Monday, January 28, 2019

Butterick 6621--Times FOUR!

This is a pretty epic post! Lots of pics too!! :)

I was immediately smitten with this pattern when this collection was released. I could see all of them in my closet and purchased it via Club BMV as soon as there was a sale!
  • Twist Front - yasss.
  • Faux wrap front with slight boatneck - I'll take it!
  • View B was just a bonus with the waist ties.
  • Nice length
  • Center back seam
Such a great pattern!

I cut a size 14 and did a cheater 3/4" FBA. I graded the hip to a size 16 and left the length as is. I curved in the center back through the waist just a tad (~3/8") and did a 1" full bicep adjustment. 

The armhole is raised slightly and extra width added.
This small difference in seam length as a result is just eased into the back.

I did a slash and spread to add a little length to center front as well.

First up was view A, the twist front. I had this cool print jersey from SR Harris. I had 2 yards and the pattern needs 1 5/8. I washed it and woah did it shrink! And it was off grain. By the time I got it ready for cutting I *just* barely squeaked it out and had to take my sleeve length where I could get it :)

The twist front is NOT COMPLICATED. At all. Don't be like me...the only twist fronts I've done previously were Burda patterns and required some thinking! On this view, I serged the center front prior to sewing it together. All other seams were constructed via serger. 

The waist seam is part dart
I just sewed this seam with a zig zag stitch and trimmed it down

Oh! Neck binding - measure your neckline and adjust based on your fabric's stretch and recovery. I had to pull mine out and shorten it several inches.

I like where and how the twist sits and the neckline came out okay. 

I've worn this one already and really like it. I want to sew a solid version AND I just bought a beautiful print to make a version for spring.

Next up was view C. Can you believe I don't own any black dresses? I had this black wool jersey, also from SR Harris. Adore the mock wrap front. A.D.O.R.E! I shortened this neck binding TOO much and it's uneven. Luckily it's black and with the plain front I'll almost for sure wear a necklace every time.

The coverstitch worked flawlessly for this fabric (wool jersey is so fantastic if you're able to wear wool!). This fabric wasn't as stretchy as the jersey from view A and I ended up sewing the side seams at 3/8" and the center back and 5/8" through the upper back, tapering to a 3/8" seam from the waist down. 

The overlay was hemmed before sewing the side seams.
I started my coverstitch on the dress hem at this seam and finished under the overlay.

The ties are gathered a little. 

I've worn this one too and it is another winner!

And THEN...I like the Ruska knot dress. It's so simple but so cool. But I really don't care for anything else in the book which made it impossible for me to shell out for it. I mean, the longer version of the Ruska is cute too but there's not a ton of design there that doesn't exist in my pattern catalog already.

I was trying on the finished view C and, my wool jersey is a little translucent. And I was thinking I'd need a slip...the front is fine because of the overlay.

Lightbulb moment. The front of the Ruska knot dress is just an overlay.

So I took the front and view C and mocked up a front with ties. Made some modifications and cut another front. That one was much the final version I made some additional changes.

This was the 2nd iteration. 
I realized it would look better with a CF seam and added that in the finished dress.

This fabric is ALSO from SR Harris! It's a lovely pine green (I think!) but it is heftier than the other two knits used. I'd initially made a facing for the tie but the fabric was too thick to be doubled and then tied so I had to rip all of that out. WHEW! Otherwise, no changes from the black version C.

I thought I was done with the pattern! Buuuuttttt, I'd kept it in my little pink basket in the sewing room :)

I regularly peruse retail stores that I like and saw this simple but cute dress at LOFT. 
still debating on tie options! I was in LOFT after this was finished and the ties are a strip of the sweater knit was sewn between the sleeve and it was integrated into the sleeve. Drats!

I have a gazillion cuts of shirting and had my mind on this burgundy ponte. Hmm. This fabric is from...SR Harris! Doh! I bought it awhile back to make a dress but didn't get around to it. I was going to save it for pants -- it would have been better used as pants. It's super thick.

When I got ready to baste it, I was sure it would be too small. I ended up sewing 3/8" seams on the back, side seams and the sleeve seams. It's still a little snug through the bust, and I totally need a bit more room to navigate the butt (that's what the wrinkles are...not swayback)...but it does not bother me enough to not wear it! 

I  decided the striped sleeve bits should be 6" long finished and the cuff 3". I had to play around with the flare on the cuff and in the end sliced the rectangle of fabric 6 times and spread them about 1/2" apart. I believe I doubled the initial width at the hem. The split cuffs are again basically a rectangle and I decided to 'cut' in about 1.5" on each side. Worked out well!! The cuffs were basted to the flared sleeve and attached to the main sleeve in the round.

This sat for a few days because I was unsure of how I wanted to finish the neckline. Especially with the heft of this fabric. In the end, I took 2" strip of fabric and attached it. Then under stitched, pressed, topstitched and trimmed back.

And NOW, I really have put the pattern away...for a spell...I totally picked up another copy of this pattern at the most recent JA sale because this will obviously be (already is?!) a TNT.

In other news...

I have to have surgery on my hand.

I'm trying not to be too bummed out. I mean, when I initially fractured my hand, I was out of commission for two months. It may be a little longer than all depends. I will most certainly take it slowwwww. He believes I will regain full use of my hand. He told me that and my response was, "Like a normal person?!?!". He said, "Yes, like a normal person." 
  • I should be able to drive about 1 week after.
  • I can return to work by that time but at best, I'll work half days the second worst I'll take a 2nd week off. I have a straight desk job now so tons of computer work.
  • By about week 4-6 I should "be able to write normally". Sigh. LOL!
  • "Light gripping, pulling and pinching" until ~week 10-12. 
  • I should expect full strength and mobility between 6-12 months. Yeah, I know. I'm pretty sure that's just a cya timeframe.
It isn't scheduled yet but between work commitments -- I have a conference to attend early April and want to be a minimum of 4 weeks out for that -- and fitting into the surgeon's schedule, we'll see. Hoping for late February.


  1. All your dresses look adorable. I tend to buy the patterns that you show on your blog because they look great on you.

    1. Aww thanks Eileen! If you get a chance to grab this one, hope you love it as much as I do!

  2. You took full advantage of that pattern and all are so pretty. I'm so sorry about your hand.

  3. I absolutely love all 4 versions which is good because I am impatiently waiting for this pattern to arrive in the mail! It is a great pattern, I can see me making up a bunch too.
    Hope your hand surgery gets scheduled soon, it sounds like a long road to full recovery, but it will be worth it.

    1. Thanks Allison!
      I hope yours shows up soon!!!! Can't wait to see what you make.

  4. Awesome makes! You always do a great job! Praying all goes with your surgery and that full use of your hand comes quickly!

  5. Beautiful dresses, they all look fab! You have my sympathy re the hand surgery and recovery period. However please follow the guidance they give you to avoid future issues, annoying though it is the sewing can wait a bit.

    1. Thanks Ruthie! I am totally going to be strictly following the rules!

  6. Fabulous dresses! I love the wrap overlay of the black one which I think is my fave.
    So sorry to hear about your hand surgery :(

  7. I'm sorry you have to have surgery on your hand, but hope that this will help you to regain full function again.

    I knew you would rock B6621! All four are great and my favorite is the LOFT hack.

    1. Thank you!!!!

      Fingers crossed that this hand gets it together.

  8. Love these, they look so nice on you. You did a great job.

  9. Love your post and all the dresses you made, I need to add this pattern to my collection

  10. Hope your surgery goes great and you heal well and gain full use of your hand .... like a normal person.

    All of your dresses look fantabulous!!! The Loft dress recreation is pretty good! I didn't notice the tie until you pointed out and yours still looked great!

    When you mentioned Ruska, I knew I have that one.... It's available for free at LoveSewingMag.

  11. Love, love, love all your dresses! Bummer about needing surgery but if it will make you have a hand like a "normal person" it will be so worth it. I think doctors always give us the worst case scenario with healing time. Hoping yours is much faster than he predicts!

  12. Love all of your dresses. They look beautiful on you! I really like what you did with the sleeve - I'd like to try this - a little intimidated though...

    1. Hi Liza! It's super straightforward! In my next blogpost, I'll show the steps that I took. You can totally do it!

  13. very cute dresses and way to get mileage out of a pattern! sorry to hear about the hand surgery - hope you get it done soon and on the road to feeling 100%

  14. Blessings on your surgery. I've had carpul tunnel surgery on both wrists--in casts, then in hand braces. Please, please obey your doctor religiously! I had an issue with forgetting and I pulled a grill with my hand and it set me back at least two weeks in healing. Love your dresses and that you enjoyed making them. You look terrific in them.

    1. Thank you so much!
      Yeah, I have been suffering for so long, I have no intention of rushing it. I've already accepted there will be NO SEWING for awhile.

  15. I understand why you've made this four times because you look AMAZING in all four versions! Especially like the hacked one!

  16. All the dresses are super cute.

    Good luck on the hand surgery and recovery. Full use of your hand is worth the risk and temporary inconvenience.

  17. All of your versions for this pattern are lovely on you! I love the mock wrap for View C. I don't own this pattern yet, but just might pick it up in the next sale. The inspiration dress is just perfect!

    Praying for all to go well when you have surgery. My sister just had surgery on both of her hands (due to carpal tunnel) and she is recovering nicely. All things considered, returning to a normal person probably sounds wonderful to you!

  18. I love,love,love all the versions. I am going to buy this pattern. I don't really need a lot of dresses now but I do have my 50 year class reunion later this year and have already been thinking about what to wear. Your versions are so inspiring and hope to have as good of success as you did. Sorry you have to have surgery for your hand. I am sure it will go well, it sucks though that it will slow down your sewing!

  19. Beautiful dresses! And all so very different- you would never guess it was the same pattern! If it wasn't so darn cold, I would run out to buy this pattern today! Good luck with your surgery- I hope that it all goes smoothly.

  20. All of the dresses are fantastic; your versions should be used for the pattern front!

  21. Sorry to read about the upcoming hand surgery. Sending good vibes for a speedy and beyond perfect recovery. And those dresses look so comfortable, the teal one is my favourite. It's a great colour on you.

  22. These dresses all look so fantastic! It sucks that you have to have surgery, but if it makes things better in the long run it will be worth it. Good luck with scheduling, and with the procedure (and good luck from not going crazy having to wait to sew until you get to rehab it a bit after). At least you were able to get as much sewing in before the surgery as possible, and you have some wonderful dresses to enjoy in the meantime!

  23. Excellent work, and I love each and every version of this pattern! Your creativity and workmanship make your creations sparkle. I am inspired and intend to buy this pattern. Thanks for sharing, and please know that you are in my prayers and wishes for a quick surgery - and recovery!

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  25. You look beautiful in all of your makes! I will be buying this pattern and following your adventures on Instagram. Thanks so much for the inspiration.

  26. Love your blog and you may want to change the name of your blog form "Sewing Dabacles" to "Sewing Miracles".
    I love everything you have sewn!!! Can you show/explain what a cheater FBA is please. thanks for all your wonderful posts.


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