Monday, April 16, 2018

Burda 7136 v.5

I didn't realize I'd made this 5 times now!

v1 is no longer in my wardrobe. It was made from a tencel blend shirting, very nice fabric, but my flat-fell seams failed at one point.

v2 is decidedly "fall" colored but I still wear it. It's a wonderful flannel shirting in a plaid print.

v3 is the almost a fail chambray version that I now wear all.the.time.!

v4 was done in a green gingham seersucker. I did not care for the seersucker. I still have it but I never want to wear it, so it's in the donate pile.

I adore this one. ADORE!



When I made the first one I noted snug sleeves and made an adjustment. When I made the chambray one I almost wadded it because of the sleeves. Chopping them off to above elbow length and adding decorative tabs helped a ton. The sleeves on the gingham version were bad.

LIGHTBULB. The first version was made in 2014. This time I looked at my "sleeve adjustment".

what in the whole entire hell?!?

I don't know what I did or why I did what I did but it was WRONG. It was a super janky bicep adjustment and THAT'S why my sleeves were wonky! WHEW! I put the sleeve back together as best I could, traced off a new one and did a proper full bicep adjustment. Ahhhhh.

I also added 1" to this version. Adding length, I should have added a little more hip room (did we not JUST have this conversation!?!? Why do I forget that the junk needs more room?)

I wore it with the last button unbuttoned 

It's buttoned full here and you can see it's a bit snug on the hip. 
The left photo, and the pic below, shows off my horrible posture. Wahhhhh!


The fabric is a border print (haha! People kept commenting on "the two fabrics") from Fabric Mart. Spotted during sew camp before it was available to be sold. I ended up with 5 yards of it. What? (there's 8.5 yards left, NAYY shirting)

The border runs along the grain but after a discussion at sew camp I learned to do what you like but be consistent. So, I marked front and back accordingly and cut them on the cross-grain. The yoke and collar were cut on the cross grain as well. The sleeves, pockets and collar stand were cut on-grain. All of the pieces cut on the pink striped border were cut on the crossgrain.

I love these cuffs and the plackets. So much

The main buttons were too big for the placket IMO so I found a plain white button to use. I think it works out okay. The border wasn't wide enough for the entire cuff so I made sure it was on the interior of the cuff.




I set my pockets and looked at them questioningly and carried on. And then when I got the side seams sewn up, I realized how low they were. It is not fun to a) unpick pockets or b) sew them back on with closed side seams. Blergh. But I wanted them this time so I pushed forward!!

Everything is nicely lined up!
Pocket is cut on grain.
I did diagonal bar tacks on the pockets because why not?!


The only other departure from the pattern is button placement. I am a 34H. For serious. I never even bother to pay attention to where the pattern wants a button. I place button #1 at the fullest part and space them 2.5" apart on a fitted shirt, 3-3.5" on a less fitted shirt.  I decided to use smaller buttons on the placket and in hindsight wish I would have used the contrasting pink buttonholes there too!

Interior with burrito'd yoke, contrast interior stand and contrast buttonhole.

I mentioned on IG how quickly I got my buttonholes sewn.
1) we have established that I am a fast sewer (I do not rush, I just am that way!)
2) I have a dedicated sewing room which makes life so much easier. I marked the buttonholes Tuesday night.
3) I had about 30 minutes to kill before I had to leave home. In that time, I tested some buttonholes and (in 20 minutes) sewed all 13(!) for this shirt (7 front, 2 on each cuff, 1 on each placket).
4) my machine makes very nice buttonholes and are just a dream on cotton fabric like this shirting.

Lastly, people asked about my collar and asked for tutorials. I love my sewing peeps but I am not a teacher. I don't have "it". No one who knows me ever asks me to teach them anything...it leads to frustration for everyone! :-p

I will say that I can give some steps/tips as to what I* do (there are myriad ways to skin a cat...or sew a collar).

1) I rarely EVER staystitch but you better believe I ALWAYS staystitch necklines on collared shirts. This time I used my awesome new-to-me knit stay tape.
2) I never cut the collar pieces until I'm ready to sew them. I want to prevent the possibility of distortion as much as possible.
3) Once interfaced I trim the undercollar and interior collar stand by 1/8" where I want them to roll. I used to trim the entire thing but found I don't really need to. Around the curve on the collar stand and around the 3 "exposed" sides on the collar. This helps it roll.
4) I mark my pivot points on the collar and decrease stitch length as I approach to make it easier to stop exactly at that point. I also draw in the entire stitching line around the curve of the collarstand.
5) I PRESS(!) those collar seams open. Made SO much easier by my clapper from Carriage Corner.
6) I trim everything but not too much! I insert my thumb into the space and use my pointer to point the corners in and then wiggle until it's nice and pointy. I don't stick anything in there to push it or pull it. :)
7) topstitch the collar - The distance from the edge all depends on the look I'm going for
8) attach the collarstand to the collar. I do not press up 5/8" on the facing as instructed typically.
9) Once the collar assembly is sewn to the shirt, I trim that seam, press it up, and press the facing in place *just* over the stitching line. I secure it with Wonder Tape in a few places.
10) topstitch. DONE!

Clear as mud? :)

I searched for links but found none that encapsulated everything. But honestly, I almost never take a tutorial as-is. When I'm looking for techniques I usually find a few that look good (e.g. the finished product looks admirable, the instructions are clear, etc) and try them out. Eventually, I come up with some combination and tweak it over time. And that becomes "my" method.

When I went to Fray Check my buttonholes (which I always do before cutting them open), it was coming out very slowly. What did I do? I will tell you...I squeezed it. Of course I did!! So I ended up doing an impromptu load of laundry :-p It all came out. Yay! LOL!

"introspection"!

I'm so silly! :)

Up next, I may make a quick vacay outfit (McCall's 7757 - I bought the larger size, L/XL and the pants are HUGE. I think I'm going to use another pattern for the bottoms if I get to them) before starting the navy coat from Burda 8/2017.

And I got my quilt back!!! It's in the washer but I wanted to photograph it while there was sunlight.


I love this pattern <3

backing and binding (hand stitched this time)



Sunday, April 8, 2018

Butterick 6378 (and Burda 7/2017)

Really quick...this is the second version of Burda 7/2017 pants that I made at Sew Camp.  When I finished them they were extra snug. But we'd had pizza for dinner and I have a small appetite until we're talking pizza. Mmmmmmm! :)

No sizing changes from the original pair (made in Ankara print). Cosmetically, I left off the piping I included in the first pair. I really like this pattern! 

I have been having a hankering for pussybow blouses (sorry Carolyn! :-p) for a good long while. I have a ton of patterns in stash between paper and Burda and this one was in mind for awhile because of the simple lines.
When I scored this --uber cheap!! but nice feeling-- polyester peach skin from FabricMart during Sew Camp, I knew it would become a pussybow blouse. And I knew it would be used for this pattern because I'd want to limit the amount of fiddly bits with a shifty poly fabric.

I used my normal size 14 with the following adjustments:
1" FBA and left the dart (I intended on rotating it into the gathers at the shoulder and forgot)
3/4" full bicep adjustment
Shortened 1 1/4" at the hem and sewed a narrow hem. The pattern hem is 3/4".

The pattern has elastic in the sleeve hems. I have them sewn for elastic but hadn't added it yet when I realized "it's almost 2:00 and it's about to start snowing, I'd better get pics while I can!". So the sleeves WILL be as per the pattern. :)

Do you love my new bow flats?! I do!!! :)

 Pics with the skirt show the ties in a bow; with pants shows them tied in a loose knot and left to hang free. Skirt is my TNT B5760, pants are RTW (I fit *perfectly* into the LOFTs Julie Fit size 12)
 I just love the fit!!
Now, one mistake I make often, unfortunately, is using the size 14 and taking the time to make adjustments...but forgetting that my hips are an 18. 

The FBA gives me the bust and waist room that I need but I need more room through the hip. It gets hung up, as you can see here. I have already altered the pattern because I WILL be making this one again!


When I first put it on I have to arrange the facing. But once it's on, it stays put. 


The ties are integrated into the collar. I slip stitched the collar to the top by hand.


The gathers are nice and soft. Not too full and I wouldn't mind rotating my new dart into them. 
Once I realized I'd cut the pattern piece before rotating it, I figured the print would hide the dart just fine, which it does.

I love the print, I love how the color can read as taupe or blush and it looks good with some other non-black bottoms.

(this fabric is currently on sale for $3/yd! NAYY)
 
One thing that I don't like as much is how the collar sits on the neck. I've been folding it down but then once the tie is tied it wants to unfold at the back of the neck. Perhaps I can try folding it inward we'll see. I do want to make view A with long sleeves (pink on the pattern) and view C (yellow) without the elastic in the hem.

I got a lot of work done on my Burda 7136 shirt despite a VERY busy weekend! I need to do some topstitching, hem it and the sleeves. Which aren't even cut out :) I tend to cut pattern pieces as I need them with shirts (unless I'm worried about coming up short on fabric).


Until later!

Tuesday, April 3, 2018

March Wrap-Up and April Plans

Can you believe we're already done with 1/4 of this year?! Eesh.

This month I sewed 8 garments and used 17.75 yards. Only I would think to myself "gee, I thought that number would be higher with sew camp..." :)

I made:
  • Burda 7/2017 #115 shirt - 2.5 yards
    • black & white wide stripe cotton shirting
    • sew-in snaps
  • RTW rub-off top for my daughter - 2 yards
    • mustard poly crepe
    • teal arrow print shirting
  • Simplicity 8601 top - 2 yards
    • blue & white striped cotton poplin
    • button and elastic for loop
  • Burda 7/2017 #106 pants - 2.25 yards
    • tan suiting (this fabric was WIDE!)
    • zipper, hook & eye
  • McCall's 7687 top for my daughter - 2 yards
    • mustard & white striped cotton poplin
    • 20" mustard zipper
  • Ottobre 2/2018 dress - 3 yards
    • black IKAT print jersey
    • black tricot lining
  • Ottobre 2/2018 top - 1.5 yards
    • grey & white stripe cotton jersey
  • McCall's 7724 top - 2.5 yards WIP
    • medium blue cotton chambray
    • blue & white striped shirting
    • buttons
Favorite: It's a toss up between my black & white top and my daughter's top. I have to get pics of it on her but M7687 looks FANTASTIC on her. It's just gorgeous. And I am totally stealing that sleeve for a top!

Accomplishments: I'd have to say her RTW rub off. I took an oversized knit tee (she's tiny and likes large tees) and made it from a woven. I was so uncertain about it (Never mind I didn't really care for her fabric combo!) but when she got home one day, she had it on, but I didn't even recognize it! I thought it was a top she'd purchased initially!! So that was a proud moment.

Fails: So far, this M7724 top. I don't know what went wrong. I let it out as much as I can. But I am just so unsure about what went wrong.

For Operation 365. I did not get pics everyday, but then there were several days that I spent in lounge clothes. It's still winter here so I still wore pants a ton. And dressed in 3-pieces about 40% of the time :) Here are my favorite 5 looks from the month:

Left: top-all RTW, bottom-S8601 and RTW pants
Center: Burda 7136 top and RTW pants
Right: top-V9032 pants and RTW top and cardigan, bottom-Burda 7107 top, RTW tank and pants

Absolutely LOVE those LOFT striped pants with my chambray top. Love. Love. Love.

My April sewing plans aren't sew in stone. I made a BIG list of spring garments that I want -- it has 16 items on it. I know...I sewed 8 garments this month so 16 doesn't seem like a big list right?

But I'm traveling twice this month and have some other stuff going on...plus I have 2 outerwear pieces on that list and a blazer. All fairly involved projects. I did discover in sewing M7724 that my hand is much happier cutting single layer so that may be my reality for a little bit. (UPDATE: I GOT AN MRI TODAY AND SHOULD HAVE RESULTS SOON!)

I want to sew the trench from Burda 4/2018 (scrapped the traditional in favor of this funky jacket!) and the short coat from Burda 8/2017. I WANT the trench now but we still have multiple snow falls predicted and a trench coat is likely to be unworn until May. And I usually need some type of outerwear in the morning through June. So I'll make the coat first. Plus, my black coat is in purgatory. (my sewing fails always seem to come back to back)

And I want tie-front blouses! As much as I love Burda, I do get a little burned out on them sometimes. So with plans to sew several Burda items over the next couple months, I'm going to my envelope pattern stash on this one. I am looking at Simplicity 8216 (which I've sewn before), Butterick 6378 (view A or B) and Butterick 6488 (view C or D) which is new to me.



I may end up making both of the Butterick patterns. They are different enough that I think I could own both!

Sunday, April 1, 2018

Ottobre 2/2018 Two-fer

ignore my broken down boxes in the background 
(says the lady who has gotten way too many shipments lately!)


There were many patterns I liked from the 2/2018 Ottobre issue and I wanted to make this top immediately! As I looked closer, I thought I might make the dress too...and a few versions popped up on PR and I was sold. I traced the pattern off and took it with me to Sew Camp.

I've only made a few Ottobre patterns so far. I am a size bigger in Ottobre patterns than Burda; I use a 42 neckline and 44 through the body. I'd imagine for pants I'd need a 46 but I haven't sewn their pants yet. I also felt they ran a little long on me. However, this one was just right. Go figure.

I tissue fit the pattern and decided to add to the waist. I add 1/2" to the side seam on front and back by slashing and spreading. On the dress, the front and back skirt use the same pieces. I created a separate back piece and made a 1" full butt adjustment (via a wedge) and graded the back skirt out a little through the hip. I added 1" to the sleeve length.

I made the dress first. I had this Fabric Mart precut jersey in stash for awhile and wasn't overly thrilled with the look of it after washing so I figured it could be a wearable muslin.

The front has a cut-on facing and there's a shaped facing for the back. It's finished by top stitching.

I had to line the skirt and when I went to put it on, I needed to remove every bit that I added through the waist. I had to do so much unpicking. Wah. But I got it done and really like the fit afterward. I really prefer it belted and so that's the only way I took pics!

It was 13 degrees F this morning...spring is never coming

It is tiny roomy through the back but I didn't want to take it in too much.

Oh my gosh my coverstitch HATED this fabric. It just chewed it up and eventually I did not care one bit. I just wanted it finished.

I was going to take new pics of the top but I can't find it. lmao! I wore it the other day so...:shrug:

When cutting the top, I decided to leave the additional at the waist. The grey and white stripe is a cotton jersey...no lycra. Also because of that, the bias doesn't really stretch and it's a little snug through the bust. Grrrrr. I advise only cutting on the bias if you have 2-way (4-way? haha) stretch.

It's snug but not uncomfortable. I really like the length and the new sleeve length.

I will DEFINITELY make the dress again. Perhaps the top too...but I have a knit that would be fantastic as a dress from this pattern.

I am actually almost done with my coat; my hand has been killing me :/ I had cut out M7724 and started working on it. I was dubious when the first half was done but it's the off-shoulder side so I wasn't too sure about the fit, but thought it seemed small. So I didn't serge the side seams. I finished the other side, basted the CB seam and it's SO small.

back photo only because otherwise people will see more of me than they need to :-p

I am not sure what I did wrong. But I did a 1" FBA rotated into the existing pleat and it absolutely does not fit. It does not close...it does not meet...it's just way too small. I can easily get 1.5" ish from the seams but blehhhhhhh. It's in time out for now. 








Friday, March 30, 2018

Simplicity 8601

The cover photo sold me. It's such a cute top and in a stripe? Swoon. I also like the yellow version but wonder if the tie front and sleeves would be too much??

Anyway...on my little SR Harris excursion I picked up this blue striped shirting. I love the shade of blue and the stripe width. It wasn't until I was wearing it that I realized it is cotton poplin. I do not like poplin! I like the nice, smooth feel of it but don't enjoy wearing it.

The pattern is relatively straightforward; front and back, plus sleeves and facings. I used a size 14 and did a pivot and slide FBA. That is a strange adjustment for me...I prefer the traditional method. But sometimes, you just don't want a bust dart.

The neckline is HIGH on me. It looks really relaxed on the model; but I lowered mine 1/4" which was clearly not enough. After measuring and tissue fitting, I didn't need to add to the sleeve. You know what I always forget? Just because it'll FIT doesn't mean I don't need to add to it. So it isn't tight at all, it fits, but it's not as intended compared to the pattern. I should have still done my 1" bicep adjustment.

The front seam is sewn to a certain point and then narrow hemmed. Note how short the ties are on the model. The circle? It's at the waist! THE WAIST!!

Because I am silly, I took a bunch of pics and made a compilation of my "OH MY GOSH THEY WANTED THIS SPLIT UP TO MY WAIST!" My finger is where the original marking was on the pattern.

hahahahaha! 

I stitched it another 2.5". You can't go too far or you won't have much to tie. Also, I feel like the front isn't near as long compared to the sides as the drawing or pic indicates. 


I did a swayback adjustment but when you tie it, you pull it to the front and I think it looks a little messy. Maybe in a fabric that has more drape? Like the challis or georgette recommended :-p

Also, see what I mean about the sleeve?


I wore it to work yesterday and really liked this outfit.  I like the top but probably won't make this pattern again.