Thursday, May 28, 2020

Burda 4/2019 (again!?)

First things first, in just a few days we'll kick off our #FayesTopsThatPop sewing challenge!

Currently, In-House Patterns is offering 20% off of all patterns through the end of the month. The discount will automatically be added to your cart at checkout. 

I am a huge fan of InHouse. I own the entire catalog except for the Diana blouse! Alexandra is a professional pattern drafter and offers patterns in sizes 0-16 and cup sizes A-D. 

Click HERE to shop patterns

Also, Sew House 7 is offering a 20% discount for all tops, including dresses with top options. The discount code is FAYE.  This sale is through midnight on June 1st. Sew House 7 has an extensive size chart. The standard line is intended for a B/C cup and includes size 00 (bust size 31") to 20 (bust size 47"). The curve line has cup options for C/D, E/F and G/H depending on style. It includes sizes 18 (bust size 45.5") to 34 (bust size 61.5").

Click HERE to shop patterns

I have yet to sew a SH7 pattern but I do own a few! The Burnside Bibs WILL happen for me this summer!! :) And I am going to snag the super cute Underwood today! 


I have to say that April 2019 was probably my favorite issue for all of 2019. This dress is item number 5 for me from that issue!

I saw a dress somewhere that had a ruffle across the back only with a "normal" front with mixed prints. I could not find that image again. Often, when I'm browsing the internet I will screenshot things that interest me so I can find them again. I especially like this method because on my phone and my computer, screenshots save to a specific place so I don't need to endless scroll files/photos to find them. I must not have taken a screenshot this time. Wah. 

At any rate, I liked this top initially but not the tunic length. I'm just not a huge fan of tunics! Burda lists the finished back length as 30" so I thought adding 6" would be appropriate.  I marked 6" from the edge of the back along the (curved) hemline and then added 3/8" seam allowance because I knew I'd be doing a narrow rolled hem. 

On the front, I added 3/8" to the front hem and cut a rectangle of fabric out that was 1.5x the width of the front (I wanted a really soft gather) plus 5/8" seam allowance on each end. I added 3/8" seam allowance to the top and 3/8" seam allowance on bottom. 

I used my serger to gather the fabric after practicing on a scrap. More on this later! I actually learned this technique and used it to make a Ogden hack. I recorded a video and will share later! It is on my IG grid if you're interested and can't wait :)

I cut a size 40 neckline, 42 through the armhole and for the front, and a 44 back. I ended up taking the back side seams back down to a 42. 

I did a 5/8" foward shoulder adjustment which may have been a hair too much. I have folds which I think are ALSO due to just having more sloped shoulders than Burda drafts for. In a casual dress like this, I'm not bothered by it. The neckline and upper back feel AMAZING though! So glad I had the lightbulb moment over forward shoulders!!

Look at that upper back fit!! :-D

I was deliberate with my stripe choices but didn't worry (at all!) about trying to do anything at the side seams. The back has the prominent red stripe down the center and you can see the horizontal plane of the stripes match. I chose a piece for the yoke with no narrow stripes and cut the collar to feature the narrow stripes.  I used a solid navy poplin on the inner yoke and collarband facing.
the back crossover makes a giant pleat on the inside!

The fabric is a cotton voile so it is as light as feather! <3  I bought this in October 2017 from Fabric Mart and knew I was saving it for something bold. Well, this dress fits!! 

Everyone is entitled to dress in a way that makes them comfortable. But please, don't put your requirements on me! I got a lot(!) of inbox comments on IG about this being (dirtyword) flattering. I just don't dress to de-emphasize my body. I always say...I am 5'5" and weigh 190lbs. I ain't gonna "look skinny" so I ain't gonna try to "look skinny"! It's loose and voluminous and comfortable and cute and I adore it. So that's that!

I briefly considered a ruffle to the armhole but then decided to stick with my original plan and keep it sleeveless. I think this will keep it more versatile and allow me to wear it through early fall with a jacket. I fit the armhole pretty closely but I'll have to see if I can layer a close-fitting tee underneath. 

It was cute and I thought it balanced the lower ruffle well.

Making bias binding from lightweight cotton is such a joyous experience! It came out beautifully!! Also worth nothing that I only added 3/8" seam allowance to the armhole in expectation of using binding. So much easier to apply with a smaller seam allowance. 

Lastly, I used these large-ish buttons I had in stash. I wanted everything about it to be standout!

EVERY moment of sewing this dress was just SO fun. And I can't wait to wear it!