Sewing Plan: Butterick 5526 (B5526)

I'll be sharing my new sewing space soon! But suffice to say, the paint, new floors, and reorganization really sparked my desire to make. 

I wanted a straightforward project, but not a fast project. I wanted to spend some time in the process, and decided on a button front shirt. I knew I wanted a more casual top (not too fitted) that was fairly neutral and could mix and match readily with skirts and pants in my wardrobe. 

I also decided on short sleeves. I recently thrifted a blue & white striped cotton shirt with long sleeves and I just don't really wear long sleeves in summer - even rolled up!

I wear this chambray version of Burda 7136 ALL the time. I made it in 2016 and it has only gotten better with time. 

I was going to go for the TNT (I've made this pattern 5 or 6 times) but ultimately decided to branch out. I searched my stash and decided on the oldie but goodie, Butterick 5526. 

Imagine my surprise to find THREE copies of this pattern in my pattern drawers! Oy! I got back ups to my back up! Haha!

I opened the first one, and huzzah! the size 14 was already cut out. I chose a thin striped cotton shirting from the stash. There was no label on it, so I don't have a source for it, but it's been in the stash for a while.

I'll be using Fashion Sewing Supply's ProSheer Elegance Light interfacing (HERE) and shirt buttons from Wawak (HERE). I swear by FSS interfacing. It's pretty much all I've used for about 5-6 years. I remember one year snagging a deal on some interfacing from Fabric Mart at $1/yard and it was VERY comparable to FSS. Aside from that, I keep going back for more, even as the price has increased a bit. 

Her interfacing is 60" wide (vs Pellon which is 20") and is preshrunk. It performs fabulously. I usually keep the Light, Medium, Couture, and Tricot on hand, in white and black. 

As I edit this for posting, I have the collar, buttonholes, and buttons left to do. Looking forward to this addition and sharing a bit more about the process. 

Tap, Tap, Tap...Is this thing on?

Hey y'all!!

Apparently, it has been approximately 539 days since I last blogged. And let me tell you, a lot can happen in 539 days!

I think most that follow the blog follow me on IG, so probably not news but since my last post I've purchased a home (new sewing room to share! woohoo!!), got a divorce (joyfully!), and became a grandma again (for the 3rd time!).

While I've certainly sewn a few things, I have not been sewing like I'd like. I'm thinking my recent sewing room upgrades will change that, and I'm excited to reconnect with the sewing community without relying on IG. The algorithm continues to be an issue, the exclusive focus on Reels is an issue, and now, they've made hashtags useless. 

I've always excitedly shared new makes here, but I think I'm going to move to a different format, especially since I'm sewing less overall. I hope to share projects in 2-3 parts: 

• planning;
• fitting and/or construction; 
• construction and/or modeled photos

Planning: pattern choice, fabric choice, notions needed (and where to acquire them!)

Fitting: I have some standard changes that I make for various pattern brands that I sew regularly (Big4 patterns, Burda magazine, and Style Arc), but I will also share in these posts the resources used or similar resources available to determine fit changes that may be needed and how to do them. Depending on the garment, this post may include construction information (e.g., a simple knit dress or straight skirt may not have a lot of fitting details or construction steps).

Modeled photos: This post may include construction if it is a more complex garment, along with the modeled photos. I hope to share items after they have been integrated into my wardrobe so that I can talk about what works, what may not work, and/or what I might do differently on a future make (or if the pattern won't be revisited!).

I will forever state, vehemently, that I am not a teacher! But, as my sewing continues to improve, I'd like to be a resource for people who care about the overall craft and not just shiny finished goods and high-quality photos. I'm *considering* a YouTube channel, but I'm not sure yet if I can commit to that. 

I am also diving heavier into machine knitting. I can't be a resource on that topic yet...but will be sure to share as much info as I can in each project post for anyone who may be interested. 

I have dove head-first into DIY since buying my house! I've done so many projects and have started a bit of amateur woodworking, so you might see that too! (it's MY BLOG! haha!). 

Lastly, while I don't do much general crafting or Cricut crafting anymore, those posts will be here as well. I am no longer a Cricut ambassador. They dropped me after I gave an honest (but not negative!) review of the Cricut Joy. Booooooo.

For now, here is a picture that brings ME great joy...lounging in my new hammock in my backyard :-D

Happy Anniversary to Me!

Today, I had one of those Facebook memories pop up and today is the 10th anniversary of when I bought my first sewing machine!

I bought a Singer Talent 3321 from my local JoAnn that day. And as you know... the rest is history! :)

I sewed on that machine from January 2013 until around April 2015 when I got a Singer Stylist 7258 (it was SUCH a great machine at its price point). I kept that until spring 2017 when I treated myself to a Singer Quantum Stylist 9985 and Brother 2340CV coverstitch for my birthday. 

During the pandemic, I got the Janome Skyline S5 (and upgraded my Brother serger to a Babylock!).

I haven't sewn much in the last year but boy was a busy little bee that first 3-4 years. I sewed HUNDREDS of garments. Some are still in my wardrobe. 

I made this coat on that little $120 Singer!

And these jeans!

And this quilt!

I was so fearless in my sewing! I didn't shy away from anything! Nothing felt "too hard". I just kept sewing and sewing and sewing and one day, I got really good at it :)

I am always so grateful that I took the leap, and always wish I'd started sooner. It truly is a lifelong skill with infinite opportunity for development. 

So while I haven't been sewing a lot, the craft remains such an integral part of my life. Here's to many, many more years of sewing!

Most recent project: 

Burda 12/2020 skirt in an eggplant/plum wool. I wore it for the first time today and I LOVE it. I should have lined it but I was being lazy. :)

And I've started some more knitting! 

We had two baby girls born into our family this month, and of of my closest friends became a grandma to a baby girl as well. So expect a couple more things to pop up! 

Welcome, 2023!

It's so easy to slip away from the blog, isn't it? Eesh. 

Though I haven't been sewing very much and the sewing I have done?? Well...Minnesota winters always present a challenge for photo taking and I just don't have the energy right now to be bothered. 

I think last year may have been the first in like...forever that I didn't do an annual wrap-up! But, I didn't track my sewing, pattern purchases or fabric purchases at all. And...I don't have the energy to figure it out! LOL!

Looking at my 2022 goals posts, My plan was:

• Trench Coat - Nope.
• Burda blazer - Nope.
• Formal black dress - Nope.
• LBD or jumpsuit - Nope.
• Men's blazer - Nope.
• Then, I pivoted with a plan to sew "A Dozen Drafts", but the year had other plans for me. Womp. 

I did sew a couple things last year that are absolute wardrobe staples now:

Burda 2/2013 

(I have a bright blue pair in progress right now)

McCall's 7834 

(and then I made it in white for my birthday!)

Today, January 12th, is actually the anniversary of the day I got my Beatrice form! I still owe you all a write-up and review! This month - I promise.

I don't have a fully formed plan for 2023 yet. I just want to get back to enjoying my sewing space. I am reminded always how much I love blazers so I really want to sew 1 or 2. And, as much as I love Burda for their style and fit, I'm going to have to either find a different pattern. One of the tricky things with more complex garments is knowing what's best practice for seam allowances, etc. I was really loving that vest I was working on and I realized I did something wrong with the facing vs. jacket hem allowance and got discouraged and threw the entire thing away. MEH! 

I also find myself with the same outerwear holes that have persisted. I need 2 more in-between pieces. Which for me are pieces for the 30/35 degree weather. I have two handmade coats that WOULD be good here but I made them both collarless. LOL! The fabric is warm and they are roomy (for layering), but both collarless! And a scarf isn't enough to make them usable for those temps. I also WANT MY TRENCH! I think it's been 4 years now that I say I want to sew a trench coat. I CAN SEW A TRENCH COAT! 

Oh, and skirts. More skirts! :)

I have WIPs for the grandsons - an outfit from Ottobre 4/2022, and I plan to make matching hoodies too. 

Machine knitting goals:

• Sweaters for the grandsons - No :cry: I got ready to start them and realized I did NOT have enough yarn
• St. John copycat pants - Not yet! But I did procure wool crepe yarn! Woot!
• Raglan sweater - SIGHHHHH. I have a WIP and I made a big mistake so I have to get my mojo back to finish it.
• Sweater with set-in sleeves - Yes! AND I won the 3rd place prize in the Minnesota State Fair!
• Dolman sweater with detail - Yes! I made a couple of them! 
• Socks - I made ALL the socks! 
• Wrap or Poncho - Nope. 

I made a bunch of gifts once I started to feel better during recovery. I made 4 hats (plus 1 for myself!), 5 pair of fingerless mittens (plus 1 for myself!), a pair of flip-top mittens (plus 1 for myself!), 2 cowls, and 2 pair of socks. 

My machine knitting exploded this year! I have ventured into a few areas unexpectedly, but there's more that I want to do! I have yet to make a finished item with my bulky machine, so that's on the agenda. And I am determined to make a fair isle garment. I'm going to do it!!!

Personal goals:

• Graduate school - Definitely won't be ready to apply Feb 1. When I made this goal last year, I had no clue that the application deadline was so early in the year. So hopefully, I can apply mid-year for Spring entry. 
• Read 3 books per month - I've barely read any books! Wait, does self-help count? Because I always read self-help books! LOL! I did read a handful of books while I was recovering from surgery, but no where near 3 per month. 

I'm so determined to have a good year. 

Work is really hectic right now and not likely to improve in the near future. I spent weeks just crashing on the couch once I logged off. This past week, I've been a lot better at not doing that. I've tried to expend some energy doing ANYTHING else. Sewing, knitting, decluttering, something. 

And, I've already attended 3 crafting meet-ups (1 via Zoom) this year! Starting the social aspect of sewing and crafting off right!

Sewing WIP - Style Arc Alexi

I wanted a fitted, zip-front turtleneck and spent a long time thinking about how to do it. I was super over-complicating it. Finally, it dawned on me that a 1/4 zip fleece is basically the same concept, and I found a pictorial which was exactly what I was thinking. Doh.

I had to search high and low for my printed copy of this pattern. I KNEW I'd printed it, but could not find it anywhere.  I'd given up and went into the spare room I'm using as an office, intending to print another copy. Ah! There's another bin in this closet! It was right on top - YAY! 

I haven't sewn a Style Arc pattern in a long time and was a little disappointed when I saw that the size 14 was printed. I've always used a size 12 on top with them and thought I'd have to reprint it (spoiler alert - the 14 is the right size!). It took FOREVER to assemble it - an entire Dateline episode! - and I was really annoyed that the front and back were full pattern pieces - aka a waste of paper. 

I traced everything off, made a 1" bicep adjustment on the sleeve, and called it a night. And then I couldn't find the traced collar piece! BLEH!

This morning, I got started on cutting everything out. I knew the collar as drafted was too tall for what I wanted. In a softer jersey, it would double fold or puddle around the neck nicely, but I was using this firm ribbed knit and inserting a zipper. I decided on a 3" height and then, for some unknown reason, changed it to 4". Sigh. You know where this is going, right? 3 inches would have been perfect. 

I have a lovely, full stash of zippers and this 11" brass zipper with cream tape was perfect. I only wish I'd double-checked the collar height once I had it cut out because I could have shifted it down an inch, easily. 

I marked the center line on the pattern front and fused a 1 1/8" wide strip of tricot interfacing to the wrong side. Cut it down the center and angled to the corners (like with welt pockets), and used Wonder tape to hold it all in place. The zipper insertion went FLAWLESSLY!

The collar scrunches down because 4" is a tad too tall :( but it's still cute!! I need to topstitch the zipper and then I'll be ready to get the rest sewn up. 

I recently finished a dress from the same fabric and I adore it. This fabric was a Fabric Mart find this spring at $3.99 a yard (I snagged 4 yards). There's easily another top worth - ha! Hopefully I can model them, soon.

Here is my recently finished knit sweater :-D

I've also been knitting some gifts and can't wait to share them. Here is a pair of fingerless mitts I snuck in for myself, using the same yarn from my State Fair socks :-D

I knew it would be a close call and yet I was determined to make foldover cuffs. I knitted the first one completely and started the second one. I got to row 72 (of 104) and ran out of yarn. So I frogged them, counted up the total number of rows knitted (because I needed thumbs, too!) and adjusted my pattern. I would have had *just* enough of the patterned yarn to do them in full, but I like the contrast ribbing too :)

Speaking of those socks...I bought a shadow box to frame the socks and my ribbons. Right now, I'm just checking the layout, but I love it! Can't wait to get this mounted. 

I want to sew my blue pants, but also pants with zippers are a real no-no right now. I'm not sure if it's worth spending my energy there, if I can't fit them properly. Maybe I'll give it a bit longer. I wore real pants today to run a few errands and my incisions were very angry with me. oy!

There are a couple of skirts I'd like to sew and a couple of tops, too. I go back to work on the 19th and those first two weeks back will be 3-day weeks (WHEW!) so, I may be able to eek out a couple more garments before the year ends.

OH MY GOSH I CANNOT BELIEVE IT IS ALMOST 2023!!!!