Butterick 6621--Times FOUR!

This is a pretty epic post! Lots of pics too!! :)

I was immediately smitten with this pattern when this collection was released. I could see all of them in my closet and purchased it via Club BMV as soon as there was a sale!

• Twist Front - yasss.
• Faux wrap front with slight boatneck - I'll take it!
• View B was just a bonus with the waist ties.
• Nice length
• Center back seam

Such a great pattern!

I cut a size 14 and did a cheater 3/4" FBA. I graded the hip to a size 16 and left the length as is. I curved in the center back through the waist just a tad (~3/8") and did a 1" full bicep adjustment. 

The armhole is raised slightly and extra width added.

This small difference in seam length as a result is just eased into the back.

I did a slash and spread to add a little length to center front as well.

First up was view A, the twist front. I had this cool print jersey from SR Harris. I had 2 yards and the pattern needs 1 5/8. I washed it and woah did it shrink! And it was off grain. By the time I got it ready for cutting I *just* barely squeaked it out and had to take my sleeve length where I could get it :)

The twist front is NOT COMPLICATED. At all. Don't be like me...the only twist fronts I've done previously were Burda patterns and required some thinking! On this view, I serged the center front prior to sewing it together. All other seams were constructed via serger. 

The waist seam is part dart

I just sewed this seam with a zig zag stitch and trimmed it down

Oh! Neck binding - measure your neckline and adjust based on your fabric's stretch and recovery. I had to pull mine out and shorten it several inches.

I like where and how the twist sits and the neckline came out okay. 

I've worn this one already and really like it. I want to sew a solid version AND I just bought a beautiful print to make a version for spring.

Next up was view C. Can you believe I don't own any black dresses? I had this black wool jersey, also from SR Harris. Adore the mock wrap front. A.D.O.R.E! I shortened this neck binding TOO much and it's uneven. Luckily it's black and with the plain front I'll almost for sure wear a necklace every time.

The coverstitch worked flawlessly for this fabric (wool jersey is so fantastic if you're able to wear wool!). This fabric wasn't as stretchy as the jersey from view A and I ended up sewing the side seams at 3/8" and the center back and 5/8" through the upper back, tapering to a 3/8" seam from the waist down. 

The overlay was hemmed before sewing the side seams.

I started my coverstitch on the dress hem at this seam and finished under the overlay.

The ties are gathered a little. 

I've worn this one too and it is another winner!

And THEN...I like the Ruska knot dress. It's so simple but so cool. But I really don't care for anything else in the book which made it impossible for me to shell out for it. I mean, the longer version of the Ruska is cute too but there's not a ton of design there that doesn't exist in my pattern catalog already.

I was trying on the finished view C and, my wool jersey is a little translucent. And I was thinking I'd need a slip...the front is fine because of the overlay.

Lightbulb moment. The front of the Ruska knot dress is just an overlay.

So I took the front and view C and mocked up a front with ties. Made some modifications and cut another front. That one was much closer...in the final version I made some additional changes.

This was the 2nd iteration. 

I realized it would look better with a CF seam and added that in the finished dress.

This fabric is ALSO from SR Harris! It's a lovely pine green (I think!) but it is heftier than the other two knits used. I'd initially made a facing for the tie but the fabric was too thick to be doubled and then tied so I had to rip all of that out. WHEW! Otherwise, no changes from the black version C.

I thought I was done with the pattern! Buuuuttttt, I'd kept it in my little pink basket in the sewing room :)

I regularly peruse retail stores that I like and saw this simple but cute dress at LOFT. 

still debating on tie options! I was in LOFT after this was finished and the ties are a strip of the sweater knit was sewn between the sleeve and cuff...so it was integrated into the sleeve. Drats!

I have a gazillion cuts of shirting and had my mind on this burgundy ponte. Hmm. This fabric is from...SR Harris! Doh! I bought it awhile back to make a dress but didn't get around to it. I was going to save it for pants -- it would have been better used as pants. It's super thick.

When I got ready to baste it, I was sure it would be too small. I ended up sewing 3/8" seams on the back, side seams and the sleeve seams. It's still a little snug through the bust, and I totally need a bit more room to navigate the butt (that's what the wrinkles are...not swayback)...but it does not bother me enough to not wear it! 

I  decided the striped sleeve bits should be 6" long finished and the cuff 3". I had to play around with the flare on the cuff and in the end sliced the rectangle of fabric 6 times and spread them about 1/2" apart. I believe I doubled the initial width at the hem. The split cuffs are again basically a rectangle and I decided to 'cut' in about 1.5" on each side. Worked out well!! The cuffs were basted to the flared sleeve and attached to the main sleeve in the round.

This sat for a few days because I was unsure of how I wanted to finish the neckline. Especially with the heft of this fabric. In the end, I took 2" strip of fabric and attached it. Then under stitched, pressed, topstitched and trimmed back.

And NOW, I really have put the pattern away...for a spell...I totally picked up another copy of this pattern at the most recent JA sale because this will obviously be (already is?!) a TNT.

In other news...

I have to have surgery on my hand.

I'm trying not to be too bummed out. I mean, when I initially fractured my hand, I was out of commission for two months. It may be a little longer than that...it all depends. I will most certainly take it slowwwww. He believes I will regain full use of my hand. He told me that and my response was, "Like a normal person?!?!". He said, "Yes, like a normal person." 

• I should be able to drive about 1 week after.

• I can return to work by that time but at best, I'll work half days the second week...at worst I'll take a 2nd week off. I have a straight desk job now so tons of computer work.

• By about week 4-6 I should "be able to write normally". Sigh. LOL!

• "Light gripping, pulling and pinching" until ~week 10-12. 

• I should expect full strength and mobility between 6-12 months. Yeah, I know. I'm pretty sure that's just a cya timeframe.

It isn't scheduled yet but between work commitments -- I have a conference to attend early April and want to be a minimum of 4 weeks out for that -- and fitting into the surgeon's schedule, we'll see. Hoping for late February.