Saturday, August 24, 2019

Simplicity 1430 top and Burda 6769 denim skirt (love!)

EVERY DAY, as the sun starts to set, I think, OH MY GOSH! I COULD HAVE TAKEN BLOG PICS TODAY!

Oy. This skirt is totally like 2 months old and is already beloved.


I made this for the first time in 2016. I ended up distressing the skirt - which I like! - but that made it a "for play" garment only.

Ever since, I've been in neeeed of a denim skirt. My work environment is casual (though I tend towards a more business casual/professional) style) so a denim skirt totally works for work. And then, one day, I came across this vintage pattern on Google:


Oh. My. Word.

Well I DEFINITELY need a midi length denim skirt!!!! :) I eventually settled on this pattern because, why not? I like the fit, I've sewn it before, it just needs some minor tweaking.

-I cut a size 16 front and 18 back, same as before. This just works well when making skirts for my body type.

-On the first version, I used the pockets from my Style Arc Sandra jeans. I couldn't find the pattern piece (sigh) and used the pocket from the Birkin Flares, shaped to match the inspiration skirt.

-I also used the Birkin coin pocket because I don't like the plain square that comes with the pattern.


-I slashed and spread the pattern 6 inches to get the length I wanted. I put on the old skirt and measured from the hemline to wear I wanted the finished skirt to hit.

- I had such a hard time sewing the vent on this pattern the first time around and did some modification that I can't explain to you, I just made it work.

-I added a walking slit in front by removing 3/4" from the CF seam tapering to zero.

-I ADDED RIVETS! WOOHOOOOOOOO!
I used Taylor Tailor's tutorial. He suggested having a piece of metal (steel specifically perhaps, I don't recall) and I found the PERFECT item. This shelf divider was in an old file cabinet at work and I came across a stack of them when we were putting things back together after a remodel. Paired with my concrete fireplace hearth, putting my rivets in were a BREEZE! I did need scraps as a spacer, and tested 1 rivet out before starting. I just cut some squares, inserted the rivet through all thickness, and then cut around the rivet afterward.


-I topstitched and topstitched some more and some more after that :-p Funny story...my Singer Quantum Stylist 7258, that was like, $180, makes bartacks WAY better than my 9985 that was like, $500! Eesh.

-I have no idea where the denim came from. I have so many random cuts! The rivets and tack button are from Taylor Tailor. 




I'd like to wear this skirt everyday, IJS.



Simplicity 1430 - I've made the shorts from this pattern a couple times (and have an unblogged pair to share!) and I have noticed the top before now...just didn't pay enough attention to it!

It's such a great, simple pattern!

I was looking for a sleeveless top that could be worn solo. I love my Ogden camis and while I'll wear them solo "for play", I would not wear them to work without a cardi or jacket over them. I looked at A LOT of tops and kept coming back to this one.

I could make 10 of these.

I think there are lots of options with the front neckline too to differentiate. Some have left it open (ending the facing with the front of the top), some have left it open and added ties (definitely doing this!). I could see adding a ruffle down the front, eliminating the cutout altogether and having fun with the seaming (e.g. using stripes horizontally and vertically, color-blocking, etc).

front cut-out, neck binding and french binding on the armholes

Whenever I purge clothes, RTW or handmade, I make sure to 'steal' any notions I can from those in the trash pile! :) This button is from something RTW that I purged who knows when!

I really like the fit and will be focused on getting this one to TNT status!! I sewed a size 14 with 3/4" FBA, 5/8" swayback adjustment, and 3/4" added to the back hip via a slash and spread.

side slits 

The fabric is a rayon challis from Cali Fabrics. I used my Best Press to tame it and the pattern (wisely) advises you to blockfuse a piece of fabric before cutting the facings. I used a very lightweight interfacing that I scored for $1/yard from Fabric Mart that IMO is *very* similar to Fashion Sewing Supply's ProSheer Elegance Couture. Such a great deal!!

I've worn this top a few times since finishing it and it wears and washes up well. I love the color scheme. It's very colorful yet muted and that makes it so versatile for me!

I really want to blog both of my projects from the 04/2019 Burda next. My skirt is a little too tight since I finished it. I blame it on Summer Shandy and tacos! :-p We will see...but totally have to photograph the dress because I wear it ALL the time because it is AWESOME and FANTASTIC and I think YOU should sew it TOO! :-D













Friday, August 9, 2019

Calling Uncle on M7726

This pattern is at least a year and half old and I was initially pretty "meh" on it. And every so often, I'd see a pair that I liked. I mostly thought that 1) they were WAY too high-waist for me 2) the back pleats didn't seem to work too well and 3) I hate that extra long front zipper.

I finally added it to my stash this spring and still, went months waffling on it. Then I added it to my summer plans and spent weeks waffling. Then I finally decided to cut them out and right up until the point where I was about to cut them out, I considered bailing.

First, the envelope includes all sizes. I went through the gazillion sheets twice and I had 2 of the same sheet. This pattern sheet had the front pants piece for sizes 16-22 and the pocket piece for sizes 6-14.  So I was missing the front pants piece for sizes 6-14 and pocket piece for 16-22. I was relieved because I felt managing with the smaller pocket piece was doable.

I wish I'd been missing the pants piece because I would have SURELY jumped ship. But nope, I carried on. Sigh.

The pattern pieces were ENORMOUS. I considered the fact that my twill would be too rigid for the style but, I carried on. Sigh.

A 9" zipper was required. Eesh. I carried on. Sigh.

The instructions are HORRIBLE. Now, y'all know me and know that I sew near any and everything and rarely struggle with any sort of construction. It's actually a straightforward design - not complicated - but the instructions are HORRIBLE. I couldn't believe how unclear they made things. Bleh.

Once I got them assembled, I basted the pleats (they are sewn through full thickness of front and facings) and basted the side seams.

CLOWN PANTS!

Listening to foolishness re: the sad state of America...

Yuck. I hate them. I ended up taking the side seams in another 1" (about 1'4" from the pockets, increasing once I got past the pocket). They did feel a lot better on but I was not happy about the fit, about the fact that they came up to my bustline darn near, and I felt they were not the best use of my wonderful printed twill. I kicked myself for not cutting another pair of NL6459 after finishing the crepe pair.

I pulled out a few pair of flat-front, side-zip pant patterns and I believe I can cut M7745 from the cut pants. I have to take them apart (meh) but I don't want to waste the fabric! I picked it up at Cali Fabrics. I check them out periodically and wonder why I don't shop there more frequently. 1) hate the whole yard requirement 2) I always get bad cuts there. This fabric and the jersey I used for my Kommatia tee was cut terribly. I don't think they'll be in my regular rotation of online retailers -- I find poor cutting to be completely unacceptable* -- but I do like this fabric. 

*I stopped shopping with Fabric.com for over 4 years because they'd routinely send me pieced yardage. I would order 3 and would get a 1yd and 2 yd cut or two 1.5 yd cuts. OY!

Now, I know people tend to mean well but, I am not looking for tips or advice on these. I'm totally okay with everything not being for everybody. I knew this pattern wasn't for me which is why they hadn't made it into my stash before now. And I'm not saying "this pattern is bad" - I am saying "this pattern does not work for me".


Onward!

I am so annoyed with Simplicity and their crappy website experience. The latest release they show on the site is Early Fall but Fall catalogues are in stores. I  bought NEW patterns from Hobby Lobby!

8992 and 8989 are from the latest release
My other frustration is with the Pattern Review site. I've said it before but, the sole reason I pay for an annual membership there now is because my patterns are catalogued and starting from scratch (with 800 patterns!) does not sound like a fun idea. However, it is taking longer and longer for them to load the new releases onto the site. Now, Deepika explained before that it isn't in her control. She gets them whenever they send them. But, the summer Butterick release came out early May and it was early July before they were on the site! The Vogue's aren't there yet and it's been 2 weeks.

I'm going to start looking into another pattern cataloguing method. My annual membership just renewed in May so I have time to figure out a new system and slowwwwwlllllly :-) migrate my patterns over.


Sunday, August 4, 2019

Vogue 1501 and Kommatia Patterns Relaxed Tee

Vogue 1501 is a Rachel Comey design that was pretty popular when it was first released. The dress version is super cool (though I can do without the shoulder pads!) but the skirt!!

When I made the dress, I tried the skirt on mid-way and was sold. I sewed a skirt from the same fabric is the dress immediately after then made a yellow version. When I decided this crepe from Mood needed to become a full skirt, V1501 was the immediate choice. 

This fabric! Swoon! It's a polyester crepe and with a little steam and a clapper, it takes a press pretty decently. To be a poly fabric, it handled very nicely and the print is beautifully vibrant. I would definitely recommend it!

Same as previous versions, I cut a size 18 and skipped the french seaming on the pockets. Be sure to take the time to baste the pleats!! 


And then, I got a bit ahead of myself. I cut the backs out and went right ahead and insert the zipper. Once it was time to add the waistband I had a ruh-roh! moment. 

I improvised and added an extension and a button. It isn't perfect but it works!


Aside from that, everything is finished nicely :-D



Skirt is pictured with the Kommatia patterns relaxed tee. I scored 7 patterns from the Makerist during a $2 sale. Then I had them all printed as copyshop patterns. I measured the tee before I even looked at the size chart and decided on a size medium - the chart confirms.

Then I sewed up a muslin 
The top was riding up on the hips so I sliced the side seams, as seen. On the paper pattern, I did a slash and spread on the front pattern piece and added 1/2"; on the back, 3/4". This is an extra 2.5" in the hip! Oy!  But again, as you can see, if I had gone up a size, that would have resulted in a poor fit everywhere else. 

Fabric is a sandwashed poly/Modal jersey from Cali Fabrics. I almost blew up my fast when I got this fabric and washed it up! Very nice for knit basics!

It does still have a little too much back length even though I did a cheater swayback adjustment and I could use an FBA. But also, it's a tee. I don't get too worked up at times on those types of fit issues on tees/other simple garments.
Things I like - it has a nice silhouette (I forgot to take a pic untucked, but the muslin shows it) and the rolled cuff sleeves are cute (wrong side of fabric will show).

Things I do not like - The excess fabric in the back sleeve. I'm not quite sure what to do to correct it. Also, the neck binding. It's overly complicated. However, Barbara Emodi who blogs at Sewing on the Edge *just* did a tutorial for crossover neckband and it makes SO much sense! I wish I'd seen this first but will definitely do it this way next time. Also, the neckband in the pattern is 1 to 1 but Barbara mentions needing to stretch the back - yes. Do this. Mine sits away from my neck so I'll shorten it through the center back next time. 


I did small zigzag stitching on the sleeve cuffs vs actual bartacks.

I've applied for a board member position with a local non profit organization and wore this outfit for the interview :-D

Oh, and I know you've seen that new Vogue collection. Did you swoon? Not much for you?

I, somehow both shamelessly and shamefully, added 7 to the stash! :-p