Pattern Review: Itch to Stitch Capelet

There is (yet another) discussion in the sewing community about Indie patterns and quality. I've been burned quite a few times and as such, tend to stick with Big4 and Burda, as you likely know.  But, I can be tempted and sometimes, the design or price will get me :)

I did not think this capelet was anything groundbreaking or especially novel. I'd been meaning to buy M7846 and liked that the ItS had "sleeves".

But, it was on sale and I figured, what the heck! Well, it was on sale via Itch to Stitch but I ended up paying a little more buying it through Pattern Review. I hate being asked to register on a site just to buy a pattern.

The pattern is sized XXS - XL. I have read a couple tester's blogs where the say the final pattern had 2" added to the front. I wonder if the pattern photo is pre-lengthening??

I'm not sure how tall the designer is but I found it super long on me. Fabric choice will also play a part though. Fabric with a lot of drape will hang a bit more than a more rigid fabric and this sweater knit is definitely drapey. I shortened mine 2 inches front and back tapering to nothing a few inches from the raglan seams. I then realized that only the front was changed from the original length. Oops. I should have left the back alone.

Another positive about the pattern itself is that it was layered. I was able to print my size only - a medium - and that always makes tracing off a bit easier. I looked at the instructions to be sure the "sleeves" were created as I thought - and they were. Also, I sewed them up an additional 2 inches (despite not changing the length at the seamline). I will admit to being mildly agitated by the pattern pieces having a foldline, a grainline, and some squiggly line indicating the stretch of fabric. It's unnecessary/overkill IMO. One of my smaller gripes with Indie pattern companies. Sometimes, they seem to do something *just* to be different from the larger, commercial patterns.

Otherwise, construction is just as straightforward as you'd think. Sew the raglan seams, sew the collar seam, attach the collar, hem, stitch in the ditch to create sleeves. Done. Of course, the hemming is the time consuming bit here! I just pressed up the 1/2" hem and sewed it with my coverstitch. I do not like the stitching in the ditch on a drapey knit.

I made a high round back adjustment on my latest make and am thinking this pattern would have benefited . Otherwise, I think the fit is great.

This sweaterknit was picked up a couple (2? 3?) years back at SR Harris. I liked it in store and then every time I went to grab it, it seemed WAY too bright for me. I'm still not 100% sold on the color combo but we will see if it gets wear. I'm working on a pair of slim Burda pants from that ponte I picked up at Ginny's which I think should pair well with this. This post was written awhile ago. I don't care for the fabric and the pattern I thought I'd use for my nice ponte is OUT.

Next time, I'd definitely use something with a touch more body (but not ponte IMO) and will remove a bit of the sleeve flare (slash lines then overlap and true the hem line).

Someone asked in my last post about wearing it with a coat. I'm not certain how that would work out! LOL! This is one of the reasons that I'm not sure I would sew this again. Since I live in a cold climate, there just are few opportunities for cape/capelet type garments. Late fall and early spring which can be like a BLIP on the calendar.

Jumping in on this post with my 3rd pair of Style Arc Sandra jeans. I sewed these in a size 16 because that's what size I used previously. I ended up sewing them with side seams varying between 5/8" and 3/4" instead of the 3/8" (really 10 mm) included in the pattern.

I have no clue where the denim is from :/ but it's decent! A mid to light weight, no spandex, and a nice, deep blue.

my husband can be a prankster!!

And even though I'd previously drafted a contoured waistband, this pair gapes at center back. I had them almost completed so I did the elastic trick...measure the back between belt loops, cut the elastic 2 inches shorter (this is an individual measurement), insert it and stitch it in place through all thickness. Cover the stitching with the belt loops. Luckily, I caught this BEFORE I put the belt loops on so I didn't have to remove/redo bartacks. You can see the elastic in the back in this pic:

There's a lot I like about this pattern and some things that give me pause. I think I'm going to plan to muslin the Workplace Social Claryville jeans in the next month or so.

Whining about WIPs

I mentioned before how there's been nothing but fails or quasi-fails lately. I pushed myself to get my Burda dress completed and I can't move in it.

I tried it on multiple times throughout construction and was so confused and disappointed that it felt so snug on my arms after I'd measured and made a 1.25" full bicep adjustment.

And this was with night belly! :-p

It took me awhile but I realized the issue wasn't the bicep width, it was the armhole depth. A quick (but too late) tissue fitting showed the armhole stitching line was just over 1" below my armhole. Grrrr!

A quick check of my PR reviews and blog posts shows the few fitted, woven, sleeved Burda dresses I've made have restricted motion. AH! I need to pay close attention the next time around. As it stands, I am removing the sleeves and going to make this one sleeveless :(

It's fine sleeveless but I wanted sleeves!!

I'm also noticing that the shoulder is a bit long despite using a size 40. Hopefully I can get them undone and bias bound this weekend.

I went for an easy and not critical and QUICK project next. I really liked the Itch to Stitch Cape Cod Capelet when it was released and scooped it up. 

I figured best case, this would work out fine and worst case, it'd be a wearable muslin. It IS winter afterall! 

This fabric is kind of meh. I purchased it awhile ago from SR Harris. I think it's just a *touch* too drapey for this pattern (but feel like a ponte would be too heavy). 

I'm going to finish this one. It looks much better when I hike the CF up a couple inches, so I'll be shortening CF and CB. It's a weird length on me as-is. 

I will also be sewing up the sleeve just a bit more than the pattern indicates. Full review to come!

Not super impressive on Lilly but that's okay...I really like it on!

The rest of November, I hope to:

Finish my jeans (just need bar tacks in various places and to attach the belt loops)

Finish my blazer (I keep trying it on and it looks SO good, I want to wear it!)

Finish my dress above

Finish the capelet

Sew one other low-stakes item. I'm thinking either a top from V9111 for Thanksgiving or a new apron. But I don't want to buy fabric so the apron may be out...we'll see. 

I was rummaging through the stash today and am so excited for my 2 weeks off in December because I will be SEWWWWWIIIIINNNNNGGGGGGGGG my behind off. Being non-religious (more agnostic than atheist), I've long since held the belief that Christmas is for children. Mine are young adults. Christmas presents? No. I just paid tuition bills and phone bills and renewed car registration! LOL! :-p And my husband will be working so it will truly be free time for me. 

Hopefully I'll get out of this sewing rut before then.

Oh! And this week made 8-weeks post-op and I'm healing so well! My scars are almost non-existent unless you look closely and I haven't even used any scar treatments. I'm out of the sports bras around-the-clock and sticking to bralettes (ooh! there's an idea! I can try to work up a bralette muslin soon!). I can't begin to imagine feeling comfortable in an underwire but I suppose it'll happen eventually :)