New Look 6507

This pattern entered the stash almost immediately after it was released. Pattern Review tells me I added it to my pattern stash on June 2, 2017. And then mid-June I bought a fun border print cotton lawn from SR Harris...but I couldn't work out how to use the print with the flounces and put it away. And then I hurt my hand and didn't sew for nearly 2 months. Well by then it was near September + Tundra = No More Summer Dresses. :)

When I ordered this rayon challis from FM (in this colorway and a blue & green), I knew immediately that I'd be making a version of this pattern! And then I decided it was cute enough to be a birthday day dress.

headed to birthday brunch!

My sewing room still isn't fully set up since the move but I figured it is such a simple dress, it'd be no sweat! Oy vey. Moving around boxes and bags and what not is not easy! Especially in an already small space!

As one might expect, this pattern is pretty simple and straightforward and relatively quick to sew.

I used the size Medium (I normally use a medium on top and large on bottom in s/m/l patterns). I did a pivot and slide FBA adding 3/4". I added a center back seam and did a 5/8" swayback adjustment, and I added 1/2" through the back hip.

I used my new (awesome!) rolled hem foot to hem the flounces. Since they have some bias in them, you may end up with wavy edges. Just line it up carefully on the ironing board and press it with a good bit of steam and then do not touch it. Let it sit until it cools. The underarm is finished with self-bias tape and then the flounce is attached right side to wrong side of the dress. Flip it out and stitch for the casing. HATED. HATED. HATED. I am not sure how else to achieve this but it was SO bulky and I had to open it up at the seams to get the elastic through.

 

I understitched the bodice front and back before flipping out the flounce and topstitching the casing

I sewed the side seams and didn't like it as much as I'd hoped. I also felt that the fabric was kind of blah. I liked it more on my table than on my body! Behold, crappy nighttime cell phone pics:

I took a ton of pics and realized it was too boxy on me...

I'm holding the excess fabric in...yes! It needs to be taken in!

 

I took it in about 1/4" at all 3 vertical seams, just through the waist:

 

 

There was something still off for me and I was beginning to get discouraged. I hadn't rushed it all; I started it on July 2 and finished it on the morning of the 6th. And I felt it *should* work, darn it! :)

 

In the pic below I have it tucked up under the flounce, about 2". THAT'S IT! It was too long. I knew I didn't want to go too short because of the giant flounce but *just* above the knee is usually ideal for me.

I also removed about 3" from the recommended elastic length. I was much happier with the fit after making these changes!

I didn't have enough fabric to match the print (I thought I'd have to settle for just one flounce) but I did make sure the motif was at least in the correct position horizontally through the side and CB seam. The CB seam actually matched fairly well for me to not have given it a thought. #birthdaymagic

Shortening it also allowed me to fix this weird side seam issue. It was only on the left side...I'm not sure if I did that while hemming or if it was cut slightly off grain. I removed a total of 1 3/4"in length, and another 1/2" at that wonky side seam.

 I had a FABULOUS birthday! I was still munching on 4th of July bbq'd meats...mmmmm! I had chocolate mousse filled chocolate cake with strawberries (my absolute fave!). I went to brunch and saw Ant Man and then took a road trip to Chicago to see Hamilton!! I made a dress for the show as well and hope to get full photos and get it reviewed too!

The Big 3-9! :-D

(ignore my house full of unpacked boxes! :-p )

 

 
I really enjoyed wearing this dress and the rayon challis in this fun, bright print kept me cool and comfy all day!

Finished: McCall's 7465

I didn't know I needed this pattern until I saw Margo's version! Do NOT be surprised if you see multiple iterations of this one over here!

This is so my style!

Pattern Description:

Pullover dress with close-fitting skirt has neckline, sleeve and skirt variations. A, B: Batwing sleeves and cowl neckline. C, D: Short dolman sleeves and scoop neckline. A, D: Ruching on one side of skirt.

Pattern Sizing:

6-14, 14-22. I used a 14/16, as per usual.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes! <3

Were the instructions easy to follow?

They were, although I sewed the simpler version. I didn't review the instructions for the ruched view.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love the fit, the cut-on sleeves, the blousing, the length (I used the longer skirt)...It's so simple but so much impact!

I disliked the neck binding. WAY too long and too wide. I did make mine narrower but would go down another 1/8".

Fabric Used:

Rayon jersey from FM (one of the precuts) in magenta

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I cut a 14 through the neck and shoulder and a 16 for the rest. Normally I would cut a 14 armhole, but this is a cut on sleeve and I have large biceps so I went with the 16. Also, I almost cut the 18 skirt but this is meant to be fitted and I didn't want to chance it being droopy.

*I figured this was a good place to add this...

A comment asked about the skirt pattern pieces. The skirt uses the same front and back piece. I almost traced off a 16 front and 18 back, what I would do normally for a fitted skirt. I JUST recalled that I DID add 1/2" to the side seam on the back piece, because my butt.

THANK YOU Chabe for your question!

The pattern piece is shaped though.

As mentioned, I narrowed the neck binding somewhat.

An all-in-one pic!

Double turned and topstitched hem: Even though it's fitted I didn't see the need for the stretch of a twin-needle finish. 

Neckline binding with my label :-D : Of the 3 labels I ordered from Dutch Label Shop, I am thinking this one is my favorite. FYI there are 5 days left to use the code sewcraftychemist for a 15% discount.

Elastic waist finish: I can't remember now what they instructed but with knits I alway serge first, then stitch at the seam allowance, leaving an opening. After threading the elastic through, I close up the opening and distribute the elastic.

Hem

Armholes

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Oh yes and OH YES! :) If you didn't scoop this one up, you should. 

You can see my binding lifting away from my neck a bit. That's because it was SUPER DUPER EXTRA LONG!!!! Measure your neck opening and decide what length you need based on the stretch of your fabric.

This is what I normally do; I pretty much never use binding pieces in patterns. Blergh.

But I still love it though! And I love the color!!!

Also finished, because I didn't start on my Burda dress this weekend, is M6996 (I decided I needed a bright cardigan and I adore coral) and V1501 (because I went to trace the Burda dress and saw bright yellow fabric and squealed out loud and so, yeah! :-p

Up soon!

Custom Labels and Friday Miscellany

First...Eeek! I finally got custom labels!!!!

Abby from Dutch Label Shop had contacted me previously about reviewing their custom woven labels. I had way too much going on and never even responded (oops!). When she followed up with me last week, I was definitely interested.

You've probably heard of Dutch Label Shop by now and have seen their products in blogland and on IG. I've started a couple of labels myself over the past few months but could never decide on the "right" label and this time, I still couldn't. So I ended up designing 3 different labels!

There's a few different offerings in their shop and plenty of room for personalization. For the basic woven labels:

• 3 sizes available
• Up to 3 lines of text which can be aligned left, right or centered
• 19 label colors
• 23 text colors including 4 sparkly options(!)
• Notification of your label and text don't have enough contrast
• 51 (I think) font options
• A plethora of symbol options!
• You can also choose sew on or iron on

Some of the extras do come with a fee, about 4 cents per label each (e.g, adding a symbol, choosing sparkly text) and the iron-on labels are more expensive than sew-on. The display label updates in real-time as you make changes.

I placed my order on 5/10, received a shipping notice on 5/15 and received them on 5/18. They are really nice! They're a nice size, the stitching is clean and the colors are vibrant.

I just think this font type, the sparkle and the needle just go with my blog name! :)

I like this basic label. I also think it can work vertically if needed. On this one, I went with the double white background option. This is suggested when you are using white background with dark text.

I actually completed this one first and was TOO excited to see that glittery gold was an option! 

I also ordered some stock labels, the Made in USA, in black and lime green. I didn't get as many of the lime ones and I do prefer the black. I think the contrast between the bright lime and white text don't work that well together. The text isn't as easy to make out.

I intend to use these for things I may not want a label in, like pj pants (of which I still need!), but need to distinguish front from back easily. 

I am pretty happy with my labels and glad I finally 'bit the bullet'. 

Dutch Label Shop  is offering you all a 15% discount on your purchase. The discount is available for the next 30 days, using the code sewcraftychemist15

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What's Friday without a little randomness?

Gifted Apparel NYC just continues to get my money. This is my 3rd purchase from them. And I totally want the "IDK & IDC" sweatshirt!

Wilson the cat is so adorable right??! <3

I'm addicted to Snapchat filters :-p

(I don't use Snap publicly...only with friends and family)

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Last but not least, the winner of Vogue 1501. Using the random number generator...the winner is Karen!



Please email me at sewcraftychemist -at- gmail -dot- com with your mailing address!

And yes...I still sew. Well theoretically! Life has been CRAZY busy and I haven't made it to the cave in a week and a half. I just put a couple of fabrics in the wash and the Nettie bodysuit shall be miiiiiine this weekend! Come back Monday to see how it turned out!