Sewing Plan: Fall Mini Wardrobe

I haven't had sewing successes lately :( But I started a wool skirt and I am excited about it. So I'm going to FOCUS and create some items that I hope make me happy! 

Initially, I wanted a slit-front skirt and was going to make a black wool version of S8175. Ultimately, I decided I wanted a perfectly flat-front and am going to use M3830, view B, with side slits instead of a back walking vent. 

I also plan to knit a version of this ribbed top I saw in an old Passap magazine (the 60s Passap patterns are a treasure trove of beautiful design!). 

I want to make a pair of trousers too in a taupe or tan or other non-white nude, and at least two silk tops.

For the pants, I'm going with a TNT for me, V9032. It's been awhile since I sewed them, but ankle pants have ruled for years. This version I sewed is exaclty what I want right now!

For the tops, I plan to remake S8216 and B5965. It's been a LONG time since I've made either, but they both worked extremely well for me and I really (really!) need a win or two. 

B5965

S8216

If I can keep up the momentum, I really(!) want to make B6901 vest and pants...so we'll see how things go. 

February Wrap-Up and March Plans

Another month down, 2022 is a runaway train!! :)

This month I sewed 1 yard. Ah. I'm going to get my mojo back. I can feel it! 

I sewed Burda magazine 10/2021, a top in a deep brown silk. I also finally made some good progress on Simplicity 1325. I did not cut out anything for A Dozen Drafts. But also, it was a busy month. 

While on a trip to Vegas and the Phoenix area, I visited SAS Fabrics. They carry a lot of fabrics that I have purchased and have seen at Fabric Mart. The colors in this print ITY jumped out at me and the piece was 1 5/8 yard, at $3.99/yd. SCORE. I am thinking of making Vogue 1250 if I can get the pieces to fit (my size calls for 1 7/8 yd)

I had another set of goals for February: Finish 2 sewing projects, Finish 2 knitting projects, Read 2 books. 

• I finished one sewing project (the brown top) and added the bodice lining to my S1325 dress. I hand basted in a zipper and let the side seams out a bit through the middle back and waist:

I started this on January 26th. It stalled and it finally dawned on me that I wasn't fully feeling it. But I wanted to finish it to check the fitting process on my Beatrice (I'll talk more about this fit on me vs what I observed on my dressform when I review the pattern). I put a couple of tops that I'd layer this with on the dressform and got inspired to get back to it. 

CUTE! :)

• I finished THREE knitting projects! Wooohoo!! My hat and scarf, blogged here 

and I finally finished my grandson's sweater:

• I read one book: Black Cake by Charmaine Wilkerson

It was a really great read! An extremely moving story, characters that came to life on the pages, and it was a page turner. This was Ms. Wilkerson's debut novel and I can't wait to read more.

• Exercise at least 30 minutes, 5 times a week. 

I did not meet this goal, but I did pretty well and lost 4lbs from Feb 1 to Feb 27.

I finished the month with a 1:1 with the biggest grandboy. Each time I see them, I can't believe how much they've changed. It's so wondrous watching kids grow up. 

It was a balmy 37 degrees in Minneapolis on Saturday. We went to an indoor playground, stomped the squishy snow, and went to lunch. <3

What's Next?

For March, I am setting more goals!!! 

• Swap out some closet items - Though spring hardly ever actually shows here, the body and spirit knows! :) I always struggle with my wardrobe around this time. so I will pull in some brighter/softer colors to get through the rest of this dreaded winter. 

• Finish S1325 - It needs skirt attached to bodice, zipper, and hem.

• Sew another garment for A Dozen Drafts - I don't think March will be the month I catch up, but want to definitely get another garment done this month.

• I’m managing the Upcycle Contest on Pattern Review this month! 

• Black cardigan - I have a very nice wool double knit, and would like to make a longer cardigan. I feel like that's a wardrobe hole.

• Finish one WIP - I have 4 WIPs that I really do want to finish and will get to at least one of them this month. 

• Make 2 machine knitted items - can be for me or for gifts. I just need to get myself in there using my machines more consistently.

• Read 2 books - Reading more is an important goal for me. The pandemic left me spending way more time sitting in front of the tube than I normally would. 

• Continue working on exercise, diet, and flexibility. 

Until later!

January Wrap-Up and February Plans

This month I sewed 2 1/4 yards from stash - the Simplicity 1325 which is still in WIP status. 

I made really good progress from the time I started the fitting process, then I got hit with a pretty bad migraine attack and lost all of Saturday and Sunday. Womp, womp. 

But, I have always counted fabric totals as "out" from the time I cut the project out, so it will still be recorded under January's totals. I "just" (haha) need to sew the bodice and lining together, insert the zipper, attach it to the skirt, and hem! That's "all"! :-p

I added 5 patterns to the stash from Style Arc, and also added 11 yards of fabric - ow. I bought 9 yards from Fabric Mart (not sure why the last photo is missing, it's a 100% cotton double border print. A french blue background with pale pink and white irregular spots. It's very pretty and I can't wait to make a dress from it this summer!

We flew into Nashville for my stepdaughter's wedding the second to last weekend of the month. Between the two of us, we have 2 girls and 3 boys. Both girls are married now and neither of the boys are! (the youngest stepson is just 16). The wedding was beautiful and my husband was honored by his Papa duties.

I was all prepared to make a dress but then work and life got in the way. So I ordered this, crossed my fingers, and decided I'd wear my navy dress from my husband's birthday if it didn't work out. This size Large is a tiny bit more snug in the hips than I'd normally go for, but it wasn't tight and worked fine. I LOVED the icy gray color on me!

On our way to the airport, I stopped by Craft South (The Fabric House is closed on Sundays) and picked up 2 yards of this Kaufmann Essex Linen/Cotton blend. I am often drawn to this color, and then remember I don't care to wear it. DOH! LOL! And, it's just the color+my complexion that I'm not a fan of. Not by my face, not on my lower half...it's just not my fave. I could potentially wear it as a jacket as the rest of the outfit would pull away. I have already kind of decided to make matching outfits for the grandsons though...so we'll see :-)

My normal everyday look + business + travel left me looking pretty tired on the day of the wedding. After googling some tips, I came across a makeup blogger that is my new fave! She also has hooded eyes and while she has dark circles under the eye that I don't contend with yet, I do have the darkness and discoloration on my eyelids that drives me crazy. The tips have helped tremendously! 

Here are a few looks where the eye makeup just really brightens up my whole face. Yay! I'm a newb and I kept it pretty basic with stuff from Ulta. Got some handmade items in there too ;-)

M6796 top

V1323 top

Burda 5/2020 silk top with M6996 cardigan

For February, I have 4 goals:

• Finish 2 sewing projects (yes, I reserve the right to include the WIP as one of the two!!)
• Finish 2 machine knitting projects. There's a WIP I want to finish, and I realized I do not own a black scarf. I'm not sure how that's possible, but it is so! I need to actually swatch, but I wanted to try out a couple of tuck stitch patterns. I want something simple, that will remain tightly woven (it's Minnesota after all!), but tuck stitch patterns curl less on the raw edges, so that's why I'm going that route instead of stockinette.

• Read 2 books
• Complete 30 minutes of exercise 5 days per week (yoga and walking counts)

I haven't decided on my February Dozen Drafts project yet. I have another wedding to attend in Denver in March...so maybe I'll make something for that :)

More later!

2021 Goals and Plans

For whatever reason, I can't get myself to commit to an actual "Make 9" plan but last year, I liked my little box o' 9 goals (even though I only achieved 1.5 of them) and when I wrote out my main plans for this year, it was 9 things! Hmm. I still won't call it a Make 9 plan because it isn't 9 garments, it's moreso 9 goals (again!).

• I guess I don't need a trench coat but my old is dead and I really, really want one. I have the fabric, lining, and notions for it already!

• I have accepted that I just love toppers. Cardigans, blazers, other jackets...and since I'm not having to like, store garments in the linen closet or anything...I won't beat myself up over having "too many". So I have 2 for SURE that I want to make. Burda 2/2020 (in a red/white herringbone wool suiting) and 6/2019 (in an irregular striped cotton boucle)

• I thought I wanted to make bras then was quickly disillusioned by the expense (I mean, $50 for a kit AND I have to sew it!!?!). Then I decided I was going to try it anyway. Then I realized I didn't like any of the patterns all that much. Then I had my reduction surgery and figured I'd just live in bralettes. Here's the thing about reductions (without any other reconstruction or implants) - you have less tissue but essentially, the same boobs! So the bra that has the right underwire and fits in the band doesn't fit well in the cups (so-called sister sizing has never worked for me. I cannot trade off band/cup size). A 36C is a little too snug around the body (I've started using an extender adding just 1 set of "loops") and the wire digs. But a 38C is too big period. A 38B definitely has wires that are too small, and on and on. And I have shallow breasts that are fuller on bottom (demi or balconette works best). So I have to do some research. And I have lots of supplies that were scored for cheap (Surge Fabrics!!) so I won't feel so bad about the experimental phase. 

• Still aiming to sew some of the silk stash. No specific projects right now, Just get at least 2 pieces sewn this year. 

• At least 1 machine knit garment per quarter. I am an adventurer and I like learning new things. But whew! Machine knitting has a steep learning curve when you start talking about actual garments. I am very excited though and a commitment to just do it will help. 

I had dropped a stitch on my sweater's neckline and didn't know how to fix it. (thank you Renee! I got it done!). Then I excitedly sewed up the last raglan seam and started seaming the side seams. And in my infinite wisdom (or impatience), I went to do my usual trying on and holding sides and contorting and...OMG I CAN'T GET IT OVER MY HEAD! Doh!

But the beginner machine knitting group and others on IG reminded me that I can do a cut and sew neckline and salvage it. YAY! This method is often used when you don't want to bother with neckline shaping (it's tedious and prone to error!). So I'm going to give it a shot because, what's the worst that can happen!? I'll be unable to not wear it more? Hahahahaha!

machineknittingetc.com (nayy) has lots of old knitting magazines free to download. Okay, there's some kookie 80s stuff but so many of these silhouettes are a) still awesome or b) back in style. Here are a few that I got excited about. 

So my commitment isn't to any specific item aside from the fact that it has to be a fully completed garment (not a scarf or hat or blanket). 

• Okay, so maybe it's odd that I'm adding travel bags when...Covid...but it's something I've wanted for *ever* and, why not? It's not like they'll go bad while they're sitting in my suitcase waiting to be used. I want to sew a laundry bag, a jewelry bag/pouch, and 5 shoe bags (2 for flats/sandals, 2 for heels/bulkier shoes, 1 for sneakers). Yeah, I know, but I often take 3-5 pair of shoes on ANY trip. It's a thing. I haven't decided if I'm going to go super basic or what. I may also find an awesome print - or - a plain cotton and decorate the bags with the Cricut. We'll see!!

example from West Elm 

• A blazer for my husband. I was going to bite the bullet and pay $69 for the velvet needle board from Mood then *poof*, it was gone, and says it isn't reordable. WAH! The fabric for his blazer is a mid-wale corduroy in a nice, cool blue. I'm excited, I think I'm just nervous it won't turn out. 

• I also want to sew jeans for him! He already has a tough time buying them, and then the current style is usually for a slimmer fit than he'd like. 

• A quilt for Bert. I did knit a blanket for him and they use it all the time <3 but I want to make him his very own, special blankie. Maybe add some texture. If they didn't live in a tiny LA apartment, I'd be sewing up a storm for him!!!

Other, general sewing goals include:

• MORE Burda! I sewed 19 or 20 Burda garments last year and yes, most were from prior years (only 4 were from 2020 issues and 1 from 2021-- I've already sewn 2 patterns from the January 2021 issue y'all!), I have so many patterns marked off as wanting to sew and they work well in general (I do need to figure out the sleeve fit for me on woven garments). 

• Continue to limit pattern purchases (which goes hand in hand with the above). I had a goal of $50 on patterns for 2020 and spent just under $55 and purchased 25 patterns. 

• Continue to focus on sewing from stash. 70% of my garments made in 2020 were from stash fabrics. That's pretty good! But I still purchased a lot. I want to get that ratio to 50% or better of in vs. out.

• Complete the machine knitting classes I've purchased (knitleader, sock knitting, using the garter bar,  and intarsia). 

Personal, life goals include: 

• Practice stress reduction

I'm a homebody and have felt fairly fine throughout quarantine. On advice of my therapist, I need to go outside daily--even if it's just for a 3-minute walk. I also need to practice mindfulness and am implementing some routines to help with that. I'm on day 3 of yoga practice and have a nighttime (attempt!) meditation routine (my brain never shuts up!).

• Clean up my diet for relief from inflammation/pain. I swear to goodness, my body said, "40? are we 40?!?! We're 40 now?!!!!! TIME TO GO HAYWIRE!!!!!" Haha! I did an elimination diet for a couple weeks and WOW, I felt so much better with no dairy and very little gluten. So, I suppose this is what responsible adults do, or whatever. :-p

• Read more. In 2019 I surpassed my reading goal and forgot to track for 2020. I went to the bookstore (IN REAL LIFE!) and they were having a sale so I have lots of new reads. I'm going to aim for 24 this year. 

I hope that this year is ALL that you wish for and MORE! 

Next up on my sewing table is this topper from (dun-da-dah!) Burda 1/2021. I'm making one for my daughter and for me! This should be fun!!

A Bunch of Tops

I didn't get a chance to update here but put a post on Instagram (here) explaining why I was postponing Faye's Tops That Pop. It took a bit for me to wrap my head around my feelings about everything and ultimately, I don't feel good uplifting brands that are choosing to be silent. So, soon. We will do this soon.

These tops were made pre-challenge.  I've made all of these patterns before so they're getting lumped into this post. 

This fabric is a cotton lycra knit from Girl Charlee. I haven't ordered from there in years because of a bad experience and reading about many others' experiences. 

This fabric felt really nice when I pulled it out of the package - soft and smooth! It was much, much less so after washing. I wore it and washed it again and bleh. It won't last long :(

Size 14 with sleeve hack mentioned here and lengthened it 6" (the top in the pattern is a peplum). I intended to length the sleeves but forgot. 

Next up was another version of the Kommatia tee pattern in this printed cotton knit, also from Girl Charlee. Same pattern adjustments here - size Medium with an extra 2.5" added at the hip. 

When I made this Ottobre tee, I liked the cute print but I joked that it looked like I should be working in the pediatric wing of the hospital. This gives me the same vibes! WAHHHHH. I'm not making any more cotton knit print tees! LOL!!!

On the right, I tried it with a few garments before sewing the neckband and hemming to be sure I should finish it. I do not love it. I love the print, but the garment is meh for me. 

Next up was this top intended to copy a top I saw at LOFT. I made this pattern previously here. I chopped the sleeve but should have cut it a bit shorter. I was aiming for more of an extended shoulder look vs. a short sleeve.

The color is so me, the fabric felt really nice even after washing, but it was HORRIBLY off grain and had a giant hole in it. 

I was not pleased and will not be ordering from them again. 

Lastly, I saw this Jason Wu top during some of my RTW idea gathering time and decided to use the Ogden to copy it. 

I used my normal size 12, chopped off 6" and decided on an 8" ruffle at 2.2x the width.

I used a cotton poplin that was in my donate bin. I hated the top I made with it but I thought it was perfect for this little summer top. 

Also, I really wish I had made the ties like twice as long!!

I hemmed the gazillion miles of ruffle with my rolled hem foot. I've mentioned before that I had lots of trouble making rolled hems until I got my new machine and used the foot that came with it. EFFORTLESS. I think it's the foot design and if you have a rolled hem foot that gives you the blues, try another one! Especially if you have a machine that takes universal feet.

I promise you, rolled hems are absolutely effortless now!

April Wrap-Up and May Plans

How are you holding up out there? So far, I'm doing well. We are all staying healthy, I'm still working full-time, and sewing & crafting up a storm.  I am grateful for the opportunity to work from home in that, I am still collecting a paycheck and my employer understands that health & safety comes first.  But I am so not a work from home full-time person. I would never choose this full time! I could see working from home a day or so per week but not full time! gah!!

I DO like having a few minutes here and there throughout the day for sewing or crafting or exercising or food prep. Makes a huge difference in what I can accomplish each day. NOT that I am one of those people yelling about how productive we need to be during quarantine. I'm just a natural busy body. I've spent the odd day here or there in the bed (like the Saturday I literally stayed in bed til 2:30 p.m.!)

This month, I sewed 6 items for a total of 11.5 yards.

• Simplicity 2246 dress - 2 yards
• striped double brushed poly from Fabric Mart - stash
• buttons, elastic

• McCall's 6754 dress - 2 yards
• floral double brushed poly from Fabric Mart
• elastic

• McCall's 8028 jumpsuit - 2 yards
• distressed french terry knit from Fabric Mart - stash
• elastic

• Burda Mag 4/2019 jacket - 2.5 yards
• black cotton twill from Mood
• buttons, D-rings

• Burda Mag 5/2020 top - 1.5 yards
• black cotton (voile? lawn?) - stash
• buttons

• Burda Mag 4/2019 top - 1.5 yards
• white rayon challis - stash

Today, I also worked on some baby gifts but those are all from the remnant bin so I won't count them in the out totals.

wip

Favorite: This was an excellent month. Everything I added is pure perfection (to me)!

Accomplishments: I hacked that McCall's dress into exactly what I wanted! Woot! And I turned that Burda magazine jacket into my perfect vision!

FAILS: None! woohoo! If I had to list something I'd say it was using the distressed knit as the pocket bag on the jumpsuit. It basically renders the pockets useless because my fingers get caught in the darn fabric!

My plans last month:
M7925 dress in a cotton/rayon voile
M6754 dress in a floral knit
S2246 dress (maybe) in a striped knit
Burda 10/2017 or S8843 (I need to look at the shape of the pattern pieces of both) in a black cotton twill as my Q1 outerwear project (slightly behind!)
M8028 jumpsuit in a distressed knit
B5526 shirt in white cotton shirting w/silk organza accents

So close!!! I sewed 4 out of the 6 plus a couple more!

For May, I plan to participate in Me Made May as I have! I pledge to wear something handmade every day.

If you don't follow SoZo or if it's your first time, Me Made May isn't a photo challenge - it's okay if you don't post pics on social media or if you do post, if you only post occasionally! I've also seen lots of people say they don't participate because they "don't have enough" handmade stuff. No! If you want to participate and you have ONE handmade thing, you have enough stuff!! :-D

For May, my sewing plans aren't at all focused! It's usually cooler "spring-like" temps throughout May and June with some warm spikes. Without knowing when we'll be outside again, I'm on the fence about spring vs. summer. I mean, there isn't a TON of difference for me but there are prints and patterns that are decidedly summer. We'll see.

Right now, I *want* a few things:

I saw a navy tee at LOFT that is very similar to the 'hacked' McCall's dress except it's floaty. I will make it a bit fitted.

Also at LOFT was a striped v-neck that is *very* similar to the top I made from Ottobre 2/2018 (except with short/cap sleeves) so I'll be making that.

I plan to make S8389 pants in the amazing black crepe I picked up from Mood.

And I happen to have 2 black & white fabrics that are slated for dresses - a heavy crepe for Burda 2/2017 #114 and a rayon challis for 5/2020 #107.

I like fit and flare! The first pattern has a fabric-hog of a skirt and I don't have enough fabric for that and will do a gathered skirt.

I'm waiting on a PDF Plotting order so I can sew up the Style Arc Clare pant in a navy and white drapey polyester suiting from Fabric Mart.

And I still want M7925 in the cotton/rayon blend voile from Ginny's!

That's about it for now (hahaha!) :-p

Lastly, what is up with the BMV site and lack of sales!? I want some new Buttericks but not for $16...And I won't even begin to comment on that Vogue release. Not. For. Me.

Oldies but Goodies! Simplicity 2246 and McCall's 6754

Way back in 2015 I got the idea to sew a knit shirtdress. It was my birthday dress that year and I wore it until it was sad and faded :) 

For the new version, I fell for the fabric even though I'd sworn off double brushed poly. So while I did not enjoy sewing this, I really, REALLY love the dress!!!

It wasn't until I looked at the pics that I realized my bottom button was undone. LOL!!!

The pattern is intended for wovens and I've only used it for knits. I sewed a size 14 and added 1" to the back at the hip and a 1/2" bicep adjustment. I also did a 1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment. The adjustments to the paper patterns are detailed in the blog post linked above. 

Like the former version, I interfaced both collar and facing (it has an all in one collarstand and collar) and both the front band and facing. I used a very lightweight tricot and this helps stabilize tricky areas and the buttonholes/buttons. The buttons are run of the mill JA buttons that I had in stash in a light blue. 

I am not normally on board with fabric belts but I love the stripe! It also looks good with my standard leather belts. Lastly, I decided to add elastic to the sleeves. I serged and turned up 1", hemmed at 7/8" and used 3/4" elastic. After I'd closed everything up and tried the dress on, I realized I used 2 different types of elastic. DOH! LOL! One is rigid and one is very soft/pliable. Do you think I undid it? NOPE! It's fine!

I'm not a huge fan of dusters but I think this works well as one! So, you never know, I just may be a convert! :)

M6754 was purchased the year I started sewing. I made the peplum top and apparently discarded the remainder of the pattern piece that turns the peplum into a dress. Oy!

I knew I could just extend the seams on the peplum to the appropriate length, but I soon decided on a straight skirt and modified NL6530 to fit the McCall's bodice. 

When Fabric Epiphanies posted a "hack" on her blog for a raglan top with gathered sleeves, I had to have one. I do like the popular pattern but just will not pay Indie prices for a pattern that has the same front and back and sleeves cut on the fold. IMO that's lazy drafting and *I* am nowhere near the same at the back of my body vs. the front. SO! Once I realized I had a raglan in stash that I liked (many Burda raglans available but most of the patterns for knits are looser/boxier), I was off!

I used a 14 bodice with the waist graded to match the skirt pattern. I traced a copy of the sleeve, measured it from front to back at the points and divided it equally. I slashed and spread adding about 6" total iirc. I doubled the SA to add a casing at the top and made no changes at the hem. I used 1/2" elastic in the sleeves.

I stitched up the bodice, attached the neckbinding, and stitched up the sleeves. Then, I hemmed the sleeve at the neckline. inserted the elastic (extending the elastic about 1/4" into the seam allowance) and sewed the sleeve to the dress. I also did a tiny zigzag over the elastic. 

I LOVE IT! I may make a top too because I think it's so cute! I love the amount of gathers - not too much, not too little. I will add a hem allowance for the casing to the sleeve hem as it hits at my forearm which allows for less gathering. 

Total win on both dresses! <3 Fabric is from Fabric Mart for both. 

And no post with outside pics is complete without a "what they doing over there?" pic!