Thursday, May 21, 2020

Style Arc Clare Pant Muslin

This wasn't intentionally a some point I decided maybe it'd be a wearable muslin...but nah. And I'm not 100% sure I'd remake the pattern. Mayyyyyybe.

I like Style Arc's design and drafting. They are on my $hit-list for their crap instructions now. I'm not sure I'll be in a hurry to buy more patterns from them and certainly nothing too complex. 

1. - The illustration shows a pleat that's just folded out and basted but the instructions say to stitch the pleat.

2. - The way the front is constructed is really bulky and this fabric was *just* barely opaque and had a lot of drape. If I decide to sew this pattern again, I may eliminate the pockets. I could reduce the height so they are caught in the foldover band but not also folded over. However, they are VERY narrow - deep but narrow so I'm not sure how useful they'd be. 

3. - Why would you stitch through the elastic?? If I decided to sew it again, I'd just make a casing and keep the gathering to the side front and back.  Oh, and my pattern says to use elastic that is 1 1/5" :sideeye: I don't know if they intended 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" but the fold-down waistband is just under 2" so I went with 1.5" elastic. 

I've been going back on forth on sloper drafting. I am lazy and not super interested in drafting, but I NEED a sloper for my upper body and of course it would be super helpful for the lower. 

Oh, this fabric? atrocious. That's what moved it from garment to wearable muslin. It's a poly suiting from Fabric Mart. I'm not anti-polyester entirely but this stuff just SHRED the moment I cut it. 

Anyway, I then decided to go for it by matching the crotch curve of the pattern to my "fishbowl" exactly. (I talked about that here).  So I matched the curve of my body to the stitch line of the back pant piece.

(poorly) annotated below so you can see the changes

I lined up my crotch point with the patterns and I would have needed to go SO deep into the pattern and knowing I need more crotch extension and room through the inner thigh, I split the difference and extended the crotch point 1" and scooped/reshaped the crotch curve. As you can see, this takes away a lot of width so I've added back at the side seam. 

BUT otherwise... IT WORKED!!!!!! Woohoo! 

My addition at the side seam isn't quite right. It's too curvy too soon -- which is obvious now! On my body, the side seam pulls just a bit at the fullest part of my butt (look at the wavy butt lines!). and there's excess fabric up top. 
I hadn't pressed my seams because - full muslin at this point

The difference between left and right here is that I have the front rolled over the full width of the elastic. I need to shorten the front rise considerably if I make them again! :-p This is totally my natural stance, unfortunately! LOL!! But the good thing weird fabric collapsing at the back thigh.

I cut out the back pattern piece even though it looked "weird". Remember all that L vs J crotch curve stuff from back in the day?

Well...all that and I went right and cut the front out! Without adjusting it to my fishbowl. DOH!. So the front is way, way too long. 
Red - my body vs. black - the pattern crotch curve

What I hadn't noticed is how similar this pattern was to Burda 2/2017. I swear pretty much everything exists as a Burda!!! 

Oh well...I got the pattern during a sale and paid about $6 so...maybe I should give them another go since I know what to do. And maybe this time I'll use linen ;-)

Don't forget we're going to be starting our Tops That Pop! challenge as of June 1. See this post for more information! Also, I realized after the fact that I labeled it a summer challenge - really, it's a challenge to make new tops so friends down under, please feel free to sew along and make some new tops for the upcoming winter months!

Currently, there is a Style Arc sale of 20% off (yes, I know, I don't take back my ragging on their instructions but the patterns tend to work out!). Mimi G has pdf patterns on sale for $3. Style Sew Me has select patterns available for $5. I am also in contact with some other Indie pattern brands to see if they're willing to sponsor the challenge and offer discounts on top patterns. More soon! 



Infinity_of_numbats said...

Hi there, I have been considering this pattern ... and glad I found your review online. I also found a tutorial on this pattern from Mia of Sewing Like Mad. The first time she followed the "instructions" but then figured out a better way to do the pockets and elastic. Thanks so much for tips on crotch curve. Like you I jave a short front rise whereas many bloggers have to do the reverse, for a sway back adjustment. But I'm sure I don't have a sway front ... most intriguing :)

Vanessa said...

I have seen lots of sewists that said Style Arc's directions were no good. I have two patterns from them that I purchased during a Fabricmart pattern sale years ago, and I haven't even opened them up to see what the instructions are like. I do like the work you did on fitting the back, it looks great. The long front is not as noticeable until you said so.

I am excited to participate in the challenge! Thanks for including discounts and sales going on!

LindaC said...

I made a pant sloper from Suzy Furrer's class on Craftsy/Bluprint. A few hours of time and now ALL the pants fit. It's worth every minute of time and it's not really more complicated than what you did with your pattern. It's just more complete and saves time now.

I own some Style Arc patterns, but I don't think I've actually used them yet. I do like some of their designs. At any rate, I can't speak to the instructions since I don't think I've read them yet.

Doctor T Designs said...

Some of these instructions are just crazytown! Like, why would you do it that way? But at least you figured out how to get the pattern to work for you. It's probably worth it to make them up in something really nice now since you went through all the effort of getting the fit worked out.

Accordion3 said...

I like to describe Style Arc as top level drafting for people who already know how to put clothes together. I've met the SA people a few times now and they freely state that their major skill set is in design and drafting, not teaching. They trust that their customers are skilled and knowledgeable.

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

I'm always interested in your pants fitting journeys especially since I just don't want to be bothered these days. So it's fascinating to watch other sewists learn and make changes.

Bunny said...

That rear crotch looks really good. GReat idea to use a stripe for your muslin. Wow, that can really tell the tale. I have to remember that trick. I know you will get the side seam ironed out.

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thanks Bunny!!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thanks Carolyn! it is fun to look back on my own journey and I agree...seeing the progress of others is so cool!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Agreed. I don't have an issue with minimal directions I have an issue with incorrect/inaccurate directions!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thank you!

I have no clue why they'd tell you to sew through elastic...that's so weird.

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

I think I'm going to have to do it. As I mentioned, post-reduction, I absolutely NEED a bodice sloper so I may as well do both!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thanks Vanessa! It's too bad. The patterns are good which is why I keep buying them :-p The inaccuracies make me mad though!

KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles) said...

Thanks! Yeah, I was thinking about stitching the pocket opening down before turning in the waistband but by then, I knew this would only be a muslin because of the fabric.