Weekend Sewapalooza!

This post is huge. Sorry not sorry! :-p

  

Because life, I finally had a chance to exhale this past Monday and decided that I would spend Friday night and all. day. Saturday sewing. I knew I'd have to come back to reality on Sunday :) but Friday after work through early Sunday morning would be mine.

First, a pic! Then, lots of words about my process, then reviews.



WORDS

I made 5.5 things. Because people ask (all the time! LOL!), I will talk about the sew-a-palooza process :-p

1) Just me being...Me
You all know I sew fast. There's no special sauce; it just...is. I am a Project Runway fan. (I'm sure I've told this story before!) Kini Zamora was on season 13 of PR. It aired in 2014 and I'd been sewing about a year and a half. If you watched, you know that Kini would turn out his garments and be sitting back, chilling, while the rest of the designers were working. Kini sewed FAST. Now, whether or not you liked his aesthetic, you'd have to acknowledge that he did NOT sew 'throw away' designs. He sewed fast, with detail and tailoring and fit and no one knew how he did it. I started calling Kini my brother from another mother...and I stopped questioning my ability to sew fast. And stopped feeling weird over the constant comments that I must not sleep. I totally do. 8-10 hours every night. Because I am a giant toddler in so many ways! AND I don't even sew "constantly"! More on that later.

1a) By the time I start cutting something out, I have the entire construction process mapped out mentally. I know what I'm going to do, in the order I'm going to do it, and I try to be as efficient as possible. I see a lot of commentary about "rushing" whenever someone mentions fast sewing. I don't rush...I just do pretty much everything, in a direct manner. I'm not a 'faffer'...with anything.

2) Plan
This was a planned binge-sewing event. Two or three times a year (we have 2.5 seasons soooo), I make a big list of garments that I want. I do not sew exclusively from that list, nor do I necessarily finish the list...but it guides my sewing to a degree. I'd mentioned needing more summer tops, tees/knits in particular. I have a lot(!!!) of blue and black & white print tops and dresses. That's okay...those are my favorite...but I felt like I didn't have enough SUMMER! work wear and decided to focus on those things.

2a) A good plan
Knowing what my focus was for the weekend, I chose to
1) only make patterns I'd sewn before. They didn't need to be "quick to sew" patterns...but I didn't want to bother with cutting pattern tissue, fitting, etc. I wanted to sew. By using patterns I'd sewn before, I was able to get right down to business!
2) focus on knits. I needed more knit tops but also, the fabrics I wanted to sew were primarily knits. So I rolled with it!

3) Organize
I decided to start with the simplest patterns (sewn as-is). I started with the Ottobre 2/2015 tee, then the McCall's 7465 dress, then the Burda 7107 wrap top, then the McCall's 6964 tee, then the McCall's 6612 dress (not actually more difficult than anything else but I wanted to play with a sleeve idea).

3a) I am not a sewer who cares much about serger threads matching. Sometimes I do...it depends on the garment and whether there's a chance it'll be seen. Otherwise I tend to come "close". I went with gray. I used it in all 5 garments.

4) Sew!
Friday I took my daughter to the airport (she's doing study abroad in Iceland and Denmark!), came home, got all of my fabric and patterns out, washed the orange jersey and lace and started sewing around 6:30.

so much words

Saturday I woke up and got started right away, a little before 7. The Ottobre tee and McCall's dress needed binding and hemming which, my machines are a bit loud (Brother serger and coverstitch) so I tend to wait until at least 9 a.m. to use them. My sewing room is in a bedroom now and the teenaged people are in the basement. I decided to work on the Burda wrap top during the 'quiet hours'.

Once, I was chatting with Carolyn and somehow mentioned that I don't sew continuously. I get restless...so I take frequent breaks. I sewed from around 7-9, stopped to eat and watch one of my DVRd shows that I'd missed during the week. I sewed from around 10-noon, then washed my hair and watched a hilariously awful Lifetime movie. At 2:30 I started again and this time I binged. I sewed until about 9:30 stopping at one point to order pizza (mmmmm!) and eat. And again to harass my son and his friends.

Sunday morning I cut out and sewed M6612. I was able to finish it last night at about 6:30. I'd taken all the other pics on a pit stop home around 2. While taking pics of the dress it was HILARIOUS seeing the sunlight in the room change as time moved. It was seriously like, different lighting 2 minutes after taking a pic.

My errands took me near the original SR Harris location so I decided why not! I found a rayon challis that I just loved. I was able to get another TNT, McCall's 6519 cut out and sewn (shoulder seams, side seams). I hope to finish it Monday or Tuesday.

EPIC sewing weekend for me! I think I'm ready to work on my Burda trench now! :)

REVIEWS

Ottobre Tee (previously reviewed here)

I realized that last time, I put the yoke in backwards! Doh! That explains why the neckline was weird! I played around with doing a gathered overlay on the yoke but the fabric was too heavy/bouncy. I finished the top and my binding was HORRID. I ended up ripping out all of the binding Friday night and cutting/sewing new bindings on Saturday. I still don't like the sleeve bindings. IF I used this pattern again, I'd just hem the sleeves.

I added some flat piping because why not!?

Size &Adjustments: 44 with slightly widened sleeve openings (cause, biceps)

Fabric: rayon jersey in an icy blue-grey from SR Harris that is heavy enough and opaque enough that it could have been a dress.

Construction: fully constructed on the serger, hemmed with the coverstitch

I like this top and will wear it. It's the perfect blue-grey, it fits fine and is a nice length. And the shoulder yoke adds a little something extra. But I probably won't use this pattern again.

McCall's 7465 (previously reviewed here)

I LOVE the pink version and wear it but it's a little clingy! I usually wear my tricot slip with it. This Art Gallery knit was purchased FOR this pattern. I bought it right after I made the pink version which was last June! Then I hurt my hand, didn't sew for forever, and then it was almost fall and a bright floral dress didn't make sense. I've been waiting for this and it did not disappoint!

Size & Adjustments: 14 neckline/shoulder, 16 through the rest. Based on the fit of the other one, ahem, I added 5/8" to the back skirt at the side seam. Next time I'll only add that from waist through thigh.

Fabric: Art Gallery cotton lycra knit from Fabric.com. I'd purchased 1.5 yards, because it's like $18 and I knew I didn't need 2 yards...but then I had to hunt for a scrap to make binding from! LOL! And I couldn't make 'traditional' binding from those scraps so I cut a strip 1.25", sewed it to the neckline, trimmed/graded seams, then turned it to the inside and top stitched.

Construction: Constructed on the serger except for the elastic waist casing and neckline finishing, hemmed with the coverstitch.

I LOVE THIS DRESS. I love every single thing about it. Fabric? Love. Fit? Love. Length? Love. Every single bit of it! I think this pattern elevates to TNT, no? I may try one of the other views someday. You know my "I love this face"...you see it? Right?! :)

 

I even managed to (mostly) match the striped with my miniscule amount of fabric!

Burda 7107 (previously reviewed here)

I wear that green top all.the.time. All the time. I love it so much. I will definitely end up with a black version at some point.

Size & Adjustments: 42 with 1" bicep adjustment and sleeves shortened based on fabric constraints. Side seams sewn at 1/4", waist seam sewn at 1/2"

Fabric: Oatmeal colored rayon jersey from Fashion Fabrics Club.

Construction: Primarily constructed on the sewing machine. Only the side seams and sleeves were done on the serger. I left the center back seam unserged since the fabric is slightly sheer. The ties were partially hemmed on the machine, the rest (bottom all the way around) on the coverstitch.

Swoon. I love this one just as much as the green one! I see myself wearing this a ton. And I love the fabric color and it feels great on...but tissue knits are of the devil. They are right there with stretch cotton poplin and solid rayon challis. EVIL!

Exhibit A of "clearly I am feeling myself in this top"!

McCall's 6964 (previously sewn in 2015 and reviewed on the old blog)

I talked about wanting a couple 'fancy' tees here. And when I found that orange lace at The Sewing Lounge, I could not wait for this to happen!!

 Size & Adjustments: 14 neckline, 16 for the rest. 1" Full bicep adjustment.

Fabric: Wool jersey from Fabric Mart, lace from The Sewing Lounge in St. Paul.

Construction: I tried on one of my other versions of this and decided where the front lace 'yoke' should be. I marked it on the pattern and cut out full fronts and backs and partial yokes (extending about 1" below the line I wanted). I attached the lace to the right side with a zig-zag and then cut away the main fabric. I used my duckbill Ginghers (best purchase ever!) to trim the lace. The binding was also done by machine.

If you mind your markings...

...and sew slowly, things should work out!!

(my neckline looked better (here) before I chose to coverstitch it...but it kept wanting to flip up!)

I think I was most excited about this tee. Maybe more than the Art Gallery print dress. I know that orange (and coral! and yellow!) really, really work for my skin tone so I could not wait. I love it, I adore it, it's awesome, none of that seems to actually sum it up! Perfect wardrobe addition.

I was watching Girlfriends while taking pics and that is a real, geniuine laugh there! LOL

McCall's 6612 (previously sewn here)

I really like both prior versions and wanted a new dress, in a print, for summer. Now, I know this print doesn't read "summer" as it's a little dark...but I thought the colors were nice and different from other things in my wardrobe currently. I saw this dress online and decided to copy the open sleeves with ties at end. SUMMER! LOL!

I realize now that the sleeves really work here because they're loose and blousy

and the bodice is loose and blousy.

No, I did not purposely match the darker 'stripes' on body/sleeves.

It's pretty close though. WIN!

Size & Adjustments: 14 neck/shoulders, 16 bust/waist, 18 hip. Lengthened 2",  1" bicep adjustment, sleeves shortened to 3/4 length and slit with tie closure.

I traced a new sleeve, slit it down the center, slightly curved it through the middle of the sleeve, and added back the seam allowance. I sewed the first 6" of the sleeve and hemmed it the rest of the way. I cut 3" strips of fabric so the bands and ties finished at about 1 1/4".

Fabric: Fabric Mart precut. I'd passed on this one before; I didn't like the striping/chevron much until I saw a dress made from it on Pattern Review. The next time precuts went on sale, I bought it!

Construction: Back neckline is hemmed and shoulder seam sewn on the sewing machine. Side seams and sleeve side seam serged. Slit and tie bands constructed on sewing machine. Sleeve serged to dress...hemmed on the coverstitch.

I was very torn when I had the body constructed. I was going to leave it sleeveless. But then decided it would be limited by the print. I would likely on pair it with black or denim toppers. I pinned the sleeve in place and liked it on the dress form so I decided to move forward. When I first finished it I was torn again! I toyed around with lots of other options for the sleeve (adding another tie just above the elbow, closing it up more, closing it all the way but just leave the tie at the end).

In an effort to ensure it wasn't gaping open (too snug), I actually made the sleeve too big. So it's a bit too loose at the cuff to close the rest of the sleeve (I pinned it and it would look odd) and there was NO WAY I was going to undo all the stitching from adding the lower band/tie to take in the sleeve seam. I do not dislike it! I'm just not sure it works as well as I hoped it would.

I've decided I have to wear it to really assess how I feel about the sleeve.

You're STILL here?! Either you love sewing talk as much as I do or you're just a gluton for punishment! :-p

Now of course, I've sewn these summer things and we're supposed to have rain and cloudy weather this whole week! Good grief!

Until later...

Burda 6659 and Butterick 6427; Loungewear post 2 of 2

I had B6427 in the stash and planned to compare it to the Dixie DIY Summer Concert Tee. I was unsure about this type of tee on my frame and never proceeded.

Well, I love it!

I used a size medium with a small for the neckline (it's SO low and wide!) and this black cotton-lycra jersey knit from Fabric Mart. It was a Sue's Pick I believe, by Maggy London, and I bought 6 yards! After sewing this top I realized I wouldn't like it as much for actual garments. It's thick and attracts lint like some crazy, deranged lint magnet! But for loungewear, it's fine. I plant to make another S8424 legging from this fabric.

I decided to make this my first Cricut HTV (heat transfer vinyl) project!!! I have a couple of official Cricut posts coming soon (early February and early March). I plan to do a tutorial on making heat transfers for tees so watch for that in a few weeks!

One of my favorite phrases is being 'unable to adult' :) If you're familiar with the show 'black-ish', the oldest kid from the show is now off to college and has a spin off called 'grown-ish'; my tee is an ode!

This, not surprisingly, was constructed entirely on the serger and coverstitch. Easy. Peasy.

I like the hi-low hem and the side slits. The sleeve bands are a bit snug for my forearms; I'd increase them a bit (probably to the equivalent of a large).

The neck binding on S8424 was perfect, this one was a little too long and I have a wavy neckline in front (and yes, I used the right size!!). Luckily, it's loungewear. My next iteration will be out of fabric that's more lightweight so I will likely need to size that down a bit.

The joggers! I had these in stash for DD and the 3/2014 issue of the magazine has a very similar pattern. I decided cutting this out as the lazier option over tracing from the mag :)

I used a size 44 on the blue pair and cut down to a 42 for the star pair. I shortened the front rise 3/4" and lengthened the back 1". While I love when there are multiple rows of elastic in patterns like this, I hate doing the work!

I decided on eyelets (because I am the eyelet queen now!) instead of buttonholes. I interfaced the area but must've cut it open too much. I've since found that with knits I just need to take the awl firmly through it and immediately place the eyelet; I don't need to cut them open. When they were finished and I went to try them on, I pulled the twill tape and ripped the eyelet right out on one side! I did a hack job replacing it AND they aren't even. DOH!

On the star pair, I felt the thicker french terry would be REALLY be a joy (/sarcasm) to thread two rows of elastic through and decided on a ponte waistband in black. I also narrowed the ankle just a tad, cut the leg band down to a size 40, and attached it with a 3/8" seam instead of 5/8". I love them!!!!

 

I don't need more joggers right now but once I wear these out I'd definitely use this pattern again.

Fabric for both pair of joggers came from Fashion Fabrics club. The blue is a lightweight french terry (beautiful! drape) and the star fabric is heavier. This kind of fabric was my first experience with french terry and made me say I hate this fabric. I'd made M6884 and absolutely hated that loopy wrong side. I don't mind it as much in joggers but probably wouldn't look for this heavier terry again. The lightweight version? LOVELY!!!

I've ordered from Fashion Fabrics Club off and on. The biggest deterrent, aside from their outdated website, is I hate that I can't use PayPal. It isn't even a security concern just that I hate having to actually pull out my card. LOL!!! So sad.

In this order I'd gotten both of these French terry fabrics, double knit for my hoodie (coming soon!), the denim knit used in the s8424 top, 3 T-shirt knits (white, ivory and cream), a black t-shirt knit and an apricot colored lightweight French terry. I did not receive the last two items.

I received a notice with my order that the apricot fabric had sold out. I asked about notification of sold out items and was told I have to ask to be notified at checkout. Sigh. Whatever. Okay, give me a refund. I did not receive the black t-shirt knit. I notified them on 12/20, had to ask again on 12/22, and it was 1/2 before I realized I never received the refund on the black knit. I was NOT HAPPY and they were going to be off the list. (I went 3+ years without ordering from Fabric.com because of screw ups). HOWEVER, all of the fabrics I received were pretty much amazing. And their pricing was so good, that I will give them another shot.

I have worn these items NON STOP! :)

I've said a million times before that "my colors" are blue, black and grey. Uhmm...yep! LOL!

Simplicity 8424 leggings and tee reviewed here

Simplicity 8424; Loungewear post 1 of 2

When this pattern came out I wanted every single piece. EVERY PIECE! I wanted to make this for a fall loungewear wardrobe but then I sprained my hand (which, 6 months later, isn't fully healed but is better).

I started with the leggings with the ties, in this grey cotton knit from Fashion Fabrics Club. This is the only pic with the ties because I promptly removed them. Actually, I pulled them really tight and snipped them right off on the outside. Can't even tell!

They were ridiculous to put on each time and they are too wide which makes them too thick. Plus, I have thick calves and they were too short to wrap as instructed but too long to skip a go-round. Meh. I wouldn't add them again. The tie waist felt too bulky as well. I left that one and may use it again, but under normal length tees it's too bulky.

Review on the top to come! :)

 The leggings pattern itself is decent. Like most Big4, it seems to not get the fact that they should taper from thigh to knee and back out at the calf! LOL! But a little fitting solved that. After fitting the first pair on the serger, I shaped the legs of the pattern pieces.

I used a size Large (18-20) with is typical sizing for me with Big4. I usually cut my woven pants in a size 18, so I found that consistent.

The waistband is finished by zig-zagging elastic on the inside waistband, and then attaching the waistband as a unit. This is my favorite way to finish casual/athletic wear pull-on pants.

The tank is really short and I got lazy about lengthening the pattern pieces and just skipped it. Plus it's hard to consider sewing a tank in the dead of MN winter. The wrap top was reviewed by a blogger and she gave the top an "okay".  That prompted a closer look at the pattern and I decided to pass on the wrap top.

The hi-low top is really cute and made better by this SUPER COZY heavy jersey knit fabric. It has a "denim look" and I honestly was convinced that the light side was the right side...and then when I went to put a pattern piece on my dress form, I wasn't so sure anymore. So I decided it didn't matter! #asewersperogative. I added interest by using the other side for the neck binding, a visible CF seam (so the dark side shows)  and displaying the looper thread on the hems.

I really love this top! I used a size medium neckline, shoulder (which is also the upper sleeve) and a L for the rest.

Review on the joggers to come!

I've been taking photos randomly since they were finished but hey...it's everything! LOL!

Tomorrow I will post my review of Burda 6659 and Butterick 6427!

He's such a baby :-p

Burda 6659 and Butterick 6427 reviewed here

COLOR! McCalls 6996 and Vogue 1501

Not until I posted the Burda dress did I realize I've been sewing up a storm. I have so much free time on my hands now -- 4 days a week my 17 year old works until 9:30 -- that I've been barely sewing on my weekends and still cranking stuff out. That's how the denim dress came to be; it was supposed to be a slow project after I'd finished up these 2 items! Sigh. LOL!

The yellow crepe. It's BRIGHT. It's soft and spongey but still lightweight...and I was excited to sew up my new fave, V1501, using it.

I kind of love how it looks like culottes because of the front pleat.

Using an exposed zipper is the only change I made from the last time.



I got it all finished (well, mostly...taking these pics, I realized I didn't stitch the facing to the zipper tape!) and tried it on, loved it, spun around...ERRR. I could see clear through the back! The front pleats conceal the lack of opacity but in the back, my entire life was on display!

See how clearly you can see my blue top?

So in these photos I am wearing my RTW slip in "nude" (totally not *MY* nude...:sideeye:). But I don't want to have to wear a slip with a summer skirt :( I could line it I suppose...But still, same issue! Wah, wah, wah. Woe is me.

We shall see.

Because I am obviously hooked on color right now, I decided I needed a bright cardigan and know that M6996 is a winner for me. Dare I say, as a cardigan, I like it more than 6844! I think this pattern works amazingly well with jersey knits/lightweight sweater knits and 6844 with ponte/heavier knits, making it more jacket-like.

Yes, I am wearing a random assortment of colors...but I am often minding my business and then think, "It's Daylight! I should take photos of *that thing* now!"

I used view A, the shorter length, with peplum in back.

I got this 1.5 yard cut in a Fabric Mart bundle. I cut it very close on yardage. Whew. I've made this a few times before, and on this one I ended up sewing ease stitching on the collar seam line, leaving both ends open. After I gathered it, I went back and sewed the remainder of the seam in each direction. This is the cleanest this detail has ever turned out for me!

I also added an extra 1" to the bicep. No other changes though from previous versions (size Medium, narrow shoulder adjustment). The narrow hemming isn't the most fun thing ever, but I love the fit of this cardigan so much, I just suck it up and do it.


Lastly, I got both of these finished, went to hang them up, and noticed a stain on the back of the skirt and a stain on the front of the cardigan!

SERIOUSLY!?

I treated both and put a load in the washer, including them. The stain on the cardigan came out (it came to me stained, like something (some sort of beverage??) spilled on it). The stain on the skirt did not come out but did fade a little. It is on the wrong side and is a faint purple. I can only see it when I'm looking at it up close.

Next time: 2 fails. Yes, I knew it was coming; I've been too ecstatic lately with my makes :-p

Also, at the time of writing this draft, I mentioned moving on to sewing a few pairs of pajama bottoms (PJ = Loungewear for me). But 1) There are new Simplicity patterns and I want like ev.ery.thing! in this pattern:

2) I have more tops I want to sew! :-P

Obviously the first two are more 'play': NL 6507 and S8385. The last two can be work or play! M6752 and S8337.

We shall see!