Tuesday, May 18, 2021

Burda 4/2019 - More than a year later!

I sewed this jacket April of 2020, and then, there was no need for it. I've been getting a lot of usage from it this spring, and figured I'd better write a review while I have SOME of the details still pinging around in my brain. 

I've sewn 5 or 6 garments from the 4/2019 issue - it is really a winner! I wanted a casual jacket in a black that had some interesting details. It took me awhile to settle but this jacket has such great details while still being relatively simple in construction. And, the modeled pic really sold me. 

I used a size 42 and added an extra inch to the back hip via a slash and spread. I can't remember now if I made any adjustments in sewing seam allowances smaller or larger - sorry. But, I will say that a 42 bust and waist and 44 hip is typical for me with Burda patterns! 

I purchased this black cotton twill from Mood last March for about $25 for the 2.5 yard cut. I'd previously ordered swatches of black cotton twill and then got sucked in by a Rag & Bone sale. DOH! This fabric was much stiffer than the one I originally settled on, and it attracts so much lint. Sighhhhh. I washed it a couple times and have washed the jacket. It'll soften up eventually I suppose. 

Ultimately, I really enjoyed sewing this. Topstitching was such a breeze on this fabric! 


Since the pattern contained a collar stand, I decided to add a throat latch of sorts, purely for decorative reasons. There's no way I'll ever buckle this, LOL! But it was a fun detail to include. I believe the storm flap is lined with pongee poly lining, the remainder of the jacket is unlined, with the seams serged.

lint. lint. more lint.

I used the pocket from Burda 2/2016 #127 (a plus sized jacket pattern). It is essentially a really long rectangle with a soft fold at the top. I used packaged bias tape for the strap detail - I ironed it flat (the ironed side is on the inside since it was tough to really get that crease out), topstitched it, and used D-rings to finish it off. 

Idk what that white stuff is so just look at my top stitching!

I am a huge fan of three-quarter length sleeves, so these were right up my alley. The button and tab are decorative. 

Speaking of buttons! Do you recall when Fabric Mart had all of those notions from Milly and other buttons and stuff on the site? I paid $0.53 for 20 buttons! SCORE! The buttonhole required was too large for my Singer Quantum Stylist 9985 but, I don't remember how I solved it. I know I performed some type of workaround...and skipped the not-necessary buttonholes on the tabs here. 


Like many other things, it fits a little more snug now, but I've been wearing it non-stop this spring!


I'm still looking for larger D-rings for the belt. If I'd planned ahead, I could have made the belt a little narrower to accommodate what I had on hand. 

I still have ALL of the same WIPs as I did in my last post (are they UFOs now??), but I did sew both M7465 and B6621 as mentioned, along with two versions of a newer pattern, S9273. Hey, its just how things go around here! I did a Live on Instagram with Cecily of Sew Creative Lounge and the topic of my erratic sewing came up :-p Give it a listen if you're into that sort of thing! 

B6621 - since completed

I've been mostly participating in Me Made May but not posting regularly. Here are a few faves!

S9273 top worn for a trip to Gale Woods Farm in Minnetrista, MN, and a virtual graduation party
M6964 tee worn for a 10 mile e-bike ride around Hastings, MN 
Burda 1/2021 cardigan/jacket just because it's CUTE
S9011 dress worn for Mother's Day
Burda 1/2021 top worn for an interview
Burda 1/2021 because it is truly one of my most favorite garments made recently and I LOVE it!

(Yes, Burda 1/2021 over and over! There are still garments I need to make from that issue!)

I have a few posts scheduled (YAY!) to review:
Burda 5/2020 silk top
S9273 tees
B6621 and M7465 dresses

And before we know it, it'll be June (HOW?!)! More later!

Saturday, May 1, 2021

April Wrap-up and May Sewing Plans

This month, I sewed 6 items for a total of 7 3/4 yards, almost all from stash

I sewed:

  • Burda 6/2018 jacket (WIP) - 1.75 yards
    • striped cotton boucle from Fabric Mart 
    • brass jacket zipper, brass snaps
  • McCall's 7542 top (WADDER) - 1.5 yards
    • cotton shirting in solid pink and black & white stripe from SR Harris and Fabric Mart
    • no notions used due to being a wadder
  • Burda 5/2019 dress (WIP) - 1.5 yards
    • print poly woven 
    • zipper
  • Butterick 5760 skirt (WIP) - 1 yard
    • green wool boucle
    • zipper
  • Burda 5/2020 top - 1 yard
    • chartreuse silk georgette from SR Harris
    • covered button
  • Butterick 5760 skirt  (WIP) - 1 yard
    • navy cotton lace
    • zipper

Favorite: Hard to say since I have multiple WIPs. I'm going to go with the Burda top right now. The color is so pretty and, SILK! 

Fail: The McCall's top and not just because it didn't work out. I liked the idea in theory but it was just too much contrast for me. 

Accomplishment: I didn't go too far out of the box this month. 

I am going to be promo'ing the Paprika Patterns Nautilus swimsuit and popped into SR Harris for swimsuit lining and found a very interesting cotton woven in the designer section. It feels incredible, we'll see how it washes up. I got 3 yards due to it being just 44" wide. I also bought 1 Simplicity pattern and 1 Butterick at recent sales. There are a few McCall's from the new release that I plan to add to stash at the next sale! I am also ready to cull a few more - we will see.

May Plans

Me Made May

I have almost always participated in MMM. I will just pop in my standard message - it is NOT about pictures or "showing off". If you feel some turn it into that well...that's their path. It really is about being encouraged to wear our handmade garments (proudly!). It isn't about making a bunch of new stuff to wear. It isn't about a closet full of handmade garments. It is self-designed and the parameters are up to you. 

As someone who has a lot of handmade garments, I've set various challenges over the years. This year, I am taking it back to the basics. I will plan to wear a handmade garment every day. Appropriate for Covid times, where I've given up on getting dressed most days. 

Other plans

Now that I've created a plethora of WIPs, I will plan to get them finished :)

  • Burda 6/2018 jacket needs lining constructed and bagged
  • Butterick 5760 v1 needs hem finished and v2 is in very early stages
  • Burda 5/2019 dress needs side seams finished, facings sewn, and hems

applique scissors are a MUST for laces - buy some!!!



I'm also planning to stick with this fly by the seat of my pants sewing, for now. I will be swapping out my closet this weekend, so I will have a better idea of what I need for the warmer months, soon. But, it's May in MN which means, wild weather swings e.g., today it is 64 low/81 high...on Tuesday there'll be a low of 39 and high of 57.

I am realizing I really don't need pants :/ I like sewing pants! LOL! I really scored at Ann Taylor and LOFT the last couple of shopping trips (e.g., wool blend trousers for $15.88, casual pants for <$9), so we will see!

For now, I'm thinking that in order to (finally!) finish those WIPs, I'll probably need some breather work in between. 

I'm thinking:

McCall's 7920 for that white fabric I mentioned above. I like the longer version but with 3 yards of 44" fabric, it may not be possible. We will see!! 


McCall's 7465 and Butterick 6621, both TNTs, in a solid color. I really want the Butterick twist-front dress in this navy jersey, I just have to make sure it isn't too heavy for that pattern (I don't want the front to be bulky). Otherwise, I'll use the navy for the McCall's and the Butterick in a taupe-y jersey. 

More later!