Clare Coat Muslin...and Moving On...

I was VERY excited to sew my black and gold Clare coat.  I bought the pattern very soon after it was released and splurged on black wool coating.  

And then a long time passed without seeing any reviews. I don't mean tester versions...I mean reviews!! And THEN I sewed the Nettie. Twice. And that's when I started looking for an alternative pattern. The shoulders/armhole/sleeve fit on the Nettie was really bad on me. After version 2, I scrapped the pattern. 

But I really like this style so I decided I'd go forward. And here we are, approaching the very end of February, and this was my February outerwear project, and I hadn't done anything. I went back and looked at every version I found. I saw LOTS of sleeves that gave me pause. I read LOTS of comments about uncomfortable or tight sleeves that people felt that needed to size up or sew smaller seam allowances to fit. 

I knew deep down inside that this pattern wasn't going to be it.  I was hopeful though! I suspected it was not at all a size issue but a drafting issue. I buckled down and got the necessary pattern pieces cut out for muslining. I went to try it on and suspicions confirmed. 

I don't have photos on me because I *literally* could not lift my arm in any meaningful way to take a pic. 

I posted on IG and several people chimed in that it looks like it may need to be redrafted. Here is the complete armhole shape:

I am not a professional pattern drafter and don't even make attempts to draft my own patterns -- 

But man that is one weird set-up. 

And because I don't have that skillset, I wasn't about to try to redraft the front, side panel, back, front sleeve and back sleeve. That is the kind of thing that makes a pattern get the boot for me. I don't pay $18 for a pattern and expect to redraft it.

I immediately remembered my raglan-sleeved S2508 coat and of course, I sewed the Sewaholic Minoru which also has a raglan sleeve. In comparison, here are those garments:

But, I had already gone on the hunt for an alternative when I put this coat in queue for February.  I found and ordered a copy of the 9/2011 Burda magazine for this pattern:

ignore those sleeves...they used faux fur on the sample...so crazy.

There's also a version of it sewn as a duffle with a hood and it is ADORABLE. When I went back to plan out mods to #114...I stumbled on #103:

I really like the magazine version of this pattern! It just isn't what I want for *this* coat. So I thought I could draft the funnel collar onto this coat, leave off the flaps on front and possibly the sleeve tabs and of course sub a zipper for the snaps and welts for the patch pockets. Not much work actually.

This A-line shape more mimics what I liked about the Clare and the back vent is a bonus! 

Another thing...in making the muslin I realized I didn't actually like that the zipper was attached to the front raglan. I like the look of that side zipper but not the functionality of it. This style still works and this coat should also look just as good partially zipped or open as it does closed. 

So I was torn...overall style or possible slight improvement in fit with the set-in sleeve? Decisions, Decisions...

I posted a poll in my IG stories (that was fun!) #114 with the funnel drafted onto the neckline or #103 with the body flared a bit to be an A-line.

When I posted I was CERTAIN I was going to make #114. And it won the poll too! 71% for 114 and 29% for 103. But there's a vibe I'm getting from the raglan - very mod, 60s like - that I am digging!

I really LOVE the look of the Clare! I wish it had worked out for me!! But life is too short and sewing time too precious for me to exert that much energy. I'll just never be the person to work and rework and rework the actual technical aspects of a pattern. THAT'S WHY I BUY PROFESSIONALLY DRAFTED PATTERNS! I'm a sewer, not a pattern designer/drafter thankyouverymuch.

I don't know that I'll get the Burda done before February is out...stranger things HAVE happened :) But I'm going to get started on it tomorrow!

Mega Fail + Quasi Fail

Worse news first.

This top from Burda 7/2013 was on my want list for a long time.

I didn't have a stash fabric in mind and decided to use the blush silk georgette (?? I think it's georgette based on it's hand..."dry", matte, nice drape, semi-sheer until it was doubled) that I'd gotten from SR Harris when I was going to make the wedding guest dress. I was so excited. I practiced my french seams and everything!

I was sewing the lining to the the exterior and it was kind of wonky. In that moment I realized my error.

I have this issue of Burda but I had also purchased this pattern as a download way before getting the magazine. I decided for this simple silhouette, assembling the pdf would be faster. Well having that "paper pattern" messed me all up. I forgot to add seam allowances! I didn't add them ANYWHERE and had done french seams in front, back and sides. I knew there was no way it would fit and decided to finish it anyway. Well, the lack of seam allowances really throws the neckline completely off and it isn't salvageable.

So. So. Sad.

RIP almost pretty blush silk blouse

Quasi fail...I really loved the feel of this ponte when it came. It washed up nicely and the color was just right. I cut out the Nettie, widening the shoulder 1/2". 

I went to try it on and it was INSANELY long. Like several inches. But I really liked the scoop neck so I tried to make it work.

I pinched out the excess and measured. I also did a swayback adjustment at this time. I removed 1" from CB alone and then 2.5" after that from front and back.

And I was okay with this because I took it quite low and the seam would always be concealed by my bottoms. But then I tried it on a couple times...this fabric has terrible recovery.

Wah. Wah. Wah.

We'll see if it hangs around.

eta: The Nettie isn't the bodysuit for me. :(

I have some good news!! I have this cute RTW top that I must've put on a bad hanger and the lacework got a hole in it

It was right at the shoulder and was very noticeable. I was going to consider this a loss but luckily, I came back to it! I got out my embroidery floss and did a patch job on it! Yay!!

From now on, this one will hang on one of the Joy huggable hangers! :-D

Closet Case Nettie + Vogue 1501 Skirt

You didn't happen to remember that in my last post I said come back Monday for the Nettie review, did you?? :)  It has rained for like 5 days straight here! Cloudy and overcast and gloomy so I couldn't get photos...and these are just okay.

Pattern Description:

The Nettie is a quick and easy to make wardrobe staple. Close fitting with high cut arms, she can be made into a knit dress OR a bodysuit. This pattern is infinitely customizable with a choice of 3 sleeve lengths, 2 neckline and 3 back variations.

Go modest with a bateau neckline or show off some skin with a scoop neck and low back version. The bodysuit variation has a low cut bum to prevent annoying panty lines, along with an optional snap crotch so you don’t have to get naked to use the ladies’ room. The leg and neck openings are finished with the same stretch fabric you’ll use to make the bodice, so this is a budget conscious project – you don’t need any extra notions unless you’re adding crotch snaps or a shelf bra.

Pattern Sizing:
2-18; 32" to 44" bust / 25" to 37" waist / 34" to 46" hip. I used a 14 front neckline and 16 for the rest.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Well there are tons of options as mentioned in the description. I went with a high neck (I swear I thought I traced off the scoop) and high back.

The cut will eliminate any panty lines but mehhhhhh I don't like it. 

It shouldn't matter because it'll always be under other clothing.

I really liked the color and texture of the fabric and wanted the back work appropriate.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. However, I'm not one that needs hand-holding and I find that a lot of Indie pattern instructions annoy me. Sorry but true! I'm just not a fan of the conversational tone and paragraphs upon paragraphs of info.

Now, it's better than Style Arc for example, who might have 3 sentences!

The pictorials and such are good.

I DID NOT LIKE THE TILE LAYOUT. Blerrrrrrgh. The layout shows a 5x5 grid with the short length horizontal. But the pages print in an order that you lay them out vertically. I've never had to stop and think about how to tile a PDF. I've never had to take a break from a 25 page PDF. So that was a bit annoying.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
It's a bodysuit! What's not to love!? Personally, I was ecstatic to see bodysuits make a comeback. I'd love a woven button front with knit bodysuit bottom. No untucked shirts!? Though I rarely tuck my shirts...but still!

I don't like the cut on the leg. I knew I wouldn't like it generally but I really don't like it on me. I want to try the new McCalls pattern to see if I prefer a brief cut. I'm not a huge fan of the finish on the crotch. IDK if or how the ends can be finished better, I just felt like it was fiddly. I used a polka-dot shirting to finish mine off :)

I basted in place by hand before sewing

Fabric Used:
Jacquard jersey knit with 4 way stretch from FM. It stretches about the same amount in both directions. I don't have a percent stretch...it stretches enough!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made my binding wider. A little too wide...The pattern has 1.5" strips and I went up to 2 1/8". Would do 1 7/8" next time. The binding will finish at 3/8" with the pattern measurement (which would actually be a tiny bit less with turn of cloth). I find this ok for the legs but too puny for a neckline.

You can also see the texture nicely in this photo!

When I looked up the chart for the binding I was all...okay, cool. Then there was a note that the leg bindings are 85% and neckline 90%. Normally, I ignore binding lengths and measure my neckline / make a judgment on the amount of stretch in my fabric. I have never(!), ever cut a binding at 90% of the opening. So YMMV on that.

After constructing, I ended up removing 1/2" from the legs tapering to nothing at the crotch flap (hahahaha).

I would definitely set snaps or buy some snap tape for future makes. I didn't enjoy sewing on 3 sets of snaps. I will make a hefty bicep adjustment. I considered a pivot/slide for more bust room but I like it snug and I think the scoop would look better and take some of the focus off of the bust. Full bust + high necklines = meh most of the time.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would! I really like the concept and there are so many ways to personalize it.  I tried this on with a ton of things in my closet...they don't necessarily match the teal, but the idea of bodysuit + skirt or pants (wide legs!) etc made me happy. I'd love to find a nice cotton/lycra and make one in black and one in white with mid-scoop back and short sleeves. Would be awesome for summer.

The pattern is drafted for a height of 5'6". I'm 5'5" but I have a short torso. I find it to be a little long BUT IMO that means I can make it with a fabric that may not have as much vertical stretch. I can fold out a little (like 5/8") for stretchier fabrics.  

And this goes together FAST! Yes, that is a relative term and I know I'm a speed-demon (I'm like that in every facet of my life...much to my mother's chagrin)...but using a serger it's zip, zip, zip! I only used my machine to topstitch the sleeve hems and attach the fabric for the snap area.

Question:
I know I need to do a full bicep adjustment, do you think the shoulder is just too narrow (a problem I NEVER have) or that the bicep is too snug causing it to pull? I found myself pulling it "out" at the shoulders while wearing.

And, as promised, Vogue 1501 as a skirt! Nothing to add here...it's exactly the same as the dress, fabric and all :)

If you look at the photo directly above you'll see I'm pretty straight through the hips. I appreciate the "bump" at the hips from the volume in this skirt! I think you'd be hard pressed to find a black woman complaining about something making their hips or butt look bigger! :-p Bring it on! lol!!!

I did have a mishap wherein I serged a hole in my skirt back finishing the side seams. WAH. I whined about it, noted there was a tiny hole on the seam line in front (interfaced the area, fraychecked, and sewed just outside of it when I redid it), unpicked it, cut a new skirt back, sewed the darts, reattached it (I didn't undo the pocket and was just very careful about attaching the new skirt back to the pocket) all in 30 minutes!

Oh wait! There is a difference...My labels! <3

I sewed it to the facing before the facing was attached, stitching down the short sides.

<3

I ~LOVE~ this outfit!! So even though spring refuses to show up and STAY here, I'm going to keep cranking out pretty things that scream spring!