Sewing Outerwear! Burda 8/2017 Jacket

This post is kind of epic...lots of photos!

Blahhhhh. Not the coat. Me. As mentioned in my prior post, I decided on a slow sewing project for a couple of reasons. And I know that 15 days for a piece of outerwear isn't technically a long time...it felt like forever! LOL! But also felt very low-pressure, which was needed.

I purchased this fabric - wool melton - from Fabric Mart last November in the buy the piece section. I spent $21 for 2.25 yards. When I went to NYC, I saw these buttons at  M&J Trimming and decided they were IT! I spent $3.98 per button and bought 7 (1 extra to have on hand) so they cost more than the main fabric! I got my lining from Metro Textiles.

I traced this pattern in a size 42 and did a 1" FBA and ended up lowering the dior dart too much. Sometimes I notice it and it annoys me...sometimes I don't. I'm sure in the long run I won't care. On Burda tops, I normally trace a size 40 shoulder but stayed with the 42 here because, outerwear. I think it fits fine.

The sleeve measured *ok* but then, I have to always consider the intended design ease - I want to keep with the spirit of the pattern. And since I normally need to add to the bicep I decided to muslin the sleeve to decide on the adjustment.

It was okay -- not tight but I didn't want to struggle when wearing a long sleeves or a sweater underneath. I added 1" which ended up being too much. I took 1/2" out (total) from the back seam. You'll also notice that my sleeve dart is super pointy on the muslin. I ended up having to baste the dart until I got it smooth and then I stitched it and removed the basting stitches.

LOVE the back fit!!!

I love the collar and know why they had you interface the upper and under...but this melton is THICK. I should have used a lighter interfacing or only interfaced one side. The under-collar uses the same piece when really, it should be slightly smaller.

Speaking of the collar...the instructions have you attach a collar stand to each collar piece and then sew those together. The stand almost looked like it didn't fit the collar (there's this flat part on the collar) but you just have to mind your markings. On the stand, I marked in the seam allowance and lined it up with the collar...

And ta-da! Unpicking those stitches was NOT fun though.

I adore the in-seam buttonhole and decided to go with bound buttonholes for the other two. For the windows in the facing, I used the 'interfacing method' where you use interfacing instead of organza and when you turn it to the inside you can fuse it in place. I still stitched around it by machine because I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Makes me happy!!

The shoulder seam on the jacket is forward but I'm not sure why. The facing and lining has the shoulder seam in the normal position. Just a design choice??

The sleeves are new to me...some kind of a raglan / set-in hybrid?? It's 2-piece but you have the dart and it didn't need easing. Weird!

I used a raglan shoulder pad from Wawak

This is the only time I'll ever button that upper button! LOL!!! 

The pockets aren't very usable for me :-/  One, I put them too close to the flaps and two, they sit high up on the body. They can't really be lowered though...if I were making this again for some reason I'd just add welt pockets.

The entire time I was sewing the pocket flaps, I knew that the double layer of melton was too much. After getting them done, I knew there was no way they would attach neatly. So I redid the flaps with lining on the interior. I skipped the topstitching in most places on this jacket. I hand stitched the pockets to the jacket.

Kudos to Burda for their wonderful back lining piece. No finagling to ensure you have ease in back!

When I was ready to do the lining, I pinned the vertical seams of the lining and jacket together and my coat was a bit bigger than my lining. Wahhh! I can only assume that I stretched the wool out a bit during sewing/trying on. I was able to shrink it back with steam for the most part but the front of the lining just was NOT meeting the facing at the bottom. And I had already pinked my lining seams so couldn't let them out. I left it for a couple days and said, screw it. I likely won't ever even notice it.

I cut gussets and finished the area. Shrug.

Then I had it repinned, had sewed the sleeve lining to the sleeves already and was ready to sew the hem. OMG...I forgot the shoulder pads! So I had to go in there and insert them. I sat down to tack the pads in and saw this:

SERIOUSLY?!!?

I unpicked the area, resewed it and FINALLY hemmed it. I placed my inseam button and then placed the others by measuring. It was very important that they line up. When I went to button it I realized I didn't leave enough slack on the functioning buttons so I'll need to re-sew them. Wahhhh! :)

But I finished it and I love it!

I've wanted to take photos at this wall since forever. It's the side of the building of the Ace Hardware. They also had a fall display out and a sign welcoming people to take photos!

This coat has been on my to-do list for awhile and I am SO glad I finally got to it! If you're interested in this one, it's the featured pattern and has full instructions and pics.

I have the Style Arc Mindi pattern cut out so that's up next.

So I Bought the Most Possible Fabric...

:) Are you ready?! LOL!!!!

Last year I thought the Sew Camp looked like a great idea. And this year knew I wanted to go. I'd reminded myself to look into it but forgot until Carolyn mentioned it. Because it was cheaper (and I mean, why not?!) for me to fly into New York than PA, I decided to add a day at the start of the trip. Well...I ended up adding 2. Sort of.

Another Nor'easter was heading for the east coast and I got out just ahead of the storm. I was able to spend about half a day Wednesday and half a day Thursday in NYC.

I visited M & J Trimming before everything shut down Wednesday. I went to see Stomp! on Broadway that night as well. I used LYFT for the first time ever. I'm all grown-up now! :-p

Thursday we had to move up our train down to PA and were able to visit Mood, Pacific Trimming, Metro Textiles and stopped in a couple of other places.

I got made fun of for my Minnesotan-self wearing a lightweight jacket, which was open most of the morning btw, when it was supposedly "cold". :-p

Friday morning we headed to Fabric Mart wherein we spent HOURS (3-4) shopping, laughing, and having a great time. 

Seriously. If you order from them online you HAVE to visit the store at some point. It was really awesome. And, do not let those bags fool you. MOST of us shipped the bulk of our fabric home! :)

One of my fave pics from the weekend!

Carriage Corner Bed & Breakfast is really a fantastic, homey, cozy place. They've decorated beautifully, the food was *AMAZING*, and sew camp is now definitely a once a year plan for me. I was able to finish 4 items (my knit items were hemmed when I got home):

Ottobre 2/2018 top and dress 

Burda 7/2017 pants

McCall's 7627 top for my daughter

I was going to save this for the end but who wants to end wonderfulness with not-so-wonderfulness? Not me! My daughter had a fender bender in my tiny blue car. Sadface. It is currently with the body shop for like, EVER! (or 5-7 business days but, whatev...) She is okay which is what matters.

Moving on!

I snagged some wonderful items while at the B&B; handmade (gorgeous!) wood clapper and shoulder press stand...and through conversations and what not I also managed to order an Ott Lite, Seam Fix seam ripper and Betzina's Fast Fit book from Amazon while we were sitting at our sewing machines! :) I also had the (mis)pleasure (haha! Only because they are so out of my budget right now!!) of using a Huskylock and Bernina serger. Swoon. I love my Brother but yeah, those are definite upgrades. 

And then we had these in our bathrooms to use and I brought a couple home because black makeup towel, marked makeup is TOO cute to pass up!

FABRIC!!!

The first piece of fabric I decided to buy, at Mood

Mood is as overwhelming as you'd think it would be. It's a several hours trip in itself. I can totally see it being the place to shop for something special but not my everyday stash-mania type of store :)

Top: lightweight striped denim, heavier double sided striped denim

Bottom: hand painted tweed suiting, navy wool suiting that's pre interfaced

Next up was Metro Textiles

Much smaller but well curated and Kashi knows his stuff.

Top: Kelly green silk charmeuse, black silk georgette

Bottom: polka-dot silk chiffon, awesome "shingled" white woven

Left: All 3 are a heavy, drapey, super fantastic rayon crepe suiting. I saw the white first and "good" white fabric is hard to come by so I knew I needed. Then I saw the fuchsia and then he showed me the black. DOH! I got 3 yds white, 2 yds black, 1 yd pink

Right: navy tonal suiting, print cotton pique woven, light gray suiting with a little shimmer (hard to capture in a photo)

Kashi found this navy acetate lining for me for my Mood suiting (I snagged 4 yards because I really like the polkadots!)

And I had a swatch of my trench coat fabric and Kashi chose this lining. It's perfect!! 

And then Fabric Mart!!!! 

It was really cool to see the store and get a feel for how things are done. I'm amazed at what all they do with the staff size. I spied a bolt of shirting that I wanted but it was waiting to make it to the website. It's there now...and I'm assuming P-Z will be on sale tomorrow wherein I will buy it. Never mind what I have now. NEVER MIND IT!!!! :-p

Top: precut woven orange with gold stripes (LOVE!), rayon challis (I bought 2 of these 2 yard cuts), rayon challis paisley print (I think 2 or 3 of us got this one)

Bottom: precut rayon crepe challis(!), cotton voile, polyester blouse weight, printed blouseweight woven (I haven't checked the composition of it). The print runs through the center with solid navy on either side.

The orange is a Cotton & Steel print designed by Melody Miller. I love fun selvedges!

The most uneventful photo ever??

Top: camel (it doesn't look like it at all!) wool blend suiting, striped cotton rayon suiting (!), polkadot sweatshirt fabric

Bottom: Kaufman cotton flannel (pjs!), pale pink shirting, light blue striped shirting, white cotton-lycra shirting

You may have seen this next piece on my Instagram (or someone elses! I think 4 of us bought it)...It's a beautiful panel print that's double sided and was just too fun to pass up. Even if I have no idea what to make from it.

And this one I went back and got towards the end, and had to pull stunts to get it home LOL! It's likely synthetic, is a pale blush color, and it's a panel. I feel like I asked for 4 panels but there's a LOT of it. Should be interesting!!!

Lastly, I was surprised by my own disinterest in knits this go round but...I snagged a couple.

Top: cotton knit in grey stripe (used for my Ottobre top), black floral jersey

Bottom: Navy floral double brushed knit, taupe sweater knit

 Pacific Trimming was everything!

And even though their pricing was better, I really liked M & J's selection.

Top 2 from Pacific, all others from M & J.

2nd photo on the right is for the 4/2018 Burda trench. I need another set of the small D-rings though

Ribbing and shoulder pads from Pacific, Stay Tape from Fabric Mart

3 pack of Style Arc patterns (all sizes included!) scored at Fabric Mart

I'm not sure how many yards I bought. I estimated 100 total when I was in FM but I don't think it's that much. Maybe 80. LMAO!

That was an epic post of epicness, right?! It was a really fun weekend and worth every penny I spent and all the sleepiness I'm now experiencing!

I have some reviews to do: S8601, Ottobre 2/2018 x2, M7627, my Burda coat...WHEW! Soon!