Sunday, December 10, 2017

Burda Challenge: 10/2017 #127

I kind of hemmed and hawed over my October Burda project. I liked several of the dresses but just didn't "need" them. And then I liked the cool top with the integrated tie waist. But I cannot find any fabric in the stash that I really want to use so I figured I'd better let it go for now. I don't want to force it and end up with a garment I don't really like or won't wear (ahem; looking at you nice 8/2017 wrap dress from nice black & white fabric that gives me the sads when I put it on). (also, I took pictures of the dress and still don't like it. It's been almost 6 weeks though so I'd better review it. Soon.)

I fell in love with this very simple top/tunic immediately!

I've always used a 40/42 on top for Burda and figured the plus 44 would be too large. Then I wore the top I made for the PR Sewing Bee, remembered I had a chunk of fabric left, and wondered if I could squeeze this top from it. The pattern calls for 1 3/4 yds of 55" fabric which is closer to 1.5 yards of 60" fabric-I had 1 yard and a large scrap. They had you mirror the pieces and cut single layer. I decided that if I used 3/8" seam allowances instead of 5/8" I'd be able to make it work. And I did! Without using the scrap piece!

Regarding the sizing, I figured 1) it's a "sweatshirt" so a little oversized is fine and 2) I just measured into a 46 on bottom vs my "usual" 44. I graded the neckline and shoulder to a ~42 and traced a 44 for the rest. I added 3/8" seam allowances throughout.

This was quick work on the serger and coverstitch (WHY DIDN'T I BUY A COVERSTITCH SOONER!?!?). You can see it's a very simple construction; sew the shoulder seams, hem the neckline, attach the lower front and back (the fronts cross over slightly), side seams, zippers, hem the armholes. I hemmed the armholes last...if I did it again I'd just coverstitch those while it's still flat.

I like their styling with a long sleeved tee. This is the only one I own and it's too small.
I'd just added 'long sleeved tee' to my sewing list. 

I bought these zippers in my last Wawak order for this top. I was going to use the animal print knit I used for V9022, which the weight of that fabric would've worked nicely. The sweatshirt knit must have some rayon in it - it drapes nicely and it wrinkles if you happen to share the same airspace with it.

Somehow the details of the line drawing escaped me. This happens to me a lot. LOL! It tapers in toward the hip. Whyyyyy Burda?! Why!!!

Yep, totally just like the line drawing. Doh.

So mine is snug across the butt and gets hung up.

I took the pic on the left and was like, eh, it's okay. But the picture on the right is totally my normal posture! LOL! I had a New Year's resolution once to try to correct my posture. Fail!

BUT, this is totally a casual at-home type of garment for me. No judgment here, just my own personal comfort level...I don't do athlesiure. Lounging at home - yes, please! And I definitely need more loungewear. I've been saying it for FOR-EVER! I'm going to make it happen this time though. I have a loungewear mini-wardrobe planned!! :) Oh, all that to say that I'm not happy it's snug across the butt but it isn't a deal breaker. 

I could have sworn the model was drinking coffee in the shot and my mug of coffee was there and...
...I went and checked and nope. She has her phone in her hand! :)

NL6530 is stalled. I have to do some unpicking so wahhhhhh. This morning I started tracing the jacket from the 12/2017 Burda. I hope to get those reviews up while I'm working through the jacket. And I made my black sweater knit M6886 though and luuuuuurrrrrve it.

As always, more later!

Thursday, December 7, 2017

Burda 3/2013 #140

I love these pants. I know I say I love a lot of things but I really, really, really love these pants. Okay I really, really love them. Less one "really" because the fabric is decent but I can only imagine if I had used something a little nicer. Ahhhh. So these are already on the 'must make again' list.

I mentioned seeing a pair of pants that I couldn't get out of my mind. My kids' cousin's mom (haha) had them on and I was so smitten. She bought them so long ago she said and can't remember where she got them. I went straight to Burda because, Burda. This pattern isn't *exactly* right -- these cut back in after the hip whereas the inspiration pant was a true trouser fit. It hit the hip and went straight to the floor. But I am so happy with the fit on these that that's okay.

My fabric is an RPL (rayon-poly-lycra) suiting from Fabric Mart in a plum color. I also had a cut of plum crepe and THAT fabric was the color I thought THIS fabric was. This is a bit more red than the other and I was very dubious when I first pulled the fabric out. But thankfully, I went for it anyway!

I usually use a size 44 for Burda pants but went for a 46 as I'm currently fitting in the middle of the two. I apparently have some extra padding! I measured everything and decided I didn't need to add to the back rise at all. I traced the front crotch curve at the size 44 mark and removed 3/4" via a wedge. Where I would normally add back to the side seam what I lost from this adjustment, this time I did not. I trued the CF and proceeded.

I only had 2.5 yards of fabric and thought I'd have issues fitting the pattern pieces (they say 2 yards and that is accurate if your fabric is closer to 60" wide). I decided to use 5/8" side seams and 3/8" everywhere else.

Forgot about the CB zipper. I had a 3/8" seam allowance back there and had to make it work. So my zipper installation isn't perfect, I have some of the tape peeking through. Womp womp.

I took a few pictures of the process of sewing the curved waistband. First, I chalked the seam line around the curve and sewed that before sewing the rest. I used a very small stitch length so I could navigate the curve easily. After sewing, I use my seam gauge to check the that the seam allowance is correct and then sew the rest of the seam. Then, I notch the curve...

And yes, I did have to redo a section on the other half!

and then trim it down.

After turning it out, I use my hemostat in the closed position to smooth out the curve, and then press!


I used my new favorite, the FM interfacing. The pattern called for interfacing waistband and facing so I went with the lightest weight option.

I was SO CONFUSED on the waistband instructions!!! I'd brought the magazine with me to our MinneSEWta meet up and intended to ask a fellow Burda user what she thought...but totally forgot. I finally decided to tackle it and just slowly went through it sentence by sentence. I didn't get as clean a finish inside as I'd like, but I get what they were instructing now.

The front waistband overlaps. They have you sew waistband and facing together first and then attach. But you have to attach the outside of the waistband, that facing, and the outside layer of the inner waistband while leaving the facing of the inner waistband free. It was very weird because once you're outside of that few inches on either side of center front, it's a "normal" waistband application. It took some finagling and I'm not even sure it's worth it! LOL! I slip stitched the upper curve but now I'm torn if I should remove the stitching or if I should slipstitch the entire thing down. If I made them again I'd just use a normal waistband.

I wasn't sold on the butt zipper but I'll take that over a side invisible zipper any day. I hate invisible side zippers.

I basted the side seams and tried them on and YAYYYYYY! I got the seams sewn and got everything pressed and did a blind hem by machine, and attached the facing to the zipper tape by hand.

And then proceeded to try them on a ton of times while bemoaning my inability to get photos. I finished these on SUNDAY!! The only reason I was able to get photos today is because I'm working from home. Because my car is in the shop. Because apparently Ford SUCKS so my transmission control module and clutch died. Even though I tried to get the KNOWN issue repaired several times. And they kept telling me it wasn't bad enough for Ford to repair. Even though there was a class action suit over the issue (which has been settled and is pending final appeals, etc).  So yeah, that's my day! AND THEN I was unable to find my remote. So I had to use the timer. Snap. Walk back. Snap. Walk back. WAHHHH! :)

I love it with the black and white sweater but not with these shoes. So I changed shoes and tried another top :)

my top is RTW...

I compared this crotch curve to my TNT V9032 and it was a very close match!! Also, Burda didn't suggest it (and they normally do...maybe only for fitted pants?), but I stretched the back inseam a bit. It really makes a difference.

Lastly, I added and used a 1 1/4" hem allowance as I knew I'd wear these with heels.

Friday, December 1, 2017

November Wrap-Up and Upcoming Plans

This month I sewed:
  • Vogue 9022 dress in black/white sweater knit
  • Burda 8/2017 coat in red wool fleece
  • Infinity scarf in plaid cotton flannel
  • Ottobre 5/2017 sweatshirt in ivory ponte (for my daughter)
  • Burda 11/2017 skirt in caramel/cream wool blend suiting
Favorites: I had a great month!! I really love all 3 garments (for me) that I finished!

Accomplishments: I will say it sure was something cutting into a perfectly made sweatshirt but in the end, it turned out so cute! Alls I got is a bathroom mirror selfie!

FAILS: None this month unless you want to count my not loving the flannel scarf with the coat. I have worn them together though.

What's many wants...I am really trying to stick to adding the basics that I need. I'm going to do so without focusing on SWAP. I keep pulling stuff out and putting it back trying to figure out my next project. I think forcing myself to think in terms of the SWAP was a little stifling. Even though, as I mentioned, the majority of things in my SWAP were already planned items from my fall/winter sewing list posted in October. I've already made 5 or 6 items on that list.

I have a lot of clothes. Duh, right? (I have a lot of storage too!) But as my sewing has improved and fabric purchasing too, I'm holding on to things much longer than in the earlier part of my journey. So for the rest of fall winter,  my focus will stay on basics. It's me so there's no way I'll make it without any "shiny" creeping in, but I will really be planning to sew from this list.

Black is one of my neutrals. I need a black skirt, trousers, dress and jacket. I need a light colored jacket, more solid colored dresses, a casual pair of pants (that aren't jeans), loungewear and outerwear.

Simplicity 2700, a TNT, in taupe RPL. For summer and fall I was all about my slim fit ankle pants! I wore a pair of my S2700 pants recently and now I need MOAR pants!! :)

Burda 3/2013 (it's a plus pattern) trouser in plum RPL suiting. Over Thanksgiving, I saw a pair of flat front, wide legged trousers and I had to have something similar!  These are already traced off, seam allowance added. I am leaving off the pockets so they should go pretty fast.

Vogue 9032, my TNT, in black wool blend suiting.

Burda 7/2017 in a tan suiting. I like the idea of this casual pant in a suiting. We'll see!

Birkin flares in a medium blue that really gives me a 70s vibe. My first pair of Birkins are a favorite but I messed up on the zipper and so I can only wear them with longer tops. These will be pushed though. Perhaps February or March. Partly because I doubt I'll wear them much during winter and also because denim is particularly hard on my hands, even before the injury.

Butterick 5760, my TNT straight skirt in black wool blend suiting lined with Bemberg.

I almost listed New Look 6530 a dress but it's a top and skirt! I'll use a navy Ponte. I'm still deciding on the contrast. What do you think?

Burda 6853 in black sateen with lace accents as on the pattern envelope.

McCall's 6886 in a maxi length in a black sweater knit. I got this idea and now I gotta have it.

SOMETHING with my black floral rayon challis. I want to wear this fabric! LOL!

Burda 11/2007 in black wool blend suiting. I muslined this awhile back and cut it out and started sewing it in a different suiting. But then I decided I wanted the black one to be the longer view with pockets. I'll have to trace it and make the adjustments again. Boooooooo!

Burda 12/2007 in winter white boucle. I'm excited about this one!

Vogue 1569 in the striped boucle that I went gaga over.

Burda 1/2018 slouchy tee in burnout jersey.

PJ pants, fabric to be determined.

Simplicity 8424 loungewear. I have fabric for all 3 tops and 2 pair of leggings.

My outerwear plans are major! I have 3 pieces I want (whew!). I plan to tackle one per month.

I really want the Clare coat.  I do not own a black coat aside from my down coat. Plus, I already have everything for it! Wool, lining, gold piping (!) and a 'gold' zipper.

It will still be winter here but we'll start to have random warmer days towards the end of March / beginning of April. I can't stop thinking about Burda 8/2017. And I decided it HAD to be navy. And then....the skies parted and there was a 'By The Piece' navy wool melton at Fabric Mart. 2.25 yards for $21. So yeah, THAT is happening. I will be extending the sleeves to full length though.

I need a new trench coat! Mine has been too small since forever but it was my best option in spring as a dressier jacket.  I have the vintage Simplicity pattern. It's a size 16 but it may still be too small because vintage. We'll see how the muslin looks when the time comes.

I loved the Named Isla but they no longer offer a print version and don't offer a copy shop option. I will not pay $20+ for the PDF and print and assemble tiles...Too much.

Otherwise there's Burda 11/2012. They have SO many classic trench coats in plus sizes. The straight sized ones are more 'trench-like'. I know I can adapt and add features but I don't wanna! I even like the angled storm flaps here. And it has a collar stand! I don't WANT to trace a Burda either, but it's Burda and I know it will work.

I'd planned on sewing Simplicity 8470 or the Grainline Cascade. I didn't have a winter coat that was casual. I have a couple of jackets but no coats. I was going to hang with my nephews and had on my denim overalls (love them!!) and all of my winter coats felt FAR too dressy. But I was out and about one day at lunch and saw this coat and was like, this is IT! I did not want a traditional puffer with it's shininess. I was so excited! I tried on the Large and...

...Oh. Well that's a little snug. I put it back, dejected.

But then I found an XL! WINNING!! So I will be saving my black/white/metallic herringbone coating for another day! :)

So to recap, I hope that over December and January (including my 12 day staycation at year end), I can sew:

4 pairs of pants
2 skirts
1 top
3 dresses
2 blazers
1 other topper

And then the loungewear items, which will take way less time on a per-item basis than everything else! I'll probably sneak pieces in between other sewing.

2 pair of leggings
1 pair of pajama pants
4 knit loungewear tops

That was pretty epic!

Can you believe it's DECEMBER already?! How did that happen?? 2017 is almost over!

Wednesday, November 29, 2017

Burda Challenge: 11/2017 #106

It was 29 degrees this morning...way too cold to be standing outside with no coat!

This skirt was the first thing I noticed in the magazine. I wanted it immediately and I wanted it in plum. I have a cut of plum suiting that is a very nice weight, completely opaque and with great drape. I think it's an RPL. When I pulled it out, I decided I wanted to make pants with it instead -- I have a pair of J.Crew slim fit pants in a similar shade. Love the color, hate the fit.

Dear J.Crew: Just because I buy a size 14 pant doesn't mean I've suddenly developed enormous calves and ankles. Slim fit my foot.

ANYway. I almost sidelined the project until I remembered this wonderful piece of wool blend suiting. This fabric was purchased long ago from Fabric dot com. It was my first run-in with them. I ordered 3.5 yds for pants and they sent me 2 yds. Sure, they refunded the difference but how did that help me make my pants?! :) I ended up using it to make my brother a hat from Waffle Patterns (in 2/2014) and the rest of the fabric has languished in the stash.

It was the perfect amount of fabric for this skirt!

I wasn't sure what color to topstitch with and chose the cream. None of the browns I had in stash worked quite right and in the end, I wanted the contrast like the magazine version. I could not do that amount of hand stitching so I used double thread and the longest stitch length to topstitch, I like it!

I went with a size 42 front and 44 back which I almost always use this combo with skirts (even Big4, it's 16 front, 18 back). Burda always has a little too much hip curvature/projection for me so I just sewed that area a bit straighter after basting.

I am not a huge fan of petersham waist finishes and decided to draft a facing. Once the front was assembled, I folded it in half and traced the curve onto paper. I made the facing 2.5" deep. I like this depth and I almost always just serge the edge.

My brass zipper is from Wawak, snagged for a whopping $.53!

Their site is slow (they've assured me they're working on it!) but it is SO worth it. How much is a metal zipper at JA? At least $2-3...even a coupon doesn't make it come close! When I place a Wawak order, I tend to 1) look ahead to planned projects 2) look at my fabric stash 3) somewhat like 2, look at the colors I wear. e.g., I have rare occasion for say, a yellow zipper, but I have greys and blues in several shades and lengths. And black in several lengths. And they frequently run buy 2, get 1 free promos.

NAYY, it's just a great resource.

There's not much else to say about the skirt; it's essentially an A-line midi. It went together well, and was relatively quick to sew. I used my walking foot to topstitch and serged all seams.

I like the length - oh, I did add 5/8" hem allowance, which I normally do not with Burda. I hemmed it at 3/4" so I probably could've done my usual. I topstitched the hem but I don't love it. The brown is a close match and it doesn't stand out so honestly, I'll probably leave it.

It does emphasize how straight I am (viewed front-on), which I'm not normally fond of -  I am the person saying YES! Give me things that accentuates/exaggerates the hip - please! - but I don't have time to worry about whether every single thing is the most "flattering" to my body type/shape. I mean, right!? If I put it on and it makes me happy, I call it good! :)

I love wine/burgundy and camel together. But living in MN means I encounter 7,000 Target employees a week, at least, and so the combo always makes me a tiny bit cringey despite my fondness of the pairing.

Actual outfit that day so, excuse the wrinkles! And because I live in the tundra, getting photos in the winter months is HARD. Our kitchen had amazing lighting midday but I did not want to look like a weirdo (which I *totally* do anyway!!) so I was sneaking and taking pics. LMAO!

 This one was a winner for me!!

Sunday, November 19, 2017

Unselfish Sewing: Ottobre 5/2017

Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU for the kind comments on my coat! I love it and with the exception of 2 days, I've worn it every day since I finished it! I get not just compliments but stares - I know they're wondering why I am wearing SUCH a bright coat! LOL!

I had to take a break after finishing the coat. I think working with the wool did a bit of a number on my hand. Last week my daughter sent me a text, "Can you make this for me?". I said sure!  It's a (basic) sweatshirt with large eyelets and wide ribbon through the eyelets. It retails for $79 at Urban Outfitters:

I'd just gotten a cut of cream/off white ponte from Fabric Mart and had her wash it up. I got home and pulled it out of the dryer and OMG! It is AMAZING. It's a viscose/nylon/lycra blend and it's thick with awesome stretch and recovery. I quietly folded THAT up and put it back in stash and pulled out this knit that I was previously hoarding. Hahahaha!

I spent a long time thinking of a pattern to use. I buy raglan patterns for her for tees/sweatshirts because of her broad shoulders. I knew it would be fine but I WANTED to use a crew neck with slightly dropped shoulder.

I was doing laundry and brought my Ottobre sweatshirt up to dry flat (it's wool double knit...yummy). Eureka! This is a crew neck with bands as finishing and has a slightly oversized fit and dropped shoulder!

I traced off a size 40 for her (with Big 4 she wears a size 10). I meant to shorten it an inch but forgot. She's tall with long limbs and a short torso.  I added 1" to the sleeves and should have added 2. I left off the front pockets by tracing the top and bottom front as one piece.

College students are hard to pin down so you get dress form pics - boo! And, on Lily who is a tad bit (haha) bigger than my daughter.

I have a large ribbon stash and she picked this one. I want to find something closer to the inspiration. If not a very narrow stripe then perhaps a gingham. I'm going to look on my next SR Harris visit.

Nothing to see in back :)  The stitching on the back is from the tag I sewed in. I used a very narrow zigzag.

I had a HECK of a time with the grommets/eyelets (what IS the difference, anyway?!)! I had 6 this size in my stash and thought - yay! Luckily, I am smart :-p I went and bought a pack of 10. I did the first 3 just fine, ruined 2, set the 4th, ruined another one, set the 5th, ruined another one and set the 6th.

That's how it goes, right!?

The aftermath! LOL!!!!

I am certain that it took more time to set the grommets than it did to trace, cut and sew (serge) the entire sweatshirt! 

I have to add, again, that this neckband piece is *perfectly* drafted. I almost always ignore neck bindings. This one works. 

If I nail the girl down, I'll get a pic! :)

Saturday night I traced off the Burda 11/2017 skirt and decided I'd go ahead and cut out the front panels. Then, what the heck, I may as well sew them... :) Today I pressed everything, tested a couple of colors for topstitching and got that done too.

The rest will have to wait until next weekend. I'm excited to get this finished!!

Lastly, I have partnered with Circuit and have a shiny new Cricut Maker!! I will have to learn it, I've never used one before, and will be sharing at least a couple of projects here. But I think I'll use it a lot! I'm looking forward to it. As a result, I am back on Instagram. Find me as dressmakingdebacles!