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Wednesday, April 29, 2020

Oldies but Goodies! Simplicity 2246 and McCall's 6754

Way back in 2015 I got the idea to sew a knit shirtdress. It was my birthday dress that year and I wore it until it was sad and faded :) 



For the new version, I fell for the fabric even though I'd sworn off double brushed poly. So while I did not enjoy sewing this, I really, REALLY love the dress!!!
It wasn't until I looked at the pics that I realized my bottom button was undone. LOL!!!

The pattern is intended for wovens and I've only used it for knits. I sewed a size 14 and added 1" to the back at the hip and a 1/2" bicep adjustment. I also did a 1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment. The adjustments to the paper patterns are detailed in the blog post linked above. 



Like the former version, I interfaced both collar and facing (it has an all in one collarstand and collar) and both the front band and facing. I used a very lightweight tricot and this helps stabilize tricky areas and the buttonholes/buttons. The buttons are run of the mill JA buttons that I had in stash in a light blue. 

I am not normally on board with fabric belts but I love the stripe! It also looks good with my standard leather belts. Lastly, I decided to add elastic to the sleeves. I serged and turned up 1", hemmed at 7/8" and used 3/4" elastic. After I'd closed everything up and tried the dress on, I realized I used 2 different types of elastic. DOH! LOL! One is rigid and one is very soft/pliable. Do you think I undid it? NOPE! It's fine!

I'm not a huge fan of dusters but I think this works well as one! So, you never know, I just may be a convert! :)
M6754 was purchased the year I started sewing. I made the peplum top and apparently discarded the remainder of the pattern piece that turns the peplum into a dress. Oy!

I knew I could just extend the seams on the peplum to the appropriate length, but I soon decided on a straight skirt and modified NL6530 to fit the McCall's bodice. 




When Fabric Epiphanies posted a "hack" on her blog for a raglan top with gathered sleeves, I had to have one. I do like the popular pattern but just will not pay Indie prices for a pattern that has the same front and back and sleeves cut on the fold. IMO that's lazy drafting and *I* am nowhere near the same at the back of my body vs. the front. SO! Once I realized I had a raglan in stash that I liked (many Burda raglans available but most of the patterns for knits are looser/boxier), I was off!
I used a 14 bodice with the waist graded to match the skirt pattern. I traced a copy of the sleeve, measured it from front to back at the points and divided it equally. I slashed and spread adding about 6" total iirc. I doubled the SA to add a casing at the top and made no changes at the hem. I used 1/2" elastic in the sleeves.

I stitched up the bodice, attached the neckbinding, and stitched up the sleeves. Then, I hemmed the sleeve at the neckline. inserted the elastic (extending the elastic about 1/4" into the seam allowance) and sewed the sleeve to the dress. I also did a tiny zigzag over the elastic. 

I LOVE IT! I may make a top too because I think it's so cute! I love the amount of gathers - not too much, not too little. I will add a hem allowance for the casing to the sleeve hem as it hits at my forearm which allows for less gathering. 

Total win on both dresses! <3 Fabric is from Fabric Mart for both. 

And no post with outside pics is complete without a "what they doing over there?" pic!