Wednesday, February 24, 2021

Burda 1/2018 #119 in POLKA DOTS!

I made this hoodie a few years ago (here). WOW, time flies! I wear it ALL THE TIME and have intended to make a 2nd one for forever. 

I picked up this polka-dot sweatshirt fleece on my trip to Fabric Mart in 2018, so it was long overdue to be sewn up. 

I used a straight size 40, same as last time. I added 1" to the sleeve length and did a slash and spread vertically on the pocket to add an inch. Look at the difference! So much more useful now!

Everything about this pattern is just so perfect to me! I love the shoulder line, the sleeve, the binding, the curved seams, the length, the hood's just AWESOME!!

I didn't have any black bias tape and was going back and forth on adding a pop of color. Ultimately, I decided to just take advantage of the white dots. I actually used an off-white as the white seemed to be too bright. I really love the binding details included on this pattern!!

I went with a black nylon zipper, eyelets for the drawstring, some white cording, and silver cord stops. 

I am coming to like dropped shoulders now that I am less busty. The sleeves are nice and roomy. The have this large pleat at the top and the lower edge is eased into a cuff.

I wear this one all the time too and sometimes there's a little competition between which hoodie will win the day :-p 

This is what I wore to work today but I had a solid cardigan on hand that I swapped out for the 2 interviews I held! hahahaha! No one knew I was sporting leggings and sneakers. I guess there's a silver lining to be found in eternally working from home :-p

Sunday, February 21, 2021

Burda 1/2021 #120

I'm so far behind on blogging! GAH! And then on Saturday, it was really bright and I knew I should have gotten some photos taken but didn't. What happened Sunday? It snowed all day and was overcast. Grr. 

I sewed this pattern earlier this year for my daughter here. I knew that this Veronica Beard fabric that I'd been hoarding was a perfect pairing to the pattern.

Here's a VB jacket using the fabric 

And V9286

I don't remember the composition and it was on FabricMart as a boucle. The Nordstrom's site lists the jacket as a cotton blend tweed with the following composition: 64% cotton, 27% linen, 8% polyester, 1% elastane.

It was a really great fabric to work with! I may have enough left over for a skirt! We'll see!! 

I used my normal Burda sizing - a 40 neckline and bust, graded to a 42 waist and 44 hip. I ended up adding a CB seam to do a swayback adjustment (5/8") and add some shaping. 

It's a pretty straightforward sew. The darts. AH! It has bust darts and the sleeve has 7 darts (3 on each side and one at the hem). That was not fun. It was totally not fun in this striped, ravelly fabric. But I do love the finished product, so it was worth it!

I adjusted the belt width to fit the 1.25" D-ring I had on hand (I think the pattern called for 2"). But otherwise, sewn as per the pattern!

I've already worn it several times since finishing it. It's so cozy and fun to wear, and the stripe makes it fairly versatile with bottoms in my wardrobe. 

I have a host of finished things to blog, making a list here to help myself! :)
S2892 top
Burda 3/2011 dress
S9011 dress
Burda 1/2018 sweatshirt
S8529 sweatshirt
Burda 6990 top

My plans for February included muslining a jeans pattern for my husband. But then we found a pair that fit him really well, and I bought 2 so I'm not sure this is a priority for now. I am almost done with the golf club covers for my brother:

And, I was sewing a shirt for my son-in-law's birthday! I hope to get photos of him in it but for now, I have some detail shots. I used McCall's 6044, a TNT for many sewers, and a Brooks Brothers cotton shirting from SR Harris. 

I got these Kylie & The Machine labels from Maker Mountain Fabrics on etsy. The "You Can't Buy This" label was perfect for a gift!

shout out to the edge-stitch foot! It's a game changer!

I used a technique from a 1986 issue of Threads (I have the archive) for the collar. It's very clean, though also, the shirting was pretty rigid and that made it a little tougher to work with cleanly.
I used french seams throughout that I then serged and topstitched. One time I did flat-felled seams but I just don't care enough to go through all of that. 

For the hem, I stitched at 5/8" then turned twice and topstitched. 

For the buttonhole side, I reversed the sewing of the band. I attached on the inside first, turned it out, then pressed under and topstitched. It adds a little bit of texture. 

Excuse the excessive wrinkles in this pic but, I was doing my final press and scorched the front right above the pocket, and I was doing all sorts of stuff to get it out. By the time I noticed these wrinkles, I had already turned the iron off :) I did press them out before packing up the finished shirt!

I very rarely do a buttonhole on the collar stand. I often find that area  little too bulky to do it well but it worked out fine this time!

For the sleeves, I stitched at 1/4", folded under and pressed, then turned up the remaining 1" hem allowance and topstitched. 

For baby, I used McCall's 6016, in the smallest size, and used snaps instead of buttons. 

The collar stand on this pattern. Gah. It took so much effort! AND, I had to actually sew ease stitching to insert these sleeves! Ugh! They really should have been able to be sewn flat. 

I have an Ottobre pattern for shirts that I'm excited to try in the future. It starts at ~2T but at the rate Bert is growing, that won't be too far away! :)

Can't believe this month is almost over!

Sunday, January 31, 2021

January Wrap-up and February Plans

This month was an interesting one...I sewed a total of 8.25 yards and 6 items. The interesting part?

I only sewed Burda magazine patterns this month. This was not intentional! Just...getting good use of my sub I suppose! :)

  • Burda 1/2021 top - 1.25 yards (reviewed here)
    • floral crepe ITY knit from FabricMart (stash)
  • Burda 1/2021 cardigan/jacket - 2 yards (for my daughter, reviewed here)
    • Cream/light tan cotton boucle from SR Harris
    • D-rings, twill tape, sew-in snap
  • Burda 1/2021 cardigan jacket - 2.25 yards (for me!)
    • striped cotton blend boucle from FabricMart (stash)
    • D-rings, twill tape, sew-in snap

  • Burda 1/2018 hoodie - 2 yards
    • black polka-dot sweatshirt knit from FabricMart (stash)
    • zipper, eyelets, bias tape, cord stops
  • Burda 6/2014 jumper - 0.75 yards (baby)
    • denim blue jersey knit from Fashion Fabrics Club (stash)
    • Cricut iron-on, zipper
  • Burda 6/2014 jumper - 0.75 yards (baby)
    • Black & olive cotton lycra knit (considered scraps so not counted in fabric total)
    • Cricut iron-on, zipper
Favorite: Whew. This is tough. It was a SUPER successful month. If I had to choose an absolute favorite, I'd say the hoodie. I've wanted another (sewed this pattern before, here and here) and it has come together so well --save me managing to not have a 22" separating zipper on hand, buying a Coates & Clark (meh) one from JA and it turns out it was NOT separating,  unpicking it, and then waiting on a new one from Wawak. 

FAILS: None! Woohoo! Unless I want to hold that flub above with the zipper against myself :-p

Accomplishments: I think that I sewed simple projects this month, but infused some life into them. I really love how everything turned out. AND, 5 of the 6 were from stash fabrics/scraps. Can't beat that!

I think I wore my Burda cardigan the day after finishing it! :)

This hoodie is SO epic! 
Literally love everything about it. I'll get the zipper inserted this weekend.

One of the jumpers as a WIP :-D

This month, I purchased 8 yards of fabric:
  • 1.5 yards of a Japanese striped knit from Marcy Tilton. I was inspired by Renee of Miss Celie's Pants and her awesome travel wardrobe. I have heard good things about the fabric at M.T., but never ordered. I placed my order on Saturday, January 16th and it didn't ship until the 30th. I wasn't too pleased with that and if Covid is affecting their output to that extent, it may be awhile before I order again. Not saying I don't understand or ragging on the company - *I* don't expect to wait ~3 weeks for a fabric order. 
  • 2 yards of a printed cotton woven from Fabric Mart for my travel bags
  • 2.5 yards of (amazing!) Brooks Brothers shirting from SR Harris for a birthday shirt for my son-in-law and a matching one for baby.
  • 2 yards of boucle woven that was used for my daughter's Burda jacket
None of this fabric will be stashed - woot!

I purchased 5 patterns and 2 Ottobre kids magazines.
  • Ottobre really is the best bet for kids patterns.  I paid $28 with the shipping and exchange rate (WEAK US DOLLAR ALERT!) but for $14 each, sooooo worth it. There's some good stuff in these 2 issues, especially for a California baby (hello bucket hat!). 

  • I also purchased a tee/bodysuit pattern from Brindille and Twig. I've heard good things but at $7.50+ per pattern, Ottobre is hands down the better option. And now, Bert and other babies that I've made gifts for have worn the garments, and I have a better idea of their sizing. 
  • I purchased 3 New Look patterns (I'm a fan of their patterns, the sizing/fit, and the price!)
I also purchased McCall's 6016 for baby as I've seen a ton of great versions and I must've purged that baby shirt pattern that I had in stash (grrrrr!)

I had a machine knitting lesson this month where I focused on learning to use the electronics of my machine - part of the issue is that I have what is technically a KH910 but the board is a KH950. So it has the capabilities of the 950, which isn't in the 910 manual...but it looks like a 910 so the 950 manual wasn't "right". I now know how to use the 950 and 910 manuals together, but there are still things I have to do manually e.g., in the fair isle swatch below, I have to keep track of how many rows to knit before changing colors where as the 950 notifies you of color changes. 

I  feel confident enough to try out a project. For now, I'm thinking something with a bit of fair isle near the hem because I still have to learn how to do decreases while working in a pattern.

A hot tip I posted on IG today:
The phone (in my case iPhone) camera, zoomed in, is an excellent resource for checking needle details!

My January plans from my last post:
finish my cardigan - DONE
knit a cowl for my mom - DONE
make some golf club covers for my brother -   Muslined. He had to cancel our fabric store trip so we're going today. 
make a hoodie - DONE (okay, fine, needs its zipper)

My February plans:
Sew M6044 for SIL
Sew M6016 for baby
Sew the golf club covers
Muslin Thread Theory Fulford jeans for my husband 
Make a pair of plaid, pleated trousers. I'm not sure on pattern yet but I know I did NOT like M7726. Maybe I'll give M7982 a go (previously muslined, never sewed them up). 

Until later!

Tuesday, January 19, 2021

Burda 1/2021 #117

Sometimes, simple is best! 

This pattern is from the Burda 1/2021 issue and it is a very basic garment, but that just means it is waiting for some special treatment!

This sweater knit was picked up December 2018 when my husband took me to SR Harris for a mini shopping spree for Christmas. I don't remember the composition but it feels incredible. It's drapey without being clingy, it's a color that I've been interested in, didn't care for much as a solid, but love this somewhat marled version, and it's warm and cozy. 

I was going to make a dress for it at one point but am glad I held out. It's perfect for this sweater!

As a complete Burda stan, I generally know how to handle sizing just based on the type of pattern and looking at the pattern piece illustrations. 

I cut a 40 neckline and 42 body. added 1" to the back hip and did a cheater 1/2" swayback adjustment. I did a 3/8" forward shoulder adjustment and a 3/4" bicep adjustment.

Lastly, because Burda thinks everyone is Amazonian, I did not add any hem allowances to the body or sleeves! And I'm 5'5" (and a half!)

As you can see below, this adjustment in back without a center back seam doesn't (can't?) fully eliminate pooling but *for me*, it's a much more acceptable amount. 

I adore the full sleeves! The drape of the fabric really helps. I believe the magazine calls for a slightly heftier knit as well (e.g., this isn't so much for lightweight, slinky rayon jerseys). I believe I used 3/8" elastic in the sleeves. 
I don't typically like turn and stitch necklines but it works with this pattern (the neckline is pretty straight in back and while curved in front, it isn't too extreme. I stitched one shoulder seam, serged the neckline, and stitched the other seam (I'm not a fan of finishing necklines flat unless it's kids' clothes or perhaps loungewear). Then I serged the neckline, turned in and topstitched. 

Otherwise, I am nearly done with my version of the Burda cardigan I made for my daughter (most recent blog post). I "just" need to cut out and interface the facings, stitch, trim, understitch, topstitch, and hem :-p

I didn't sew much this weekend, I was all knitting! I found a machine knitter in Rochester, NY that gives private lessons and I learned 2 very valuable things! So I'll be practicing more on my standard gauge but also, I've been getting to know my mid gauge. I picked some Blue Sky Woolstok from my LYS and knitted up this cowl. I kept touching it Monday to see if it was dry because I was SO excited about it! :-p

For the rest of January I plan to:
finish my cardigan
knit a cowl for my mom
make some golf club covers for my brother
make a hoodie (I need a 2nd one because I get really sad when mine is in the laundry!)

There are lots of things I want to sew but I need to be a little(teeny) bit more practical. I love skirts and dresses but it's just too cold (it's 15 today!) and I know I'm not going to wear tights in the house. For whatever reason, that feels a bridge too far. LOL!

I am making my transition to middle age apparently. While I haven't gained any additional weight (I got a quick Covid +10 but that's held steady), everything just feels tight on my belly now! wahhhhh!! I would like several more pair of pull-on pants and need to raid the pattern and fabric stash to decide. 

More later!

Wednesday, January 13, 2021

Burda 1/2021 #120

Yep...Another Burda 1/2021 garment - this time for my daughter. 

When I posted this cardigan/wrap as a 'must sew', my daughter asked me to make her one. She wanted fabric similar to the photo in the mag (sort of tweedy) but I couldn't find anything similar. This cotton boucle from SR Harris was a great bargain - it's a fantastic fabric from their designer section - and the fact that it's cotton made it a wonderful project to sew. It is a bit on the thicker side for this project but again, it was completely malleable as a soft, cotton fiber. 

My daughter is tall and thin with broad shoulders/back. She's several inches taller than I am but our back length is nearly identical. I do have to add quite a bit of length to sleeves and pants for her...and often times, a broad back adjustment. 

Since this is a looser fitting garment, I just cut a size 38 back and 36 front (with 38 shoulder). I added 2" to the sleeve - 1" above the elbow and 1" below. 

I did NOT enjoy tying off all these darts! 14 total!!!

This was actually a really quick sew - even with all of the adjustments and such, I started it on the evening of the 6th, didn't even work on it constantly, and had it boxed up and ready to ship on Sunday afternoon. 


I really like the shape of the sleeves. My darts don't line up perfectly - shhhhhh! When I sew for my daughter, I am not apologetic about cutting corners/taking shortcuts. She's ALWAYS grateful but she's still a 20 something and I know she cannot fully appreciate the labor! 

The instructions call for Petersham for the D-ring side and had it not been for this nice, pliable fabric, that tab for the rings would have been a mess. I ended up layering the seams, pinking the tab ends, and pressing the mess out of it and it isn't too bulky at that section, thankfully. 

For the inside, they have you sew a snap to the petersham and the left front. I used some cute twill tape that I picked up from Craft South when I was in Nashville. 

My corners aren't sharp but - it's fine!

The twill tape and snap are so handy and I love the tag added here on the facing!

I did use some knit stay tape around the front and neckline edge early and topstitched the facing close to the edge. This will definitely be hitting the washer and dryer if i know my kid and I didn't want any potential raw bits with this ravel-ly fabric. 

Mine is up next! And maybe I'll have some pics of her in hers next time.

I kept trying it on but the finished hip here is *much* smaller than my hips so I didn't take any pics in it :-p

In other news, I bought another knitting machine! It's a mid-gauge Brother KX350. It's a plastic bed so benefits are - it's so lightweight! I can use sport weight to worsted on this machine (my standard gauge can use what would be considered lace weight to fingering weight and maaaaaybe sometimes some sport weight). 
The general mechanics are the same but it's a different beast from the metal bed standard gauge. 

Because I can't handknit anymore, I don't have much worsted weight yarn on hand. I'll have to grab a few balls and try a couple of easy projects like a new wrap for working (working from home still but it'll be cold for quite awhile longer here in the tundra!), or a scarf.

I'm a little over a month into my new job and I am SO happy that I made the move! Listen to yourself! Yourself is probably right :-p

We're working from home for the foreseeable future but once Covid is more controlled, I'll be working 2-3 days a week in the office. It's a beautiful location in downtown St. Paul (which is truly gorgeous and architectural and interesting!) (but not fun to drive around, lol!). 

I found some decently fitted, decently made blazers at Ann Taylor last month and am just energized all over again to create a couple of jackets. 

These striped pants are my favorite. I got them from LOFT some time ago. I was SMITTEN with them immediately and the guy that worked there tried to talk me out of them because they're vertical stripes. Dude, I don't follow the rules! :-p 

This one "fits" but, hello biceps! 
I'm not sure I could wear much more than a slim fitting tee underneath.

I have Martin Luther King Jr. Day off (probably the first time this has been a regularly scheduled holiday for me since I worked for the state of MN 15 years ago!) so I will be relaxing and sewing and/or knitting.