Thursday, April 29, 2021

Burda 1/2016 + Beginner Sewing Summit

What?! Another Burda make?! :we will pretend not to be surprised: :). I just love that, for the most part, I can trace off my size, make my adjustments, and sew! It is rare that a Burda mag pattern doesn't work out from a fit perspective (it does happen though!), hence their top spot as a fave pattern source of mine.

I made this top for my daughter actually. But then, I forgot to include it in a package I shipped to her. Boooooo! By the time they came to visit earlier this month, the weather in Long Beach had already turned too warm to get much use from it, and they have a tiiiiny apartment, so I try to only send what is asked.

This is a size 38 front and 40 back (I trace a 40 for myself at the neckine and shoulder and grade out to a 42). The design calls for a silky woven for the back but, no thank you! 

I'm not a huge fan of cotton knit, which is why I used this fabric for her! I do love the design so maybe I'll make it work in my wardrobe. 

The front has 4 diagonal pleats, the upper back has soft gathers, and then these cool sleeves. I'm not versed enough in pattern design to know what all the different elements are called so - forgive me! The sleeve is fairly square and pretty much comes down to about the waist on front and back. It wears a bit like a cut-on sleeve - you have that fold of fabric at the armhole (it has to go somewhere!) - and makes for a comfy sweatshirt. 

It has a sort of bateau neckline and the sleeve and hem are finished with bands. I kept the pattern out to make one for myself but alas... :) 

The band does ride up a bit, but that's because it's basically a size+ too small at the hip - I'll live with it. It's wearable as is, I just get poofy pleats at times. This one will definitely make a reappearance at some point.

I was working on a knock-off of a RTW top I saw - it was pink with blue and white striped statement sleeves. Super cute. I nixed it though, just wasn't feeling the sleeve once I got the first one done. Boooo. 

Not the top but similar concept:

My wool boucle skirt was finished, or so I thought. I tried it on, thought, "WHAT is up with this hem!?" and realized I didn't catch it in all areas while blind hemming by machine. I'll have to do that in the daylight :-p AND I cut another version of my B5760 in a navy lace (excited!).

My Burda 6/2018 jacket stalled (this is why I used to sew linings for jackets first!). I have the shell completed but knew I'd need to make some fitting tweaks so I held off on the lining. Now, I'm being lazy. I'll get back to it!

I pivoted and sewed a silk top from the Burda 5/2020 issue (it's gorgeous!) full review to come!! 

Lastly, I invite you all to participate in the Rebecca Page 2021 Beginner Sewing Summit taking place from Tuesday, May 3rd through Friday, May 7th. 

Over 40 classes are being offered, covering a wide range of topics, and providing 20+ hours of content.

Classes are free to attend live!

If you'd like to rewatch any sessions or if you miss a live session, you can purchase an all access pass for $59. My Link

Yes, I will receive a small commission if you purchase a pass from my link. Otherwise, there is no cost or other obligation involved to view the classes. 

There is no other compensation for instructors - we were asked if we'd like to participate and I thought it'd be a fun way to stretch myself and stay active in the community outside from the "here are 35 pictures of the thing I made with no other info about the garment, the fabric, the pattern, or the process!".  Fine - I'm being cheeky :) 

There is a schedule of classes near the end of the page HERE.

My class airs on Thursday, May 6th

Sunday, April 18, 2021

Burda 6/2018 jacket WIP and more...

I have been planning this jacket for 2 years now! I purchased the fabric, zipper, and snaps in spring of 2019 and have finally gotten around to starting the project.

If you don't know, Burda's zipper recommendations are often for the largest size. So back then, I ordered a 20" zipper. Well, the size 42 takes an 18" zipper! Grr! Wawak to the rescue (plus, I finally purchased a hip curve ruler - they were on sale!). 

Here is where it stands: 


Left and right fronts, and the back, assembled.
Sleeve outseam sewn (still need to sew the side seam)
Sleeve's need to be basted in now that the zipper is in, so I can check fit, then I'll continue on. 

I FINALLY finished my brother's golf club covers. I started with these free templates (HERE), muslined each, and then made some adjustments.  I used my Cricut to cut out the number/letter labels, backed with Wonder Under (though the Cricut Maker can cut fabric without the backing), and topstitched in place. I'd watched a video on YouTube (HERE) by Dormie on how theirs are constructed (and it's EXACTLY how I'd set out to construct mine!), and shared it with him. He really liked the diagonal stripes, so we incorporated that element. 

My brother and I took a trip to SR Harris where he chose the purples for his hybrid covers and the red/yellow CAUTION-inspired colors for his driver and fairway covers. They are lined with a lightweight Polartec water-resistant fleece. 


I will readily admit that I was *this* close to redoing the dark purple one when I saw that it was kind of lopsided! LOL! I think the intricacies of topstitching that 3 is what stopped me!


I had no clue how work with this nylon fabric and it really stalled progress. Turns out that a Microtex needle and slightly looser tension was the right move. They turned out so nicely!

In other news, I had an impromptu cleaning session in the basement, where fabric and pattern storage is. Over time, I always end up with a bunch of patterns and magazines in the sewing room, after random browsing sessions or intentions on sewing something. Then, they end up in random boxes and what not in the basement. I filed everything away and did a tiny bit of rearranging. And, after putting away some cuts of fabric, I reminded myself that I need not buy ANOTHER YARD OF FABRIC :-p


The file cabinets are standard, short, 2-drawer office-style cabinets. My husband works at a private school and whenever there are pieces of furniture being discarded, he checks with me first. The table I use for my knitting machine, for my serger + coverstitch, the desk that was my sewing table that is now a laundry folding table...and these cabinets are all scored for free!

And that machine is a vintage Kenmore 1503! I intend to get it serviced when I have the space to keep it set up. 

Lastly, I have had the pleasure of seeing and spending time with my baby grandson this past weekend! He is 7 months old now and is SO HAPPY and active! He "talks" constantly, he loves giving kisses, and he's always dancing. He still dislikes socks, has never worn shoes, but doesn't mind clothes now. LOL!

I have to leave the room when they're trying to put him to sleep because, "Nana gets you too hyped!" hahahaha! :-D 



Thursday, April 8, 2021

Some reviews! Ha!!

Soooo behind, but what else is new!?

To start, here is the too small M7061 on me:


No material changes from prior versions. I sewed a Medium, cut the sleeves as long as I could (I squeezed this out of 1.25 yards of fabric, even with that enormous hood pattern piece!). 

My pattern has been adjusted for a 1" increase to the bicep. I added eyelets for the drawstring and totally forgot that the hood overlaps quite a bit in front. I reduced the overlap and just eased the excess into the neckline - it's fine! 

I added the front pocket but didn't enjoy trying to fold and stitch this (very!) thick knit so I left the lower edge of the pocket raw and stitched close to the edge. I cut a strip of cotton knit super long, serged it (and had to continue to reduce the width to fit the eyelets!), turned it out and used it as cording. 

This one may end up being handed over to my daughter, we'll see.

Awhile ago I decided I just HAD to have this dress from the plus section of Burda 3/2011 (#139). 
Cute, right?!

The smallest size is a 44, which is fine for the lower half but too big up top. I graded down one size at the neckline and raglans - I would ordinarily use a 40 front neckline but figured it'd be fine. I ended up sewing the raglans and side seams with a slightly larger seam allowance, and adding no hem allowance which is somewhat typical for me with Burda. I skipped the tie-belt.
I really fell for the shoulder details and then, they almost killed me! I made lots of samples and end the end, I used bias tape ironed flat for the shoulder detail and ponte backed with a lightweight cotton knit for the pocket (and neck bands too!). After getting the one side done, I refused to do it on the other side. 

Fabric is from Michael Levine and has been in stash for about a year and a half.

Lastly, I saw this periodic table fabric (Kaufman) and HAD to have it! I snagged a yard of it knowing I wanted to make a bowl cozy (finally!!!) and a mask, at least. 


I used a tutorial by Vanessa at The Crafty Gemini and it was simple and straightforward until I went to turn it! LOL! I left one end open from low to high point, which was a good 2+ inches and WHEW! It was tough. I used a solid navy Kona cotton for the outside. 


It makes me happy! I'm so glad I finally made it!  I don't use the microwave often because nothing beats convection ovens for reheating, but when I do need the microwave, bowl cozy for the win! 

Reminder to use MICROWAVE SAFE cotton batting (much of the cotton batting has scrim in it that can be flammable). I bought Pellon Wrap-n-Zap, used cotton thread, and it's worked out well the couple times I've used it. 


We have big bowls but then, it's been a long time of having what amounts to a house full of adults, or at least adult-sized bellies. This is a 9" square, I'll make a 10" next time. 

I finished up my Butterick skirt and have the Burda 5/2019 dress partially sewn. 

I might pivot to starting on a jacket. I have an uncanny knack for starting on very fitted garments right at the worst time of the month where my belly is painfully bloated and I feel horrible. 









Monday, April 5, 2021

March Wrap-up and April Plans

 This month I sewed 4 items for a total of 5 3/4 yards.

I sewed:
  • Burda 1/2019 camisole - 1 yard from stash
    • viscose challis
  • Burda 1/2016 sweatshirt - 2 yards from stash (for my daughter)
    • navy cotton jersey
  • Burda 3/2014 top - 1.5 yards from stash (For a special project)
    • teal cotton lawn
  • McCall's 7061 sweatshirt - 1.25 yards from stash
    • cotton sweatshirt fleece
    • grommets
ACCOMPLISHMENTS: All of my projects came from stash this month!

FAILS: Eh, no real fails. The McCall's sweatshirt is too small. This is my 4th version of this pattern and I did not account for the lack of stretch in these fleece. It's pure comedy trying to put it on. sighhhhhh.

FAVE: Fave has to go to the camisole! It fits so nicely and I just love the pleated upper bodice. 

M7061

I did buy fabric this month though-oops! I got a total of 13 yards from Fabric Mart. Mostly dress-weight (4 cuts, 3 yards each), and a heavier crepe for a skirt. I ordered what was shown as the last yard for the skirt but, of course, Fabric Mart sent 1 1/4 yards and now I can expand my options. Woohoo!

For the first quarter of the year, I'm a bit upside down and I really want to improve that ratio over the next few months. 

20 3/8 yards OUT 
22 yards IN

For the month of April, I want to sew and just enjoy the process, rather than worry about utility or practicality. 

I started with my TNT, Butterick 5760, in a green & black boucle. I'm adding an off-center seam to create a split in front, and adding a lining. I did a blind hem by machine and when I went to try it on, I was confused on why the hem was rippling...I discovered that it didn't catch in MANY spots. Grr! Spongey boucle + nighttime = no deal. I'll remove the stitching and have at it again. I can't hem by hand, plus, the stitches sink right into this fabric, and it's wool so a shot of steam makes all the difference in the world. 


I've also traced off this Burda 5/2019 dress and plan to use one of my new fabrics


It's a poly dressweight that's black with gold (hearts), white circles, and some pink accents. 
It is very pretty in person!! 

I REALLY want to sew this green fabric (also from my recent FM purchase) so I can wear it this spring (or "spring" in MN). I want something soft, with gathers or pleats, but no buttons (many of the patterns that are kind of what I have in mind are button front). Still looking for the right pattern. 


In other news, I FINALLY got my Ottobre baby mags I ordered back in January! There was a change in required declarations apparently(?) and the package was returned to Ottobre before being re-sent. So I might make a baby item too!

3/2014 and 4/2014

For my surprise project, I filmed at a local bookstore, Cream & Amber (website and InstaGram). As thanks to the owner, I put together this basket with a plant, a tee that I decorated with vinyl to say, "Just One More Chapter", and sea salt caramels. <3 I also picked up a few books!



As always, more later!