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Showing posts with label lingerie sewing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lingerie sewing. Show all posts

Thursday, April 2, 2020

March Wrap-up and April Plans

This month I sewed 11 items and a total of 17.5 yards.

  • Burda 7/2019 dress - 2 yards (WADDER)
    • black textured cotton sateen from stash
    • zipper
  • Simplicity 8694 top - 2 yards (for my daughter)
    • pink ponte
    • trim and cording
  • Burda 11/2019 baby sweater - .25 yards (gift)
    • pink ponte
    • zipper
  • McCall's 7975 top - 1.25 yards
    • blue rayon jersey from stash
  • Burda 12/2016 pants - 2 yards
    • navy ponte
    • zipper
  • McCall's 7476 cardigan - 2 yards
    • cream and grey ribbed sweater knit
    • button
  • Simplicity 2245 top - 1.25 yards
    • yellow swiss dot cotton
    • buttons
  • Burda 2/2020 dress - 2 yards
    • black/grey suiting from stash
    • buttons
  • McCall's 7976 top - 1.25 yards
    • poly crepe
    • buttons
  • McCall's 7547 pants - 1.5 yards
    • yellow cotton twill
    • zipper, button
  • Burda 12/2016 pants - 2 yards (WIP)
    • camel wool blend suiting
    • zipper
  • Simplicity 8228 - negligible
    • stretch mesh
Favorite: The Burda pinafore style dress from the 2/2020 issue. I LOVE IT! It turned out so nicely and I cannot wait to wear it!

FAILS: My attempts to fit the Burda 7/2019 raglan dress were for naught. I think fabric was definitely an exacerbating issue but it just didn't work. I have some crepe that I plan to use for another go because I really like the shape of this dress on me!  That Simplicity bra pattern. Meh.

Accomplishments: Perseverance. I tried and tried to make the Burda dress work. That top for my daughter was a NIGHTMARE to make in ponte (intended for lt wt. wovens) but I kept going. I absolutely did not have enough fabric for M7976 AND that fabric was a hot mess to work with and yet...I love the top from it! I had to 'make it work' with the yellow jeans but again - I made it!

AND...I FINALLY FIXED MY BLAZER VENT! I am working through the hand sewing. My hand has been bothering me a lot lately. Likely because I've been sewing so much (e.g., cutting out patterns is a strain)

I didn't make it to starting my husband's blazer so I will push that to fall now. By the time life returns to normal, he won't really need a corduroy blazer.  :(

I will also push the black jacket/cardigan that I planned. It's a wool double knit and will be too warm once we're back to normal activities.


I did not have high expectations of this pattern. I remember when Madalynne first started selling patterns and such and people raved. I often saw 1) bras that did not fit HER well and 2) poorly fit bras on her workshop participants. 

I was willing to take the risk with a $2 pattern. I had some stretch laces in the stash but decided to muslin (of course). I made sure the stretch of my mesh was appropriate. Before cutting the pattern out, I noticed the fit of this version on her on the envelope and again, IT DOESN'T FIT HER!


There was mixed info about the sizing in reviews so I went ahead and followed the pattern instructions for measuring and choosing a size.  Well...I can't show a pic of the bra on me and I had to cut myself out of it once I did manage to wrangle it on. Meh. Moving on!
the upper left was sewn in February...but the rest were garments I sewed in March.

I did some gift sewing:

For this baby sweater, I cut out the letter M on my Cricut and used the tiniest zig-zag to attach it. 
I did a crappy job attaching the lower band but I tried not to let it bother me because I know only a sewer would even begin to notice that it wasn't sewn evenly :)

This month, I bought some fabric from Mood. I've blown through my fabric budget I set for 2020. But since 2020 is just determined to be difficult, I have to be over that "fail". 

I bought the wool suiting that I neeeeeded to copy that LOFT jacket using the blazer from Burda 2/2020 and there was a Rag & Bone sale (and I had a coupon code!) so I got an excellent deal on everything; the wool fabric, and some serious yardage of black crepe. I have had a time trying to find a nice weighty crepe for pants and jumpsuits so I bought 5 yards of it! And 3 yards of the same fabric in an inky blue color. NO REGERTS! :-p

I bought 8 patterns this month. A few of the new McCall's, a few of the new Vogues, a couple older patterns that were on my wishlist, and I bought the Style Arc Clare pattern below. I was on the fence because I felt certain I could find something similar in Burda mag, but I also really like Style Arc's drafting, there was a sale, and with that and the free pattern that's offered monthly, I scored the pants and a skirt for under $6. 
For April, looks like we'll still be indoors. I pulled out my spring clothes and mayyyyy not need more pants. LOL! At least not for spring. I forgot about the awesome deals I scored at Ann Taylor and LOFT last year. I will, however, need some for summer and have a couple pair of breezy pants on the list - the Clare and Simplicity 8389. Those will be pushed a bit (to May perhaps?).

This month, I want to sew:

M7925 dress in a cotton/rayon voile
M6754 dress in a floral knit
S2246 dress (maybe) in a striped knit
Burda 10/2017 or S8843 (I need to look at the shape of the pattern pieces of both) in a black cotton twill as my Q1 outerwear project (slightly behind!)
M8028 jumpsuit in a distressed knit
B5526 shirt in white cotton shirting w/silk organza accents

But I am still in a 'whichever way the wind blows' place. I am working on the camel Burda pants but after 4 in-depth projects I think it's time for something easy!! So I think the knit dresses may jump the line. I will probably sew them back-to-back since my serger and coverstitch thread choices will be the same for both (the background is navy on both).

As always, hope you're staying safe, sane and healthy <3

Sunday, March 17, 2019

The Wadder: McCall's 7722

Like me, you've probably seen a ton of versions of this pattern in the sewing-sphere. I've had my eye on it for awhile and was SUPER excited to make it.

I had this (affiliate link) very cool animal print (snow leopard?) lightweight sweater knit. But I only had a yard!! When I bought the fabric I intended on replicating an old NL6230 top that I really like but the neckline is too wide and the binding is atrocious :) I wear it ALL the time. And then, I decided M7722 would be perfect! But I only had ONE YARD.

I cut a size 14 and did my normal cheater FBA. I did not have enough fabric for the full upper sleeve. And once I got the pattern pieces cut out and realized how long it was, I decided to shorten it. And I laid everything out and huzzah! I could fit the pattern pieces on the 1yard. I folded the edges in toward the center *just enough* to cut the front and back. After I cut those pieces I was able to fold the remaining yardage in half and cut the sleeves. The sleeve pattern piece is pretty wide as it's gathered on top and bottom...but I made it work!


I did not enjoy making the top with all the gathering. So much gathering!!!!! And while the black wool knit (that I used on B6621) was a good match in stretch and recovery, it was quite a bit thinner. I cut the lower bands double - placed the hemline on the fold of the pattern. I sewed the long edge and then folded it over...like any other sleeve band but just extra long.

I finished and thought it was *SO* cute.

And then I tried it on. Nope, nope, nope. And as mentioned, there are no suggestions needed for "trying to make it work". It doesn't and it isn't deserving of more time and I know I won't wear it as is. Into the donation pile it goes.


The combo of ALL THE VOLUME on top and super slim fitting on the bottom, I just do not like it. 


I tried to. I love the print. I would say it could be about an inch longer...


Soooo yeah, 34DDD + wide sleeves at the exact same level = nooooo thank you. I still think it's a cute pattern and love that it HAS worked for so many. Maybe I'll keep it in the collection in case I ever make it to getting a reduction :-p

I also wanted to quickly review the Evie La Luve Frankie panty. I've never had a huge interest in sewing undies or bras and almost every time I sew a knit I think, "how on earth are people using the same fabric to sew underwear?!?!" Now, maybe I just buy super thin ones?? LOL! But I made a couple pair in cotton/lycra jersey and will probably mostly stick to making lace undies should I continue down this path.


This pattern had really good reviews, looked most similar in cut to my favorite RTW bikini cut briefs, and I liked the variations. Well, while I can see doing a decorative elastic strap on the back, I can't imagine doing it with rings and sliders. Seems like it would be uncomfortable!

My hips measure into the XXL (~43"). I was skeptical though looking at the pattern pieces and cut an XL. I made a muslin and made the following changes to the pattern:

*Added 1/2" to the back pattern piece - yes, this puts the hip measurement into the XXL sizing. BUT, I needed it in back and not in front. Which makes sense with having to do a full butt adjustment on almost everything.
*In that same vein, I added a little more butt coverage in back. I did this as a curved line, with nothing at the side seam and nothing at the crotch seam, I added about 1/2". It worked very well and provides just the right amount of coverage for a round bottom.
*Added 3/8" to the center front tapering to nothing at the side seam. They seemed to dip a bit in the muslin.
*Narrowed the crotch width 3/8" (so 3/4" total!) I swear, every swimsuit pattern I've ever tried has SUPER wide crotch widths and I knew as soon as I traced this one off that it would be too wide.

I made this pair and they are almost *exactly* the same as my fave VS cotton undies.

from my IG stories :)

I used lingerie elastic at the waist and 3/8" swimsuit elastic in the legs (it was what I had on hand!). I made a 2nd pair and was using braided elastic in the legs and way, way too stiff. I will have to rip that out and either just hem the legs on my coverstitch or use some of my newly acquired lingerie elastic.

I bought a bunch of laces so I will try a few more pair. But don't see myself fully on this bandwagon any time soon (after I purchased like 40 yards of lingerie elastics and a whole bunch of lace! LOL!!)

I have spent many, many, many parts of many days trying to re-learn casting on and basic stockinette stitch. Goodness gracious! But I am knitting a swatch now! Woohoo!!!

I can knit about 2 rows then I have to take a break. Hmm, maybe I should make that baby hat a size bigger :-p