At the beginning of March, we got dumped with a huge pile of snow (like nearly a foot!). I'd been complaining about my black wool coat being too big. I'd ordered a couple different coats online and none of them fit well, plus, the fabrics were subpar.
On its maiden voyage to my office
I decided to use a pattern that I've made before (coincidentally, in March, but in 2015!) to make it easier on myself and to make it quickly (I did not make it quickly). As these things go, I started the coat on March 5 and finished it on April 20th.
2015 version in pink wool blend from Hancock Fabrics ( :tears: )
From my previous version:
- Size 16 (44.5" finished bust; I am around 39.5")
- Adjustments; sewed 1/2" seams on front princess and side seams
- 100% wool coating in magenta from Hancock Fabrics
- 100% polyester pongee lining fabric in baby pink from FabricMart
- Bound buttonholes tutorials by Iconic Patterns and Julia Bobbin.
- Bagging the lining tutorial by Grainline Studios
- (Need: small FBA, shift bust point down 1", lengthen sleeve 1/2", raise pockets 3/4-1", back facing)
This time;
- size 16
- I initially used smaller seam allowance and had to resew them all to 5/8"
- 100% wool coating from stash
- 100% rayon lining in champagne tan from Fabric Mart
- Regular buttonholes with buttons from Fabric Mart
- Bagged the lining using Cecelia Podolak's 'Easy Guide to Sewing Jackets' book
- I did not need an FBA, I did shift the bust point down 1", I did not lengthen the sleeve and should have, I did not raise the pockets and should have!, I did add a back facing. And, I lowered the back tab on this version.
In preparing to sew this jacket, I read my own review and a bunch of other reviews. SO many people complained about pattern errors and I was all, "I don't remember having any issues last time..."
Ha! Well, inexperienced sewer me probably didn't have any issues. This pattern has A LOT of errors. Notches that didn't line up, an error in drafting the straight collar (which I didn't catch until it was assembled), the lack of a back facing is insane, I think there were more. Grr.
By March 7th, I had the pockets inserted and princess seams sewn, realizing I should have moved the pockets up. I only had 7 of these buttons and there were supposed to be 5 on the front and 2 on the collar, so I decided I didn't have enough for the sleeve bands. With the collar error, I could have done the button bands. I think the sleeves look better with them!!!
By March 12th, I had the shell constructed and ruh-roh, this is too big. I took all the seams from 1/2" to 5/8". And, WHY is the back band so high?! I think it's a notch error.
March 22nd, I realize the collar is wrong. I'm super annoyed but not enough to recut the thing (do I even have enough fabric to do so?!).
I lazily drafted a facing and topstitched it down instead of doing it the "right way" because it's a raglan. It would have crossed part of the front sleeve, part of the back sleeve, and the back.
It must have bothered me more than I realized because it was April 17th before I returned to working on the jacket. But, it's ready for buttonholes!
The buttonholes needed are too big. Sigh. I can do it. I can do manual buttonholes. I watched a Threads video, mimicked the settings used, and, success!
April 20th, my finished coat, ready for wear (I am contemplating topstitching the collar). And oops, I moved that back band down a little bit TOO far :)
I think I wore it 3 times before the weather changed. Ah well, there's always next year!
