Currently, In-House Patterns is offering 20% off of all patterns through the end of the month. The discount will automatically be added to your cart at checkout.
I am a huge fan of InHouse. I own the entire catalog except for the Diana blouse! Alexandra is a professional pattern drafter and offers patterns in sizes 0-16 and cup sizes A-D.
Click HERE to shop patterns
Also, Sew House 7 is offering a 20% discount for all tops, including dresses with top options. The discount code is FAYE. This sale is through midnight on June 1st. Sew House 7 has an extensive size chart. The standard line is intended for a B/C cup and includes size 00 (bust size 31") to 20 (bust size 47"). The curve line has cup options for C/D, E/F and G/H depending on style. It includes sizes 18 (bust size 45.5") to 34 (bust size 61.5").
Click HERE to shop patterns
I have yet to sew a SH7 pattern but I do own a few! The Burnside Bibs WILL happen for me this summer!! :) And I am going to snag the super cute Underwood today!
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I have to say that April 2019 was probably my favorite issue for all of 2019. This dress is item number 5 for me from that issue!
I saw a dress somewhere that had a ruffle across the back only with a "normal" front with mixed prints. I could not find that image again. Often, when I'm browsing the internet I will screenshot things that interest me so I can find them again. I especially like this method because on my phone and my computer, screenshots save to a specific place so I don't need to endless scroll files/photos to find them. I must not have taken a screenshot this time. Wah.
At any rate, I liked this top initially but not the tunic length. I'm just not a huge fan of tunics! Burda lists the finished back length as 30" so I thought adding 6" would be appropriate. I marked 6" from the edge of the back along the (curved) hemline and then added 3/8" seam allowance because I knew I'd be doing a narrow rolled hem.
On the front, I added 3/8" to the front hem and cut a rectangle of fabric out that was 1.5x the width of the front (I wanted a really soft gather) plus 5/8" seam allowance on each end. I added 3/8" seam allowance to the top and 3/8" seam allowance on bottom.
I used my serger to gather the fabric after practicing on a scrap. More on this later! I actually learned this technique and used it to make a Ogden hack. I recorded a video and will share later! It is on my IG grid if you're interested and can't wait :)
I cut a size 40 neckline, 42 through the armhole and for the front, and a 44 back. I ended up taking the back side seams back down to a 42.
I did a 5/8" foward shoulder adjustment which may have been a hair too much. I have folds which I think are ALSO due to just having more sloped shoulders than Burda drafts for. In a casual dress like this, I'm not bothered by it. The neckline and upper back feel AMAZING though! So glad I had the lightbulb moment over forward shoulders!!
Look at that upper back fit!! :-D
I was deliberate with my stripe choices but didn't worry (at all!) about trying to do anything at the side seams. The back has the prominent red stripe down the center and you can see the horizontal plane of the stripes match. I chose a piece for the yoke with no narrow stripes and cut the collar to feature the narrow stripes. I used a solid navy poplin on the inner yoke and collarband facing.
the back crossover makes a giant pleat on the inside!
The fabric is a cotton voile so it is as light as feather! <3 I bought this in October 2017 from Fabric Mart and knew I was saving it for something bold. Well, this dress fits!!
Everyone is entitled to dress in a way that makes them comfortable. But please, don't put your requirements on me! I got a lot(!) of inbox comments on IG about this being (dirtyword) flattering. I just don't dress to de-emphasize my body. I always say...I am 5'5" and weigh 190lbs. I ain't gonna "look skinny" so I ain't gonna try to "look skinny"! It's loose and voluminous and comfortable and cute and I adore it. So that's that!
I briefly considered a ruffle to the armhole but then decided to stick with my original plan and keep it sleeveless. I think this will keep it more versatile and allow me to wear it through early fall with a jacket. I fit the armhole pretty closely but I'll have to see if I can layer a close-fitting tee underneath.
It was cute and I thought it balanced the lower ruffle well.
Making bias binding from lightweight cotton is such a joyous experience! It came out beautifully!! Also worth nothing that I only added 3/8" seam allowance to the armhole in expectation of using binding. So much easier to apply with a smaller seam allowance.
Lastly, I used these large-ish buttons I had in stash. I wanted everything about it to be standout!
EVERY moment of sewing this dress was just SO fun. And I can't wait to wear it!
20 comments:
This is SUCH a cool summer dress. I love everything about it especially the deliberate planning to make it just so for you.
I will be participating in Fayestopsthatpops. Already have my patterns picked out and is this cheating but some are precut!
BTW, the whole flap over the word flattering is confusing to me. Guess I have no bad connotations associated with the word so it doesn't bother me.
Really cute. I enjoy the front ruffle, and the big pleat from the yoke in the back. This print is up to that dramatic print and you used the fabric brilliantly.
I'm going in reverse order :-p
I had never given much thought to the word until I became a part of the sewing community. And my experience has been by and large, it's been used to indicate hiding bad parts and making yourself appear slimmer. My scientist nature means I (sometimes unintentionally!) turn many things into an experiment! And I watch and take mental note and watch and take mental note and meh. I've come to find the word leaves a bad taste in my mouth.
I don't think that's cheating and don't think that Linda Faye would consider it cheating! <3 It'll be sewn during the challenge and that's what counts!
THANK YOU! I love this dress and it gives me the cheesy-face smiles!!!!!
Thank you!!
Oh, that is adorable! I really love the back. I am going to have to pull out that April 2019 issue and check it out! Great dress!
I love, love your dress! The fabric is so cute and perfect this dress. I have some plaid fabric in lavender/purple and you have inspired me to try it in dress. I have been precutting some fabric for Tops that Pop. Will be ready to sew.
I love this dress and how you used fabric. What a wonderful job you did with picking the fabric for this dress. I love the back and you are so right about the fit. It looks great on you. This will be so nice for the hot summer. And thank you for always being yourself. Jean
I am so excited to join the challenge! I have a few tops in mind already...
I really like this dress on you, and especially LOVE the back!
All that I would mean if I used the word "flattering" is that it suits you!!!!!! Nothing to do with slimmer, taller etc ...... love the dress!
The comment "this looks flattering *on you*" (emphasis mine) always makes my eye twitch. I know it's said with good intentions (at least I hope), but something about it just sounds off. Like, it wouldn't look good on someone else? I don't know. My math mind might be reading too much into it as well!
Anyway. I like the dress and the plaid matching is top notch!
Thank you! That would be my use of the word too... I’ve just had too many negative experiences at this point.
that is such a cute dress, looks super comfy to wear when the weather is hot and it also has details that elevate the style. I was wondering if you put the ruffle in the back hem as it would get a bit wonky due to the pleat, but the front only is a clever touch.
also yes that 04/2019 issue was the best! although I did make the raglan sleeve top with the neck ruffle recently and it is not a winner - going straight in the bin :)
That dress is so darn perfect! And your grin tell it all. The comment that gets my hackles up is “it really looks comfortable.” Always enjoy your posts.
I love the details of this top, I really like the back details.
This dress is super cute on you!! You did a great job sewing it and it looks so fun!❤
Also, i'm super excited about In House extending their size range! I've learned a lot from her and I would like to make and wear her patterns.
Love this dress - it just looks so happy! The use of the fabric creates such a fantastic result.
To weigh in on the "flattering" commentary - it's interesting because I feel like I used to use that word a lot, especially when I was trying to compliment the construction/fit of garment, but in reading social media and other blogs I've come to realize that some people find it insulting or off-putting (for the reasons stated in the above commentary), and I'm finding myself actively trying to avoid using that word now (though I'm sure it does slip out in some late night blog writing sessions now and again). I think it might be a case of a word being "of it's time" in a way. I think language is constantly evolving, and things that were once considered positive can change to have a different connotation as people point out how these words can be perceived.
Anyway, in my effort to be more specific in my word choices - the fit on the upper back is fantastic! It's so great when you figure out those pattern adjustments that really work for you. It always feels like such a win!
It’s interesting how words change over the years. As a child when I had been cheeky, my grandmother often took me down a peg with “Don’t get cute with me young lady!”, I don’t ever remember it being used to describe a look/garment.
I get where you are coming from with “flattering” - it can come over as being rather snide as in “what can she expect to look like - she has done the best she can with her figure”.
Anyway, I love following your honest, amusing and informative blog and think you make some super cute garments.
That's adorable and the back was a surprise to me.
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