Friday, March 12, 2021

Burda 1/2019 #116

I have several Ogden camis and it's such a great pattern but I knew that I wanted something different for this piece of Atelier Brunette viscose challis (colorway is Moonstone). I poked around the pattern collection and the internet quite a bit but, Burda to the rescue (as per usual)! 

I just could not get the color to pick up correctly taking the pics solo with my phone!!

This is a petite pattern but I only needed to adjust the waist because I'm a bit short from shoulder to bust anyway. I used a 40 for the neckline and a 42 for the rest. I'm not wearing a bra here (yay! reduction!!) but I did try it on with a bra. The back was fine (we all know that the band should sit below the shoulder blades, right?) but the front sits low, I'm not sure what the "right" bra would be for this style top.
I ended up shortening the straps about 1.25", topstitching them in back and hand sewing them in front. 

I'm not a purist y'all. I will sew french seams when french seams need to be sewn...I just don't care that much. LOL!!! So serger seams it is. I used a mix of dark grey and blue since I didn’t have a match. 

The pattern is cut on the bias but includes half pattern pieces. Be a good sewer and make full pattern pieces :-p I'm not so I cut one half, mark the center line at top and bottom, flip the pattern piece and cut the other side. 

You can see in the pic above that the bodice lining has a dart...and in the pic below that the main piece has pleats. The bodice and lining are sewn together at the neckline and armhole and then attached as one to the lower bodice. The side seams are sewn, then the back facing folded over. I tacked it down at the side seams by hand. 

I didn't do a *great* job matching the font at the center. If I make it again I'll baste by hand and sew both sides in one pass. Also, I accidentally pressed the pleats the wrong way and they just did not want to go back. WAHHH! We'll see how it goes the first time I wash it.

The upper part here is the back facing and I did a rolled hem on that piece. On the hem, I tried the Banroll method where you use the little comb and stitch and turn and stitch and meh. It's a little more stable than the rolled hem on this delicate fabric but it's cumbersome and I don't know the situation in which I'd say it's preferred. YMMV. 

I'm working on seaming up my sweater...may take me a bit. but it's coming!! 


  1. This top is so pretty, but, sans reduction, I absolutely can't wear it without a bra. I've thought about making nightgown version (#115) though.

  2. Just don't wear a bra ;) . Love this top, great fabric too!

  3. I would get one of those bras were the straps a clear & you can't see them..or on you tube they advertise those stick ons that hold our girls up & no bra...I like the top it's very feminine looks nice w those pants

  4. You are ready for spring, this piece is so versatile! I wish there were more classic layering pieces that don’t have to be traced đŸ˜©! Laquana

  5. Very pretty top and you used a lot of "tricks" to get it your way. That's what its all about. I agree with you on two points. I think French seams are way overused. I have seen them used on wools and corduroys and then the maker wondering why the garment is so clunky at the seams. They really are for lighter fabrics which I do think yours qualifies for but the serging is absolutely fine, IMO. The Banroll method---also way too clunky for me. If you are looking for a quicker, leaner method try the Kenneth King hem method. It comes right up in google or Pinterest or on my blog tutorials. It's very easy and quick. Your stitching beautiful and I'd say you knocked this one out of the park!

  6. I think your top is so cute! I especially like the construction of the front.

  7. Great cami! The fabric is really pretty and the front seaming and pleats really make it special. It looks so nice on you!


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