Sewing Outerwear! Burda 8/2017 Jacket

This post is kind of epic...lots of photos!

Blahhhhh. Not the coat. Me. As mentioned in my prior post, I decided on a slow sewing project for a couple of reasons. And I know that 15 days for a piece of outerwear isn't technically a long time...it felt like forever! LOL! But also felt very low-pressure, which was needed.

I purchased this fabric - wool melton - from Fabric Mart last November in the buy the piece section. I spent $21 for 2.25 yards. When I went to NYC, I saw these buttons at  M&J Trimming and decided they were IT! I spent $3.98 per button and bought 7 (1 extra to have on hand) so they cost more than the main fabric! I got my lining from Metro Textiles.

I traced this pattern in a size 42 and did a 1" FBA and ended up lowering the dior dart too much. Sometimes I notice it and it annoys me...sometimes I don't. I'm sure in the long run I won't care. On Burda tops, I normally trace a size 40 shoulder but stayed with the 42 here because, outerwear. I think it fits fine.

The sleeve measured *ok* but then, I have to always consider the intended design ease - I want to keep with the spirit of the pattern. And since I normally need to add to the bicep I decided to muslin the sleeve to decide on the adjustment.

It was okay -- not tight but I didn't want to struggle when wearing a long sleeves or a sweater underneath. I added 1" which ended up being too much. I took 1/2" out (total) from the back seam. You'll also notice that my sleeve dart is super pointy on the muslin. I ended up having to baste the dart until I got it smooth and then I stitched it and removed the basting stitches.

LOVE the back fit!!!

I love the collar and know why they had you interface the upper and under...but this melton is THICK. I should have used a lighter interfacing or only interfaced one side. The under-collar uses the same piece when really, it should be slightly smaller.

Speaking of the collar...the instructions have you attach a collar stand to each collar piece and then sew those together. The stand almost looked like it didn't fit the collar (there's this flat part on the collar) but you just have to mind your markings. On the stand, I marked in the seam allowance and lined it up with the collar...

And ta-da! Unpicking those stitches was NOT fun though.

I adore the in-seam buttonhole and decided to go with bound buttonholes for the other two. For the windows in the facing, I used the 'interfacing method' where you use interfacing instead of organza and when you turn it to the inside you can fuse it in place. I still stitched around it by machine because I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Makes me happy!!

The shoulder seam on the jacket is forward but I'm not sure why. The facing and lining has the shoulder seam in the normal position. Just a design choice??

The sleeves are new to me...some kind of a raglan / set-in hybrid?? It's 2-piece but you have the dart and it didn't need easing. Weird!

I used a raglan shoulder pad from Wawak

This is the only time I'll ever button that upper button! LOL!!! 

The pockets aren't very usable for me :-/  One, I put them too close to the flaps and two, they sit high up on the body. They can't really be lowered though...if I were making this again for some reason I'd just add welt pockets.

The entire time I was sewing the pocket flaps, I knew that the double layer of melton was too much. After getting them done, I knew there was no way they would attach neatly. So I redid the flaps with lining on the interior. I skipped the topstitching in most places on this jacket. I hand stitched the pockets to the jacket.

Kudos to Burda for their wonderful back lining piece. No finagling to ensure you have ease in back!

When I was ready to do the lining, I pinned the vertical seams of the lining and jacket together and my coat was a bit bigger than my lining. Wahhh! I can only assume that I stretched the wool out a bit during sewing/trying on. I was able to shrink it back with steam for the most part but the front of the lining just was NOT meeting the facing at the bottom. And I had already pinked my lining seams so couldn't let them out. I left it for a couple days and said, screw it. I likely won't ever even notice it.

I cut gussets and finished the area. Shrug.

Then I had it repinned, had sewed the sleeve lining to the sleeves already and was ready to sew the hem. OMG...I forgot the shoulder pads! So I had to go in there and insert them. I sat down to tack the pads in and saw this:

SERIOUSLY?!!?

I unpicked the area, resewed it and FINALLY hemmed it. I placed my inseam button and then placed the others by measuring. It was very important that they line up. When I went to button it I realized I didn't leave enough slack on the functioning buttons so I'll need to re-sew them. Wahhhh! :)

But I finished it and I love it!

I've wanted to take photos at this wall since forever. It's the side of the building of the Ace Hardware. They also had a fall display out and a sign welcoming people to take photos!

This coat has been on my to-do list for awhile and I am SO glad I finally got to it! If you're interested in this one, it's the featured pattern and has full instructions and pics.

I have the Style Arc Mindi pattern cut out so that's up next.

Mid Year Check-in and Summer Sewing Plans

and June wrap-up...except there's not much to wrap up!

This month I sewed a colorblocked version of NL6301 (approximately 2.5 yards used) and it was a quasi-fail. Drats.
I bought NO fabric!
I bought NO patterns!

Mid Year Check!

• I've sewn 83 yards this year.
• I've made 43 items including gifted garments, excluding quilts (2). That sounds like a lot, I know. Accounting for the gifts, donated garments, fails and a UFO, that's down to 30. I had 10 items that were sleepwear or loungewear, down to 20. Those 20 garments are then split about 70/30 between workwear and casual/weekend wear. So an average of 2.5 workwear items per month and 1 casual item...not too crazy :) I don't think? :-p
• I made 4 gifts; 3 tops for my daughter and 1 for my mom.

one of the garments made for my daughter; Burda 1/2018 hoodie

• I've donated 3 (well 2 and NL6301 will be donated): M6886 and Burda 2/2018 top

I just did not like the color of the M6886 dress on me. Felt too bland/blah

The twisty Burda was SO cute. But that ITY was one that felt too "plastic-y"...a pretty print but it didn't feel good on. I definitely plan to sew it again in nicer fabric (ahem, wool jersey to the rescue??).
 
• I've had 2 major fails: M7724 and B6551:

I threw this pattern away

• I have 3 so-so garments, 2 that likely won't survive the next purge:
• S8601-love the pattern, hate the fabric (poplin shirting, bleh). Will remake with a lower/more open neckline
• Otto 2/2018 top-again, great pattern but the cotton knit that I used for the top required more room. My boobs are smashed in it and that makes me sad.
• Otto 2/2015 tee-pattern is okay (I'm not completely sold) but that fabric didn't work. It's now a loungewear tee

2018 Goals/Sew-lutions:

• I had a goal of 18 Burda patterns for the year and I've sewn 10 so far. YAY!
• I had a goal of no more than 18 new patterns in stash this year and I've purchased 15. Eeeek! I really want McCall's 7780 and the Burnside bibs so...
• I had a goal to sew 2 nightgowns and 2 sleep shorts. I fell in love with B6031 and made 4 nightgowns! I wear those and 2 RTW rompers to sleep most nights. I still want a "summer" one since I bought white lace :)
• I had a goal to sew 3 new outerwear pieces the first 4 months of the year. I have none outerwear (grammatical error intended).

• The replacement Burda for the CCF Clare is probably a wadder :( I don't like Raglan sleeves. I should have gone with the other coat with set in sleeves. And, it was a bit too big at the time I was working on it and now I've lost about 12 lbs so I don't even know if it's worth trying to save. This weight loss was not on purpose so it is good/not good. Stress sucks and is life ruining.
• It got too warm for me to sew the navy short Burda coat. The tundra went from 16" of snow on 4/14 to like, 90 degree weather 2 weeks later.
• My uncooperative hand and finding out I had to move paired with hot, hot weather made the trench coat a no-go. I did get it about 80% traced though so I'll be planning that in the early part of August to be ready for fall. Well the 2.7 weeks of cool-ish weather before winter comes.

• I had a goal to sew a 4-piece black workwear wardrobe (3 items were made December 2017). I made V9032, B5760 (both TNTs), Burda 6853 and Burda 11/2007 #113. The neckline on the 11/2007 Burda is weird and I've only worn the jacket (finished in January!) once. I always want to shrug/roll my shoulders, fix it while it's on. I don't wear fussy clothes. The other 3 have gotten a workout in the wardrobe! And that wool suiting was really nice so I think I'll have them awhile.
• I had a goal to complete a loungewear 'wardrobe'. Did that! Love all the pieces I made and wear them OFTEN! My absolute favorite items are the hoodie from the 1/2018 Burda and the joggers from Burda 6659.
• I had a goal to sew a new pair of Birkin flare jeans. I fouled up the zipper when I made mine and I wear them, but only with untucked/longer shirts. I need(!) a new pair. Soon.
• I had a goal to sew a nude-for-me slip. I have a black one and a not-nude-for-me nude one. I still want this. Hopefully for fall.
• I planned to participate in the PR Red Carpet contest in March and did not. And I have not been too into the site lately.

My birthday is coming up (soon!) and I want to sew 2 dresses; one for day and one for night. Day dress is for certain; NL6507. We will see if I get to a party dress or not...but maybe not because my sewing room is NOT setup yet. I'll be using this rayon challis from Fabric Mart.

July is when I start to wind up my summer sewing. I will likely have some stragglers, but I live for fall / early winter (before it's cold, cold) and tend to refocus my sewing once we hit the month of August.  For the rest of summer, I want to sew:

B6330 maxi dress in this double brushed poly from my trip to Fabric Mart.

S8414 dress in this border print cotton lawn from SR Harris if I can make it work...if not it'll be a solid yellow lawn from Fabric.com. Idk where it is right now and it doesn't look like I have a pic of it. This dress has been on my wish list since it was released.

Bodice of M7728 for the Jay/Bey OTRII concert in this Ankara wax print from Michael Levine with a paneled maxi-length skirt. Well, that was the plan! Then I thought to use the lower half of M7788 because it's CUTE!! But I hate the bodice on 7788 and how the heck do you get into it?!?! The line drawing without the wrap shows a front zipper in the pants. So the pants zip up but the bodice is a true wrap?? If that's the case, I don't think I can actually combine these two...unless I move to a side zipper.

The back of 7728 on this view is wrong...the zipper does go through the waistband.

All other views show it correctly.

Burda 4/2014 skirt 'hacked' into a trench-style skirt in this cotton twill from Fabric Mart. This fabric is MUCH darker than I remember so this may move lower on the list.

Style Arc Autumn dress or S8014 from this awesome tencel twill from Treadle Yard Goods that is somewhere in hiding. Just trust me that it is awesome, okay??

1366 (l) or S1377 (r). I will :gasp: muslin both because I can see a top from this fabric getting a major workout in the wardrobe and I want it to be *right*. [I'm thinking I need to start muslin-ing all woven tops until I develop a sloper (borrrrrring). Funnily, fitting my lower half - including pants!! - is much, much, much easier.]

 

1366 is so popular but I'll muslin both. Although looking at the line drawings now, IDK about the band on the 1377. I'll be using this shingle woven fabric from Metro Textiles.

Baste+Gather Birkin Flare jeans in this midwash denim from Fabric Mart.

True Bias Lander pants in this striped denim from Mood. Will most certainly be making a muslin as I've seen so-so reviews on the crotch fit and this fabric was PRICEY.

True Bias Ogden in my beloved Kelly green silk charmeuse from Metro Textiles

I'd like to maybe copy this LOFT tank if I get around to it!

V1586 I have a couple contenders for fabric. I'll likely make it in a b&w print :) and I'll definitely be shortening it.

You may notice that really, aside from the first 3 items, all of these are able to easily transition into fall. I bought an amazing(!) cut of Ralph Lauren cotton twill in the most perfect shade of khaki to make a nice pair of shorts. I may get them cut...or that may be a project for next summer, we'll see how my sewing mojo goes. I expect my sewing to wane a little bit for now, but I'm okay with that.

Today when I got home I did a quick check of the few places I was potentially interested in for photos. Not too bad for 5 p.m. pics! Should be really nice mid-day...will test it out this weekend :)

wearing M6519 top and NL6530 skirt <3

My sewing room is getting closer!! I have to go vertical much moreso than before and need to hang a couple of things (like an IKEA Fintorp rail to get my basket of cutting implements off of my table). I still think I can knock out that New Look dress with the partially put together...yesterday I got home and just wanted to SEW! and couldn't.

How is your year shaping up? Are you on track with sewing plans and goals?

Finished: Burda 1/2018 #121 & Me Made May

I spent an embarrassing amount of time searching for the right skirt pattern for my black & white floral cotton pique I picked up at Metro Textiles. I knew it should be a full skirt, and I have a couple that I've made, but nothing seemed quite right.

And then I saw Allison's version...which I'd seen Dorcas’ version first but didn't register the pattern. I think I thought the skirt was RTW and the wrap top was handmade. Dorcas has made it twice - both fabulous! At any rate, I knew it would be the perfect pattern for my fabric!!



I used my normal Burda sizing for skirts - 42 front and 44 back. I did not add any hem allowances as usual and hemmed at 2 inches. I love the look of midi skirts but rarely like them on my body. I'm more of an 'any length from mini to *just* below the knee' kinda lady.

I used a 9" invisible zipper and made a facing instead of lining it. Once the pleats and darts were sewn, I traced the waistline onto tracing paper and then marked 2 1/4" from that line. I could have made the facing a little deeper.

I finished it with bias tape because why not?! I sewed the facing to the zipper tape by hand and was going to hem by hand but I wasn't sure if I liked it or not and went for the faster (read: FINISHED ALREADY!) route of blind hemming by machine.

I was going to try to "fix" my hem - you can see it dipping forward on the photo above and mine does the same. I decided potentially ruining the hemline wasn't worth it. I also had a bit of a tough time figuring out where on the body the waist is supposed to sit. I guess it's a high-waist skirt?? I think that contributed to me being uncertain about it - that and trying it on with 'night belly'. When I came back a day or two later and tried it on with several tops in the wardrobe, I liked it a lot more.

This skirt is a quick and simple sew. I did get a little messed up with the pockets though. They extend up to the waistline which makes them a bit of a pain to sew IMO! Also, I thought my pockets were gaping but looking at the line drawing now, I guess they're functioning as intended. The only problem is, this pique is pretty 'sticky' and the pockets shift around even though they're caught in the facing/skirt seam. It looks like I should have stitched down further from the waist.

I've also finished my mom's gift (and love it. and want one of my own)...and will review that once she has it in hand. I also have NL6107 to review!! I started tracing the Burda trench (omgomgomgomg so many pieces), really want to sew M7745 and my tees. I need to make a plan! :)

Look at that bias tape finish on the sleeve! *love*

Re: Me Made May...here is what I wore days 8-14.

Day 8: Burda 7107 wrap top, Simplicity 2061 pants, RTW tank
Day 9: True Bias Ogden cami, New Look 6481 jacket, RTW skirt
Day 10: Vogue 9032 pants, RTW shirt
Day 11: McCall's 6964 tee, RTW jeans and jacket
Day 12: Burda 7136 shirt, RTW jeans, Butterick 6244 jacket
Day 13: Burda 1/2016 dress
Day 14: Simplicity 2369 dress and McCall's 6996 cardigan

There was a post on the Sewcialists blog that got me thinking. Every year there's a ton of people who are completely annoyed by MMM and a bunch of people that sort of hem and haw over the "requirements". But there aren't any requirements. I mean, right?! Below is my comment on the blog post. Someone else commented and mentioning getting to where I am. That made me remember that I  am pretty good about being completely unbothered by what anyone else is doing that doesn't affect me. And that confidence/self-assurance/independence can look a different way to people who are unlike me. I will never not be me, be clear! LOL! I'm just offering some background.

I’m glad you are doing what works for you…but also recognize that the pressure you felt was self-imposed. I mean, lots of people do it. I hear this a lot my 5th year in re: MMM…Not having “enough” handmades to participate (if you have two handmade things then your pledge can include those 2 handmade things!!), etc. And the nature of social media itself makes it worse IMO.

So I think it’s totally a personality thing. I don’t choose my outfits because I’ll be sharing them…I wear what I wear because that’s what I want to wear! LOL!!! I have totally worn a garment on subsequent days…I don’t aim for ‘beautiful, staged’ photographs…I don’t sew new things “for” MMM, I don’t worry about wearing what’s “popular” or “trending”…I have to get dressed everyday (well, almost everyday) and then I take a pic and post it.

The best part for me is that I always have some sort of revelation about a garment or outfit combination. This year, as my pledge included wearing “full handmade outfits” twice per week, I’ve learned that that isn’t actually important to me. I realized how EXCITING it is that my handmades and my RTW purchases really meld together. I am very often mixing the two and really, that’s a GOOD thing for me! It means I’m making and buying things that actually work for me, for my body, for my lifestyle.

I also love that I find new-to-me patterns or patterns styled in way that makes me take notice, when I’d previously overlooked it.

Most importantly…there’s room for all of us no matter how we “use” sewing in our lives!!

I hope that anyone who wants to participate does so, without feeling pressured by what others are doing. Be it fully handmade outfits, wearing all the "of the moment" patterns, taking magazine quality pics, whatever you think you need/have/are required to do to participate in Me Made May...just know that there really is no sewing community police. Do you!