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Tuesday, May 23, 2017

Closet Case Nettie + Vogue 1501 Skirt

You didn't happen to remember that in my last post I said come back Monday for the Nettie review, did you?? :)  It has rained for like 5 days straight here! Cloudy and overcast and gloomy so I couldn't get photos...and these are just okay.



Pattern Description:

The Nettie is a quick and easy to make wardrobe staple. Close fitting with high cut arms, she can be made into a knit dress OR a bodysuit. This pattern is infinitely customizable with a choice of 3 sleeve lengths, 2 neckline and 3 back variations.

Go modest with a bateau neckline or show off some skin with a scoop neck and low back version. The bodysuit variation has a low cut bum to prevent annoying panty lines, along with an optional snap crotch so you don’t have to get naked to use the ladies’ room. The leg and neck openings are finished with the same stretch fabric you’ll use to make the bodice, so this is a budget conscious project – you don’t need any extra notions unless you’re adding crotch snaps or a shelf bra.


Pattern Sizing:
2-18; 32" to 44" bust / 25" to 37" waist / 34" to 46" hip. I used a 14 front neckline and 16 for the rest.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Well there are tons of options as mentioned in the description. I went with a high neck (I swear I thought I traced off the scoop) and high back.

The cut will eliminate any panty lines but mehhhhhh I don't like it. 
It shouldn't matter because it'll always be under other clothing.

I really liked the color and texture of the fabric and wanted the back work appropriate.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. However, I'm not one that needs hand-holding and I find that a lot of Indie pattern instructions annoy me. Sorry but true! I'm just not a fan of the conversational tone and paragraphs upon paragraphs of info.

Now, it's better than Style Arc for example, who might have 3 sentences!

The pictorials and such are good.

I DID NOT LIKE THE TILE LAYOUT. Blerrrrrrgh. The layout shows a 5x5 grid with the short length horizontal. But the pages print in an order that you lay them out vertically. I've never had to stop and think about how to tile a PDF. I've never had to take a break from a 25 page PDF. So that was a bit annoying.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
It's a bodysuit! What's not to love!? Personally, I was ecstatic to see bodysuits make a comeback. I'd love a woven button front with knit bodysuit bottom. No untucked shirts!? Though I rarely tuck my shirts...but still!

I don't like the cut on the leg. I knew I wouldn't like it generally but I really don't like it on me. I want to try the new McCalls pattern to see if I prefer a brief cut. I'm not a huge fan of the finish on the crotch. IDK if or how the ends can be finished better, I just felt like it was fiddly. I used a polka-dot shirting to finish mine off :)

I basted in place by hand before sewing


Fabric Used:
Jacquard jersey knit with 4 way stretch from FM. It stretches about the same amount in both directions. I don't have a percent stretch...it stretches enough!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made my binding wider. A little too wide...The pattern has 1.5" strips and I went up to 2 1/8". Would do 1 7/8" next time. The binding will finish at 3/8" with the pattern measurement (which would actually be a tiny bit less with turn of cloth). I find this ok for the legs but too puny for a neckline.


You can also see the texture nicely in this photo!

When I looked up the chart for the binding I was all...okay, cool. Then there was a note that the leg bindings are 85% and neckline 90%. Normally, I ignore binding lengths and measure my neckline / make a judgment on the amount of stretch in my fabric. I have never(!), ever cut a binding at 90% of the opening. So YMMV on that.

After constructing, I ended up removing 1/2" from the legs tapering to nothing at the crotch flap (hahahaha).

I would definitely set snaps or buy some snap tape for future makes. I didn't enjoy sewing on 3 sets of snaps. I will make a hefty bicep adjustment. I considered a pivot/slide for more bust room but I like it snug and I think the scoop would look better and take some of the focus off of the bust. Full bust + high necklines = meh most of the time.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would! I really like the concept and there are so many ways to personalize it.  I tried this on with a ton of things in my closet...they don't necessarily match the teal, but the idea of bodysuit + skirt or pants (wide legs!) etc made me happy. I'd love to find a nice cotton/lycra and make one in black and one in white with mid-scoop back and short sleeves. Would be awesome for summer.

The pattern is drafted for a height of 5'6". I'm 5'5" but I have a short torso. I find it to be a little long BUT IMO that means I can make it with a fabric that may not have as much vertical stretch. I can fold out a little (like 5/8") for stretchier fabrics.  

And this goes together FAST! Yes, that is a relative term and I know I'm a speed-demon (I'm like that in every facet of my life...much to my mother's chagrin)...but using a serger it's zip, zip, zip! I only used my machine to topstitch the sleeve hems and attach the fabric for the snap area.


Question:
I know I need to do a full bicep adjustment, do you think the shoulder is just too narrow (a problem I NEVER have) or that the bicep is too snug causing it to pull? I found myself pulling it "out" at the shoulders while wearing.

And, as promised, Vogue 1501 as a skirt! Nothing to add here...it's exactly the same as the dress, fabric and all :)

If you look at the photo directly above you'll see I'm pretty straight through the hips. I appreciate the "bump" at the hips from the volume in this skirt! I think you'd be hard pressed to find a black woman complaining about something making their hips or butt look bigger! :-p Bring it on! lol!!!

I did have a mishap wherein I serged a hole in my skirt back finishing the side seams. WAH. I whined about it, noted there was a tiny hole on the seam line in front (interfaced the area, fraychecked, and sewed just outside of it when I redid it), unpicked it, cut a new skirt back, sewed the darts, reattached it (I didn't undo the pocket and was just very careful about attaching the new skirt back to the pocket) all in 30 minutes!



Oh wait! There is a difference...My labels! <3



I sewed it to the facing before the facing was attached, stitching down the short sides.

<3

I ~LOVE~ this outfit!! So even though spring refuses to show up and STAY here, I'm going to keep cranking out pretty things that scream spring!