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Tuesday, May 23, 2017

Closet Case Nettie + Vogue 1501 Skirt

You didn't happen to remember that in my last post I said come back Monday for the Nettie review, did you?? :)  It has rained for like 5 days straight here! Cloudy and overcast and gloomy so I couldn't get photos...and these are just okay.



Pattern Description:

The Nettie is a quick and easy to make wardrobe staple. Close fitting with high cut arms, she can be made into a knit dress OR a bodysuit. This pattern is infinitely customizable with a choice of 3 sleeve lengths, 2 neckline and 3 back variations.

Go modest with a bateau neckline or show off some skin with a scoop neck and low back version. The bodysuit variation has a low cut bum to prevent annoying panty lines, along with an optional snap crotch so you don’t have to get naked to use the ladies’ room. The leg and neck openings are finished with the same stretch fabric you’ll use to make the bodice, so this is a budget conscious project – you don’t need any extra notions unless you’re adding crotch snaps or a shelf bra.


Pattern Sizing:
2-18; 32" to 44" bust / 25" to 37" waist / 34" to 46" hip. I used a 14 front neckline and 16 for the rest.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Well there are tons of options as mentioned in the description. I went with a high neck (I swear I thought I traced off the scoop) and high back.

The cut will eliminate any panty lines but mehhhhhh I don't like it. 
It shouldn't matter because it'll always be under other clothing.

I really liked the color and texture of the fabric and wanted the back work appropriate.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. However, I'm not one that needs hand-holding and I find that a lot of Indie pattern instructions annoy me. Sorry but true! I'm just not a fan of the conversational tone and paragraphs upon paragraphs of info.

Now, it's better than Style Arc for example, who might have 3 sentences!

The pictorials and such are good.

I DID NOT LIKE THE TILE LAYOUT. Blerrrrrrgh. The layout shows a 5x5 grid with the short length horizontal. But the pages print in an order that you lay them out vertically. I've never had to stop and think about how to tile a PDF. I've never had to take a break from a 25 page PDF. So that was a bit annoying.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
It's a bodysuit! What's not to love!? Personally, I was ecstatic to see bodysuits make a comeback. I'd love a woven button front with knit bodysuit bottom. No untucked shirts!? Though I rarely tuck my shirts...but still!

I don't like the cut on the leg. I knew I wouldn't like it generally but I really don't like it on me. I want to try the new McCalls pattern to see if I prefer a brief cut. I'm not a huge fan of the finish on the crotch. IDK if or how the ends can be finished better, I just felt like it was fiddly. I used a polka-dot shirting to finish mine off :)

I basted in place by hand before sewing


Fabric Used:
Jacquard jersey knit with 4 way stretch from FM. It stretches about the same amount in both directions. I don't have a percent stretch...it stretches enough!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made my binding wider. A little too wide...The pattern has 1.5" strips and I went up to 2 1/8". Would do 1 7/8" next time. The binding will finish at 3/8" with the pattern measurement (which would actually be a tiny bit less with turn of cloth). I find this ok for the legs but too puny for a neckline.


You can also see the texture nicely in this photo!

When I looked up the chart for the binding I was all...okay, cool. Then there was a note that the leg bindings are 85% and neckline 90%. Normally, I ignore binding lengths and measure my neckline / make a judgment on the amount of stretch in my fabric. I have never(!), ever cut a binding at 90% of the opening. So YMMV on that.

After constructing, I ended up removing 1/2" from the legs tapering to nothing at the crotch flap (hahahaha).

I would definitely set snaps or buy some snap tape for future makes. I didn't enjoy sewing on 3 sets of snaps. I will make a hefty bicep adjustment. I considered a pivot/slide for more bust room but I like it snug and I think the scoop would look better and take some of the focus off of the bust. Full bust + high necklines = meh most of the time.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would! I really like the concept and there are so many ways to personalize it.  I tried this on with a ton of things in my closet...they don't necessarily match the teal, but the idea of bodysuit + skirt or pants (wide legs!) etc made me happy. I'd love to find a nice cotton/lycra and make one in black and one in white with mid-scoop back and short sleeves. Would be awesome for summer.

The pattern is drafted for a height of 5'6". I'm 5'5" but I have a short torso. I find it to be a little long BUT IMO that means I can make it with a fabric that may not have as much vertical stretch. I can fold out a little (like 5/8") for stretchier fabrics.  

And this goes together FAST! Yes, that is a relative term and I know I'm a speed-demon (I'm like that in every facet of my life...much to my mother's chagrin)...but using a serger it's zip, zip, zip! I only used my machine to topstitch the sleeve hems and attach the fabric for the snap area.


Question:
I know I need to do a full bicep adjustment, do you think the shoulder is just too narrow (a problem I NEVER have) or that the bicep is too snug causing it to pull? I found myself pulling it "out" at the shoulders while wearing.

And, as promised, Vogue 1501 as a skirt! Nothing to add here...it's exactly the same as the dress, fabric and all :)

If you look at the photo directly above you'll see I'm pretty straight through the hips. I appreciate the "bump" at the hips from the volume in this skirt! I think you'd be hard pressed to find a black woman complaining about something making their hips or butt look bigger! :-p Bring it on! lol!!!

I did have a mishap wherein I serged a hole in my skirt back finishing the side seams. WAH. I whined about it, noted there was a tiny hole on the seam line in front (interfaced the area, fraychecked, and sewed just outside of it when I redid it), unpicked it, cut a new skirt back, sewed the darts, reattached it (I didn't undo the pocket and was just very careful about attaching the new skirt back to the pocket) all in 30 minutes!



Oh wait! There is a difference...My labels! <3



I sewed it to the facing before the facing was attached, stitching down the short sides.

<3

I ~LOVE~ this outfit!! So even though spring refuses to show up and STAY here, I'm going to keep cranking out pretty things that scream spring!


34 comments:

  1. I actually OWN a pattern for a woven button-front body with a knit bottom! E-mail me and I will very happily share (calathea.uk at gmail). :D

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  2. This is a great color and such a fun knit. I'm loving the comeback of bodysuits too! I'm hate bunchy fabric around my middle, so I never tuck. But man, bodysuits make for such a clean look. I haven't tried this pattern, but I did use Heather's method for the snaps for the lining of my Jalie Bella dress and I thought the same thing about the finish. It doesn't look bad, it's just a little fiddly. I used twill tape on a lace version of the hacked Jalie bodysuit, and I tried out one of Kommatia patterns' bodysuits (the back cowl) just to see what the difference in finishing was...I like it a whole lot better. Basically the edges get folded back on themselves with a little bit of interfacing to give the snaps a chance.

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    1. A bit fiddly, right!? I may have just bought 2 cuts of fabric to make more bodysuits so perhaps I'll play around with finishing!

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  3. Great outfit. I don't know if the shoulders are too small or just drafted narrow. I have the same 'issue' with my versions for my daughter. She seems pretty standard size by through the shoulders.

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    1. Thanks!! I think I'll add a little bit to the shoulder next time.

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  4. That jacquard knit is great for the body suit, love the colour and texture, skirt print is fun too!

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  5. I'm glad you had enough fabric to recut the back - cause the trauma! ;) And you're right don't know to many black women who complain about their ass-ets! This is a cute outfit and looks great on you...and you kow summer is coming so you'll be ready for it when it finally shows up!

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    1. Thank you AND for the moral support! I was in crisis! I thought I was going to cry tears!!! :)

      Yes, it has to arrive, doesn't?! Whew!

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  6. Your Nettie and skirt look awesome together! I remember having LOTS of bodysuits as a young girl, so it is neat to see them making a resurgence. Very nice job on both pieces!

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  7. Nice outfit, you look great. :) What McCall's pattern are you referring to?

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  8. It's a nice outfit. I like the fabric and the neckline looks ok with that necklace, but yes bewbs and high neck is not good. I don't like the legs - so dated in my book, but no-one will see (well maybe they will be we don't have to know). Good save on the skirt... and I wore bodysuits when I was 30 so that dates me!

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    1. Thank you!

      Yes, I have to just tell myself that no one will see the weird leg shape but me :)

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  9. I echo everyone's comments. This is a very nice outfit!

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    1. Thanks much L! Miss you around the interwebs! :hug:

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    2. *hug* Aww, thank you. I've had the busiest semester ever and only recently started to sew again. In my mind, I see a blog post showing updates. Reality though... =)

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  10. Love the outfit. The texture of the bodysuit material is awesome. And that floral skirt! <3 Love it!

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    1. Thanks Andie! I LOVE THIS OUTFIT!

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  11. woohooo! Looking good girl! Love it! Have you tried printing the file at your local print shop on a roll? I printed a pattern from the Thread Theory (the Belvedere Waistcoat for my hubby) and the equivalent of 25 pages cost me $10 (including taxes). I haven't shop around, but I'm sure I can lower the cost of printing the roll.

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    1. Thanks Raquel!

      I have been meaning to look into it but don't buy a ton of PDFs.

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  12. What a gorgeous color and outfit. I ALWAYS have to narrow shoulders on patterns, and thie Nettie was narrow on me. I ended up putting the Renfrew top on the N tie bottom, which was a war m layering piece in the winter

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    1. Thanks! I am in agreement with everyone that it's a narrow draft. Will have to extend the shoulder seam...will compare it to M6886 perhaps. I love how that fits through the neck/shoulder.

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  13. Great ensemble! I love the colors. As for the shoulders, it looks like the pattern drafted the shoulders quite narrow so that is why you feel that pulling.

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    1. Thanks Tomasa! I'm thinking that's the case and will extend it on the next two versions that I may or may not have bought fabric for today! :)

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    2. I made a Nettie - had the exact same thought - that the shoulders were too narrow.

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  14. So, so pretty! I used to love bodysuits too, and made several back in the 1990's. Haven't worn one in years, yours has got me considering another go.

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  15. The body suit does give a nice line under your skirt. Never worn one before (and I was around during the first time around). I think I would get annoyed at having to unsnap the crotch every time I went to the toilet.

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  16. Did you use a 4 way stretch fabric for the bodysuit. I have had the bodysuit for a year now. I took it to the printer and got it printed out. Still haven't cut it because I thought I need it four way stretch fabric which I don't have much. BUT I love bodysuits.. always have always will. Skirt is pretty

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    1. This fabric does stretch almost equally in both directions. But I have a short torso and found it to be kind of long and think I could get away with something slightly less stretchy...but it would still need SOME vertical stretch or else it's going to pull.

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Your comments are appreciated! I will always respond to questions and try to respond to each and every comment!