Thursday, October 5, 2017

Burda Challenge: 9/2017 #117

Thank you EVERYONE for the kind comments on my PR Bee entry!!! Sometimes I can stay on top of comments and sometimes I can't. But know they were read and appreciated!!

Swoon. This silk is really amazing.

For some reason, it had completely escaped me that this was such a roomy blouse. I was pinning my yokes to the back before I realized there was an inverted pleat in back. For that reason -- the roominess -- I don't love it. The sleeve cuff? OH MY WORD! The overall fit? ehhh.

lightbulb moment!!! I was doing something else and remembered I used 3/8" seam allowance (to conserve fabric) but used 5/8" at the side seams! I like it better now that I've corrected that! 

I don't normally tuck my blouses but at least the silk is lightweight enough and has enough drape that I can without it being bulky. I just don't really do oversized or boxy clothing. Viewed front-on, it's easy for me to look like a block so I am ALWAYS preferring to emphasize curves. Always, always, always!!! :)

I did not have enough fabric for the ruffle OR to cut my ties on the bias. And they look crappy cut on the (straight?cross? I don't remember.) grain. I also made a mistake on the front. The bottom of the cut should've just been a point so I don't want to remove the tie.

At least the facing is neat! :)
I *LOVE* the faceted buttons
Confession: I ironed the front before photos but not the back. Oops.

I also missed that the sleeves are SUPER long on the model. Crud. Burda is pretty true-to-form with the representation on the model. If it's bodycon, watch out! If it's low-cut...ooooh baby! LOL!! But I missed how it was shown on the model.

Yeah, those sleeves are LONG and the blouse has lots of room.

Say hello to my mega-biceps!
And my extra long sleeves


I also messed up (yeah, yeah, I know) and cut a straight 42. I don't know what I was thinking. I ALWAYS use a 40 for the neckline and shoulders.  I had a heck of a time getting the sleeves in so I'm not too keen on opening them back up to shave off some of the length in the shoulder.

So aside from all the mistakes, sewing it wasn't that bad. As mentioned, I had just enough fabric and therefore used 3/8" seam allowances to conserve fabric. So no french seams which, I'll do them sometimes, if I think serger stitching will show through or will be too bulky. But I don't get the warm fuzzies over them like a lot of people. A 3-thread serger stitch worked great with this fabric.

The silk feels amazing against my skin and I won't be afraid to do more complex projects with it in the future. Sure, finishing those sleeves (continuous lap, band, cuff) was more time consuming but it wasn't difficult.

I'd bought interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply specifically for this project and still ended up using the Fabric Mart stuff because I liked it better on a swatch. I'm glad I got 4 yards of it and wish I'd gone the full 10!

I had the flat button in stash, saw the pearl shank button first and then saw the metallic faceted buttons at JA, worried they'd be too big, and decided I didn't care. They had to go on this blouse!

Ooh! I also walked right up and chose the right color thread! :-D I'm always very proud when I can do that!

So, because of the billowy fit of the top, it doesn't work under that McCall's cardigan/jacket. But that's okay. A long sleeved silk blouse should be plenty warm. I can always pair it with a camisole if needed for a tiny bit extra warmth. I'd previously tried it on with the charcoal skirt, really liked it, and then forgot to take pics of the outfit.



I take back my lukewarm reception and will upgrade it from an "it's okaaaay" to "I really like it!" :)

I'd like to make this pattern again with slightly shorter sleeves, narrower shoulders (eye-roll), a bicep adjustment (I measured, it was fine, but it needs more ease to fit the wearing ease of the rest of the pattern) and the front ruffle...maybe in a print. I will keep my eye out on a nice stable silk like this one!

OH! One other thing. I have always felt Burda's dart was a little off on me. This time I moved it 'back' a bit (about 3/4"). But I think the issue is the angle. I don't think the entire dart is too high (though maybe it can move down some) but I think the angle makes the uptake a weird fit to my bust--like my bust isn't as round all the way through, the weight sits more on the bottom, leaving empty space on top?? It's hard to explain but it makes sense in my head! I'll muslin my next Burda make with darts and play around with it.

Until later!!

14 comments:

  1. Love this blouse on you. It looks so cozy. The tucked in, bloused over looks great on you but it probably needs to be in silk or something very much like that to keep from looking boxy. You nailed the fabric to pattern thing!

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    1. Thank you Paula! I definitely agree that it only works for me with something like a slinky silk or challis!

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  2. The fabric looks luscious so buttery, silky, yummy & that shade of blue look gorgeous on you.
    Ever since your hand recovered you've been making up for lost time sewing & doing a marvelous job.
    Blessings
    Baa

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    1. Thank you Baa! OMG the fabric!!!!! :-D

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  3. Those colors look great on you. I purchased several yards of that high quality interfacing from FM too.

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    1. Thank you! That interfacing is fantastic!!

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  4. Your blouse looks great - and great on you. Kudos on a job well done!

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  5. Looks good from the pics--just the fact that you succeeded working with silk is inspiring for me. Sewists are the hardest on themselves, because we expect perfection. I understand the boob/bra thing--mine are bottom heavy too-lol.

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    1. Thanks Robin!! It was a nice stretch because now I'm less likely to pine for the silks and buy some! :)

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  6. You did a good job making a silky blouse that looks just right for you! :)

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