Pages

Wednesday, April 29, 2020

Oldies but Goodies! Simplicity 2246 and McCall's 6754

Way back in 2015 I got the idea to sew a knit shirtdress. It was my birthday dress that year and I wore it until it was sad and faded :) 



For the new version, I fell for the fabric even though I'd sworn off double brushed poly. So while I did not enjoy sewing this, I really, REALLY love the dress!!!
It wasn't until I looked at the pics that I realized my bottom button was undone. LOL!!!

The pattern is intended for wovens and I've only used it for knits. I sewed a size 14 and added 1" to the back at the hip and a 1/2" bicep adjustment. I also did a 1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment. The adjustments to the paper patterns are detailed in the blog post linked above. 



Like the former version, I interfaced both collar and facing (it has an all in one collarstand and collar) and both the front band and facing. I used a very lightweight tricot and this helps stabilize tricky areas and the buttonholes/buttons. The buttons are run of the mill JA buttons that I had in stash in a light blue. 

I am not normally on board with fabric belts but I love the stripe! It also looks good with my standard leather belts. Lastly, I decided to add elastic to the sleeves. I serged and turned up 1", hemmed at 7/8" and used 3/4" elastic. After I'd closed everything up and tried the dress on, I realized I used 2 different types of elastic. DOH! LOL! One is rigid and one is very soft/pliable. Do you think I undid it? NOPE! It's fine!

I'm not a huge fan of dusters but I think this works well as one! So, you never know, I just may be a convert! :)
M6754 was purchased the year I started sewing. I made the peplum top and apparently discarded the remainder of the pattern piece that turns the peplum into a dress. Oy!

I knew I could just extend the seams on the peplum to the appropriate length, but I soon decided on a straight skirt and modified NL6530 to fit the McCall's bodice. 




When Fabric Epiphanies posted a "hack" on her blog for a raglan top with gathered sleeves, I had to have one. I do like the popular pattern but just will not pay Indie prices for a pattern that has the same front and back and sleeves cut on the fold. IMO that's lazy drafting and *I* am nowhere near the same at the back of my body vs. the front. SO! Once I realized I had a raglan in stash that I liked (many Burda raglans available but most of the patterns for knits are looser/boxier), I was off!
I used a 14 bodice with the waist graded to match the skirt pattern. I traced a copy of the sleeve, measured it from front to back at the points and divided it equally. I slashed and spread adding about 6" total iirc. I doubled the SA to add a casing at the top and made no changes at the hem. I used 1/2" elastic in the sleeves.

I stitched up the bodice, attached the neckbinding, and stitched up the sleeves. Then, I hemmed the sleeve at the neckline. inserted the elastic (extending the elastic about 1/4" into the seam allowance) and sewed the sleeve to the dress. I also did a tiny zigzag over the elastic. 

I LOVE IT! I may make a top too because I think it's so cute! I love the amount of gathers - not too much, not too little. I will add a hem allowance for the casing to the sleeve hem as it hits at my forearm which allows for less gathering. 

Total win on both dresses! <3 Fabric is from Fabric Mart for both. 

And no post with outside pics is complete without a "what they doing over there?" pic!


16 comments:

Vanessa said...

Birth dresses look so good! I think I remember that fabric from Fabricmart. The tie on the shirtdress is really nice.

katherine h said...

I love your use of a stripe for that dress! So glad I re-introduced myself to your blog via computer. I was looking at it in bloglovn, but not much shows up there. Finally got around to changing my settings so I could read it from my blog. Now I can go back and enjoy all your previous posts.

Chloe said...

That stripey dress is gorgeous! Looks fantastic

SewRuthie said...

Both dresses look great, lots to be said for subtle reworking of patterns we already have.

Beth said...

So cute!!! The fit is terrific---thank you for the inspiration

Solar Flair said...

Both dresses are beautifully done and look really great on. But, have to tell you, the stripe as a duster is the BOMB!! It looks sooooo good. I'd be thinking about doing that one in a silk strip oh!! and a summer weight linen.

theresa said...

I like the first dress. Did you add "walking ease" to the front? If you did not it helps the fronts of "button up" and wrap dresses hang straight with no gapping. If you have wide hips and narrow shoulders like me it really makes a difference. It's a handy optical illusion. Threads magazine covered this (they called it "off grain") in the latest issue (June/July 10 Pattern Changes to Improve Fit).

KiKi said...

They both are beautiful and I love the fabric.

L said...

Love the striped dress! Dealing with the double-brushed poly was well worth it because this dress is sharp!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Hi Theresa! I didn't because it's a knit and there's enough room in the hem (it's *very* slightly A-line)!

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

really cute dress, it's difficult to find vertical stripe fabric which is what looks good in this style. I've never sewn with the double brushed poly, might have to check it out.

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

I love both dresses but really love the striped shirtdress. Thanks for showing it both as a dress and a duster which makes it really versatile. And I'm glad you like the double brushed poly...cause I can not abide the fabric! LOL!

Denise said...

I love the striped dress especially! They're both great. I don't think I've ever made anything using double brushed poly but now I want to.

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

No, no, no. you misread. I love *these* prints! LOL! It is not a fabric I search for. Both of these purchases was "OMG THAT PRINT!" and I knew exactly what I wanted to make, and set out to find an appropriate fabric choice but couldn't :-p LOL!!!

Thanks :)

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

It's an interesting fabric. It's printed and so the options are near limitless and the colors are very vibrant. The right side is usually whiteish/greyish. It has high stretch and recovery but it feels a little warm. As a up, up, northerner, I can probably wear it except for mid-July through mid-September. In a warmer climate I'd be more leery.

Let's Get Sewing said...

I love how good the striped dress looks as a duster!