Monday, January 21, 2019

Burda 12/2018 & Some Monday Miscellany

I was all prepared to share my trio of Butterick 6621 dresses and then I saw a RTW dress that was simple but had this cute sleeve detail and I had to have it. I looked through my options and B6621 was an excellent choice! So look for the four versions of that one this weekend! :)

RTW dress from LOFT

I did get a chance to have my daughter take pics of my forever project, this blouse from Burda 12/2018:

I fell for the sleeve and the velvet ribbon bow. And I had these two (random?) pieces of ivory poly blouseweight in stash. I have no idea where this fabric came from and why I had it in 2 pieces. After getting the seam allowances added and pattern adjustments made, I laid it out and was *just* able to fit the various pieces onto the fabric. Except I somehow did not realize the collar was cut on the fold. After everything was cut out I was confused why I didn't have "more pieces". LOL! Like, but isn't there a facing? Why did it tell me to cut 2? Wouldn't I need to cut 4??

(side note: THIS is part of the reason the cutting layouts are missed...that and what pieces need interfacing!!)

I was able to find a piece of fabric large enough to cut my collar facings. Whew!

It's totally fine...Do you see my terrible slip stitching?? I have been dealing with insomnia and one day I woke up at 3:30 a.m. and after fighting to get back to sleep for 90 minutes, I just got up and went downstairs. I watched an episode of Law & Order: SVU and sewed this. Obviously I was so not awake! LOL!!!

The sleeve band stitching was done fully awake and turned out better :)

The sleeve really caught my eye. It was the opposite of fun to sew in this shifty poly. The other thing, I did not notice until late in the process that the markings were for size 36 and I was supposed to end the pleats higher for my size 40. Oops.

I ADORE the sleeves!!!!

Btw, I sewed a size 40 with a 1" FBA (slightly too much FBA). I skipped my bicep adjustment and shortened the blouse quite a bit - more on that later.
It was pretty tough to get photos of this. Wah.

The velvet ribbon is black and I <3 it.
 There is a fabric loop in back to hold it in place.

I had purchased velvet ribbon (from JA??) when I decided to make this but it was SO stiff. After Googling, I learned silk velvet ribbon was a thing! I was going to order some on Etsy and remembered that I (luckily) still have a couple of brick & mortar fabric shops here. Called the next morning and Treadle Yard Goods had rayon velvet ribbon - so much nicer! I hopped in my car and drove 15 miles for 1 3/8 yard of ribbon. Oy! I wanted 1 1/2 and when I got there she said, "Oh after the call I thought, I should have measured it..." eesh.

This top = saga.

The shifty fabric. The stiff ribbon. At one point I was doing the rest of the cutting (bands, collar, etc) and thought, "did that rotary cutter just touch me?" and kept on doing what I was doing. A few minutes later I saw blood on my finger. I cleaned and bandaged it and was all, YAY! It didn't get on my fabric! And the next morning:

I used some diluted hydrogen peroxide to remove it (mostly) and figured the rest would come out in the wash with a little stain treatment. 

When I went to set the sleeves I found a spot of blood on the front of the blouse and a smear of blood on the shoulder. Seriously. 

Setting the sleeves I had to redo parts of one sleeve about 4 times.

The facing kept flipping out -- it's 'grown on' in front with a piece that extends and needs to be sewn onto the collar. I decided to understitch that portion:

Tried it on again and, "why is this side of the collar doing funky things??" I had caught SEVERAL inches of the blouse in the understitching. 

I am SO over this top at this point and SO ready for it to be DONE! I have a mini conniption about sewing the buttonholes because of the drama and that was the one part that went FLAWLESSLY! Go figure!
Buttons are off-white shank buttons from stash

Lastly, this thing was ridiculously long! I didn't add hem allowances as I rarely do with Burda. I ended up removing 3 inches and it was another step I was not looking forward to. Lightbulb moment! 

I pressed up the 3", sewed a 1/4" hem and then used my applique scissors to trim away the excess. I then folded it up again and stitched the hem. Worked perfectly.

 I thought I was going to have to put it on timeout after all that but it's soooo cute and I just LOVE it!!

I had to share this pic of Wilson the intrigued by the fireplace...

And I ordered a bunch of swatches from Mood for my husband's sportcoat!
slate blue cotton twill, midnight blue cotton corduroy, taupe cotton corduroy
brushed cotton twill, charcoal cotton twill, blue-gray cotton corduroy

I *really* want it to be corduroy but the brushed twill is my favorite on-screen! We'll see which he likes best when the swatches come. The taupe cord and charcoal twill are my least favorite and based on the on-screen color, that blue-gray may be too teal-ish for him.  

My 1st choice for a pattern is Bootstrap Fashion "Modern Fit 2-button Jacket". I've not had a ton of success with Lekala but the custom pattern is the obvious first choice. It should be a better starting place than a Big4 pattern. (Burda is cut far too slim for him. My lanky son? I have used several Burda patterns for him.) My other option is Vogue 8890 though I'm not 100% sure he'll fit into the size 46. We'll see!


  1. Your blouse is absolutely gorgeous. Sorry to hear about all the issues you had with it, especially cutting yourself. The end result is lovely though and fits you so well.

  2. Me: How is the candle-thing sitting on Wilson's butt like that???
    Also me: It's a glass table genius. *face palm*

    I really like the sleeves on this blouse too. Despite the challenges, the top came out really nice.

  3. I wasn't inspired by this blouse in the magazine, but it looks so good on you (much closer to my figure), you've changed my mind.

    1. Thanks Karey! It is so much nicer to see things made up on non-model bodies!

  4. This is so very pretty and you just sparkle in it. It was definitely worth the effort. Great work!

  5. You handled all of the things thrown at you very well! The blouse is gorgeous! I love the shoulder detail, and the rayon velvet ribbon is such a nice touch.

    A sports coat for your husband sounds so nice!

  6. The blouse is beautiful! As I was reading this I was wondering why I no longer sew with these types of fabrics and when I got to the end I remembered why. Once you've experienced the journey, you're just not willing to pay for that ride again! *LOL* All this to say, I love watching your sewing journey.

  7. That blouse looks perfectly wonderful on you! Now that you have all the issues & bleeding under control, do you think you will make it again? How can you resist:)?

  8. The blouse is really lovely. Also wondered about the basket carrying cat... another face palm! I wanted to say Sherry from Pattern Scissors Cloth wrote about learning from someone when she was making wedding dresses, that if you get your blood on a wedding dress, your saliva gets it out. I can't find the story but she has great tutorials.

    1. Thank you!
      Yes, I used the saliva "trick" on the smear. It was a lot of blood and several days after the fact. Totally worked!

  9. I love your blouse! I am excited to hear about the coat making for your husband. Happy sewing.

    1. Thank you Natasha! It's funny how nervous I am about making him a jacket with all of the things that I've sewn!!

  10. It may have given you "moments of angst" but the blouse & you look truly beautiful. You are a sewing ninja

  11. Your blouse is lovely! The shoulder pleats are so cool....yes I hate sewing on slippery fabric too, but your results look worth it!

    1. Thanks so much Ellegee! I LOVE those pleats! Such a fun detail!

  12. I totally loved this blouse too when I saw it on the Burdastyle website. Yours looks great though it came with a bit of trouble...hehe. Hoping to make one as well. Your story telling is a bit of a thrill!

    1. My daughter's boyfriend says we're the most dramatic people he's ever met :-p

      Thank you! I hope you get around to making it!

  13. Despite all the troubles, the blouse is gorgeous!

  14. I love those sleeves! (And also really enjoyed the book sitting on your coffee table. I already loved Michelle, but that book-so excellently written! Hope you're enjoying it, too!)

  15. Definitely a saga, but the sleeve detail is so worth it!


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