Burda 12/2018 & Some Monday Miscellany

I was all prepared to share my trio of Butterick 6621 dresses and then I saw a RTW dress that was simple but had this cute sleeve detail and I had to have it. I looked through my options and B6621 was an excellent choice! So look for the four versions of that one this weekend! :)

 

RTW dress from LOFT

I did get a chance to have my daughter take pics of my forever project, this blouse from Burda 12/2018:

I fell for the sleeve and the velvet ribbon bow. And I had these two (random?) pieces of ivory poly blouseweight in stash. I have no idea where this fabric came from and why I had it in 2 pieces. After getting the seam allowances added and pattern adjustments made, I laid it out and was *just* able to fit the various pieces onto the fabric. Except I somehow did not realize the collar was cut on the fold. After everything was cut out I was confused why I didn't have "more pieces". LOL! Like, but isn't there a facing? Why did it tell me to cut 2? Wouldn't I need to cut 4??

(side note: THIS is part of the reason the cutting layouts are missed...that and what pieces need interfacing!!)

I was able to find a piece of fabric large enough to cut my collar facings. Whew!

 

It's totally fine...Do you see my terrible slip stitching?? I have been dealing with insomnia and one day I woke up at 3:30 a.m. and after fighting to get back to sleep for 90 minutes, I just got up and went downstairs. I watched an episode of Law & Order: SVU and sewed this. Obviously I was so not awake! LOL!!!

The sleeve band stitching was done fully awake and turned out better :)

The sleeve really caught my eye. It was the opposite of fun to sew in this shifty poly. The other thing, I did not notice until late in the process that the markings were for size 36 and I was supposed to end the pleats higher for my size 40. Oops.

 

I ADORE the sleeves!!!!

Btw, I sewed a size 40 with a 1" FBA (slightly too much FBA). I skipped my bicep adjustment and shortened the blouse quite a bit - more on that later.

 

It was pretty tough to get photos of this. Wah.

 

The velvet ribbon is black and I <3 it.

 There is a fabric loop in back to hold it in place.

I had purchased velvet ribbon (from JA??) when I decided to make this but it was SO stiff. After Googling, I learned silk velvet ribbon was a thing! I was going to order some on Etsy and remembered that I (luckily) still have a couple of brick & mortar fabric shops here. Called the next morning and Treadle Yard Goods had rayon velvet ribbon - so much nicer! I hopped in my car and drove 15 miles for 1 3/8 yard of ribbon. Oy! I wanted 1 1/2 and when I got there she said, "Oh after the call I thought, I should have measured it..." eesh.

This top = saga.

The shifty fabric. The stiff ribbon. At one point I was doing the rest of the cutting (bands, collar, etc) and thought, "did that rotary cutter just touch me?" and kept on doing what I was doing. A few minutes later I saw blood on my finger. I cleaned and bandaged it and was all, YAY! It didn't get on my fabric! And the next morning:

I used some diluted hydrogen peroxide to remove it (mostly) and figured the rest would come out in the wash with a little stain treatment. 

When I went to set the sleeves I found a spot of blood on the front of the blouse and a smear of blood on the shoulder. Seriously. 

Setting the sleeves I had to redo parts of one sleeve about 4 times.

The facing kept flipping out -- it's 'grown on' in front with a piece that extends and needs to be sewn onto the collar. I decided to understitch that portion:

Tried it on again and, "why is this side of the collar doing funky things??" I had caught SEVERAL inches of the blouse in the understitching. 

I am SO over this top at this point and SO ready for it to be DONE! I have a mini conniption about sewing the buttonholes because of the drama and that was the one part that went FLAWLESSLY! Go figure!

 

Buttons are off-white shank buttons from stash

Lastly, this thing was ridiculously long! I didn't add hem allowances as I rarely do with Burda. I ended up removing 3 inches and it was another step I was not looking forward to. Lightbulb moment! 

I pressed up the 3", sewed a 1/4" hem and then used my applique scissors to trim away the excess. I then folded it up again and stitched the hem. Worked perfectly.

 I thought I was going to have to put it on timeout after all that but it's soooo cute and I just LOVE it!!

I had to share this pic of Wilson the Cat...so intrigued by the fireplace...

And I ordered a bunch of swatches from Mood for my husband's sportcoat!

 

slate blue cotton twill, midnight blue cotton corduroy, taupe cotton corduroy

brushed cotton twill, charcoal cotton twill, blue-gray cotton corduroy

I *really* want it to be corduroy but the brushed twill is my favorite on-screen! We'll see which he likes best when the swatches come. The taupe cord and charcoal twill are my least favorite and based on the on-screen color, that blue-gray may be too teal-ish for him.  

My 1st choice for a pattern is Bootstrap Fashion "Modern Fit 2-button Jacket". I've not had a ton of success with Lekala but the custom pattern is the obvious first choice. It should be a better starting place than a Big4 pattern. (Burda is cut far too slim for him. My lanky son? I have used several Burda patterns for him.) My other option is Vogue 8890 though I'm not 100% sure he'll fit into the size 46. We'll see!

Grainline Felix

Back in 2014, when I participated in the Fabric Mart Fabricista challenge, we were given the Grainline Scout tee to 'make our own'. I muslined because I knew there was no way I was going to sew this as is.

I finished the challenge and wore the top for a bit...but I tossed the pattern immediately. I've not really considered any Grainline patterns since then (I've owned the Lakeside pjs since they were first released). Mainly, her patterns just don't match my aesthetic; too boxy, too shapeless. very casual in a way that I don't normally dress.

So while I liked the Felix immediately, my hesitation with Indies in general and this company specifically, made me pass. Then I saw the photo of the dress made up in the blue fabric! I decided to gamble because it looked amazing!! I bought a PDF version of the pattern on Pattern Review.

I saw a response from Jen to someone about the bodice finish basically "needing" the lining. You don't NEED the lining. It will produce a beautiful finish but it is not necessary because the bodice is finished with a facing. 

The PDF went together fine and everything matched up as it was supposed to (notches, etc). I am almost always annoyed by Indie patterns' gazillion pages of instructions. I'm not sure why 29 pages is necessary...e.g., 3 steps and a full page on understitching the facing. Gah. But the instructions were fine and they were mostly clear. I even read through the lining steps.

The left neckband is wonky on me. 

I tried fixing it after it was assembled so now my right band is a little sloppy. boooo!

I knew beforehand that I would be eliminating the horizontal seam in back, leaving it unlined and leaving out the pockets. You CAN have the pockets without lining but it requires more work than I think is worth it. If you wanted it unlined but with pockets, then I'd say go for inseam.

I do not like that horizontal back seam. At all. Again, there is a very specific body type that can take a seam going across their backside with fabric eased in...I ain't got it!

I sewed a size 12 based on the measurement chart and finished bust measurement. I decided to do a 3/4" FBA and eliminated the dart that was created. I could have used a *little* more room!  

Because the back skirt of the lining had no additional ease, I used that piece for my skirt. I attached them, overlapping the seam allowance, and did a 1/2" swayback adjustment. I added the seam allowance to CB directly on the fabric. I did NOT consider the fact that the lining piece is shorter, and had to shorten my front pattern piece after the fact. Doh! But it works! I like this length a lot.

the pattern instructs turning up 1/4" then 3/4". 

I did a narrow hem.

I kept the additional waist room from my FBA and based on that additional space, I added 1" on the fold for the front skirt. I then chose a spot (kind of randomly, honestly) and marked it both sides of center. I did a very light gathering between the two marks. I did not like the idea of just easing the skirt in.  

Once the front skirt was attached I basted the side seams. I am pretty straight from the front and needed a little waist definition. I took it in about 3/4" on each side starting from about 2" below the armhole to the front horizontal seam.

On my muslin, I noticed the back neckband was really, really round. It was tough to sew. I will have to wear it a couple times likely to really get what's wrong with it. I'm thinking the neck/shoulder fit on Grainline just doesn't work for me. I believe it's meant for a more erect back; the shoulder seam is WAY back on me and I do not have forward shoulders. I also want to pull it away from my neck repeatedly. Eh. I am not sure I'll be using the pattern again. 

But I do like THIS dress! 

The fabric is (an expensive!) tencel chambray from Treadle Yard Goods in St. Paul. Lastly, maybe it's evident in the pics how low the armholes are? It's always an issue when a pattern has a sleeved and sleeveless option with the same bodice. The armholes need to be raised for sleeves so getting out of the dress is a challenge! I noted this on IG when I muslined it...but then I didn't think I had enough of this fabric to cut sleeves so I didn't adjust the armhole. Sigh.

just barely made it!

Part of this frustration, admittedly, is due to pulling out the True Bias Lander pants, looking at this front crotch curve and NOPE'ing the whole idea. True Bias Ogden - fantastic pattern. I hate I waited so long to try it. These pants? n.o.p.e. 

Someone's crotch is shaped like this...but mine isn't.

So I've given up on the Landers and am sewing another pair of Birkin Flares with some tweaks (including a button fly!). 

I think my overall feelings on the Felix are neutral. You all know I'm a Big4 / Burda fangirl. I know there are good Indies; I don't dispute that. I think that so many of them are based on the owner's body type and it doesn't translate well to creating sewing patterns for the masses. No pattern will fit all of the bodies; I TOTALLY get that -- But so many of these companies are just too specific in the body type they draft for. And I just don't have the patience (or budget!) to gamble repeatedly.  

I'm not confident I'll use my awesome paisley fabric on the Felix this fall. But I will wear this Felix dress because I think it's pretty darned cute on me.

Mid Year Check-in and Summer Sewing Plans

and June wrap-up...except there's not much to wrap up!

This month I sewed a colorblocked version of NL6301 (approximately 2.5 yards used) and it was a quasi-fail. Drats.
I bought NO fabric!
I bought NO patterns!

Mid Year Check!

• I've sewn 83 yards this year.
• I've made 43 items including gifted garments, excluding quilts (2). That sounds like a lot, I know. Accounting for the gifts, donated garments, fails and a UFO, that's down to 30. I had 10 items that were sleepwear or loungewear, down to 20. Those 20 garments are then split about 70/30 between workwear and casual/weekend wear. So an average of 2.5 workwear items per month and 1 casual item...not too crazy :) I don't think? :-p
• I made 4 gifts; 3 tops for my daughter and 1 for my mom.

one of the garments made for my daughter; Burda 1/2018 hoodie

• I've donated 3 (well 2 and NL6301 will be donated): M6886 and Burda 2/2018 top

I just did not like the color of the M6886 dress on me. Felt too bland/blah

The twisty Burda was SO cute. But that ITY was one that felt too "plastic-y"...a pretty print but it didn't feel good on. I definitely plan to sew it again in nicer fabric (ahem, wool jersey to the rescue??).
 
• I've had 2 major fails: M7724 and B6551:

I threw this pattern away

• I have 3 so-so garments, 2 that likely won't survive the next purge:
• S8601-love the pattern, hate the fabric (poplin shirting, bleh). Will remake with a lower/more open neckline
• Otto 2/2018 top-again, great pattern but the cotton knit that I used for the top required more room. My boobs are smashed in it and that makes me sad.
• Otto 2/2015 tee-pattern is okay (I'm not completely sold) but that fabric didn't work. It's now a loungewear tee

2018 Goals/Sew-lutions:

• I had a goal of 18 Burda patterns for the year and I've sewn 10 so far. YAY!
• I had a goal of no more than 18 new patterns in stash this year and I've purchased 15. Eeeek! I really want McCall's 7780 and the Burnside bibs so...
• I had a goal to sew 2 nightgowns and 2 sleep shorts. I fell in love with B6031 and made 4 nightgowns! I wear those and 2 RTW rompers to sleep most nights. I still want a "summer" one since I bought white lace :)
• I had a goal to sew 3 new outerwear pieces the first 4 months of the year. I have none outerwear (grammatical error intended).

• The replacement Burda for the CCF Clare is probably a wadder :( I don't like Raglan sleeves. I should have gone with the other coat with set in sleeves. And, it was a bit too big at the time I was working on it and now I've lost about 12 lbs so I don't even know if it's worth trying to save. This weight loss was not on purpose so it is good/not good. Stress sucks and is life ruining.
• It got too warm for me to sew the navy short Burda coat. The tundra went from 16" of snow on 4/14 to like, 90 degree weather 2 weeks later.
• My uncooperative hand and finding out I had to move paired with hot, hot weather made the trench coat a no-go. I did get it about 80% traced though so I'll be planning that in the early part of August to be ready for fall. Well the 2.7 weeks of cool-ish weather before winter comes.

• I had a goal to sew a 4-piece black workwear wardrobe (3 items were made December 2017). I made V9032, B5760 (both TNTs), Burda 6853 and Burda 11/2007 #113. The neckline on the 11/2007 Burda is weird and I've only worn the jacket (finished in January!) once. I always want to shrug/roll my shoulders, fix it while it's on. I don't wear fussy clothes. The other 3 have gotten a workout in the wardrobe! And that wool suiting was really nice so I think I'll have them awhile.
• I had a goal to complete a loungewear 'wardrobe'. Did that! Love all the pieces I made and wear them OFTEN! My absolute favorite items are the hoodie from the 1/2018 Burda and the joggers from Burda 6659.
• I had a goal to sew a new pair of Birkin flare jeans. I fouled up the zipper when I made mine and I wear them, but only with untucked/longer shirts. I need(!) a new pair. Soon.
• I had a goal to sew a nude-for-me slip. I have a black one and a not-nude-for-me nude one. I still want this. Hopefully for fall.
• I planned to participate in the PR Red Carpet contest in March and did not. And I have not been too into the site lately.

My birthday is coming up (soon!) and I want to sew 2 dresses; one for day and one for night. Day dress is for certain; NL6507. We will see if I get to a party dress or not...but maybe not because my sewing room is NOT setup yet. I'll be using this rayon challis from Fabric Mart.

July is when I start to wind up my summer sewing. I will likely have some stragglers, but I live for fall / early winter (before it's cold, cold) and tend to refocus my sewing once we hit the month of August.  For the rest of summer, I want to sew:

B6330 maxi dress in this double brushed poly from my trip to Fabric Mart.

S8414 dress in this border print cotton lawn from SR Harris if I can make it work...if not it'll be a solid yellow lawn from Fabric.com. Idk where it is right now and it doesn't look like I have a pic of it. This dress has been on my wish list since it was released.

Bodice of M7728 for the Jay/Bey OTRII concert in this Ankara wax print from Michael Levine with a paneled maxi-length skirt. Well, that was the plan! Then I thought to use the lower half of M7788 because it's CUTE!! But I hate the bodice on 7788 and how the heck do you get into it?!?! The line drawing without the wrap shows a front zipper in the pants. So the pants zip up but the bodice is a true wrap?? If that's the case, I don't think I can actually combine these two...unless I move to a side zipper.

The back of 7728 on this view is wrong...the zipper does go through the waistband.

All other views show it correctly.

Burda 4/2014 skirt 'hacked' into a trench-style skirt in this cotton twill from Fabric Mart. This fabric is MUCH darker than I remember so this may move lower on the list.

Style Arc Autumn dress or S8014 from this awesome tencel twill from Treadle Yard Goods that is somewhere in hiding. Just trust me that it is awesome, okay??

1366 (l) or S1377 (r). I will :gasp: muslin both because I can see a top from this fabric getting a major workout in the wardrobe and I want it to be *right*. [I'm thinking I need to start muslin-ing all woven tops until I develop a sloper (borrrrrring). Funnily, fitting my lower half - including pants!! - is much, much, much easier.]

 

1366 is so popular but I'll muslin both. Although looking at the line drawings now, IDK about the band on the 1377. I'll be using this shingle woven fabric from Metro Textiles.

Baste+Gather Birkin Flare jeans in this midwash denim from Fabric Mart.

True Bias Lander pants in this striped denim from Mood. Will most certainly be making a muslin as I've seen so-so reviews on the crotch fit and this fabric was PRICEY.

True Bias Ogden in my beloved Kelly green silk charmeuse from Metro Textiles

I'd like to maybe copy this LOFT tank if I get around to it!

V1586 I have a couple contenders for fabric. I'll likely make it in a b&w print :) and I'll definitely be shortening it.

You may notice that really, aside from the first 3 items, all of these are able to easily transition into fall. I bought an amazing(!) cut of Ralph Lauren cotton twill in the most perfect shade of khaki to make a nice pair of shorts. I may get them cut...or that may be a project for next summer, we'll see how my sewing mojo goes. I expect my sewing to wane a little bit for now, but I'm okay with that.

Today when I got home I did a quick check of the few places I was potentially interested in for photos. Not too bad for 5 p.m. pics! Should be really nice mid-day...will test it out this weekend :)

wearing M6519 top and NL6530 skirt <3

My sewing room is getting closer!! I have to go vertical much moreso than before and need to hang a couple of things (like an IKEA Fintorp rail to get my basket of cutting implements off of my table). I still think I can knock out that New Look dress with the partially put together...yesterday I got home and just wanted to SEW! and couldn't.

How is your year shaping up? Are you on track with sewing plans and goals?