof goes my ratio for the year! LOL!!!! Okay, I'm still under but I was doing REALLY well! :-p

This year, I sewed 97 3/8 yards of fabric and purchased 95 yards.
I sewed 48 garments for myself (I was surprised by this low number!!) and 2 gifts.
  • I sewed 10 dresses, 7 are still in my wardrobe
    • 5 versions of B6221 (!)
    • NL6123 which was a wadder
    • Burda 04/2019
    • McCall's 7246 which was removed after the reduction
    • Burda 8/2019 which was removed due to just disliking it
    • Burda 09/2018 which was almost a wadder and still needs the armholes bound
I really love B6621! I wear them all and can see this pattern being made up again, soon :) The twist front versions are a little off now because I did do an FBA on them so the v-neck is a little droopy now. 

I was really sad about the M7246. I never got around to reviewing it, the fabric was amazing, but I know I'm not going to undo the neck band to try to make it work.

My FAVE garment from this category is my floral dress from the 4/2019 Burda mag. I love the fit, the fabric, the flounce, the length, everything!
  • I made 15 tops, 8 are still in my wardrobe.
    • Burda 12/2018 a beautiful top that just fit terribly after the reduction!
    • M7722 was a wadder
    • KS3848 was never reviewed. I really should because that pattern was wonky! But I love the tank!!
    • NL6314 in a distressed french terry (LOVE)
    • Burda 12/2009 top which I never fell for as much as I expected
    • NL6560 that I never wore and removed after the reduction
    • B6378 that I enjoyed wearing but was removed after the reduction
    • S1430 that turned out so lovely and is one of my faves
    • Kommatia tee
    • M7218 top that WAHHHH I want to love but the fabric SUCKS. It can't stay
    • V9026 wadder due to pattern+fabric mismatch :(
    • Itch to Stitch capelet that will be reviewed but won't stick around because of the fabric
    • V9111 top to be reviewed
    • NL6644 tee
    • Burda 6990 to be reviewed but I've realized I need to shorten it to make it work
I've always had an issue with the category of tops. It's always a low ratio of success. Of the 15 tops, only 8 or just over half, are staying in my wardrobe. I'm going to say the S1430 top is my favorite from this category. Of the several times I sewed the shorts, I always considered the top but never sewed it. I can definitely see using this pattern more when the weather turns.

  • I made 4 jackets/cardigans this year, 2 will remain in my wardrobe
    • B6641 which was going SO well and then, IDK what happened. It's been a UFO since January/February
    • V9190 which is a sleeper IMO! It doesn't look super interesting on the envelope but I love it
    • V9099 which is *this* close to being done. Oy! Luckily, it's a very lightweight wool and in a color that I think will work for most of the year
    • M6996 cardigan which I need to review for Minerva then I'll be gifting it to my coworker. She tried it on and loved it.
My favorite from this category is totally my blazer but man, that olive V9190 is a runner up, for sure!

  • I made 1 jumpsuit, 2 pair of shorts and 9 pair of pants. The jumpsuit, 1 pair of shorts, 5 pair of pants remain in my wardrobe
    • NL6189
    • V1411 was a wadder due to...something
    • Burda 6659 shorts for lounging
    • Deer & Doe Sirocco jumpsuit that still fits after the reduction! Yay!
    • S1430 shorts were never worn and will be removed. I know now that the crotch on those shorts don't work that well for me
    • NL6459 removed due to fabric :( The pants would grow and grow and growwww throughout the day
    • M7726 was a big 'ole ugly wadder. Ugh. I hated that pattern
    • Style Arc Sandra jeans are seriously just awaiting belt carriers. DOH!
    • Burda 9/2018 WADDER!!!!! Hated this pattern too!
    • NL6644 haven't been worn yet but I am happy with them!
    • V9210 were recently finished and I think they'll come in handy
    • S2700 is recently finished and is an old fave
With garments that were finished late in the year and haven't really been in the rotation, it can be hard to choose a favorite but the unreviewed NL6189 make me so happy when I wear them!
old pic from the summer!
  • I sewed 7 skirts, 5 for sure, and maybe 6 remain
    • V1501 in the beautiful print crepe fabric
    • Burda 6659 denim midi
    • NL6326 hot pink mock wrap
    • Burda 4/2019 in bright green twill
    • NL6418 matches the M6996 mentioned above in the Minerva fabric. I'm not 100% sure about it. Review to come
    • Burda 2/2017 in a beautiful painted tweed
    • NL6418 in faux leather that I am really uncertain about. The good thing, is even with all the work to "press" and topstitch faux leather, it's a quick project. But my pin and try-on session left me wondering if I'll actually wear it. 
The Burda skirt hasn't had a chance yet but I'm going to tie it with V1501! I adore the Vogue skirt and wear it often, but the Burda is so beautiful!!

So, that's 29/48 garments or 60%. This doesn't include the 4 garments that were removed post-reduction (which would increase my success rate to almost 69%). 

My goals for this year were:
  • Sew 18 Burda Mag patterns - Err. I sewed 9. But, I did sew less overall so I suppose. What I find more surprising, is that I only sewed from one 2019 issue this year - 2 patterns from the April mag. This doesn't bother me much, because I know how Burda patterns grow on me. 
  • Sew 4 Ottobre patterns - Errrrrr. I sewed ZERO! Eek!! I'm going to have to reconsider this subscription if patterns continue to go unused.
  • Buy fewer patterns overall - FAIL! I purchased 89 patterns this year.
  • Be more mindful with fabric purchases - I feel like I did okay with this. I had that melanoma scare early on in the year and I bought a bunch of random stuff waiting for the results but otherwise, I felt pretty good about most of my fabric purchases.
  • Sew menswear - FAIL. I did not actually do this but I AM working out a muslin for him for a blazer. I also bought the Thread Theory Fulford jeans to attempt for him.
  • Outerwear - I did not sew any outerwear pieces this year.
  • Sew a blazer - yay! Done! Well, I just have some hand sewing to do on the Vogue jacket but it got done! I took the tailoring class at Hello Stitch taught by Beth and SunnyGalStudio.
  • Sew party clothes! -  I sewed a sparkly Sirocco gold jumpsuit, the cute V9111 top and the sparkly V9210 leggings

I also ventured way into pants fitting this year and managed to sew a decent amount even with 2 surgeries. I didn't sew at all in March and April and sewed 2 garments in May. I wish I'd achieved a better ratio on fabric in/out. I wish I'd done much better on pattern acquisitions and I wish I'd done better on overall sewing spending (gahhhhh!). 

I will post my 2020 goals and plans in a separate post!

Thursday, December 26, 2019

Notes on pants fitting...

Hopefully your Christmas was great if you celebrate and if you don't, hopefully you had an awesome day off. And if you worked, hopefully it was calm and quiet :)

A commenter (Chabe!) asked on the NL6644 post if I'd post a pic of my pattern adjustments. I will say, that the addition to the back rise (usually ~1") and back crotch point (usually 3/8" to 1/2") are adjustments I make pretty much every time. Recently, I'd been reading/researching a bit more on pants fit and starting thinking about the idea of back rise vs crotch point additions.

I found a YT video -- which I don't have because I come across SO many bits of info and my brain is like a sponge so I remember the important bit but forget when/where -- where the sewer was discussing putting the fabric where you need it. Now, this is sort of a "duh" moment but I think it's easy to get mixed up on what's needed where. e.g., I spent a lot of time making swayback adjustments (which some are legitimate!) but the issue really is wider hips/large butt. So the fabric can't relax where it needs to and it looks like swayback.

Well, with the crotch fit, I've been adding additional length which yes, it's needed overall and it HAS helped. But that wedge at CB isn't where the majority of my adjustment is needed.

So with the NL6644 pants, I made my normal adjustments and it's okay. Like a lot of my pants patterns come out okay. I did add an adjustment for full front thigh.

lowered front rise, increased front thigh

raised back rise and addition to the crotch point

So, I figured next time, I'll add more for full inner thigh, right?

Then, I had a lightbulb moment. I've been down this path before, theoretically, but never followed through. After studying the pics, I copied my crotch curve and compared it to the pattern.

My front crotch curve fits really well. I did actually compare the stitch line (approximately) to the crotch curve but this is the photo I have. shrug.

And here is where things got super interesting to me...

Initially, I overlapped the front and back piece and it was just (obviously) WAY off. Like I'd have to dip several inches into the pants back. 

Then I compared my round part with the round part of the pattern and a-ha! So my butt also fits the curve of these pants but look at how far my inseam is from the crotch point of the pants!! Now, scroll up and look at my back pic. 

If you could imagine forcing that crotch point above to my center mark, it seems like that accounts for those pull lines, right?? At least that's what I think! :) See THIS post from blogger Joyful Expressions on how she added to the back based on a similar back crotch situation.

So, I have a pair of pants to muslin this week, M7982 and will apply my theory to the muslin straight away. Although, the McCall's pattern has a much longer back crotch length than the New Look does, so perhaps a smaller addition. Also, it is much more angular than round, so I will adjust accordingly. 

In the meantime, I cut out my next project, V9201 and compared my "fishbowl" to the pattern.

Caveat #1: It didn't occur til after that this pattern is also less "rounded" in back. But here you can see I added 2" to the back crotch point tapering down through the thigh.

Caveat #2: this pattern is made up in a ponte so that's going to affect fit a bit, especially from a comparison perspective to the woven NL6644.

At any rate, I basted the inseam and side back seam (there's a side panel and no side seams for the upper half of the leg) and made some tweaks after trying to read the wrinkles. So which fit do you think is "best"?
Oh yes, my fabric is sparkly! I got it on the trip to Ginny's in Rochester

A. Sewn as-is. 5/8" seam allowances, no other changes

B. The seam between the white chalk marks (looks like a smudge) was let out to 3/8".

C. The seam between the white chalk marks AND the inseam through the thigh (about 9-10") was let out to 3/8".

D. The inseam was sewn back at 5/8" and the seam between the white marks at 3/4".
I felt D was better than A, B, and C.

E. Which is taken a different day, has the seam between the white marks and the inseam sewn at 3/4" until about mid-thigh. It also has the crotch "scooped" or rather, made more rounded than angular.

The pants will be sewn up and completed with the adjustments shown on E. I think that the 2" added to the crotch point ended up adding just a bit too much to the inner thigh. I have very full inner thighs and this is also an adjustment I've made before but usually much smaller (3/8" or 1/2"). I am wondering about extending the crotch point just a touch more while also tapering the area through the thigh.

I'm excited to try out this extended crotch point on a pair of woven pants! Will plan to document that process as well.