A New Jacket, Just in Time for Summer? Simplicity 2508

At the beginning of March, we got dumped with a huge pile of snow (like nearly a foot!). I'd been complaining about my black wool coat being too big. I'd ordered a couple different coats online and none of them fit well, plus, the fabrics were subpar. 

On its maiden voyage to my office

I decided to use a pattern that I've made before (coincidentally, in March, but in 2015!) to make it easier on myself and to make it quickly (I did not make it quickly). As these things go, I started the coat on March 5 and finished it on April 20th. 

2015 version in pink wool blend from Hancock Fabrics ( :tears: )

I decided to use a camel-colored wool from stash (that came from a woman in my machine knitting group), brown buttons from stash, and champagne-colored rayon lining from stash (a Ralph Lauren Fabric Mart find for $1.99/yd in 2019!). I LOVE THESE KINDS OF PROJECTS!

From my previous version:

• Size 16 (44.5" finished bust; I am around 39.5")
• Adjustments; sewed 1/2" seams on front princess and side seams
• 100% wool coating in magenta from Hancock Fabrics
• 100% polyester pongee lining fabric in baby pink from FabricMart
• Bound buttonholes tutorials by Iconic Patterns and Julia Bobbin.
• Bagging the lining tutorial by Grainline Studios
• (Need: small FBA, shift bust point down 1", lengthen sleeve 1/2", raise pockets 3/4-1", back facing)

This time;

• size 16
• I initially used smaller seam allowance and had to resew them all to 5/8"
• 100% wool coating from stash
• 100% rayon lining in champagne tan from Fabric Mart
• Regular buttonholes with buttons from Fabric Mart
• Bagged the lining using Cecelia Podolak's 'Easy Guide to Sewing Jackets' book
• I did not need an FBA, I did shift the bust point down 1", I did not lengthen the sleeve and should have, I did not raise the pockets and should have!, I did add a back facing. And, I lowered the back tab on this version.

In preparing to sew this jacket, I read my own review and a bunch of other reviews. SO many people complained about pattern errors and I was all, "I don't remember having any issues last time..."

Ha! Well, inexperienced sewer me probably didn't have any issues. This pattern has A LOT of errors. Notches that didn't line up, an error in drafting the straight collar (which I didn't catch until it was assembled), the lack of a back facing is insane, I think there were more. Grr. 

By March 7th, I had the pockets inserted and princess seams sewn, realizing I should have moved the pockets up. I only had 7 of these buttons and there were supposed to be 5 on the front and 2 on the collar, so I decided I didn't have enough for the sleeve bands. With the collar error, I could have done the button bands. I think the sleeves look better with them!!!

By March 12th, I had the shell constructed and ruh-roh, this is too big. I took all the seams from 1/2" to 5/8". And, WHY is the back band so high?! I think it's a notch error. 

March 22nd, I realize the collar is wrong. I'm super annoyed but not enough to recut the thing (do I even have enough fabric to do so?!).

I lazily drafted a facing and topstitched it down instead of doing it the "right way" because it's a raglan. It would have crossed part of the front sleeve, part of the back sleeve, and the back. 

It must have bothered me more than I realized because it was April 17th before I returned to working on the jacket. But, it's ready for buttonholes!

The buttonholes needed are too big. Sigh. I can do it. I can do manual buttonholes. I watched a Threads video, mimicked the settings used, and, success! 

April 20th, my finished coat, ready for wear (I am contemplating topstitching the collar). And oops, I moved that back band down a little bit TOO far :)

I think I wore it 3 times before the weather changed. Ah well, there's always next year! 

Some nightgowns (Burda 5/2016 & 1/2016)

We've all read it (or said it!): Sewing is therapy. 

I needed to sew. I also knew my focus was nil. I'd been working on the Lisette vest and trouser pattern from Butterick, but no way could I go back to that. I was about to have houseguests for 2-3 weeks and decided I'd make some nightgowns since I'd be required to actually sleep in clothing (TMI LOL!). 

Burda 5/2016:

Way back in 2016, I used this dress pattern from spring issue of Burda, to make a nightgown (https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/125146). My fabric was a very lightweight cotton or linen knit and it's still my favorite nightgown! The pattern is 5/2016 #113 (there's a top version as well). It's an A-line shape with an inverted front pleat and braided straps. 

I was using a lightweight french terry and thought the three layers of fabric might be too heavy, so I instead used some plain white rayon knit to make binding. I cut a size 40 neckline and armhole and graded out to a 42 for the rest. I did not add hem allowance (both adjustments are standard for me with Burda mag). I did not make any adjustments to the pattern to account for binding instead of hemming. 

I cut the binding at 1 7/8" and attached with a 3/8" seam allowance on the sewing machine. I topstitched with the coverstitch. Sewed the side seams, hemmed it, DONE! 

It's my second favorite night gown :)

Then, I made another one! But this fabric is a rayon blend, super drapey, and it is NOT my favorite.

The only difference from the yellow one is that I cut three narrow strips and braided them to make the straps. I cut it on the cross grain and it is still extremely limp and stretchy. The easiest adjustment I can think to make is to just cut off the straps and maybe use a plain black knit sewn into tube (like the yellow one). 

Burda 1/2016 #105:

A dear friend sent me a giftcard to Fabric Mart and I bought a piece of lightweight french terry for another gown! Why did I decide to switch it up? Because we just like to be difficult, don't we? 

This tank top pattern from Burda gave the same vibe but with more stable straps/shoulders. I cut a size 40/42 as outlined above and added no hem allowance. But, I made the mistake of largely just tracing down from the waist to lengthen it. Err. That's not going to work! It's snug through the hips :( And while it otherwise is very comfy (it's not uncomfortable to sleep in), I just don't wear it nearly as much as the two favorites from the 5/2016 pattern. 

The inset is cool and presents an opportunity to add interest. I used a lighter part of the tie-dye fabric here, did a face binding (at least that's what I think it's called! I stitched a strip of fabric to the front, turned it to the inside, and coverstitched in place), and did a rolled edge on the inset with my serger. I used a matching thread and edge stitched the inset in place. It's so cute!! 

You see how it's snug on Lily's hips? Sigh!!!! 

Sewing WIP - Style Arc Alexi

I wanted a fitted, zip-front turtleneck and spent a long time thinking about how to do it. I was super over-complicating it. Finally, it dawned on me that a 1/4 zip fleece is basically the same concept, and I found a pictorial which was exactly what I was thinking. Doh.

I had to search high and low for my printed copy of this pattern. I KNEW I'd printed it, but could not find it anywhere.  I'd given up and went into the spare room I'm using as an office, intending to print another copy. Ah! There's another bin in this closet! It was right on top - YAY! 

I haven't sewn a Style Arc pattern in a long time and was a little disappointed when I saw that the size 14 was printed. I've always used a size 12 on top with them and thought I'd have to reprint it (spoiler alert - the 14 is the right size!). It took FOREVER to assemble it - an entire Dateline episode! - and I was really annoyed that the front and back were full pattern pieces - aka a waste of paper. 

I traced everything off, made a 1" bicep adjustment on the sleeve, and called it a night. And then I couldn't find the traced collar piece! BLEH!

This morning, I got started on cutting everything out. I knew the collar as drafted was too tall for what I wanted. In a softer jersey, it would double fold or puddle around the neck nicely, but I was using this firm ribbed knit and inserting a zipper. I decided on a 3" height and then, for some unknown reason, changed it to 4". Sigh. You know where this is going, right? 3 inches would have been perfect. 

I have a lovely, full stash of zippers and this 11" brass zipper with cream tape was perfect. I only wish I'd double-checked the collar height once I had it cut out because I could have shifted it down an inch, easily. 

I marked the center line on the pattern front and fused a 1 1/8" wide strip of tricot interfacing to the wrong side. Cut it down the center and angled to the corners (like with welt pockets), and used Wonder tape to hold it all in place. The zipper insertion went FLAWLESSLY!

The collar scrunches down because 4" is a tad too tall :( but it's still cute!! I need to topstitch the zipper and then I'll be ready to get the rest sewn up. 

I recently finished a dress from the same fabric and I adore it. This fabric was a Fabric Mart find this spring at $3.99 a yard (I snagged 4 yards). There's easily another top worth - ha! Hopefully I can model them, soon.

Here is my recently finished knit sweater :-D

I've also been knitting some gifts and can't wait to share them. Here is a pair of fingerless mitts I snuck in for myself, using the same yarn from my State Fair socks :-D

I knew it would be a close call and yet I was determined to make foldover cuffs. I knitted the first one completely and started the second one. I got to row 72 (of 104) and ran out of yarn. So I frogged them, counted up the total number of rows knitted (because I needed thumbs, too!) and adjusted my pattern. I would have had *just* enough of the patterned yarn to do them in full, but I like the contrast ribbing too :)

Speaking of those socks...I bought a shadow box to frame the socks and my ribbons. Right now, I'm just checking the layout, but I love it! Can't wait to get this mounted. 

I want to sew my blue pants, but also pants with zippers are a real no-no right now. I'm not sure if it's worth spending my energy there, if I can't fit them properly. Maybe I'll give it a bit longer. I wore real pants today to run a few errands and my incisions were very angry with me. oy!

There are a couple of skirts I'd like to sew and a couple of tops, too. I go back to work on the 19th and those first two weeks back will be 3-day weeks (WHEW!) so, I may be able to eek out a couple more garments before the year ends.

OH MY GOSH I CANNOT BELIEVE IT IS ALMOST 2023!!!!

McCall's 6436

Lots of stuff happening and most recently, some major surgery. I'm recovering quite well and have a finished object to share! Not on my person because I am not presentable! But, Lily is me so you can see how well the fit is on this shirt. 

I bought this cotton/rayon blend shirting from Fabric Mart in the spring to make a casual shirt (it washed up so nicely, I ordered 4 more yards to make a jumpsuit). I really did intend to make something with a yoke and back pleat for a casual style, but looking through my stash, McCall's 6436 spoke to me.

It has several pocket options, epaulettes, a 2-piece sleeve and cup sizing. It should be labeled a tunic because it is LONG!!!

M6436

I cut a size 16 A/B cup. I fit the pattern on my Beatrice form and made the following adjustments:

• shortened 1.25" between the waist and hip
• narrowed shoulder 3/8"
• lowered bust dart 1/2"
• added 1" to neckline opening and adjusted collar and stand to match (I have a large neck! But this was a tad bit too much. I added 1/4" to front and back. Next time I'll add 1/4" to back and 1/8" to front for a total of 3/4")
• 3/8" high round back adjustment
• sewed back seam of sleeve at 3/8" through the bicep

It has vertical back darts and shaped side seams but manages to not be super fitted. 

I usually cut pattern pieces out as I need them, especially if I am not worried about being short on fabric. I chose the inverted pleat pocket with flap and cut out the pocket pieces and front piece. I cut out the button bands and interfaced them. I marked the seam allowance of the inside edge at 5/8" and then trimmed it down before pressing it. (This fabric took every marking tool extremely well! Wax chalk, Frixion pens, my disappearing ink pen, wax paper...it was all good. I did use tailors tacks in a few key places.)

The next day, I cut out the back piece and sewed the darts, and shoulder seams. I also started the sleeves by cutting out and interfacing the cuffs.

Next, I cut the sleeve pieces out, and constructed one sleeve. I also sewed the side seams and hemmed it (by serging and doing a double turned 5/8" hem). The following day, I constructed the second sleeve and cut out and sewed the collar. 

The collarstand and collar construction was the last thing I did! LOL!!! It's so tedious but so critical to get it right! 

I made my markings after interfacing the stand to be sure everything matched up - I always draw in the stitching line along the curved edge. I also mark and press up the seam allowance of the interior stand. Another good tip - sometimes less is more when it comes to grading. It is critical not to trim things down too much or it's hard to fold it all up neatly inside. 

Next up was sleeve insertion. This fabric washed well, pressed amazingly well, took markings well, topstitched nicely...it DID NOT want to be eased! Oy! Now, this sleeve doesn't have a ton of ease which is nice, but the top portion does need easing in and it took a little work and restitching to get them in nicely.

I only had 9 of these buttons but they were really the right choice...so I used a different button on the sleeve cuffs. Shhhhh. No one will know!

I am really happy to have this in my wardrobe!! The fabric is fluid enough that it can be tucked, it can be tied, it can be worn open or closed. I'm very happy with it!

My current  knitting WIP is a drop shoulder sweater with a bit of fair isle on the sleeves. 

 

A Couple of Birthday Dresses!

I almost always make a new dress to wear on my birthday each year. For 2022, I was seeing a musical production of Twelve Angry Men, and I wanted to have a "special" day dress and something for the show. 

I went to a recent make, M7834 for the day dress. When I finished the paisley version, I knew I'd be making it in this cotton clip dot from SR Harris, and leaving it sleeveless. It's such a cute pattern and I loved how the original turned out. 

I made no changes other than narrowing the shoulder as I mentioned in the last post, but I should have! I've said it myself a thousand times, FABRIC CHANGES FIT! The first one was made in a heavier rayon challis with beautiful drape. This cotton one pulls a bit at the bust. 

A woman stopped to tell me I looked very pretty, and that she's inspired to get a white summer dress now. 
yes! yes! yes!!

And the pretty blue purse I treated myself to as an early birthday gift! 

It turned out pretty-ok and I loved wearing it! I started the day with a trip to my favorite bakery for a pastry and a latte, then I went and got the Benz shined up! :) Afterwards, I worked that day until about 2 or 3 and started to get ready for dinner and the show.

For evening, I sewed Burda 7/2022 #106. I know I've gained some weight, it was endo-belly time, and this dress is fitted. So I traced a 42 neckline and armholes and a 44 for the rest. I should have known better but I was short on time. I ended up having to blind stitch the surplice down in front because it was huge and gaping. I am a 42 on top in Burda with the waist graded to a 44. Doh. The ties were tied really tight, too! LOL!

I used this rayon challis that I got when I visited SR Harris back in 2018. I sewed the side seams a little larger through the bust, did not add hem allowance on the skirt but hemmed at 5/8", and tacked down the front as mentioned. 

Since the fabric and lining (cotton voile) are so lightweight, I used the "trick" learned some time ago and trimmed 1/8" from the neckline edges in lieu of understitching. It works well when both fabric are very light and takes a press well. 

I don't know what point the surplice serves though as it has a side zipper. I think it would work fine as a v-neck. 

Speaking of...I've read lots of "fear" type things about side zippers, but it was easy peasy! I tacked the bodice lining to the waist seam by hand.

And it has twirl factor!! Woot! 

I just spent 3 days at a machine knitting camp and it was AWESOME! I'm going to do a separate write-up for that.

McCall's 6744 - Everything Comes Back Around

I first made this patter about 6 months after learning to sew, in 2013. Last summer I revisited it - HERE and, it's just a winner for me! :)

I really love it!

Just like in my most recent version, I cut a size medium, added 1" to the back bodice at the waist and on the back skirt from the waist, tapering to nothing about midway down the thigh. The front neckline is cut as a size small but the rest is a medium. I didn't want the maxi length but knew the shorter length was too short. I decided to add 4" to the shorter length and hemmed at 5/8".  I also shortened the bodice 1" in back and at the side seams, tapering to nothing in the front. On my last version I had some pooling in back, this adjustment corrected that.

A much neater fit through the back!

The fabric is a Fabric Mart find that I planned on making a wrap dress with it due to the print...but I really just, do.not.like. true wraps. I don't know quite why that is. 

I know someone commented that the print was tough on the eyes. I just love the colors so much, and it doesn't do too much "waviness" for me, on screen or in person, though I get that it happens.

 

I wore it immediately and can see it getting tons and tons of use this summer. Everything about it is perfect to me!! 

My yellow blouse is in time out because that silk crepe de chine refused to be managed. Even with starching it (which has worked well for the poly wovens I've used). 

This is a WIP of version #2 of Burda 4/2019. This pattern is just SO COOL. I worked on it this weekend and just need to stitch down the facings at the zipper. I love how it turned out. 

QT in the Sewing Room and a Hot Topic

My parents relocated to Georgia almost 15 years ago, my son and daughter live out of state too. Mother's Day then gets a little difficult for me. And this weekend, my husband had a motorcycle training course that was from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. both days. So I decided it was perfect timing for a sew day. 

On Thursday and Friday, I did some pattern prep and cut out Vogue 1250 and McCall's 8174. I got up early Saturday, really pumped, and started my pattern adjustments. I took a break around noon, went and got lunch, and took a break for awhile once my husband got back. Got back at it and finished up the McCall's dress, then cut out another version of M6744. 

This morning, I was moving quite a bit slower :) I finished M6744. Here are the 3 finished dresses and a top from V1250

top left: SAS fabrics

the others are Fabric Mart

I was ready to cut out my yellow silk for a top from Burda 5/2017, and realized I didn't have enough fabric. Womp. Womp. I always forget silk is typically 45". So I traced off a top version of V1250 since I liked the cowl so much. 

I have plans to make pants from this fabric 
which is why I got so excited about a top from this pattern!

And I was not doing hair and makeup (or bras - sorry, not sorry) while having sew-day so I have quick and dirty shots as each garment was completed.

And I'm ECSTATIC about them all! 

Can we talk about disliking finished garments? People often talk about not seeing enough posts about when things don't work out. But, often, when someone posts something and explains why it's a fail, people jump in to tell them that it isn't. I get the instinct to reassure...but can we just take the sewer's word that it truly is a fail? 

My husband says I react because I am very keen on saying exactly what I mean -- words mean things. If I say, I'm not sure about it or I don't know, but something seems off...that means it might work out if I can figure it out. When I post something and I say, I do not like this. That is exactly, precisely what I mean! LOL! 

I posted the New Look dress and had comments on IG and here on the blog that I was "being hard on myself" / "self-critical". Now, this is not any kind of attack on those posters, again, I get the instinct to jump in with helpful comments. But it was interesting to me that I never once said anything about ME; I said I don't like the dress. Not that I felt bad. Not that I looked bad. Again, nothing negative about myself, but for some reason, that's how it was interpreted (and this happens all the time, it isn't a one-off).

There ARE times when something goes wrong and I'm bummed about it. And, I'm pretty open about that. But I am also 100% okay with sewing projects not working out. I'm not going to force myself to keep something or to wear something that I know I dislike / am uncomfortable in just because I made it! Remember in my last post I mentioned donating those black trousers because honestly, I just don't like them. There is absolutely nothing wrong with them...they're a heavier cotton blend, they're slim and ankle length, they fit; but I don't like them. I have lots and lots and lots(!) of clothes. The occasional fail doesn't knock me down, and I don't need those fails cluttering my closet. 

Do you share your fails publicly? 

A Dozen Drafts: New Look 6600

I hate this dress.

I don't hate the pattern...or the brand, just the dress. 

This is a true wrap dress that would work well with a drapey linen or voile. This rayon challis-like fabric did not have enough structure. I was worried about something too firm with the fit of the skirt, but the drape of this fabric made every part of sewing it a horrible experience. 

I started with a size 16, 18 at the waist and hip. I made my half muslin and compared to the McCall's and Simplicity, the starting point was great! On the right, you'll notice I made a point of where I thought my shoulder was...but you'll see in the photos below that I was WRONG. My shoulder point is a good 3/4" away from where I thought it was on the form. This explains why the couple McCall's I made since getting the Beatrice were still wide in the shoulder. Huzzah!

Front:
1/4" armhole tuck
shortened 1" at waist

Back:
shortened 1" at waist
added 3/8" to neckline at shoulder
added 1/8" to shoulder at neck

(should have done the high round back adjustment)

I shortened the pattern 6 inches, ideal length for me would have been about 2" shorter. After stitching, I ended up taking in the side seams another 3/8". Typically with skirts, I cut a 16 front and 18 back. Also, I didn't use the facings and bound the armholes. I stitched a 1/4" guide for my bias tape (cut at 1 1/8") and then trimmed it down, turned in and topstitched.

I just couldn't get good pics, I was so over it. LOL!

Aside from my posture being worse than Lily's, it's cool to see  how the garments are the same 

on me and the form!

I really need to start adjusting for my low left shoulder.

I'm going to be so sad when these cord stops are all used up. 

They were a great addition to my stash! One of those one-off Fabric Mart finds.

I feel that the fitting process with this pattern demonstrated my ease working with New Look patterns in the past. I do feel that I should have draped the dart as it isn't quite right (same with the back skirt darts), so that's something to keep in mind. 

I'll continue to snag the NL patterns I'm interested in as they're a good fit for my body. 

some fabrics I pulled while organizing my sewing space

The mustard print and solid blue are woven, all others are knits

Fabric Mart | LA Finch x2 | SR Harris

LA Finch | Fabric Mart | SAS Fabrics | Fabric Mart

As mentioned in my abruptly ended wrap-up post, I have sewing mojo but am lacking energy. I cut out Vogue 1250 (an oldie but goodie!) and McCall's 8174 today in preparation for some sewing this weekend. I'm also hoping I get to a top from the yellow silk charmeuse I got at Fancy Tiger Crafts, as well as turning that yellow tie-dye into another nightgown using Burda 5/2016 (THIS nightgown is my absolute fave and it is now 6 years old...time for another).