FAIL: Burda 09/2018 #106

Grrrrrrrr!!!! Wahhhhhhhhhh!!!!!

I've been looking for a slim (not skinny) pant pattern and (while working on the dress that's still a WIP), I found this pattern in that same issue.

1) While tracing the pattern, I commented more than once about the leg shaping (slim vs skinny!!). I should have quit then.
2) When I pulled the fabric out it was really wrinkled. I went to iron it and it stuck to the iron / left a residue on my iron! I should have quit then.
3) The fabric has vertical stretch (and no horizontal stretch) which always confuses me. What would one sew that they only need vertical stretch? So I cut on the crossgrain and *just* had enough fabric to do so.
4) I had major issues inserting the inseam zippers for some reason. I should have quit then.

Other issues I had with the pattern is shaping through the inseam and side seam but less shaping through the center seams. I had to tweak the back leg a bit. There were notches on the inseam and side seam but no notches on the center seams. The waistband is just a rectangle. Blergh.

I cut a size 44, took some measurements and made some changes right away to add to the CB length and back crotch extension. I took the side seams in a little through the knee.

My fabric was pretty similar to the magazine fabric in print...

But I've never felt a rayon/spandex fabric that felt like this. It's a gabardine so twill-like...but it felt very plasticky. Meh. 

see where that seam hits?

No real pictures because I was SO annoyed and OVER IT. And there's no saving them because they give me diaper butt AND they are uncomfortable on. So they may look okay, but they are not. 

Oh, I should state that at some point I decided that these could be a (wearable?) muslin for my nice navy ponte but I am NOT using my ponte for this pattern!

ONWARD!

I'm overrrrrrr itttttttt with my recent fails. Although I made Vogue 9111 for Thanksgiving and it's cute and awesome so there's that. I'm going to finish up my blazer from the tailoring class this weekend. I want to have it complete to take with me to my sewing meetup next Saturday :)

In other news...when the local sewing group traveled down to Rochester to Ginny's, we found ourselves in a discussion about painful developments with the reproductive system that comes with getting older. It's like I turned 40 and my body said, NOW! I've suffered with ovarian cysts for awhile but those bother me most during ovulation and unless one ruptures (seriously, WORST pain ever), it's not unbearable. I've dealt with small fibroids for awhile and more recently endometriosis. Oy. 

I've been suffering the past few months. Now, I'm obviously not a skinny minny but THIS is definitely not the norm:

Every month for about 2 days, I have this bloating. It is so PAINFUL. And now I'm sure it contributes to my lack of mojo. I'm working with my doc to try to figure out a plan...In the meantime, I'm trying to focus my sewing at the same time and all these fails ain't helping! Grr!

In other non-sewing news, I blew-out my hair last week in preparation for braids and my braider canceled on me. Booooo! So I decided to flat iron it and I've been fussing and whining about slow growth but EEK it grew fast! I've always known the back of my hair literally grows twice as fast and I AM still frustrated by how much longer the back is! :)

Then I had to do a fro comparison pic and Oh! Okay...I suppose it is growing! LOL! 

Hopefully you had an awesome Thanksgiving if you'e in the US....and if not, hopefully you at least had pie! :)

Simplicity 1430 top and Burda 6769 denim skirt (love!)

EVERY DAY, as the sun starts to set, I think, OH MY GOSH! I COULD HAVE TAKEN BLOG PICS TODAY!

Oy. This skirt is totally like 2 months old and is already beloved.

I made this for the first time in 2016. I ended up distressing the skirt - which I like! - but that made it a "for play" garment only.

Ever since, I've been in neeeed of a denim skirt. My work environment is casual (though I tend towards a more business casual/professional) style) so a denim skirt totally works for work. And then, one day, I came across this vintage pattern on Google:

Oh. My. Word.

Well I DEFINITELY need a midi length denim skirt!!!! :) I eventually settled on this pattern because, why not? I like the fit, I've sewn it before, it just needs some minor tweaking.

-I cut a size 16 front and 18 back, same as before. This just works well when making skirts for my body type.

-On the first version, I used the pockets from my Style Arc Sandra jeans. I couldn't find the pattern piece (sigh) and used the pocket from the Birkin Flares, shaped to match the inspiration skirt.

-I also used the Birkin coin pocket because I don't like the plain square that comes with the pattern.

-I slashed and spread the pattern 6 inches to get the length I wanted. I put on the old skirt and measured from the hemline to wear I wanted the finished skirt to hit.

- I had such a hard time sewing the vent on this pattern the first time around and did some modification that I can't explain to you, I just made it work.

-I added a walking slit in front by removing 3/4" from the CF seam tapering to zero.

-I ADDED RIVETS! WOOHOOOOOOOO!
I used Taylor Tailor's tutorial. He suggested having a piece of metal (steel specifically perhaps, I don't recall) and I found the PERFECT item. This shelf divider was in an old file cabinet at work and I came across a stack of them when we were putting things back together after a remodel. Paired with my concrete fireplace hearth, putting my rivets in were a BREEZE! I did need scraps as a spacer, and tested 1 rivet out before starting. I just cut some squares, inserted the rivet through all thickness, and then cut around the rivet afterward.

-I topstitched and topstitched some more and some more after that :-p Funny story...my Singer Quantum Stylist 7258, that was like, $180, makes bartacks WAY better than my 9985 that was like, $500! Eesh.

-I have no idea where the denim came from. I have so many random cuts! The rivets and tack button are from Taylor Tailor. 

I'd like to wear this skirt everyday, IJS.



Simplicity 1430 - I've made the shorts from this pattern a couple times (and have an unblogged pair to share!) and I have noticed the top before now...just didn't pay enough attention to it!

It's such a great, simple pattern!

I was looking for a sleeveless top that could be worn solo. I love my Ogden camis and while I'll wear them solo "for play", I would not wear them to work without a cardi or jacket over them. I looked at A LOT of tops and kept coming back to this one.

I could make 10 of these.

I think there are lots of options with the front neckline too to differentiate. Some have left it open (ending the facing with the front of the top), some have left it open and added ties (definitely doing this!). I could see adding a ruffle down the front, eliminating the cutout altogether and having fun with the seaming (e.g. using stripes horizontally and vertically, color-blocking, etc).

front cut-out, neck binding and french binding on the armholes

Whenever I purge clothes, RTW or handmade, I make sure to 'steal' any notions I can from those in the trash pile! :) This button is from something RTW that I purged who knows when!

I really like the fit and will be focused on getting this one to TNT status!! I sewed a size 14 with 3/4" FBA, 5/8" swayback adjustment, and 3/4" added to the back hip via a slash and spread.

side slits 

The fabric is a rayon challis from Cali Fabrics. I used my Best Press to tame it and the pattern (wisely) advises you to blockfuse a piece of fabric before cutting the facings. I used a very lightweight interfacing that I scored for $1/yard from Fabric Mart that IMO is *very* similar to Fashion Sewing Supply's ProSheer Elegance Couture. Such a great deal!!

I've worn this top a few times since finishing it and it wears and washes up well. I love the color scheme. It's very colorful yet muted and that makes it so versatile for me!

I really want to blog both of my projects from the 04/2019 Burda next. My skirt is a little too tight since I finished it. I blame it on Summer Shandy and tacos! :-p We will see...but totally have to photograph the dress because I wear it ALL the time because it is AWESOME and FANTASTIC and I think YOU should sew it TOO! :-D

Calling Uncle on M7726

This pattern is at least a year and half old and I was initially pretty "meh" on it. And every so often, I'd see a pair that I liked. I mostly thought that 1) they were WAY too high-waist for me 2) the back pleats didn't seem to work too well and 3) I hate that extra long front zipper.

I finally added it to my stash this spring and still, went months waffling on it. Then I added it to my summer plans and spent weeks waffling. Then I finally decided to cut them out and right up until the point where I was about to cut them out, I considered bailing.

First, the envelope includes all sizes. I went through the gazillion sheets twice and I had 2 of the same sheet. This pattern sheet had the front pants piece for sizes 16-22 and the pocket piece for sizes 6-14.  So I was missing the front pants piece for sizes 6-14 and pocket piece for 16-22. I was relieved because I felt managing with the smaller pocket piece was doable.

I wish I'd been missing the pants piece because I would have SURELY jumped ship. But nope, I carried on. Sigh.

The pattern pieces were ENORMOUS. I considered the fact that my twill would be too rigid for the style but, I carried on. Sigh.

A 9" zipper was required. Eesh. I carried on. Sigh.

The instructions are HORRIBLE. Now, y'all know me and know that I sew near any and everything and rarely struggle with any sort of construction. It's actually a straightforward design - not complicated - but the instructions are HORRIBLE. I couldn't believe how unclear they made things. Bleh.

Once I got them assembled, I basted the pleats (they are sewn through full thickness of front and facings) and basted the side seams.

CLOWN PANTS!

Listening to foolishness re: the sad state of America...

Yuck. I hate them. I ended up taking the side seams in another 1" (about 1'4" from the pockets, increasing once I got past the pocket). They did feel a lot better on but I was not happy about the fit, about the fact that they came up to my bustline darn near, and I felt they were not the best use of my wonderful printed twill. I kicked myself for not cutting another pair of NL6459 after finishing the crepe pair.

I pulled out a few pair of flat-front, side-zip pant patterns and I believe I can cut M7745 from the cut pants. I have to take them apart (meh) but I don't want to waste the fabric! I picked it up at Cali Fabrics. I check them out periodically and wonder why I don't shop there more frequently. 1) hate the whole yard requirement 2) I always get bad cuts there. This fabric and the jersey I used for my Kommatia tee was cut terribly. I don't think they'll be in my regular rotation of online retailers -- I find poor cutting to be completely unacceptable* -- but I do like this fabric. 

*I stopped shopping with Fabric.com for over 4 years because they'd routinely send me pieced yardage. I would order 3 and would get a 1yd and 2 yd cut or two 1.5 yd cuts. OY!

Now, I know people tend to mean well but, I am not looking for tips or advice on these. I'm totally okay with everything not being for everybody. I knew this pattern wasn't for me which is why they hadn't made it into my stash before now. And I'm not saying "this pattern is bad" - I am saying "this pattern does not work for me".


Onward!

I am so annoyed with Simplicity and their crappy website experience. The latest release they show on the site is Early Fall but Fall catalogues are in stores. I  bought NEW patterns from Hobby Lobby!

8992 and 8989 are from the latest release

My other frustration is with the Pattern Review site. I've said it before but, the sole reason I pay for an annual membership there now is because my patterns are catalogued and starting from scratch (with 800 patterns!) does not sound like a fun idea. However, it is taking longer and longer for them to load the new releases onto the site. Now, Deepika explained before that it isn't in her control. She gets them whenever they send them. But, the summer Butterick release came out early May and it was early July before they were on the site! The Vogue's aren't there yet and it's been 2 weeks.

I'm going to start looking into another pattern cataloguing method. My annual membership just renewed in May so I have time to figure out a new system and slowwwwwlllllly :-) migrate my patterns over.

Vogue 1501 and Kommatia Patterns Relaxed Tee

Vogue 1501 is a Rachel Comey design that was pretty popular when it was first released. The dress version is super cool (though I can do without the shoulder pads!) but the skirt!!

When I made the dress, I tried the skirt on mid-way and was sold. I sewed a skirt from the same fabric is the dress immediately after then made a yellow version. When I decided this crepe from Mood needed to become a full skirt, V1501 was the immediate choice. 

This fabric! Swoon! It's a polyester crepe and with a little steam and a clapper, it takes a press pretty decently. To be a poly fabric, it handled very nicely and the print is beautifully vibrant. I would definitely recommend it!

Same as previous versions, I cut a size 18 and skipped the french seaming on the pockets. Be sure to take the time to baste the pleats!! 

And then, I got a bit ahead of myself. I cut the backs out and went right ahead and insert the zipper. Once it was time to add the waistband I had a ruh-roh! moment. 

I improvised and added an extension and a button. It isn't perfect but it works!

Aside from that, everything is finished nicely :-D

Skirt is pictured with the Kommatia patterns relaxed tee. I scored 7 patterns from the Makerist during a $2 sale. Then I had them all printed as copyshop patterns. I measured the tee before I even looked at the size chart and decided on a size medium - the chart confirms.

Then I sewed up a muslin 

The top was riding up on the hips so I sliced the side seams, as seen. On the paper pattern, I did a slash and spread on the front pattern piece and added 1/2"; on the back, 3/4". This is an extra 2.5" in the hip! Oy!  But again, as you can see, if I had gone up a size, that would have resulted in a poor fit everywhere else. 

Fabric is a sandwashed poly/Modal jersey from Cali Fabrics. I almost blew up my fast when I got this fabric and washed it up! Very nice for knit basics!

It does still have a little too much back length even though I did a cheater swayback adjustment and I could use an FBA. But also, it's a tee. I don't get too worked up at times on those types of fit issues on tees/other simple garments.

Things I like - it has a nice silhouette (I forgot to take a pic untucked, but the muslin shows it) and the rolled cuff sleeves are cute (wrong side of fabric will show).

Things I do not like - The excess fabric in the back sleeve. I'm not quite sure what to do to correct it. Also, the neck binding. It's overly complicated. However, Barbara Emodi who blogs at Sewing on the Edge *just* did a tutorial for crossover neckband and it makes SO much sense! I wish I'd seen this first but will definitely do it this way next time. Also, the neckband in the pattern is 1 to 1 but Barbara mentions needing to stretch the back - yes. Do this. Mine sits away from my neck so I'll shorten it through the center back next time. 

I did small zigzag stitching on the sleeve cuffs vs actual bartacks.

I've applied for a board member position with a local non profit organization and wore this outfit for the interview :-D

Oh, and I know you've seen that new Vogue collection. Did you swoon? Not much for you?

I, somehow both shamelessly and shamefully, added 7 to the stash! :-p

Patterns On Repeat

I'm getting behind again on reviews and wanted to get these posted.

After making the B6427 tee from the black cotton lycra, I decided I didn't like it enough for garments but it would be fine for loungewear. And I was already wearing my other B6031 nighties as often as possible...so I made two more!

The first was made with the same lace as the grey one. I had enough for the bust lace but nothing else. I added 1/2" to account for not using the lace and just sewed that seam. I cut the bottom straight and skipped the lower lace. With the grey fabric, it was SO easy to make straps from self-fabric!! For this fabric?! Oh my gosh. It drove me mad. I think I tried 3 or 4 times before quitting. I had some old straps from a long-gone strapless bra that I used.

For the all black version I had 2" black lace (the pattern calls for 1 1/2") so it's a little bit more exposed.

I used a pretty elastic lace on back and made straps using rayon challis an packaged bra slides/rings. It worked out great.

I ADORE the lace on the hem!!! I admit, the two with lace hems are my favorites <3

These have been in heavy rotation and I cannot say I won't revisit this pattern again sometime in the future. Someone mentioned a navy one and now I'm pretty sure I'll make another one if I find a nice navy knit. I have yards and yards of white lace. Some people expressed interest in a sew along so if I remake the pattern, I'll revisit the idea.

The other repeat was a black pair of S8424 leggings from the same fabric. I'd decided to do something using HTV and the Cricut. When making transfers, you have to remember to mirror the design. So I cut both leg designs mirrored. Well...pants legs are ALREADY mirrored! I only needed to mirror one. DOH!! And then, when doing the waistband, I had the unit ready to go, and installed it "backward". The stitching for the elastic is on the outside. DOH!!

I went back into Design Space and created this "Oops!" iron-on. LOL!!!! :)

No other changes were made. I REALLY like this leggings pattern!

Last, but certainly not least; on repeat is Burda mag 1/2018 sweatshirt but for my daughter, not me. 

When I made my M7688 sweatshirt, she wanted a mustard one and I ordered this fabric from Cali Fabrics. Well, this stuff is THICK. There was no way it would be made into that top. As mentioned in my review post, I had been hiding my Burda hoodie from her and one day she saw it, freaked out, and begged for one.

I got it started and my mojo went on hiatus. Plus, I didn't care for the zipper when it came (Wawak). The fabric was difficult to handle; it did not press well at all and cutting was tough on my hands so I spread it out over quite a period of time. And then I forgot she didn't want the bias binding on the hem. But I forgot to add hem allowance. And as mentioned, shortening metal zippers is a no for me. I stewed for DAYS over what to do with that hem. And then I had an ER-visit as I had a bout of vertigo (I've experienced dizziness but never THAT! It was scary!!) so more days passed. At the same time, my pants for wearing to the premier of Black Panther were sitting as well. I knew I had to finish those by Friday and decided to knock the sweatshirt first. Luckily, I found my mojo!

Lightbulb moment...self binding! The fabric wouldn't have liked being quadrupled so I basically cut a strip, serged it to the edge, turned it inside and topstitched. IT WORKED PERFECTLY! 

I also remembered to widen the pocket. I slashed and spread and added an inch. If you make this, MAKE THIS ADJUSTMENT!!!! Her pockets are so much more usable than mine.

Daughter is slim and has a short torso and LONG limbs. I knew the straight size would work but we'd have to lengthen those sleeves. And since I wished I had another inch, I added 2" to hers; 1.5" about mid-sleeve (she's long shoulder to elbow and elbow to wrist). I also added 1/2" at the hem and made the cuffs about 1/2" longer than called for in Burda's instructions.

Sleeve on me :) It is *perfect* on her!

For my version, I used a size 40. For hers I used a size 36 and graded the neck/shoulder to a 38. This worked out so well.  I bought natural twill tape which really played well with the zipper color. YAY!!

I didn't bother trying to do the hood seam the 'right way' this time either...it's fine.

And, as thick as the fabric is, the doubled fabric for the hem was fine. Go figure. 

After all the fussiness, I finished and was really impressed by it! And she LOVES it. She wore it to school Friday and said she got lots of compliments.

Hopefully, since my mojo has returned, and I don't have to work Monday, I can get going on a Clare coat muslin. I'm running out of time to get that sewn *in* February.

New Look 6314 and a modified McCall's 6886

I have maintained my Pattern Review membership primarily for managing my pattern stash. And every now and then I realize something is missing and then its 'woe is me I have to audit my entire collection now'. Since my paid membership expired, I haven't renewed, and my collection is out of control. I keep finding stuff or unfortunately, NOT finding things! Oy!! I have to either clean it up and pay for the membership or find another solution which is NOT appealing because it's well over 600 patterns. WHEW.

All that to say, I didn't know I had NL6314 in stash. LOL!

It's now OOP

I was into the shorter view with drawstring immediately and I'd found a 1 yard cut of fine French Terry in a pretty floral at Cali Fabrics. I knew I could squeeze this top from the yard of fabric even though it called for 1 1/4.

I cut a size 14 neckline and graded to a 16 for the rest, typical for me. I made a pivot and slide FBA and no other fitting adjustments.

It is NOT hi-low and it isn't riding up; I have terrible posture. TERRIBLE!

I love the length and the easy-wearing style. The neck binding went in perfectly and I like the tie - mostly. It's a pretty wide hem and then the tie is just free floating in there. I used eyelets vs buttonholes and my twill tape is a bit short; I'd bought it for something else but it matched this color perfectly.

I don't like the sleeve bands, they're kind of wimpy. I'd make them wider if I made this pattern again.

I held my breath the entire time while coverstitching that neckline! LOL!!!!

Then I wanted to use this rose-colored ponte for a coordinating dress. I wanted to use M7430 but I COULDN'T FIND IT! Blergh. I wish I'd used my recently made NL6530 neckline/collar but I tried to DIY the adjustment on M6886 and I don't love it. But I also do not love this fabric. I think I got it from SR Harris and it feels...weird. I can't explain it. It is a ponte that washed up quite nicely. It has great stretch and recovery but something is just a little off in the feel of it. I also don't love the color. I wish it were a bit more muted. Lastly, I thought about it but then forgot to adjust the armholes. I've never made this pattern without sleeves and should have raised the armhole/brought it in a bit.

So the dress is meh. Not bad, will probably get worn, but not good. And I don't like them together. I wouldn't wear dress boots with the combo though, so I did take that into account...it would definitely be a more casual/sporty pairing...

I've always made the scoop neck version of this dress. I wanted to attach a collar and traced the crew neck onto my fabric. I think this neckline is too high (other patterns with a collar seem to sit a little lower) and the collar is too big around not my neck but not big enough to slouch. And it's too tall to stand as one layer but a little too short to fold down nicely.

Pairing it with a denim jacket didn't even make me love it.

Now, I will admit that I was having a super, horrible, crappy day when I took the pics. Yes, I know I look like I'm ready to murder someone (I didn't!). So I gave it another shot and still...meh.

Top - winner. Dress - a little less so. It happens!

My mojo has been absent. I have my daughter's Burda sweatshirt cut out and will get that done this weekend. And I ordered this African print cotton (IDK if it's actual Ankara??) from Michael Levine and plan to make a fun pair of pants to pair with my new RTW/DIY Black Panther hooded top.

 

 

The HTV is "Vegas Gold" from Expressions Vinyl (affiliate link in sidebar)

The image came from Divas Craft Too on Etsy (NAYY)

I was going to make high-waist pants and a fitted tee but found this hoodie on clearance at Target for $5 and decided to go sporty. I may add carriers and a tie/belt to the pants. The drawstring on the top obscures T'Challa and must go!! :) Or someone made a great suggestion to do a Celtic knot to secure them. I gambled that these metallics would match!! We'll see!