Friday, December 7, 2018

Simplicity 8529

I was first 'introduced' to the Sew House 7 Toaster Sweater during Sew Camp this spring. One of the ladies sewed it up and it was SO cute. As I've watched them pop up on blogs and IG, I've gone back and forth on the pattern.

When the Simplicity version (there ARE some differences) was released, I figured I'd give it a shot and decide if I wanted the original (I actually like the original more). The funnel neck is the same on both I think and that was the feature I was on the fence about.



 
 It's okay...

I sewed view A in a medium and shortened it 3 inches (I'm not a big tunic person). I love this fabric and was hoping for a wearable muslin. I have really fantastic cut of off-white ponte and had high hopes. I think I'll have to save that fabric for another pattern. 

The fabric is a hacci sweater knit picked up for cheap from Fabric mart a ways back. I have "the same" (idk now if it really is!) fabric in a different colorway and was concerned because that one felt polyester-y and icky. This one is fine. 

Construction was straight foward. The collar is sewn like a lot of cowl necks are which gives a nice, clean finish inside.

 

I like the dropped shoulder and I like the funnel neck and I like the roomy, "sweatshirt" feel and I like the side slits...but I just don't like this.

When I finished it, I tried it on and KEPT tugging at the neckline. I knew it was doomed -- I do not wear fussy clothes. I got compliments though so I went ahead and styled it:


And again, liked it in theory, but wearing it was a different matter. Also telling? I finished it on 11/24 and haven't worn it yet. Sigh...win some, lose some.

In other news, I am COMPLETELY GAGA over the Butterick release! Woohoo!

Some patterns, even if they aren't necessarily special...they come along and they are exactly what you've been looking for!

I have a large wardrobe (duh) of toppers and have been leaning more towards my blazers/jackets than cardigans. 

My $10 Marshalls find has gotten quite a bit of wear already!

I squealed, for real, when I saw this pattern. Must. Have. It. I love the cut, the collar, the details (princess seams + those shaping darts in front/back neck + forward shoulder seam + 2-piece sleeve + welt pockets!)...I love that it's a Lisette pattern (all of the tops, dresses and jackets that I've sewn of hers, I've really liked), and it has cup sizing. I am crossing my fingers for a Butterick sale before my holiday break.

There was seriously so much to like for me in this release but I've been tempering myself with the pattern purchases.


Tilton tunic - I know, I'm not that into tunics, but I love the seaming and shape of this!!
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Lifestyle wardrobe - I like the top and maxi dress...I like the mid-length version except for the curved shirttail hem...I don't really care for that hem style on dresses.
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Another Tilton tunic - yeah, yeah...but it's awesome. Maybe I"ll get one or the other. Maybe.
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This. Dress.! - I need this. I need view A and I need view B and I need view C! :)
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Top options - you will have to pry the peplum from my cold, lifeless self...I also like the little tie front on the main view. I like that it has a crew neck and faux wrap option. Plus multiple sleeve options!
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Connie Crawford tunic - Okay, I would shorten this quite a bit if I made it...but it is so interesting!! I've never sewn a CC pattern so I'd have to do some research on how the fit of her designs may differ.

That's going to break up my no-pattern-buying streak soooo I figured, what the heck. I've missed the last 4 Simplicity sales and snagged these 3 and this Style Arc (par-tayyyyy!). 



Hey, my last pattern purchase was in August. Not too bad! :)

In other news, I've replaced the KwikSew peplum in my plans with M7812. I just kept thinking of that pattern so I figured, why not!? It's all cut out and partially sewn.

I have Z.E.R.O. things that I'm doing Friday/Saturday. Okay, I may clean up a little on Friday...but otherwise I am going to Chill and Sew. And Chill!!


Sunday, December 2, 2018

November Wrap-Up & An Unintended Sewing Tool

Another month with ZERO fabric purchases! Woohoo! I haven't purchased any patterns either.  I sewed 9.5 yards (total out for the year is 157.25 though I'm still way off because of the NY/PA trip. I have 222 yards in this year. Darn it.

This month I sewed:
  • Vogue 1595 dress - 1 7/8 yards
    • grey and black chevron sweater knit
  • Butterick 6464 skirt - 3/4 yards
    • black Telio jockey ponte 
    • elastic
  • Vogue 8597 top - 2 yards
    • plum (puce?) lightweight sweater knit
  • McCall's 6796 top - 1 yard
    • light grey ribbed knit
  • Simplicity 8529 top - 1 5/8 yard
    • black/grey/white print hacci knit
  • Butterick 6378 top - 2 1/4 yards
    • blue poly(?) chiffon with painted(idk, it has some texture!) abstract print
Favorites: I have to say the Butterick skirt. I have wanted a black mini skirt for FOREVER. I made it pretty short too, 17", but it's so perfect with tights. And the Telio ponte is fantastic.

FAILS: Ehhh I'm not so sure about the S8529 top. I like the original Toaster sweater more but wasn't sure about the neckline on me and decided to try the cheaper option first. It's not bad but I don't love it.

Accomplishments: I chose this fabric (last December) and just loved the color and the print. Did I even think, for one second, that I was buying POLYESTER CHIFFON ?!?!? NO! I wanted to cry, roll my eyes, throw it in a corner, set it on fire at various points during construction. But I looooove this top. And of course, I feel like this took *forever* but based on my photo album I started it last Sunday or Monday. :)

Next up...Hanging around on IG, I'd seen references to the Zozosuit. It's a body measurement suit + app designed for a custom clothing company. But that's an awesome product for sewers too!! 

So, I know the name of it and I know that the suit was free and I paid $4 for shipping. And I have an iPhone. But that's it. Sorry but I can't really answer any deep questions about it. There's ton of info on various sites (YouTube, Reddit, etc)...check it out.

I ordered on 11/23 and received it on 12/1. I immediately set everything up even though my house was pretty dark. I used my tripod but it has instructions to use an included (cardboard) stand and a tabletop. And it is indeed meant to be at approximately waist height. I had to lower my tripod vs when I normally take pics.

The suit has tons of dots (there are dots within the white dots) and using what is actually pretty simple technology, it scans your body via the app - aka it takes photos of you directing you to turn clockwise and snaps a photo each time. It tells you to stand 6.5 feet from the camera and directed me to move forward or backward as necessary. It takes 12 images and in just a few seconds delivered the measurements. 




Here are my measurement results:


There's an option for "more info" and includes a couple extra measurements.


I found the bust and waist(both) measurements to be off for me about 1-1.5". Every other measurement that I normally track was spot on! Biceps, thighs, hips and neck. Someone asked if my dots were level and ahhhhh! I bet that's it! You'll notice that the measurement line is slanted for those that are off. I'll do it again another day when I have time (and appropriate lighting).

I am unsure what the "bust" measurement is on the chart. When measured with measuring tape, my high bust is just under 36" and my under bust is just over 33". I am leaning towards it being underbust and measuring slightly higher for the same reason the bust, waist and low waist is.

I'm not exactly sure what I did to cause such a discrepancy in my arm lengths! LOL!!! My right arm is bent compared to the left so that's something else to keep in mind.

Hey! That totally looks like my body! 
Tilted pelvis?


I'm excited to use this as a sewing aid. Especially since I'm still dropping weight slowly. I can just pop the suit on and get measurements quickly! Woohoo!!

I'm not doing a specific December plan. I am still(!) working on my original plan (B6378 wasn't on there officially but I've always known I would make another and the fabric called to me!). Also, I only have to work 14 days in November! :) After the 21st, I'm off until after New Year's Day. And I've always managed to get some serious sewing done!!








Sunday, November 25, 2018

Some New Tops!

The next few posts will be the same except for the garment! LOL! I had a marathon photo-taking session today. And Wilson the cat photobombed them all!

I am combining these as 1) I've made them before (though it was awhile ago and I'm not sure they were even blogged and 2) I have a serious backlog.

First up was Vogue 8597. I made this before in an ITY but t was a little too polyester-y. I tried wearing it a couple times but ultimately tossed it. When I pulled this fabric out (scored during my trip to Fabric Mart) I decided it wasn't right for the Simplicity "Toaster" sweater, but that it would be perfect for some drapey top pattern.

I had previously sewn this with a 14 neckline/shoulder and 16 for the rest. This time, I used a straight 14 with my cheater FBA and I sewed the raglans at 1/2".
You recognize that smug grin that says, "OMG I LOVE THIS!" :)
and: my butt looks super awesome!!!

I REALLY LIKE IT! I've worn this a couple times since I finished it. I love the fit, the color, the cowl/collar...I do not like my crappy hems. This fabric cut, sewed and serged so well...but hemming it was a chore. I tend not to get too bogged down with that sort of thing though because, while it really bothers me initially, I seriously NEVER notice it when I wear the garment.

The outtakes...1) because IDK what is happening with that stance/expression on the right! and 2) I am always holding my feet some way other than just flat on the floor. LOL! 
Every pic is something different.

Next up is a long-awaited version 2 of McCall's 6796. I believe this fabric came from my trip to Kokoon (a local fashion designer who opened up her fabric stash to us!). I was excited about the color and the ribbing but it wrinkles like crazy!!!  

I cut a size 14 with a 1/2" FBA (no dart). I really like the overall fit through the shoulder and bust. I will say, I was laying around today and had a "OMG I need to get pics taken!" (day 5 of my time off so yeah...waited until the last minute). And I have on my casual-around-the-house-bra. And then, while taking the pics I "found" my bras! Hahahaha!!!


They were on this drying rack that is sitting on the box that my (pretty) light fixture is in. I have had some issues with the management here and have only been here since the end of June. I didn't want to ask yet if I could swap out the light. Maybe next year :-p

When I finished it, I realized I needed to take it in a bit. It was very boxy and I didn't remember the first one fitting that way...but also that was 2013/2014 so...I took it in about 1/2" through the waist tapering to nothing at the underarm and hem (I had coverstitched the hem and wasn't going to take it out).
Originally I was going to make it sleeveless because the fabric is pretty translucent and I figured it'd be a layering piece. But the sleeves fit slim enough that it should still be okay.

I like it better tucked in and when I styled it, I really liked it! 

Lastly (whew!), *I* refashioned something!! :gasp:

I've made quite a few versions of M6612 and had this one in the donate pile. And then I saw someone with a burnt orange top and was like, I need a top that color!!! And there it was! Once I shortened it, I loved it again! The side seams flare out just a tad but I can live with that.

My feet! LOL!!!!!!

Still left to review:
Butterick 6464
Simplicity 8529
Another(!) reworked M6612 (just a tad)

WIP:
Butterick 6378

I'm thinking I'm going to move on to my two cream/off white items after I finish this Butterick blouse.  I have a very busy work schedule for the next few weeks so we'll see how it goes! 



Wednesday, November 21, 2018

Style Arc Mindi Skirt...Terrible Photos and All...

I don't know what the heck is going to happen this winter with pics. I'm thinking about buying one of those clip-on ring lights. We'll see. I have a few finished items that are unblogged. I'm off work until Monday so hopefully I can get all the photos done and get the posts up over time. Bleh!!

I have had this pattern since 2015. I planned to make it immediately but had a heck of a time assembling a different pattern PDF that I bought in the same order and had temporarily given up on Style Arc.  

But I had the zippers! And I have no clue what fabric I initially planned to use but I decided this black cotton twill would be perfect. 

I got this from Mood this year with a plan to make overalls. I later decided this skirt and a pair of slim pants (at some point) from the yardage.


I cut a size 14 after taking flat pattern measurements and sewed the back princess seams at 1/2". The waistband is one piece so I basted once the front and back were assembled but I hate having to do that because it's hard to know where the skirt is supposed to sit without the waistband attached! And the waistband is slightly too loose. Wah.


Like a lot of people, I was annoyed with their illustration of an exposed zipper. It is not an exposed zipper. The way they have you construct it, it's like a centered zip. 

Like a lot of people :), I combined the upper and lower pocket into one pattern piece and created a window to sew the zipper in. I much prefer this way.


I washed this fabric before sewing and I used the good interfacing...but I decided I wanted to wear it on Halloween (yes, it's been done that long - I've worn it a couple times!) and rushed to topstitch the waistband. And it got twisted a bit (I didn't switch to my walking foot because I did this in like, 10 minutes before work that day!!).



Oh. Em. Gee.
I usually use doubled thread for topstitching and have read where many use a triple stitch. I did that here. I will never do that again. LOL!!! With all the seams I got super bored and was whining the entire time.

I do plan to topstitch the zipper - just didn't get around to it!

I ordered zippers from ZipIt on Easy. I've used them several times when I've wanted more interesting zips (NAYY). I had everything cut out and ready to sew when I realized that zipper was quite a bit shorter. The pattern calls for a 19" zipper and mine was 18".  Which was fine because I preferred the shorter length.

At that point though, I had no choice but to shorten it at the hem - I think it's fine. WHEW.

I like it but am confused by the slight A-line. I thought it was a straight skirt but it flares just a bit. I don't dislike it, it was just a bit different from what I was expecting.

I made another black skirt which will be photographed and reviewed soon! Butterick 6464 in Telio Jockey <3 ponte.

I made a lightweight sweater from Vogue 8597 that I a.d.o.r.e.

And I just finished up a lightweight mock neck from McCall's 6796.

That makes me 5 items into my plan! (6 technically because I found a plaid blazer that I will sub for the one I considered sewing). Next up is the Simplicity version of the Toaster Sweater and then a pair of pants from Burda 10/2014.


THANK YOU everyone for your comments on the last post! As usual, I try to respond but things got busy. 

If you're celebrating - have a wonderful Thanksgiving holiday! If not, enjoy the time off :) 

Thursday, November 15, 2018

Finished: Vogue 1595

As per usual :) I was drawn to this Badgley Mischka RIGHT AWAY. I love the Dolman sleeve, slightly pegged skirt and wide neckline. 

 I snatched it up in a BMV sale and when I went to cut it out, realized I had the size 6-14 envelope.

Ruh-Roh.

I hemmed and hawed over grading it up or just buying another copy. I decided that I am almost 6 years into my sewing journey and DARN IT! I can learn to grade up a pattern!!!!

So I did a bunch of research and finally went for it. Now, my "normal" Big4 sizing is 14 neckline/shoulder with a 1" FBA which gives me the "size 16 waist" that I need and I usually cut an 18 for my hips. With skirts I've pretty consistently used a 16 front and 18 back. So I did an FBA, slightly graded the skirt a bit more (I gained room with the adjustment as I went right to the hem) and I graded up the back skirt and the waist on the upper back.

I was so proud! 

Once I got the front and back assembled I basted the side seams. I didn't like it. I was so disappointed. And then it dawned on me...it was too big. Seriously. Did it not occur to me that the fact that almost everything I pulled out of my storage bins is too big and therefore I need to adjust!?! It did not!!!! I'm not sure how much I removed because it was adjust, try on...adjust, try on....

Doh.

  
My hem is topstitched because this sweater knit hides it.  Speaking of...I got this from Fabric Mart right after the pattern was released and ordered black tricot to go with as lining.

I hate lining knit dresses. I mean, I like when they're lined but *I* don't like fussing around with tricot. If you were following along on IG (or read my last post), then you know that I sewed the sleeve to the waist of the skirt on the lining. SO annoying but I unpicked it and then...I did it again. But only on one side. I'm pretty sure I almost tossed this dress in the corner at that point.

The zipper is necessary because as you can see, it's pretty fitted. I tacked the lining at the shoulder seams because it kept rolling out and that did the trick. I don't know why I followed the instructions on attaching the lining at the cuff. They have you sew the cuff to the fashion fabric then hand sew the lining to the cuff. I totally would just serge the band to the dress/lining at the same time.

I DID hand sew the lining and dress together at the slit.
 
Because I am me, I bought just enough fabric. Did I think about pattern matching? nope. 

But I did okay without trying to match! (but, of course...because when you TRY, something funky happens! LOL!)

It's such a toasty dress and I'm excited to have it for winter even if it made me mad/sad a whole bunch of times.


It is that time again. Sigh. I will either have crappy indoor pictures or...sort of crappy indoor pictures. And this place somehow manages to get less light than the last place!