Sunday, October 22, 2017

Vogue 1522 and Simplicity 1366

Fabric two-fer!

I first saw V1522 made up on Erica Bunker's blog, and then saw a couple more versions pop up. I was intrigued by the fit and that cute sleeve detail.

I bought this poly georgette because I was enamored with the print; even though I tend to avoid shifty polyester fabrics. I've had my fill of frustration with them. However, this fabric wasn't too tough to work with once you got it laid out on grain.

I had the larger size range in stash (I'm sure because I was interested in the pant too). Based on the grading between L, XL, XXL, I graded the neckline and shoulder down to a medium and did a full bicep adjustment. Beyond that, the only other adjustment I made was to shorten the top 3/4" once it was constructed. I could really see making this one again and if I did, I'd shorten the sleeve an inch. They are WAY longer than on the model!

Sorry, my camera lens was a little dirty!
I love it so much!

pants are V1411


The top went together quite for all the times I had to unpick stuff. My own mistakes, not the pattern's fault, at all. I'd sewn the bias strip to the first sleeve 'upside down'. I was NOT careful sewing the bias tape to my neckline and had to rip the whole thing out. I made some other weird, random mistakes too. Sigh.

Also, the pattern has you set the sleeve flat. I did, but on the left sleeve I sewed gathering stitches first and eased it. Now it fits weird compared to the right one. Sigh.

I'd done some sample serging and got my differential and tension all right ( I was not about to try to French seam this poly fabric...blergh). I sewed and serged seams then pressed to one side (vs pressing the seam open - that wasn't working). It took a press on the wool setting with steam and my block-of-wood-functioning-as-a-clapper. It is finished with a narrow hem (closer to 3/8" on each turn than 1/4" because of the spongy nature of the fabric). The sleeve flounce is finished with a rolled hem by machine.

It's so pretty!!!!

Bias strip + rolled hem

French binding on the neckline

This was the first time in a LONG time that I was focused on finishing a garment to wear the next day. I really, really like this one and excitedly put it on Monday morning. I have a bathroom selfie to prove it! Hahaha!

As I was considering fabrics for S1366, I thought...hmmm, I have a big enough chunk of this georgette left over...why not?! Because, b&w print! This pattern uses one piece for front and back-cut on the bias, has a pattern piece for the roleau straps, and a facing. I opted out of the facing and cut a 16 with 14 neckline/armholes. I decided to finish the top with binding and narrow hem. Because the print is good and busy, I bartacked the straps in place front and back.

I was of course, dubious about the same piece being used for front and back. Now that I've worn it, I DEFINITELY need to create separate pattern pieces. I will do an FBA on the front piece and need to figure out a swayback adjustment on the back. I don't want a CB seam though. Wondering if I can do a 'T' shaped slash (side seam to side seam and waist to hem) and overlap at CB?? We shall see. I may give the facings a try next time. I think I would be okay with binding if it were double fold...but I'd only make double fold bias tape in a natural fiber (too much drama otherwise!). I have to remake it though, for sure!!

I like the length as is...and the width on the back piece is okay...

Now, the front fits better with a regular bra. I put on my strapless but it is really meant to hike 'em up! LOL!! The front sits a bit smoother in a regular bra as well but it still needs some adjustments.

I like the overall fit, the length is just right, and I am a very happy camper! It will certainly make it again!