Grainline Felix

Back in 2014, when I participated in the Fabric Mart Fabricista challenge, we were given the Grainline Scout tee to 'make our own'. I muslined because I knew there was no way I was going to sew this as is.

I finished the challenge and wore the top for a bit...but I tossed the pattern immediately. I've not really considered any Grainline patterns since then (I've owned the Lakeside pjs since they were first released). Mainly, her patterns just don't match my aesthetic; too boxy, too shapeless. very casual in a way that I don't normally dress.

So while I liked the Felix immediately, my hesitation with Indies in general and this company specifically, made me pass. Then I saw the photo of the dress made up in the blue fabric! I decided to gamble because it looked amazing!! I bought a PDF version of the pattern on Pattern Review.

I saw a response from Jen to someone about the bodice finish basically "needing" the lining. You don't NEED the lining. It will produce a beautiful finish but it is not necessary because the bodice is finished with a facing. 

The PDF went together fine and everything matched up as it was supposed to (notches, etc). I am almost always annoyed by Indie patterns' gazillion pages of instructions. I'm not sure why 29 pages is necessary...e.g., 3 steps and a full page on understitching the facing. Gah. But the instructions were fine and they were mostly clear. I even read through the lining steps.

The left neckband is wonky on me. 

I tried fixing it after it was assembled so now my right band is a little sloppy. boooo!

I knew beforehand that I would be eliminating the horizontal seam in back, leaving it unlined and leaving out the pockets. You CAN have the pockets without lining but it requires more work than I think is worth it. If you wanted it unlined but with pockets, then I'd say go for inseam.

I do not like that horizontal back seam. At all. Again, there is a very specific body type that can take a seam going across their backside with fabric eased in...I ain't got it!

I sewed a size 12 based on the measurement chart and finished bust measurement. I decided to do a 3/4" FBA and eliminated the dart that was created. I could have used a *little* more room!  

Because the back skirt of the lining had no additional ease, I used that piece for my skirt. I attached them, overlapping the seam allowance, and did a 1/2" swayback adjustment. I added the seam allowance to CB directly on the fabric. I did NOT consider the fact that the lining piece is shorter, and had to shorten my front pattern piece after the fact. Doh! But it works! I like this length a lot.

the pattern instructs turning up 1/4" then 3/4". 

I did a narrow hem.

I kept the additional waist room from my FBA and based on that additional space, I added 1" on the fold for the front skirt. I then chose a spot (kind of randomly, honestly) and marked it both sides of center. I did a very light gathering between the two marks. I did not like the idea of just easing the skirt in.  

Once the front skirt was attached I basted the side seams. I am pretty straight from the front and needed a little waist definition. I took it in about 3/4" on each side starting from about 2" below the armhole to the front horizontal seam.

On my muslin, I noticed the back neckband was really, really round. It was tough to sew. I will have to wear it a couple times likely to really get what's wrong with it. I'm thinking the neck/shoulder fit on Grainline just doesn't work for me. I believe it's meant for a more erect back; the shoulder seam is WAY back on me and I do not have forward shoulders. I also want to pull it away from my neck repeatedly. Eh. I am not sure I'll be using the pattern again. 

But I do like THIS dress! 

The fabric is (an expensive!) tencel chambray from Treadle Yard Goods in St. Paul. Lastly, maybe it's evident in the pics how low the armholes are? It's always an issue when a pattern has a sleeved and sleeveless option with the same bodice. The armholes need to be raised for sleeves so getting out of the dress is a challenge! I noted this on IG when I muslined it...but then I didn't think I had enough of this fabric to cut sleeves so I didn't adjust the armhole. Sigh.

just barely made it!

Part of this frustration, admittedly, is due to pulling out the True Bias Lander pants, looking at this front crotch curve and NOPE'ing the whole idea. True Bias Ogden - fantastic pattern. I hate I waited so long to try it. These pants? n.o.p.e. 

Someone's crotch is shaped like this...but mine isn't.

So I've given up on the Landers and am sewing another pair of Birkin Flares with some tweaks (including a button fly!). 

I think my overall feelings on the Felix are neutral. You all know I'm a Big4 / Burda fangirl. I know there are good Indies; I don't dispute that. I think that so many of them are based on the owner's body type and it doesn't translate well to creating sewing patterns for the masses. No pattern will fit all of the bodies; I TOTALLY get that -- But so many of these companies are just too specific in the body type they draft for. And I just don't have the patience (or budget!) to gamble repeatedly.  

I'm not confident I'll use my awesome paisley fabric on the Felix this fall. But I will wear this Felix dress because I think it's pretty darned cute on me.