Vacation Sewing; Kwik Sew 4169 (sort of)

I wanted this pattern when it was first released, but I think KS may have still been being sold at the higher price point. And while I liked it a lot, I didn't like it for $6.99. I snagged it up from one of the many BMV sales and the surplice front + racer back + maxi length had me swooning over it for my upcoming trip.

I'd purchased this cut of tropical print ITY from Fabric Mart towards the end of the summer season. But then switched to fall sewing shortly after it came. Once I got the pattern I knew this pattern plus this fabric would happen.

Except I never checked the fabric recommendations on the pattern. Oops. The maxi length takes 4 yards because the skirt is cut on the bias. Now, there have been times where I've taken a knit bias cut skirt pattern and just used the straight grain, but this pattern has a lot of flare/swing to it in the hem and I really didn't want to mess that up. It really didn't matter though. Once I pulled out the fabric - OY! I had only gotten 2 yards of it! Sheesh. I'd already been contemplating a gathered skirt so this sealed the deal.

A word on gathered skirts - I LIKE THEM! But only when it's a fabric that is light enough / has enough drape that the gathers lie nice and pretty and don't poof. And, not criticizing anyone else, but I just don't have that type of relationship with my body that I feel I always need to cover/camouflage/'fix' things. I have a little belly - so? A gathered skirt is not going to change the fact that I am barely 5'5" and weigh 185 ish pounds! So I wear what I like despite "rules" and if it isn't the most "flattering" (I've come to hate that word). Anyway...onward!! :-p

I mean, does this NOT say, "I'm on vacation!!!"?!

I measured the original skirt length and basically just cut my fabric at the length minus 2 inches. Then, I cut the fabric in half on the fold line. Giving me two panels about 30" wide and 41" long. I serged the sides and ran a basting stitch on each panel, gathered it and then attached it to the bodice. There is 1/4" elastic in the waist and I wish I had used some clear elastic at the shoulders. It's pretty heavy and the skirt does pull the bodice down a bit even with the elastic.

You'll have to take my word that I'll wear a convertible bra :-p 

I wasn't about to change bras to take these pics! LOL!!!!

OMG THE NARROW HEMMING!!! Wahhhhhhh! I hate every moment of hemming that neckline and armholes. Every. Stinking. Moment. It took more time to do just that piece than to cut out and sew the rest of the dress!!!

so much work. so much steam. so many pins.

I serged the bottom and turned up a 5/8" hem.

This is my "press your knits!!" PSA:

The top is after I turned the belt, the bottom is after it's been pressed (with a press cloth). Ahhhh.

Kwik Sew tops/bodices seem to be built for a very, very broad woman. I recall needing to take out oodles of fabric when I made that jacket and it was still way too big. I cut a Medium!! I ended up taking it in under the arm 5/8" on each side. That's a total of 2.5 inches removed. In.sane.  The only other adjustment I made was a 5/8" swayback adjustment. It was perfect.

At any rate, I LOVE THIS DRESS! It's so pretty and vacation-y and girly and flowy and fun!!

Because what's a blog post without silly pics!?

I *love* these sandals! (They're about 2 years old now)

I plan to either travel in it heading to Orlando or coming home - knit dresses = maximum comfort for me!! Or maybe out to dinner one night.

I could see making this again at some point in a stripe to take advantage of those bias-cut skirt seams. I recall making McCall's 7121 and for whatever reason that dress was just awful on me. I'm guessing the surplice front is what makes this one a win.

Up Next - my knock off of a gingham J.Crew dress - both because it is gorgeous and screams summer-- and because of the Bargainsta Fashionista contest on PR.

Sometimes "Done" Has to Do

I've worn the items from my "blue wardrobe" several times over and when I got good lighting on my B6244 coat I went for these photos. But I wore flats with the coat and had on heels and I was unstable and sinking into the ground and everything looks all bad and wrinkly but...whatev.

I have to note the jacket and pants at least as I intend to make them again at some point and don't want to lose my notes JUST because I didn't have 'good enough' photos.

Totally going to try Gail's sleeve fix on this one before making it again

Kwik Sew 3558 jacket
Size: medium
1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment plus 1/2" removed during sewing
(Seriously!!!! The shoulders on this thing are RIDICULOUS!)

The instructors for the collar are weird but it really works beautifully! I like the overall style and will make it again.

Notes for next time:
Narrow shoulder on pattern
Remove excess fabric from upper chest and mid-back
Add 1" to waist
Add 1" to sleeves (the sleeves came right to my wrist unhemmed so I hemmed them to bracelet length)
I did not do the topstitching as it wouldn't have shown up in this fabric.

In-House Ellen pants
Cut and muslined a size 14 using a poly/wool blend suiting. They were FAR too small. Sewed them up in this poly/cotton suiting and ended up needing to take them in through the waist. Why I don't always muslin...Actually, my notes say "added width everywhere, didn't need it in final pair. Muslins suck." Hahahaha!

Removed 3/4" from front rise and added 1.25" to back rise
Shortened to ankle length
Removed some width from back leg
I did not use the instructions for this pattern so cannot comment on those. They are fly-front pants. I've made what? 2 dozen or more fly-front pants?? I did my thing.
I did NOT like the waistband. There's a left and a right. I would rather have a one piece back with 2-piece front or more preferably, a 4-piece waistband (hail S2700!) There is a side seam indicator on the waistband pieces. I will turn this into a 4 piece waistband.

I'm not sure where all the back leg wrinkles came from. I did NOT notice those when I first finished these (over a month ago) and wore them. Maybe it's my posture from sinking into the dirt? All my photos from the side I look like I'm tipping forward (iPhone corrects it when you crop the photo!)

I like them and have a plaid pair partially cut out!

 

Butterick 5678 shirt

I've made this shirt how many times now? This one is my favorite! The fabric is from the "men's" section at SR Harris and is a really nice fine but sturdy cotton with just the slightest hint of stretch.

I sewed a size 14C
Added 1/2" to the back pattern piece via slash and spread to cover my butt.

I did make a mistake and sew my continuous laps backwards AFTER checking my prior version (where it's also wrong) :) I want to try the Cashmerette Harrison shirt because even though I love this one it would be better if a) it were shorter (I tried shortening it once but those pieces are so curved I got confused and gave up) b) it had a yoke c) it had a tower placket.

But they're so neat!

Sure it's all wrinkly but whatev...Like I said, these items have all been worn multiple times now! :)

 

I guess sinking into the dirt makes you make crazy face?

And can we talk about progress? The first time I attempted this shirt was in 2013 and didn't understand WHAT the heck was to happen with the collar and collar stand and front band

2013 vs now:

Also, Wonder Tape is my solution for collar stands!!

After sewing the collar stand/collar assembly I attach the stand to the neckline and from the wrong side I press the stand in place (vs. pressing that end up before stitching), hold in place with WT and topstitch from the right side.

I still have, finished but unblogged, a version of S2369 which honestly doesn't need a review. McCall's 7392, Burda 6798, New Look 6230 (probably also doesn't need blogging), Vogue 1465...WHEW!