Some nightgowns (Burda 5/2016 & 1/2016)

We've all read it (or said it!): Sewing is therapy. 

I needed to sew. I also knew my focus was nil. I'd been working on the Lisette vest and trouser pattern from Butterick, but no way could I go back to that. I was about to have houseguests for 2-3 weeks and decided I'd make some nightgowns since I'd be required to actually sleep in clothing (TMI LOL!). 

Burda 5/2016:

Way back in 2016, I used this dress pattern from spring issue of Burda, to make a nightgown (https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/125146). My fabric was a very lightweight cotton or linen knit and it's still my favorite nightgown! The pattern is 5/2016 #113 (there's a top version as well). It's an A-line shape with an inverted front pleat and braided straps. 

I was using a lightweight french terry and thought the three layers of fabric might be too heavy, so I instead used some plain white rayon knit to make binding. I cut a size 40 neckline and armhole and graded out to a 42 for the rest. I did not add hem allowance (both adjustments are standard for me with Burda mag). I did not make any adjustments to the pattern to account for binding instead of hemming. 

I cut the binding at 1 7/8" and attached with a 3/8" seam allowance on the sewing machine. I topstitched with the coverstitch. Sewed the side seams, hemmed it, DONE! 

It's my second favorite night gown :)

Then, I made another one! But this fabric is a rayon blend, super drapey, and it is NOT my favorite.

The only difference from the yellow one is that I cut three narrow strips and braided them to make the straps. I cut it on the cross grain and it is still extremely limp and stretchy. The easiest adjustment I can think to make is to just cut off the straps and maybe use a plain black knit sewn into tube (like the yellow one). 

Burda 1/2016 #105:

A dear friend sent me a giftcard to Fabric Mart and I bought a piece of lightweight french terry for another gown! Why did I decide to switch it up? Because we just like to be difficult, don't we? 

This tank top pattern from Burda gave the same vibe but with more stable straps/shoulders. I cut a size 40/42 as outlined above and added no hem allowance. But, I made the mistake of largely just tracing down from the waist to lengthen it. Err. That's not going to work! It's snug through the hips :( And while it otherwise is very comfy (it's not uncomfortable to sleep in), I just don't wear it nearly as much as the two favorites from the 5/2016 pattern. 

The inset is cool and presents an opportunity to add interest. I used a lighter part of the tie-dye fabric here, did a face binding (at least that's what I think it's called! I stitched a strip of fabric to the front, turned it to the inside, and coverstitched in place), and did a rolled edge on the inset with my serger. I used a matching thread and edge stitched the inset in place. It's so cute!! 

You see how it's snug on Lily's hips? Sigh!!!! 

Patterns On Repeat

I'm getting behind again on reviews and wanted to get these posted.

After making the B6427 tee from the black cotton lycra, I decided I didn't like it enough for garments but it would be fine for loungewear. And I was already wearing my other B6031 nighties as often as possible...so I made two more!

The first was made with the same lace as the grey one. I had enough for the bust lace but nothing else. I added 1/2" to account for not using the lace and just sewed that seam. I cut the bottom straight and skipped the lower lace. With the grey fabric, it was SO easy to make straps from self-fabric!! For this fabric?! Oh my gosh. It drove me mad. I think I tried 3 or 4 times before quitting. I had some old straps from a long-gone strapless bra that I used.

For the all black version I had 2" black lace (the pattern calls for 1 1/2") so it's a little bit more exposed.

I used a pretty elastic lace on back and made straps using rayon challis an packaged bra slides/rings. It worked out great.

I ADORE the lace on the hem!!! I admit, the two with lace hems are my favorites <3

These have been in heavy rotation and I cannot say I won't revisit this pattern again sometime in the future. Someone mentioned a navy one and now I'm pretty sure I'll make another one if I find a nice navy knit. I have yards and yards of white lace. Some people expressed interest in a sew along so if I remake the pattern, I'll revisit the idea.

The other repeat was a black pair of S8424 leggings from the same fabric. I'd decided to do something using HTV and the Cricut. When making transfers, you have to remember to mirror the design. So I cut both leg designs mirrored. Well...pants legs are ALREADY mirrored! I only needed to mirror one. DOH!! And then, when doing the waistband, I had the unit ready to go, and installed it "backward". The stitching for the elastic is on the outside. DOH!!

I went back into Design Space and created this "Oops!" iron-on. LOL!!!! :)

No other changes were made. I REALLY like this leggings pattern!

Last, but certainly not least; on repeat is Burda mag 1/2018 sweatshirt but for my daughter, not me. 

When I made my M7688 sweatshirt, she wanted a mustard one and I ordered this fabric from Cali Fabrics. Well, this stuff is THICK. There was no way it would be made into that top. As mentioned in my review post, I had been hiding my Burda hoodie from her and one day she saw it, freaked out, and begged for one.

I got it started and my mojo went on hiatus. Plus, I didn't care for the zipper when it came (Wawak). The fabric was difficult to handle; it did not press well at all and cutting was tough on my hands so I spread it out over quite a period of time. And then I forgot she didn't want the bias binding on the hem. But I forgot to add hem allowance. And as mentioned, shortening metal zippers is a no for me. I stewed for DAYS over what to do with that hem. And then I had an ER-visit as I had a bout of vertigo (I've experienced dizziness but never THAT! It was scary!!) so more days passed. At the same time, my pants for wearing to the premier of Black Panther were sitting as well. I knew I had to finish those by Friday and decided to knock the sweatshirt first. Luckily, I found my mojo!

Lightbulb moment...self binding! The fabric wouldn't have liked being quadrupled so I basically cut a strip, serged it to the edge, turned it inside and topstitched. IT WORKED PERFECTLY! 

I also remembered to widen the pocket. I slashed and spread and added an inch. If you make this, MAKE THIS ADJUSTMENT!!!! Her pockets are so much more usable than mine.

Daughter is slim and has a short torso and LONG limbs. I knew the straight size would work but we'd have to lengthen those sleeves. And since I wished I had another inch, I added 2" to hers; 1.5" about mid-sleeve (she's long shoulder to elbow and elbow to wrist). I also added 1/2" at the hem and made the cuffs about 1/2" longer than called for in Burda's instructions.

Sleeve on me :) It is *perfect* on her!

For my version, I used a size 40. For hers I used a size 36 and graded the neck/shoulder to a 38. This worked out so well.  I bought natural twill tape which really played well with the zipper color. YAY!!

I didn't bother trying to do the hood seam the 'right way' this time either...it's fine.

And, as thick as the fabric is, the doubled fabric for the hem was fine. Go figure. 

After all the fussiness, I finished and was really impressed by it! And she LOVES it. She wore it to school Friday and said she got lots of compliments.

Hopefully, since my mojo has returned, and I don't have to work Monday, I can get going on a Clare coat muslin. I'm running out of time to get that sewn *in* February.

Butterick 6031

Yes, I have 712 other things to review but...:)

After finishing my all-black wardrobe I hurriedly changed my serger and coverstitch threads to grey to start working on the hoodie. And then once I realized I had to redo the black sleeves I decided to circle back. I expected the hoodie to take longer (yeah, I know...) but I started it Tuesday evening and finished it Wednesday evening. And when I went searching for the mesh I wanted to use for the hood, I came across this fabric. I bought this in 2015 to make this pattern so I had straps and lace already as well.

But I had black lace and the print is more of a dark blue-grey. So I found a smaller piece of lace in stash that would work.

I read as many reviews as I could and decided to sew a 16C cup (typically I use a 14C but my body is bigger than it was!). I graded the back piece out to an 18 below the waist. I am very happy with the out-of-envelope fit. I need some adjustments but this is totally wearable!

I slept in it last night. Swoon.

Subpar mirror pics because, sleepwear. 

While this lace is also black, it has this white accent which lightens it a bit. The straps are a dark blueish grey.

I changed my top thread to black and duh moment when I attached the 1/8" lace to the cups. 

It's not too noticeable though.

I didn't have any picot elastic that matched so just used the 3/8" suggested, turned and pressed and topstitched with a zigzag.

This photo is to show how it fits on me. It pulls to the back above the lace which also puts the darts towards the side seams. When I pull the side seam where it belongs, the bust dart is in the right space but there's a little too much width in the CF.  I've since added width to the back side seam and narrowed the cf a little. 

On the bust fit, I need a little more length. This is often the case for me with bust fit. I do usually need some extra width but I really need more vertical room. I can't get this by say going up a size - that's going to be too large. Going up to the next cup size isn't the answer either as the D-cup pattern piece always has too much projection. I kind of need a C-cup with FBA.

I added 1/2" to the bust at CF grading to 1/4" and nothing at the side seam.

I made one snafu. Did you see it?? (did you scroll up?)

I was careful not to put a giant flower over the bust...but that is all. And now I have what looks like NOTHING on one side with the super light flowers and then the dark flowers on the other side. 

WAH! It bugged me the entire time. Every time I looked at it I got annoyed with myself. And then I put it on my body! :-D And I LOVE IT!!! 

So then, as sewers do, I cut out another one! Hahahahaha!!!!

I have enough of this lace to do the hem so I'm excited about that! 

This weekend I can get photos of the rest of the loungewear items and the hoodie and get those reviews written!